Today we drove from Italy, the province of South Tyrol to Weiler I’m Allgau in Germany passing through Austria.
Rob and I agree it was a postcard day, recent snow falls along with a crystal clear sky coupled with some of the prettiest mountains made for some stunning scenery. We both agreed it had been one of our nicest days driving yet.
Most of the photo’s are taken as we drove along but we still hope you enjoy these as much as we did.
Drive down the mountain from Villa Wohrerhof.
Vandoies
Campo di Trens
Brennero – Italy/Austrian border
Brennero outlet village – there’s a car under there!
MuttersFerrariwieseInnsbruck
Innsbruck
Zirl
Seefeld in Tirol
Seefeld in TirolGießenbachScharnitzMittenwaldMittenwald
Monday morning early we set out from Le Spezia for a long drive – 400 kilometres up to the South Tyrol region, our last stop in Italy. For the next four weeks we plan to tour Germany, up to the Netherlands and then down through France.
Rob had been checking the weather and had found it would be snowing in the Province of South Tyrol this week so we thought we would try to catch some real winters weather.
From La Spezia we head NE towards Parma and Mantova. Just outside Verona we leave the Autostrada so that we can drive up Lake Garda which runs for about 100 kilometres.
Lake Garda
Mountains tower each side of the lake which has wind whipped waves on this cold rainy day. At Gargnano on the opposite shore we see a village on a cliff top and a bit further on there is another under the cliff at Campione.
Campione
Assenza Mountains on our right
At the end of the lake at Nago- Torbole a gorgeous village then morphs into a rural vista of tightly packed fields of grapevines and fruit trees.
Back on the Autostrada we pass Castellano – which has a Castle high on the hill above the town.
Snow is predicted from 6pm. We exit the Autostrada at Bressanone and arrive at the village of Vintl Weitenal, grab a few supplies and head up the mountain to our destination, villa Wohrerhof. As we leave the village around 5pm, it starts snowing. Wow!
I feel like a child with the wonder of it. Our host Agnes meets us, speaking German and we quickly bring in our gear, then we are both out trying to catch the snow on our tongues, laughing and giggling.
On Tuesday we wake up to a smattering of snow that turns to sleet by about 10am. We go for a drive further up the valley to the village of Pfunder where it is -2 degrees and snowing. We visit the local church, go for a very slippery walk and then play in the snow for a bit before relaxing in the local bar with a warm drink.
Driving to Pfunder in the snow
Pfunder churchWow it’s slippery out here!
Back in Vintl it’s still wet and the snow has all but disappeared. We take a walk around Vandois, the village below our villa, it’s very cold and there is no one about except the Poste lady and very little traffic. Rob and I ponder that from now til April next year, people in snow areas mainly live inside.
Village of Vandoies
Gorgeous Autumn colours.
Later in the day it starts snowing again and this time it snows all through the night going down to -7 degrees.
10pm – snow on the car
On Wednesday we wake up to a Winter wonderland.
7:00am – 20cm snow
Snow everywhere! Its very quiet and very beautiful. We go for a walk around the villa and up the mountain road beside us a short way.
Pine trees in the snow
View from villa down to Weitental village
Across the morning it keeps snowing and by 10:30am the wheels on the car are half buried. It’s supposed to stop snowing soon and we are hoping for a walk later…
At about 11:30am Agnes is outside shoveling snow. I kindly offer Rob’s help as my right hand is still not up to hard manual work although it is healing well. After snapping some pics and dodging snow thrown my way I start work on a snowman.
Rob and Agnes clear snow around the cars for about an hour and Agnes explains a tractor will clear the drive later.
Good job Rob – that’s a lot of snow cleared.Clearing snow from around the carMy first ever snowman – Antonio!
It continues to snow for about another hour and stops around 1:00pm. We have had nearly 40cm of snow and Agnes tell us that this unusual for November but that it will be a clear tomorrow. Good to hear as we have to drive out then.
On the news today we hear that Venice has flooded and is under – 1.7metres of water and that other areas further down in Southern Italy have flooded also – so sad to hear. So challenging weather abounds.
Rob and I are also both very sad to hear about the devastating bush fires at home in Australia. Our thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected.
Zoom on village Vintl WeintalPano of the valley.
Robs walk – love this shot
Valley by moonlight – 2am looking right!
I’m in love with this place and enjoying the photography immensely. A full moon on the 12th presents an opportunity to good to miss so I get up and take some shots at 2am from our balcony. It’s -6 degrees and I had read about a meteor shower due about now but no sign of it, just the lovely moonlight.
Moonlit valley to the left.
The next morning the sun is shining and it looks like a bonus day for our drive through Austria into Germany.
Our host Gianna has recommended visits to Portovenere and Lerici so we are keen to explore both.
Porto Venere is a village on the Ligurian coast of northwestern Italy. It’s known for Porto Venere Regional Natural Park, a protected area with trails and dive sites. The park encompasses Palmaria Island, dotted with beaches and caves. The Gothic-style Church of St. Peter sits atop a rocky headland. Nearby is the centuries-old Castello Doria, an imposing clifftop fortress with views of the Gulf of Poets.
So named as this region was popular with poets, Shelley drowned at Lerici, Byron swam between Porto Venere and Lerici. Before them, other poets, Dante and Petrarch lover the gulf also.
Just one more step back Rob!
We walk around the harbour admiring the pretty town and the views across the bay to Lerici before heading up to explore St. Peters.
Window with a view!St Peters
The grotto
Apparently Lord (and poet) Byron was a keen swimmer and he swam from Porto Venere to Lerici often! We estimated this to be about 10km’s so a pretty sound effort!
After St. Peter’s we headed up the hill to view the church of San Lorenzo and Castello Doria.
Church San Lorenzo
Castello Doria
View from Castello Doria across to LericiThat’s snow on those mountains!The old millStorms comingWindow in Castello Doria towards Lerici
After another lovely day exploring we head home and later that night we get thunderstorms and lots of rain.
The next day as we are about to leave I spy this street art near our building. Could this be a Banksy style version of Klimt’s kiss perhaps?
Today we drive in the opposite direction from Portovenere to Lerici.
Lerici is a town and comune in the province of La Spezia in Liguria, part of the Italian Riviera. It is situated on the coast of the Gulf of La Spezia, 8 kilometres southeast of La Spezia. It is known as the place where the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley drowned.
Lerici across to Porto Venere – that’s some swim!Lerici
Lerici harbourLerici from the Castle
Grand villa on a hilltop.
After we leave Lerici Rob decided to drive to the end of the point. Ponta Bianca. The road quickly becomes very high, winding with lots of signs saying don’t go off the edge! The drop off is very steep and at times the only barrier is olive trees! Very hairy drive indeed!
Looking down on Lerici
Ameglia
Ponta Bianca
La Spezia is a great spot to visit. It has so many interesting places very close by including the Cinque Terre and Italian Riviera and is also ideal and not far from quite a few other places like Pisa and Florence. I loved this location.
View from our apartment.La Spezia at night
La Spezia at night
Tomorrow we head North to our last stop in Italy before touring on towards Germany, to the province of South Tryol. We think there may be snow too so it’s an exciting prospect!
October/November in Europe is typically rainy with temperatures reducing and shorter days so you need to be prepared for it.
Rob and I check the weather a lot and we have been reasonably lucky as we can pick and choose where we go and move away from bad weather to some degree. We have been dodging a bad weather front for two weeks now!
There are varying weather reports for today Friday 8/11, one indicates rain from 12pm the other indicates rain from the evening.
Unfortunately the Cinque Terre hiking path is closed! This area is a UNESCO listed national park and they close for maintenance in November so we have missed this hike due to the delay with my hand injury (sad face)! Our other options are to catch the train along the coast and visit each of the five towns or drive so we chose the train.
The train is mostly tunnels with glimpses of coastline usually before/after each station.
Monterosso
We travel to Monterosso the fifth town and furthest from La Spezia and arrive with a rain shower. Over the next hour we have sunshine and another shower.
The coastline is lovely, the beach sand is black.
Monterosso beach
There is a small market near the Chiesa but the town is otherwise quiet. I can well imagine what it would be like in summer but it’s nice to enjoy the town in the quieter season.
The church of S. Giovanni Battista
Levanto
Not part of the five towns but due to train schedules we travel further on to have a look at Levanto, a bigger beachside town popular with surfers. We stop for a break in a spot of sunshine and next thing you know I’m chatting to friends in Australia. Happy birthday’s to both Leigh and Gordon over the next two weeks!!!
Afterwards we keep exploring and spy another old Chiesa and enjoy exploring the town on the way back to the train.
Venazza
Next stop is Venazza the fourth town. It has a busy market place and there is a hole in the rock wall through which we can see the sea surging!
Further on is the seafront with rocks and a wall where many people are getting wet and even putting themselves at risk!
Notice I don’t get too close!
Then we climbed up to a castle that had amazing 360 views that clearly show the famous terraces that the area is listed for.
It is for this reason, this human intervention of the landscape, painstakingly carved out over the last century, that UNESCO have listed it as a World Heritage site.
There are stairs everywhere, up and down. Rob and I have walked about 12kms today so far. Three towns to go!
Stairs up, stairs down, stairs everywhere!
An old olive pressIt started 501 years ago!Can you see the terraces!
Corniglia
The station is about a kilometre from town number three so to save my legs we wait for the bus. We miss the first two as people push and shove forward and I’m too polite unfortunately. Our time here is short but Corniglia is small and a quick go round is enough.
Manarola from Corniglia
Manarola
Town number two and very special. The beautifully coloured houses are all clustered together atop the cliff, sandwiched between the turbulent grey skies and the throthing aqua marine sea. It feels like a storm is imminent but it holds off as we do a circuit along Via Birolli.
Via Birolli
ManarolaWalking towards the bell towerLooking up at the bell tower
Riomaggiore
Town number 1 and quite large, it sprawls from the coastline back up into the valley.
We walk a steep circuit up the hill passing L’oratorio di S. Maria Assunta o dei disciplinanti. This is the most charming little church, lit by chandeliers it holds two very old important statues of Mary, one in chains from the fourteenth century and one in wood of the virgin and child from the sixteenth century. It also has beautiful stained glass windows on the sides of the church.
After a quiet moment in the Chiesa we continue around and up the hill past the parish church of S. Giovanni Battista and towards the Fortress.
parish church of S. Giovanni BattistaLooking back up the valley.
Terraces all the way to the top!Rob larking near the FortressHigh point looking across the valleyDown near the sea wallPiazza Del Vignaiolo
The day fades and the lights start to come on and we agree it’s been a wonderful day on the Cinque Terre.
As we walk back along the tunnel to the train we admire the ceramics that decorate the tunnel then enjoy a silly race to the train. Tired out after 18+km’s, we look forward to the train journey back to La Spezia and some dinner.
We woke to a thunderstorm in Florence and a lot of rain.
After a slow start I took one more photo of our amazing view from villa “On Top of the World” and then we set off for Le Spezia, our next destination, which is near the more familiar Cinque Terre.
Beautiful Firenze
Rob had planned the route so that we could visit Pisa on the way and see “Le Torre de Pisa”
Only about an hour from Florence, we had lots of rain on the way and once we arrived and parked it was apparent from the swollen and fast flowing Arno River, that Pisa had received a lot of rain the last few days.
Arno River
Arno from the other side of the bridge
The famous Tower of Pisa!
Of course we had to do the corny photo too! Mine turned out best. 🙂
The Tower of Pisa is actually the bell tower of the Cathedral and along with the Duomo and the Camposata comprise the area that make up the field of miracles as it is so called.
Front view Cathedral
The Cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta.
Duomo
It really is an extraordinary sight, even for the beautiful Architecture but the tower has quite a lean to it.
Even more apparent when you get up close is how much it’s leaning! My next shot tries to show this but you may have to zoom in. On the left side of the pano shot there are one and a half blocks, on the right side, four and a half! Each block is about 50cm high so by my reckoning that’s 1.5 metres variation!
Walking back to the car we pass through Piazza Vittorio Emmanuel II which has a state of The first King of Italy, Vittorio Emmanuel, and another lovely arty sculpture.
Vittorio Emmanuel
Back in the car and heading to Le Spezia which is on the Coast we have storms chasing the mountains on our left all the way.
The next photo shows a mountain that is shaped like a caldera and as we got closer the sun broke through and a beautiful rainbow appeared.
We arrived Le Spezia around 5pm and after meeting our host Gianna and settling into our apartment for the next five days, the rain had cleared and we were able to have a walk through town. It’s a lovely place and we can’t wait to explore Le Spezia further and visit/hike Cinque Terre.
We arrived Firenze later than expected from Siena due to a breakdown on the motorway, it’s a long weekend in Italy, All Saints day Friday the 1st being a public holiday.
We were only a kilometre or so behind the accident which looked like two smaller cars had side swiped each other on a bend but who knows, the traffic quickly banked up and we were delayed about an hour. The days are shorter now too as they switched the clocks back an hour at the end of October so it’s dark around 5pm.
After settling in at Villa La Sosta we headed down the hill to Piazza Della Liberta for a “Florentine” at Perseus Ristorante as recommended by our host.
Viale Firenze
The restaurant was crazy busy, probably due to the long weekend and we had to wait a short while, even with arriving just after the restaurant opened at 7pm. But it was worth it!!!
Display at front of house.Relaxing after a busy day!
pop on
Wow! What a beauty!
Cooked to perfection!
Chianti and Salad
Rob and I share a “Florentine” for two; which at home would be a two inch thick T-bone, aged and then cooked and seasoned to perfection.
It was delicious to say the least and the whole experience was lots of fun, in a very busy and typically Italian restaurant.
We finished the meal with biscuits and wine and then headed home. The walk back up the hill in a fine misty rain was okay too.
Sunday was a free gallery day in Firenze and as we had planned to visit the Uffizi Galleria, we thought that this was good; at first, until we found you couldn’t reserve tickets on line for this day. You had to line up on the day!
Nevertheless we headed out for the day after a lively breakfast shared at the villa with other guests from Argentina and Italy.
This time we caught the bus down to Piazza San Marco and then walked to see the Duomo and Santa Maria Del Fiori. So beautiful, it’s hard to describe. Florence is known for it’s art and beauty and for its statues of course!
Duomo
Cathedral di Santa Maria del FioreGioto’s bell Tower
The square was busy as had been the streets since we left San Marco. The line at the Academy Galleria had been long as we passed by, snaking around the corner.
As we walked on to the Uffizi I wondered how long that line would be, the day was fine so far but rain was expected later so we thought we would walk on and up to Piazza Michelangelo before tackling the line at the Uffizi.
The lines for the Uffizi were both very long, one for tickets (door 3) and door one to get in so we decided to continue on.
A walk across Ponte Vecchio was a treat. The “river of gold” shops are well known and the jewellery extremely beautiful and very expensive.
Ponte VecchioBack towards Ponte alley Grazie
Once over the bridge we headed up towards Scala passing a house used by Galileo as an observatory and on to the gardens at San Niccolò.
Galileo stayed hereGalileo observed here
Gardens at San NiccolòMy hand needs all the help it can get but is healing well.Piazzale Michelangelo
The views across Florence are stunning and there is free parking for 1 hour if you drive up and a couple of cafe’s for a coffee if you walk up like we did.
A shower of rain swept across the city so we dove into a small cafe and had a quick espresso at the bar. We then caught a beautiful rainbow.
We head back down through San Niccolò taking a slightly different route this time over Ponte ale Grazie.
As we cross the bridge it starts to get windy and before long it’s raining in earnest, thunder, lightning, the whole shabang so we dive into the nearest bar and while away an hour watching a female soccer game while drinking a beer and sharing a burger.
It’s about 3pm by now and the lines to get into the Uffizi is as long as ever. We check in at the information desk and are disappointed to hear the allocation for tickets for the day has gone, even with the gallery open for another 4 hours.
One of the good things about travelling as Rob and I are is flexibility, so we decided to extend our stay in Florence for two days as the Uffizi us closed Monday’s, leaving Florence Wednesday rather than Monday. That decided, we spent the next hour enjoying the sights before grabbing some Chinese and heading back to our villa.
Piazza Della Signoria
Museo San Marco
I love carousels
Monday 4/11
Rob had found us an amazing apartment for the next two days so we spent Monday as a down day; visiting Fiesole, (original Roman settlement around 283BC) and perhaps Florences oldest and most wealthy city, and moving apartments.
View from our bedroom. Just stunning!Loo and what a view!
Tuesday 5/11
Sunrise over Firenze
Today we have tickets for Uffizi and Pitti Palace and it’s off to the Uffizi we go.
The building itself is 16th century and it houses vast collections of Renaissance art, Masterpieces and sculptures. A must see if you visit Firenze!
We both took way too many photos but here’s just a few that we both enjoyed seeing. I’m sure you will recognise a few.
The time got away from us at the Uffizi, we spent 5 hours and could have stayed longer we enjoyed it so much.
After a snack and a cup of tea we headed on to the Pitti Palace.
The Pitti palace dates back to the mid 15th century, was home to the de Medici family for over 100 years and it has several import museums as well as the Boboli gardens.
We visited the Palantine museum and it too was amazing, over 500 artworks including masterpieces and we were able to join a free private tour of the kitchens.
Again we took way to many pictures… the interiors and ceiling frescoes impressive enough and then there was the art. Here’s a few.
Me in the kitchen about to be scolded for touching!
One of the many ceiling frescoes
White room
An absolutely fabulous day! We pick up supplies for dinner and head back to our amazing apartment with its view to enjoy our last night in Florence.
We are of to Le Spezia (Cinque Terre) tomorrow via Pisa.
If you had a bet on the Melbourne cup today I hope you backed a winner and Happy Birthday to my nephew Kenny. xx
We arrived Firenze later than expected from Siena due to a breakdown on the motorway, it’s a long weekend in Italy, All Saints day Friday the 1st being a public holiday.
We were only a kilometre or so behind the accident which looked like two smaller cars had side swiped each other on a bend but who knows, the traffic quickly banked up and we were delayed about an hour. The days are shorter now too as they switched the clocks back an hour at the end of October so it’s dark around 5pm.
After settling in at Villa La Sosta we headed down the hill to Piazza Della Liberta for a “Florentine” at Perseus Ristorante as recommended by our host.
Viale Firenze
The restaurant was crazy busy, probably due to the long weekend and we had to wait a short while, even with arriving just after the restaurant opened at 7pm. But it was worth it!!!
Display at front of house.Relaxing after a busy day!
Wow! What a beauty!
Cooked to perfection!
Chianti and Salad
Rob and I share a “Florentine” for two; which at home would be a two inch thick T-bone, aged and then cooked and seasoned to perfection.
It was delicious to say the least and the whole experience was lots of fun, in a very busy and typically Italian restaurant.
We finished the meal with biscuits and wine and then headed home. The walk back up the hill in a fine misty rain was okay too.
Sunday was a free gallery day in Firenze and as we had planned to visit the Uffizi Galleria, we thought that this was good; at first, until we found you couldn’t reserve tickets on line for this day. You had to line up on the day!
Nevertheless we headed out for the day after a lively breakfast shared at the villa with other guests from Argentina and Italy.
This time we caught the bus down to Piazza San Marco and then walked to see the Duomo and Santa Maria Del Fiori. So beautiful, it’s hard to describe. Florence is known for it’s art and beauty and for its statues of course!
Duomo
Cathedral di Santa Maria del FioreGioto’s bell Tower
The square was busy as had been the streets since we left San Marco. The line at the Academy Galleria had been long as we passed by, snaking around the corner.
As we walked on to the Uffizi I wondered how long that line would be, the day was fine so far but rain was expected later so we thought we would walk on and up to Piazza Michelangelo before tackling the line at the Uffizi.
The lines for the Uffizi were both very long, one for tickets (door 3) and door one to get in so we decided to continue on.
A walk across Ponte Vecchio was a treat. The “river of gold” shops are well known and the jewellery extremely beautiful and very expensive.
Ponte VecchioBack towards Ponte alley Grazie
Once over the bridge we headed up towards Scala passing a house used by Galileo as an observatory and on to the gardens at San Niccolò.
Galileo stayed hereGalileo observed here
Gardens at San NiccolòMy hand needs all the help it can get but is healing well.Piazzale Michelangelo
The views across Florence are stunning and there is free parking for 1 hour if you drive up and a couple of cafe’s for a coffee if you walk up like we did.
A shower of rain swept across the city so we dove into a small cafe and had a quick espresso at the bar. We then caught a beautiful rainbow.
We head back down through San Niccolò taking a slightly different route this time over Ponte ale Grazie.
As we cross the bridge it starts to get windy and before long it’s raining in earnest, thunder, lightning, the whole shabang so we dive into the nearest bar and while away an hour watching a female soccer game while drinking a beer and sharing a burger.
It’s about 3pm by now and the lines to get into the Uffizi is as long as ever. We check in at the information desk and are disappointed to hear the allocation for tickets for the day has gone, even with the gallery open for another 4 hours.
One of the good things about travelling as Rob and I are is flexibility, so we decided to extend our stay in Florence for two days as the Uffizi us closed Monday’s, leaving Florence Wednesday rather than Monday. That decided, we spent the next hour enjoying the sights before grabbing some Chinese and heading back to our villa.
Piazza Della Signoria
Museo San Marco
I love carousels
Monday 4/11
Rob had found us an amazing apartment for the next two days so we spent Monday as a down day; visiting Fiesole, (original Roman settlement around 283BC) and perhaps Florences oldest and most wealthy city, and moving apartments.
View from our bedroom. Just stunning!Loo and what a view!
Tuesday 5/11
Sunrise over Firenze
Today we have tickets for Uffizi and Pitti Palace and it’s off to the Uffizi we go.
The building itself is 16th century and it houses vast collections of Renaissance art, Masterpieces and sculptures. A must see if you visit Firenze!
We both took way too many photos but here’s just a few that we both enjoyed seeing. I’m sure you will recognise a few.
The time got away from us at the Uffizi, we spent 5 hours and could have stayed longer we enjoyed it so much.
After a snack and a cup of tea we headed on to the Pitti Palace.
The Pitti palace dates back to the mid 15th century, was home to the de Medici family for over 100 years and it has several import museums as well as the Boboli gardens.
We visited the Palantine museum and it too was amazing, over 500 artworks including masterpieces and we were able to join a free private tour of the kitchens.
Again we took way to many pictures… the interiors and ceiling frescoes impressive enough and then there was the art. Here’s a few.
Me in the kitchen about to be scolded for touching!
One of the many ceiling frescoes
White room
An absolutely fabulous day! We pick up supplies for dinner and head back to our amazing apartment with its view to enjoy our last night in Florence.
We are of to Le Spezia (Cinque Terre) tomorrow via Pisa.
If you had a bet on the Melbourne cup today I hope you backed a winner and Happy Birthday to my nephew Kenny. xx
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