Aussie Lap – Gascoyne WA

Location: Cervantes, Pinnacles, Geraldton.

Region: Gascoyne WA.

Dates: Monday 11 – Wednesday 13 September 2023.

Temperature: 11-25 Sunny, overcast, very windy Wednesday.

Monday 11th September

Perth to Cervantes, Turquoise Coast.

Rob and I were looking forward to heading North, planning this part of our trip up the Coast as far as Monkey Mia, with some side trips covering the next three weeks. The weather has started to warm after what felt like a cold winter and we want to see some of the North Coast before it gets too hot.

Driving Nth from Perth we head through an area of eucalyptus and then the landscape flattens and becomes more coastal.

We decide to stop at Nilgens lookout. Walking to Nilgens lookout and a brown snake skitters across the path about 6M in front of us! No photo.

😬😳😱 first one of the season.

We arrive and make camp at Cervantes Tourist park which is right on the coast. After setup we take a walk along the foreshore noting a strong sulphur smell which we attribute to the piles of seaweed along the shore but on closer inspection find bubbling holes in the white sand and under the shallow water of the foreshore so maybe there are natural springs beneath this area of the coast?

After a quick dip we head out to check out the Stromatolites at nearby Thetis Lake.

Stromatolites look like rocks but they are one of the oldest living organisms and importantly contributed oxygen to the atmosphere on earth and are only found in a few places. Some of the oldest (3.5 billion years) are on WA’s coastline.

Stromatolites are formed through the activity of primitive unicellular organisms: cyanobacteria (blue-green algae) and other algae. These grow through sediment and sand, binding the sedimentary particles together, resulting in successive layers which, over a long period of time, harden to form rock.

After walking the trail around lake Thetis we head back into town in time to watch the sunset over the water.

Tuesday 12 September

On Tuesday we head out early to go see the Pinnacles in a Nambung National Park which is about 25km South of Cervantes.

The Pinnacles are amazing natural limestone structures, formed approximately 25,000 to 30,000 years ago after the sea receded and left deposits of sea shells. Over time, coastal winds removed the surrounding sand, leaving the pillars exposed to the elements. The Pinnacles range in height and dimension – some stand as high as 4.0m and the area where they are found is truly amazing!

You can drive the Pinnacles, recommended, as there is a lot to see and the park also has several walking trails crisscrossing the park.

After the Pinnacles we head for Hangover Bay and take a walk along the beach. We spy a group of seabirds in the distance and head that way.

We usually carry a bag on these walks as we collect rubbish off of every beach we visit. A habit we started years ago. Today we find a lot of rope, some too heavy to fully remove so Rob hauls it up off the beach as high as he can. Another long bit makes it back to the car for disposal. Rob also finds me a “sea flower”, he’s so sweet.

I snap a good picture of a pair of seabirds and with the help of a fellow named Jim from Bundaberg, Qld who is birdwatching, I am able to identify them. We had run into Jim and his partner at the Pinnacles too and he identified the honeyeater. Thanks Jim!

We head back to Cervantes for a late lunch at the Lobster Shack, an eatery on the bay not to be missed if you stop at Cervantes.

Wednesday 13 September

When you travel you are always watching the weather and my friend Louise had warned us that Sep – Nov can be very windy in WA, particularly on the coast towards Geraldton. We had been watching the weather forecast and Wednesday was forming as a rough, very windy and stormy day so we set off early from Cervantes aiming for Geraldton.

The weather and the storms tail is all the way to Geraldton. The clouds are racing with 25-30km/hr winds with gusts to 60 and 70km/hr.

We stop at Port Denison for a toilet break and the wind makes it hard to walk. The coast and the sea is wild and it’s a relief to get back in the car.

As we approach Geraldton the weather catches us and it feels like we are in a ship on the high seas rather than in a vehicle on the road as we rock and sway with wind.

We had planned to stay on the foreshore which on a fine day at Geraldton would have been lovely. With the wind and rain though it was quite unpleasant when we arrived with wind and rain increasing. The site wasn’t level either so between having to level the van in the weather and a chain fence nearby that was making a lot of noise in the wind, we decided to head off again in search of a more favourable spot.

We head East and about 20kms outside Geraldton fins a lovely free camp on a hill at Bringo.

Hoping tomorrow is a better day, weather wise.

Hope you are all well. Stay safe and look after one another. xx

Aussie Lap – Perth & Rottnest Island

Location: Perth City & Rottnest Island

Region: Metropolitan

Date: Sunday 3 – Wednesday 6 September 2023

Temperature:

My daughter Carly arrived from Brisbane late on Saturday night so after a leisurely start we took her to the Fremantle markets and then for a quick visit to Kings Park.

I love both of these locations, Freemantle markets are now only open Friday – Sunday but were as bustling as I remembered. We wandered the aisles and tried a few of the food stalls, amazed at the eclectic mix of cuisines and food options, everything from Vietnamese to Cronuts.

I bought Fire Cider, a potent mix of herbs and spices blended with cider vinegar, an old world remedy revisited for all things that ail us humans and Carly bought some Matcha Bau buns!

Kings Park is a long time favourite also and the great thing about it is that it changes every time you visit, depending on the season and the changing displays.

Both are an absolute must for first time visitors to Perth!

On Monday we set out early for a day trip to Rottnest Island, we had organised bikes to tour the island on and we were all looking forward to meeting the famous “Quokka’s”.

The day started out damp and with a drizzly wet walk from our car parked in Freo to the jetty and Ferry to Rottnest.

Fun fact – Rottnest is Dutch for “nest of rats“ which is what the Dutch first thought the Quokka’s were – giant rats!

Fortunately by the time we travelled over, about 45mins the weather had broken and we looked set for a nice warm day.

After disembarking at Thompson Bay we collected our hired bicycles and with helmets on set out to cycle around the island.

The island is beautifully remote in its own way and has pockets of a accommodation scattered around the coastline.

We cycle anticlockwise taking in Little Armstrong, Catherine and Stark Bays. We then head inland in search of the “Pink Lake” we’ve read about. We find the lake but it is only vaguely pink, must be the wrong time of the year.

Our plan was to cycle the whole way round – 22km but we soon realised that the Quokka’s were really only to be found around the settlement so after cycling for a couple of hours Carly and I headed back, leaving Rob to explore the far side of the island towards Fish Hook Bay.

Back at Thompson Bay we quickly find some very cute Quokka’s including a Mum and Joey and Carly and I take way to many photos.

The little Joey was very interested in Carly and spent ages checking her out and hanging with us. Mum stayed nearby and they eventually totaled off together.

Once Rob arrived back we checked the bikes back in and wandered through the village before sitting to have a snack.

One of the Quokka’s was very interested in my green backpack. We had forgotten we had stowed a banana peel in a pocket earlier and the little fella was very intent on checking it out, getting very insistent and close to both Rob and I. Even after we disposed of the peel he hung around wanting to get to know both of us.

We had a great day and we’re sorry to leave. You could sit and watch the Quokka’s all day and if you sit quietly enough, sometimes they will want to check you out too.

Once arriving back in Fremantle we headed back to Perth and finished off our special day with Carly with a trip into the city to go to Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King for a fantastic bowl of Ramen, Yum!

The next day we went to Hillary’s to catch up with family before farewelling Carly the day after as she headed off to Singapore on her first solo trip overseas!

Rob and I will now spend a few days in Perth getting ready to head up into the Gascoyne region to Geraldton, Kalbarri and Monkey Mia!

Update 11 Sep. Carly had a great first solo trip and is back in Australia safely from her holiday.

Aussie Lap – Windy Harbour

Location: D’Entrecasteaux National Park

Region: South West WA

Date: Tuesday, 31 October 2023

Temperature: Northcliffe 8-21 degrees, cool morning, overcast, then sunny from late morning. Top of 20 degrees at Windy Harbour

Today Rob planned a day trip to Windy Harbour in D’Entrecasteaux National Park. The drive out and back is interesting as the landscape varies from soaring Karri forest to coastal scrub, then more forest then back to coast scrub.

We stop for a short hike up Mt Chudalup. 1.0km return with 187mtr ascendency so straight up with a steep rock climb to the summit.

The hike is relatively quick with a few slips on the pebbles as we go up stairs and slopes. The rock climb begins with pretty bridges and walkways over wet areas and the surrounds are filled with flowers. Amazing 360 degree views from the top all around of the coastline and surrounding country. The wildflowers are beautiful and there is so much colour in the lichen and flora. Very well worth the climb!

After Mt Chudalup we continue onto Windy Harbour, a small holiday village with many beach shacks that are obviously used year round given the amount of chimneys and I hear that the tide is much lower than normal, perhaps due to the full moon two days ago?

We head straight out to Cathedral Rock and spend a while chatting with fellow travellers Alana and Wayne from Iluka in Northern NSW.

Next we drive out Salmon Bay lookout and then Natures Window. The views of the Southern Ocean are stunning and the overcast day has well and truly disappeared and the sun shines.

We stop at Tookalup for a picnic lunch and a bit of whale watching and we were lucky enough to spot a Mum and Calf travelling along the coast.

After lunch we finished our Southern Coastal visit with a walk on the of the Survivor’s Coastal pathway, 5.2km return from Windy Harbour and then Rob took a dip at Windy Bay.

A big hello to two couples we met over the last two days; Chris and Neil Woods wandering Australia from Adelaide in South Australia and Alanna and Wayne from Iluka, in Northern NSW. Both long term travellers and lovely people, very happy to stop and chat.