Italy – South Tyrol (Dolomites)

Mon 11/11 – Thur 14/11/19

Monday morning early we set out from Le Spezia for a long drive – 400 kilometres up to the South Tyrol region, our last stop in Italy. For the next four weeks we plan to tour Germany, up to the Netherlands and then down through France.

Rob had been checking the weather and had found it would be snowing in the Province of South Tyrol this week so we thought we would try to catch some real winters weather.

From La Spezia we head NE towards Parma and Mantova. Just outside Verona we leave the Autostrada so that we can drive up Lake Garda which runs for about 100 kilometres.

Lake Garda

Mountains tower each side of the lake which has wind whipped waves on this cold rainy day. At Gargnano on the opposite shore we see a village on a cliff top and a bit further on there is another under the cliff at Campione.

Campione

Assenza Mountains on our right

At the end of the lake at Nago- Torbole a gorgeous village then morphs into a rural vista of tightly packed fields of grapevines and fruit trees.

Back on the Autostrada we pass Castellano – which has a Castle high on the hill above the town.

Snow is predicted from 6pm. We exit the Autostrada at Bressanone and arrive at the village of Vintl Weitenal, grab a few supplies and head up the mountain to our destination, villa Wohrerhof. As we leave the village around 5pm, it starts snowing. Wow!

I feel like a child with the wonder of it. Our host Agnes meets us, speaking German and we quickly bring in our gear, then we are both out trying to catch the snow on our tongues, laughing and giggling.

On Tuesday we wake up to a smattering of snow that turns to sleet by about 10am. We go for a drive further up the valley to the village of Pfunder where it is -2 degrees and snowing. We visit the local church, go for a very slippery walk and then play in the snow for a bit before relaxing in the local bar with a warm drink.

Driving to Pfunder in the snow

Pfunder church
Wow it’s slippery out here!

Back in Vintl it’s still wet and the snow has all but disappeared. We take a walk around Vandois, the village below our villa, it’s very cold and there is no one about except the Poste lady and very little traffic. Rob and I ponder that from now til April next year, people in snow areas mainly live inside.

Village of Vandoies

Gorgeous Autumn colours.

Later in the day it starts snowing again and this time it snows all through the night going down to -7 degrees.

10pm – snow on the car

On Wednesday we wake up to a Winter wonderland.

7:00am – 20cm snow

Snow everywhere! Its very quiet and very beautiful. We go for a walk around the villa and up the mountain road beside us a short way.

Pine trees in the snow

View from villa down to Weitental village

Across the morning it keeps snowing and by 10:30am the wheels on the car are half buried. It’s supposed to stop snowing soon and we are hoping for a walk later…

At about 11:30am Agnes is outside shoveling snow. I kindly offer Rob’s help as my right hand is still not up to hard manual work although it is healing well. After snapping some pics and dodging snow thrown my way I start work on a snowman.

Rob and Agnes clear snow around the cars for about an hour and Agnes explains a tractor will clear the drive later.

Good job Rob – that’s a lot of snow cleared.
Clearing snow from around the car
My first ever snowman – Antonio!

It continues to snow for about another hour and stops around 1:00pm. We have had nearly 40cm of snow and Agnes tell us that this unusual for November but that it will be a clear tomorrow. Good to hear as we have to drive out then.

On the news today we hear that Venice has flooded and is under – 1.7metres of water and that other areas further down in Southern Italy have flooded also – so sad to hear. So challenging weather abounds.

Rob and I are also both very sad to hear about the devastating bush fires at home in Australia. Our thoughts and prayers go out to all those affected.

Zoom on village Vintl Weintal
Pano of the valley.

Robs walk – love this shot

Valley by moonlight – 2am looking right!

I’m in love with this place and enjoying the photography immensely. A full moon on the 12th presents an opportunity to good to miss so I get up and take some shots at 2am from our balcony. It’s -6 degrees and I had read about a meteor shower due about now but no sign of it, just the lovely moonlight.

Moonlit valley to the left.

The next morning the sun is shining and it looks like a bonus day for our drive through Austria into Germany.

Leaving Wohrerhof – sunny day!

Next stop Fischen Germany.

Italy – La Spezia, Porto Venere and Lerici

Saturday 9 Nov – Sunday 10 Nov 2019

Our host Gianna has recommended visits to Portovenere and Lerici so we are keen to explore both.

Porto Venere is a village on the Ligurian coast of northwestern Italy. It’s known for Porto Venere Regional Natural Park, a protected area with trails and dive sites. The park encompasses Palmaria Island, dotted with beaches and caves. The Gothic-style Church of St. Peter sits atop a rocky headland. Nearby is the centuries-old Castello Doria, an imposing clifftop fortress with views of the Gulf of Poets.

So named as this region was popular with poets, Shelley drowned at Lerici, Byron swam between Porto Venere and Lerici. Before them, other poets, Dante and Petrarch lover the gulf also.

Just one more step back Rob!

We walk around the harbour admiring the pretty town and the views across the bay to Lerici before heading up to explore St. Peters.

Window with a view!
St Peters

The grotto

Apparently Lord (and poet) Byron was a keen swimmer and he swam from Porto Venere to Lerici often! We estimated this to be about 10km’s so a pretty sound effort!

After St. Peter’s we headed up the hill to view the church of San Lorenzo and Castello Doria.

Church San Lorenzo

Castello Doria

View from Castello Doria across to Lerici
That’s snow on those mountains!
The old mill
Storms coming
Window in Castello Doria towards Lerici

After another lovely day exploring we head home and later that night we get thunderstorms and lots of rain.

The next day as we are about to leave I spy this street art near our building. Could this be a Banksy style version of Klimt’s kiss perhaps?

Today we drive in the opposite direction from Portovenere to Lerici.

Lerici is a town and comune in the province of La Spezia in Liguria, part of the Italian Riviera. It is situated on the coast of the Gulf of La Spezia, 8 kilometres southeast of La Spezia. It is known as the place where the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley drowned.

Lerici across to Porto Venere – that’s some swim!
Lerici

Lerici harbour
Lerici from the Castle

Grand villa on a hilltop.

After we leave Lerici Rob decided to drive to the end of the point. Ponta Bianca. The road quickly becomes very high, winding with lots of signs saying don’t go off the edge! The drop off is very steep and at times the only barrier is olive trees! Very hairy drive indeed!

Looking down on Lerici

Ameglia

Ponta Bianca

La Spezia is a great spot to visit. It has so many interesting places very close by including the Cinque Terre and Italian Riviera and is also ideal and not far from quite a few other places like Pisa and Florence. I loved this location.

View from our apartment.
La Spezia at night

La Spezia at night

Tomorrow we head North to our last stop in Italy before touring on towards Germany, to the province of South Tryol. We think there may be snow too so it’s an exciting prospect!

Italy – La Spezia and Cinque Terre

Thur 7/11 – Mon 11/11/19

October/November in Europe is typically rainy with temperatures reducing and shorter days so you need to be prepared for it.

Rob and I check the weather a lot and we have been reasonably lucky as we can pick and choose where we go and move away from bad weather to some degree. We have been dodging a bad weather front for two weeks now!

There are varying weather reports for today Friday 8/11, one indicates rain from 12pm the other indicates rain from the evening.

Unfortunately the Cinque Terre hiking path is closed! This area is a UNESCO listed national park and they close for maintenance in November so we have missed this hike due to the delay with my hand injury (sad face)! Our other options are to catch the train along the coast and visit each of the five towns or drive so we chose the train.

The train is mostly tunnels with glimpses of coastline usually before/after each station.

Monterosso

We travel to Monterosso the fifth town and furthest from La Spezia and arrive with a rain shower. Over the next hour we have sunshine and another shower.

The coastline is lovely, the beach sand is black.

Monterosso beach

There is a small market near the Chiesa but the town is otherwise quiet. I can well imagine what it would be like in summer but it’s nice to enjoy the town in the quieter season.

The church of S. Giovanni Battista

Levanto

Not part of the five towns but due to train schedules we travel further on to have a look at Levanto, a bigger beachside town popular with surfers. We stop for a break in a spot of sunshine and next thing you know I’m chatting to friends in Australia. Happy birthday’s to both Leigh and Gordon over the next two weeks!!!

Afterwards we keep exploring and spy another old Chiesa and enjoy exploring the town on the way back to the train.

Venazza

Next stop is Venazza the fourth town. It has a busy market place and there is a hole in the rock wall through which we can see the sea surging!

Further on is the seafront with rocks and a wall where many people are getting wet and even putting themselves at risk!

Notice I don’t get too close!

Then we climbed up to a castle that had amazing 360 views that clearly show the famous terraces that the area is listed for.

It is for this reason, this human intervention of the landscape, painstakingly carved out over the last century, that UNESCO have listed it as a World Heritage site.

There are stairs everywhere, up and down. Rob and I have walked about 12kms today so far. Three towns to go!

Stairs up, stairs down, stairs everywhere!

An old olive press
It started 501 years ago!
Can you see the terraces!

Corniglia

The station is about a kilometre from town number three so to save my legs we wait for the bus. We miss the first two as people push and shove forward and I’m too polite unfortunately. Our time here is short but Corniglia is small and a quick go round is enough.

Manarola from Corniglia

Manarola

Town number two and very special. The beautifully coloured houses are all clustered together atop the cliff, sandwiched between the turbulent grey skies and the throthing aqua marine sea. It feels like a storm is imminent but it holds off as we do a circuit along Via Birolli.

Via Birolli

Manarola
Walking towards the bell tower
Looking up at the bell tower

Riomaggiore

Town number 1 and quite large, it sprawls from the coastline back up into the valley.

We walk a steep circuit up the hill passing L’oratorio di S. Maria Assunta o dei disciplinanti. This is the most charming little church, lit by chandeliers it holds two very old important statues of Mary, one in chains from the fourteenth century and one in wood of the virgin and child from the sixteenth century. It also has beautiful stained glass windows on the sides of the church.

After a quiet moment in the Chiesa we continue around and up the hill past the parish church of S. Giovanni Battista and towards the Fortress.

parish church of S. Giovanni Battista
Looking back up the valley.

Terraces all the way to the top!
Rob larking near the Fortress
High point looking across the valley
Down near the sea wall
Piazza Del Vignaiolo

The day fades and the lights start to come on and we agree it’s been a wonderful day on the Cinque Terre.

As we walk back along the tunnel to the train we admire the ceramics that decorate the tunnel then enjoy a silly race to the train. Tired out after 18+km’s, we look forward to the train journey back to La Spezia and some dinner.

Race you back?