Aussie Lap – Coffin Bay

Location: Venus Bay, Elliston, Coffin Bay

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Monday 26 – Wednesday 28 February 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 36 Degrees

Monday 26 February: 17 – 28 Degrees

We set off from Venus Bay around 10am, planning to stop at Elliston to drop the van and do the art trail before continuing on to Coffin Bay. About 175kms in total today and still heading South East on the Eyre Peninsula.

We arrive Elliston which is about 60km from Venus and unhitch the van at the jetty. The art trail is about 20km of dirt road and with a lot of stops it’s just easier to leave the van.

The art trail is along a stunning coastal cliff drive and is well worth a visit with the sculptures set high on the cliffs and the majestic Australian Bight as a backdrop.

There is no blurb for the art pieces unfortunately although there may be online.? There seems to me to be a strong connection between the land and the sea in the art and the coastline is not to be missed!

After the art trail, we fuel up and continue our drive Coffin Bay and arrive close to 5pm. We set up and enjoy Prawns bought in Venus bay and salad for dinner.

Tuesday 27 February, 18 – 36 degrees

This morning we do the drive through the National Park. It’s an attractive journey through towering sand dunes of white sand dotted with mallee trees and the coastal shrubbery is full of colour, red, green, russet and lime.

We stop at Golden Island Lookout and watched two seals playing in the waves below for ages; one of them trying to steal catch from a person fishing down on the beach, then chasing a school of fish in the shallows. So cool and fun to watch.

The area is stunning with Golden Island glowing in the sunshine and Almonta Beach stretching up to the left with huge sands pillowing in the distance.

After spending time watching the seals we start to head back as we have an Oyster tour this afternoon. We stop at Point Avoid lookout. The coastal views is amazing again.

We also stop at Clayton’s lookout – view to the right of the lookout with lovely sandy beaches at the bottom of the cliffs.

The day is getting hotter and as 2:30 approaches the day is only getting warmer. At Oyster HQ we put on waders and immediately start to sweat. I’m glad we have both worn sun shirts as we will be in the sun during the tour.

We walk out and it’s immediately cooler in the Bay but the waders cling. It gets deeper and is an interesting walk to the pontoon. I give my phone to Rob as I’m more likely to fall over than he. 🤣😂🤣

We arrive at the Pontoon and our host from England “Rob” continued his presentation regaling us with history of the area, peppered with good humour while serving drinks.

We receive oysters and a lesson in shucking, complete with glove and sharp knife. It goes well and I manage to open my four oysters plus the extra two I earned from answering questions; pays to read brochures it turns out 😅 and they are beyond deliciousness! Best oysters ever, salty, briny and with that unmistakable metallic aftertaste! Amazing. The whole event is delightful, informative and entertaining.

We chat to Dee and Nic, a couple we met in Venus Bay and who kindly take a photo for us on the walk back in. After removing the waders we head into the restaurant for happy hour, joined by Dee and Nic.

While enjoying good company and a cool beverage we see two emus head down to the water and wade in for a dip. I’ve seen an emu wade previously at Streaky Bay but these two lay down and roll around!

They sit in the water, obviously enjoying it and cooling down for about 10 minutes!

What a sight!

The day is complete with a divine Seafood Platter that Rob had prearranged when he booked the tour. Starting with Oyster Shooters and Oyster pate, there isn’t a thing that is deep fried! The platter has Tuna sashimi, Kingfish sashimi, Vongole, Ceviche, Mussels, Prawns, Squid, Salmon, Scallops, Green Island Kawasaki, Pilchard, Garfish and a Morton Bay Bug!

What a way to end a fantastic day.

Wednesday 28 February, 15 – 27 degrees

It’s windy overnight and we wake to a cool start. First task today is to feed my starter as I’m making bread later. I set the discard aside for two quick crumpets and after breakfast and a tidy up we head out on the Oyster Walk. This walk goes all along the foreshore of coffin bay and extends on the approach to Coffin Bay out for about 20km including historical areas with the Oyster industry. Today however we take the walk starting from Oyster HQ; opposite the caravan park, and head out around the headland, past the mariner which is full of birds. We see ducks, galahs and lots of gulls of course as we walk out and the cool overcast day eventually morphs to sunshine on the return.

The rest of the morning is taken up with the first steps of bread making and I set a loaf for 1st proof before we head back out to the National Park for some Beach time at Almonta Beach. what a great place to relax.

Another busy lovely day. Early in the evening I do the last shape and fold on the dough and tuck it into its banneton for bulk overnight proofing in the fridge before settling in for the night.

Next stop – Port Lincoln tomorrow.

Stay safe and be kind. xx

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

Location: Cactus Bay, Ceduna, Smoky Bay, Point Brown, Port Kenny, Venus Bay.

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Thursday 22 February – Sunday 25 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 -31 Degrees

Thursday 22 February, 25 – 36 Degrees

So we left Cactus Bay around 10am. I decided I needed to wash my hair as it’s started to go yellow! Apparently grey hair picks up all sorts from the atmosphere, water and the sun, and as I only wash my hair every 7-10 days (I’ve always done this) and it’s getting longer, all of these elements seem to be affecting my hair. I have this toning shampoo which I use irregularly so obviously I need to use it more often.

I head for the cold shower and wash it. Bearing in mind this shower is bore water, very salty and in order to preserve water I’m not conditioning but at least it feels clean and seems to be less yellow.

It’s a female thing, what can I say!

As we are leaving camp, Chris, who holds the maintenance lease pops by and we get to say goodbye to him and the dogs, Kelly who rides on the roof and Catup who enjoyed some steak fat the other evening.

Rob also gets a new blue Cactus T Shirt.

On the way back to Penong I catch the awesome sand dunes in the morning light and we pass the pink lake (still not very pink) but very salty.

We continue back to Penong, on the very rough dirt road, then turn right on the Eyre highway towards Ceduna. We pass through border quarantine, no problem then visit a dump point and refuel. We head to the Foodland and pick up a few supplies, fresh fruit, yogurt, crackers and soda water, then hit the road. Next stop Smoky Bay.

Smoky Bay is small with lots of fresh oysters outlets and a caravan park right on the foreshore, one for another time perhaps. Rob and I are off grid and hoping to do 10 days in preparation for the Flinders Ranges. Day 7 today. We purchase some fresh oysters, 12 for $10 and head off. Our camp is at Browns Point about 8km out of town, then 20km down a very rough dirt road. Corrugates, ruts and rocks, worst road by far!

Very Rough! No kidding this is one of the roughest roads I’ve ever traveled and a true test for our Trax S3 off road Van. When we arrive, after much jolting, I’m very surprised to see that the only things that have moved in the van are the T towel and the bin! Amazing!

We set down then head out for a walk to explore the foreshore. It’s quite windy and there are loads of birds on the foreshore and up to and around the point.

I spy a stingray in the shallows and we watch them flit about.

So many birds… and with the tide out it seems a haven.

Back at the van we enjoy our Oysters then Chicken and Roast Beetroot Salad, then sundown.

Friday, 23 February, 12- 22, Sunny, windy

I have a dough to bake so that’s my first task today. It’s been in the fridge since Thursday evening on a bulk prove.

Rob has a nice hike planned so after baking and tidying the van we set off towards the point and some rock pools he’s read about.

The coastline is wild and beautiful and the tide has just turned and is coming in. We follow the coastline around and towards the point, eventually finding the rock pools.

On the way back Rob steps on a baby brown we think. I’m not sure who got the bigger fright!

That evening the wind ratchets up and we are rocked to sleep. About 10:30 I’m woken by noise and headlights. Just another traveller in a small van, in late but I can’t imagine driving that rough road in the dark! Next day they left early without saying hello.

Saturday 24 February, 18 – 37 degrees

We pack up and set off around 9:30, the road has not improved in the two days and we take it very slowly back to the highway, 25kms in 1:45hrs I reckon.

At Penong we turn East and travel on past Streaky Bay, next stop Murphy’s haystacks which we missed, when exploring this area last August.

Only 3 kms off the Flinders highway on the inland side. Known as Inselbergs (a hill that looks like a rocky island rising sharply from the sea), they are the result of erosion and harrowing (a technique used to cultivate the land) and are located on Murphy’s property. It’s a lovely walk and a great opportunity to stretch the legs.

We pass on to and then through Port Kenny and on to Venus Bay. On the way we see several emu’s including two crossing the road in front of us, two snakes, also on the road and a lizard.

At Venus we set up and find out there is a comedy night – Fairy Floss & Chaos with food trucks at Port Kenny so we organise a seat. We share the courtesy bus with Chris and Rea of 4WDIVE safaris (tube) and enjoy a fun night with hilarious standup comedians. Marc Ryan the beautiful bogan, El Jaguar, Joshua Warrior and Dom Robinson. Great night! Thank you Port Kenny Hotel.

We are home by 10pm and enjoy the bright new moon over the bay before turning in.

NEW MOON

Sunday 25 February, 15 – 25 degrees

Sunday morning we decide to hike the South-head trail which runs along the foreshore of Venus bay. It a lovely hike, about 6km with stunning cliff and ocean views along with crumbling cliff edges and loads of bird life.

Afterwards we stop at the Cafe opposite the jetty to get beer and fish and chips for a late lunch! A great weekend at Venus Bay!

Tomorrow we continue South towards Coffin Bay and Port Lincoln.

Love to all, stay safe and be kind. x

Rob’s addition – as the Dalai Lama says

“Be kind whenever possible, it is always possible.”

Aussie Lap – SA, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight

Locations: Nullarbor, Cliffs of Bight, Penong, Point Sinclair

Regions: Alinytjara-Wilurara

Dates: Sunday 18 – Thursday 22 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 31 degrees, fog and sun

Monday 19 February, 15 – 29 degrees.

The night was cool and Rob and I are grappling with the time change. Yesterday the time had kept switching back and forth; four times, after we left Eucla. Starting at 11:50am WA time which changed to 2:20pm SA time then back again a short time later and then switching back and forth several times.

We arrived at the Bunda Cliff Camp 2 at 3:00pm WA or was it 5:30pm SA time? We decided to stick with WA time for the rest of the day and then SA time from tomorrow.

The night skies are amazing but I can’t get good photos with the iPhone… need to work on this!

Monday morning we wake at 3:30am WA time, 6:00am SA time just as the sky lightens. There has been a very heavy dew overnight and it’s a cool 15 degrees.

The sunrise is spectacularly beautiful.

We anticipate a quiet day with a long walk but around 9:30 a fog rolls in… and continues until about 4:30pm and then starts to lift a little. We set up the Starlink and Rob relaxes with a movie – Oppenheimer and I catch up the blog and make some date scones. Yum!

We head out for a long walk about 4:30pm but the mist continues, rolling in as it gets later in the day.

Tuesday 20 Feb, 18-31 degrees

Tuesday dawned, still misty on the cliffs so we decided to cut our time here and move on. This is one of the main benefits of free camping – flexibility.

A couple we met from Mandurah, WA the previous day on the cliffs (sorry can’t recall their names!) recommended Cactus Bay, 270kms East and 20km South of Penong which is about 60km West of Ceduna on the WA/SA border so we thought we would check it out.

The journey is uneventful (always what we hope for 😀) with a few wide loads on trucks to navigate; 4.5metres wide the largest, and again the UHF is a must when travelling these roads, even if you aren’t towing.

Crossing the Nullarbor the only animal we see is a dingo, very casually crossing the road as we approach Nullarbor Roadhouse but I miss getting a photo. We stop for a coffee and I find a very similar hat to the one Rob lost last week as a gift for him.

Love you handsome. ❤️

We stop at Penong for milk and greens to finish a roast beetroot and radish salad I have planned to go with steak for dinner and then turn South towards the Coast.

I’ve heard good things about this camp so I’m excited. The road out is tough with lots of corrugated ruts and holes so it’s a slow drive which is ok as there is lots to see. The pink lake at Point Sinclair may be pink in full sun, so maybe tomorrow, lake Mac Donnell stretches out on the left and towering sand dunes are both left and right.

This is a private camp and first in, best served to find a camp spot. It looks reasonably full so we feel fortunate to find a nice, reasonably flat spot with a flushing toilet nearby! The facilities are amazing including many toilets, cold showers and a camp kitchen at a very reasonable day rate per person. Happy Days!

The surfers beach is a short walk over the dunes and the point is just up the road. After setup we take a walk to explore the area.

Wednesday 21 Feb, 17 – 27 degrees

I start a sourdough for a loaf around 8:00am and after the folds set it aside for the 1st proof and Rob and set out for a cross country hike and a swim at Point Le Hunt.

We start the walk on Cactus Beach and then head for the rough coastal path which follows the point around to the left.

We follow the edge as long as possible but eventually need to go up and along the coastline before we come to a huge expanse of granite.

We continue to follow the Granite around the coastline until we can go no further due to the contour then head up and across the point til we find 4WD tracks which we follow, backtracking a few times until we reach the other side and Point Le Hunte.

We head down and explore the jetty and read about the shipwreck and the jetty and a the tragic loss of a young boy to a shark attack in 1975 before we take a dip in the shark protected netted area.

After our swim we walk back to camp along the dirt road admiring the huge sand dunes on either side of the point. We relax and once my bread has finished its 1st proof, I prepare for the bulk overnight proving in the fridge. Dinner is grilled fish and bean ragu.

This is such a lovely spot to relax and a credit to the original owner with such foresight to infrastructure in a remote outback area. Thank you. 🙏🏻

Our day is complete with another beautiful sunset. Complete with two surfers enjoying their last waves of the day.

Thursday 22 Feb, 16 – 28 degrees

We depart today, next stop Smoky Bay.

Love to all, stay safe, take care and be kind. xx

Aussie Lap – WA – SA, Eucla, Nullabor

Locations: Norseman, Woorbla, Eucla, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight.

Regions: Goldfields- Esperance, Alinytjara-Wilurara

Dates: Friday 16 – Monday 19 February

Temperatures: 15 – 41

Friday 16 Feb, 18-39 degrees

We set off from Esperance at 9:30am and it’s already 26 degrees! We planned to drive North to Norseman 220kms, then turn East towards the Nullabor and stop at Woorbla roadside camp just past Balladonia 236km, hoping for a cooler night.

The drive is uneventful, we pass through Grass Patch and Salmon Gums on the way to Norseman. I fell in love with this gum tree while exploring the Southwest. It has the most amazing bark which is an exquisite salmon-rose gold and silver colour with a tall straight trunk and towering top.

A quick stop at Norseman for fuel; we tend to fill up in most towns to share the love so to speak, and we continue on to Balladonia and our campsite.

We’ve read if you put water out for the birds, you will soon have visitors and when we arrive, some travellers have thoughtfully left a container and a sign so we fill the container and very soon have visitors. It’s a hot evening, only getting down to 24 about 11pm, 20 by 3am and already 27 by the time we leave the next morning.

Saturday 17 February 20 – 41 degrees

My left foot is still quite swollen from the March Fly bite, the swelling made my skin peel and it’s still uncomfortable on day 3.

We set off, headed for Eucla and the Old Telegraph camp tonight. about 500kms.

We pass Caiguna and then Cocklebiddy where we stop for fuel and a quick visit to Samantha and Bruce, two Wedgetail Eagles I’ve mentioned previously. They are held by special rehabilitation licence and help to educate drivers on their habits to prevent accidents. Wedgies are scavengers that often eat road kill. They are the largest raptor predator in Australia and due to their size; with a wingspan of up to 2.84metres, they lift off then swoop back down to catch wind-drafts so that they can gain height and this slow lift off means they are vulnerable to be hit by cars and trucks.

We pass Mundrabilla, about 1:30pm again stopping for a fuel top up, then arrive Eucla around 5:30pm. We don’t travel very fast, usually sitting on 90km per hour, mainly for safety and also fuel consumption. We don’t need to rush and the temperature in the car a/c is welcome as it hits 41 degrees at about 2:40pm.

The camp is in front of sand dunes and the old Telegraph station sits just behind. It’s about 1km walk to the coast and once again it’s full of March Flies. I adopt a a silly “March Fly” dance, waving my arms and stamping my feet so they can’t land on me and thankfully I survive the walk out and back before escaping into the van!

I spend the next few hours cooking up all the fruit and vegetables we have as we are about to cross the border into SA the next day. I stew apples and nectarines. I pickle cucumber and radish. With Rob’s help we roast beetroot, sweet potatoes, potatoes and garlic. I make a tomato sauce, a bean ragu to serve with fish and another version of ratatouille. I chop potatoes, zucchini and onions for the freezer and zest and juice lemons… the next day I find out the quarantine station is 490km’s away at Ceduna 🤦🏼‍♀️. Oh well, at least most of my cooking for the next week or so is done!

We set off, first back into explore Eucla before a short drive out to the cliffs.

Sunday 18 Feb, 17 – 29 degrees

A cool start but the day quickly warms up. We pass through the SA border (no quarantine this side 🤦🏼‍♀️) and on to the 10km peg camp on the cliffs. The site is nice but the cliffs are a fair way back from the coastline so we decide to move on to Bunda Camp 2, 138km South.

We arrive at Bunda Camp, only short 4km’s off the highway and the road out to the cliffs is not too bad.

The cliffs are stunning and the air is pleasantly cool 26 degrees with a mild breeze. We take a walk along the cliffs and chat to many campers, from Qld, NSW and Vic. The sunset is amazing and we cook roast lamb to have with ratatouille and potatoes already cooked. An easy end to a lovely day.

More tomorrow. Hope you have had a great weekend. Love to all. Stay safe, be kind. xx

Aussie Lap – Esperance Pt 2

Locations:, Esperance, Wharton Bay and Cordingup.

Regions: SouthEast, Goldfields- Esperance

Dates: Tue 13 Feb – Fri 16 Feb

Temperatures: 18 – 39 Degrees

Tuesday 13 February 18 – 26 degrees

Tuesday is part jobs, part exploring so first up is starting a load of bread. Once all the folds are done and the bread is set aside for its first rise we head out to Lucky Bay Brewery; just outside of town, for lunch.

Before going to lunch we check out Wylie Bay. This piece of coast can be driven on, due to the crusty compacted white sand and its a 22km drive from there to Cape Le Grand.

Wylie Bay is beautiful, with some rocky areas and one you can cross a small inlet to. Once out on the rock we spy “Sammy”.

Sammy is the name used for every seal that visits Esperance. We spied Sammy cavorting in the shallows but they soon moved further out, presumably due to us. I was fortunate to get one reasonable photo of their little face peaking out of the water.

Lunch at Lucky Bay was awesome. We enjoyed a Prosciutto, Tomato and Rocket Salad and a Hellfire Pepperoni Pizza!

Wednesday 14 February 15 – 26 degrees

Happy Valentine’s Day!

A cooler day today so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he met and had a chat with.

The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though, which is good to see.

Wharton Bay is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.

We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.

We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and discomfort, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere we have been lately and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work! If anyone knows of a good deterrent and or remedy for bites, please let me know.

We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.

Thursday 15 February, 18 – 37 degrees

It’s a hot one today so I’m up early cooking, baking bread and washing clothes, then grocery shopping.

When we leave Esperance we plan to travel back up to Norseman then across the Nullabor fairly quickly as we will be off grid and are expecting a few hot nights with the current heatwave. Having a couple of meals ready will help reduce heat in the van and makes for an easy evening after a long day driving. Yesterday I made a batch of San Choy Bow, today Ratatouille and as most meals last two days that will get us through to Sunday.

My left foot has swollen during the mornings work so I elevate it for a while and we finish the day with a lovely swim at Twilight Beach.

Tomorrow we head off, back towards SA. Stay safe and be kind.

Aussie Lap – Esperance Pt 2

Locations:, Esperance, Wharton Bay and Cordingup.

Regions: SouthEast

Dates: Wed 14 Feb – Fri 16 Feb

Temperatures: 18 – 39Degrees

Wednesday 14 February 15 – 26 degrees

A cooler day today and Valentine’s Day so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he had met and had a chat with.

The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though which is good to see.

Wharton is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.

We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.

We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and pain, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere along the coast and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work!

We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.

Thursday 15 February, temp 18 – 37

On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.

We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.

During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.

Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.

This picture courtesy Wikipedia.

How it used to look.

Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance

Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24

Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.

Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!

Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.

First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.

We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.

On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.

After a dip and some drying time it’s back in the car and we start to head back, taking in Whistling Rock, Thistle Cove and lastly Hellfire Bay.

As Collin’s would say… What a day!

More later. Stay safe and be kind.

Aussie Lap – Esperance Pt 2

Locations:, Esperance, Wharton Bay and Cordingup.

Regions: SouthEast

Dates: Wed 12 Feb – Fri 16 Feb

Temperatures: 18 – 39Degrees

Wednesday 12 February 15 – 26 degrees

A cooler day today so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he had met and had a chat with.

The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though which is good to see.

Wharton is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.

We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.

We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and pain, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere along the coast and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work!

We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.

Thursday 15 February, temp 18 – 37

On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.

We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.

During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.

Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.

This picture courtesy Wikipedia.

How it used to look.

Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance

Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24

Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.

Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!

Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.

First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.

We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.

On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.

After a dip and some drying time it’s back in the car and we start to head back, taking in Whistling Rock, Thistle Cove and lastly Hellfire Bay.

As Collin’s would say… What a day!

More later. Stay safe and be kind.

Aussie Lap – Esperance Pt 1

Locations: Hopetoun, Esperance

Regions: SouthEast

Dates: Sat 10 Feb – Fri 16 Feb

Temperatures: 13 – 40 Degrees

Saturday 10 February 19 – 40 degrees

We left Hopetoun around 10am and head back up the highway towards Ravensworth before turning left onto the Jerdacuttup Road.

Along the way we stop to see items of the Farm Gate Art trail exhibit that we’d glimpsed on the way in to Hopetoun.

With temperatures reaching 40 on the highway, once again as we approach Esperance and the coast, the temperature drops to a much more comfortable 27 degrees on arrival. We are staying for six days at the Esperance Bay Holiday Park which is at the end of the Esplanade adjacent to the Port Harbour.

After setting up we take a long walk along the Esplanade and the Jetty. The path is lined with towering pines – Norfolk I think and the esplanade has lots of interesting activities for children including a bike track, a mini railway, a skate park and several dedicated swimming areas, one with a pontoon and swimming lanes!

Back at the van we finish the day with Lamb Roast and chargrilled vege then enjoy drinks with our neighbours Tony and Dale from Glebe NSW and Mark and Sue from Sunshine Coast QLD.

Sunday 11 February, temp 18 – 37

On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.

We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.

During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.

Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.

This picture courtesy Wikipedia.

How it used to look.

Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance

Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24

Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.

Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!

Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.

First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.

We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.

On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.

After a dip and some drying time it’s back in the car and we start to head back, taking in Whistling Rock, Thistle Cove and lastly Hellfire Bay.

As Collin’s would say… What a day!

More later. Stay safe and be kind.

Aussie Lap – Perth to Esperance WA

Locations: Brunswick, Collie, Wagin, Dumbleyung, Hopetoun, Esperance

Regions: Great Southern and South East

Dates: Tue 6 Feb – Sat 10 Feb 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 40 (Heatwave 7-10 Feb)

It feels sad to be leaving Perth after five months of it being our base. Especially hard to be saying goodbye for now, to family and friends.

Brunswick Tuesday 6 Feb

Happy birthday to Lynda D for yesterday xx.

Rob and I set off for Brunswick, then leave the van at the towns RV stop on the oval and then drive to “Honeymoon Pool” a campground on the Collie river. Not suitable for caravans unfortunately but a great spot for camping.

The water is so clear you can see the bottom and the campground has a platform and steps down to the water. We swim and chat with other travellers during the heat of the afternoon before setting off to find Wentworth Dam wall and its famous murals, part of the Collie mural art trail.

Collie – Dumbleyung Wednesday 7 Feb

Happy birthday Kay Fry xx. Temp 19-35.

Rob and I start the day with a quick trip to Bunbury farmers market. For a foodie like me, it’s an amazing place with some really great ingredients like Harissa and Za’ atar! After a quick breakfast of Rhubarb & Greek Yogurt Granola, spinach and Ricotta roll and coffee we hit the market. Beware though it’s a bit like IKEA – one way only. Take your time and enjoy 🤩.

Back at the van we load groceries and hitch the van , then set off for Collie and the art Trail walk.

The art trail is scattered around the centre of town and links to the murals at the Dam wall in the Ferguson Valley that we visited yesterday. We arrive at 12:30 and it’s 32 degrees which is hot but not too bad and so we do part of the walk. The murals are interesting and some of them are really stunning. A few of my favourites here.

Collie is a great town with lots of walking trails and the Munda Biddi bike trail passes through here. The town has a lovely park in the centre with toilets and showers and the Main Street on the other side of the rail line which runs through the middle is full of charming historical buildings that are still in use today.

Wish we could stay longer…

Our next stop is our camp at Dumbleyung, 160km East of Collie so round 200kms today. On the way we pause at Wagin to see the big ram. Wagin reminds me of Harden-Murrumburrah NSW, where I grew up as it too is wheat and sheep country with rolling hills and in late summer, dry as toast!

Our camp tonight is at Dumbleyung oval and I bake bread before we set off the next day.

Dumbleyung is a small town in this vast wheatbelt. It has lots of history including the land speed record set by Donald Campbell in in his vehicle the Bluebird.

On December 31, 1964 a crowd gathered on the shores of Lake Dumbleyung to watch English speedster Donald Campbell break a world water speed record.

Mr Campbell clocked an incredible 444.71kph across the lake in his bright blue hydroplane, the Bluebird.

Earlier that year, Mr Campbell set a land speed record at Lake Eyre in South Australia.

Dumbleyung – Hopetoun Thur 8 Feb

Temperature 19 – 38

Still heading East, oOur drive today has lots of very straight roads and continuing wheat fields.

We pass through Lake Grace literally; which is mostly salt, as the lake is on both sides of the road. Lake King further on is mostly salt alsoand then we run towards the South.

Between Lake Grace and Ravensthorpe we moved into the South East region WA.

About 15kms out of Ravensthorpe the temperature at 38 starts to drop and by the time we reach Hopetoun it’s at a much cooler 25.

Hopetoun Thursday 8 Feb – Sat 10 Feb

Temps 17-27 – perfect 🤩

We were hoping to free camp with a beachside stay but on arrival it was full so luckily the local beachside caravan park could accommodate us. After setting down we spend the afternoon exploring the beautiful beach. The water is cool and the sun is warm.

Friday we spend the day exploring the Fitzgerald National Park. We visit Mt Barren and the lookout, then Cave Point and West Beach for a swim.

Cave Point is awesome and we can see Mt Barren to the left and West Beach to the right.

West Beach is beautiful, wild and windy and we have the whole place to ourselves. We explore rock pools and find one sheltered from the wind, almost like a spa!

We finish the day with sunset on the beach after an early dinner. Hopetoun is lovely, isolated, quiet and cool. A great place to relax with a great National park to explore nearby. One to come back too I think.

Next stop Esperance.

Lots of love to all. Stay safe and be kind to one another.

Aussie Lap – WA Swan Valley, York, Yarloop, Bunbury and Australind

Location: York, Yarloop, Bunbury and Australind

Region: South West and Great Southern

Dates: Tuesday 23 January – Friday 2 February 2024

Temperatures: 14 – 36 (including Heatwave)

Swan Valley Wed 23 – Fri 26 January

This is our last trip out from Perth exploring this great state of WA. The weather has been hot and we were looking forward to some cooler weather heading South and time on the beach.

Originally when we booked Swan Valley Tourist Park (a while ago) we were imagining lazy walks and some winery visits. Instead we find ourselves doing van maintenance and weekly jobs of bread making and washing on the first day we arrive.

York Wednesday 24 January

Rob really wanted to see the historical town of York, the oldest inland town of WA so on our second day in the Swan Valley we head out there, about 1hr, 87km West of Swan Valley.

We spend the day following the heritage trail, visiting the sick factory and enjoying lunch at the Imperial hotel.

Our second day of Swan Valley is taken up with bread baking, more maintenance (Rob working on the Stone Stomper and me cleaning windows and more cooking) before we head out to Funk Cider about 500metres from the park!

We enjoyed lazy paddles of cider for me and beer for Rob before heading back and joining our fellow neighbours Ann and Kenny for dinner with other family and friends. A great night, thanks for the invitation Ann!

Pinjarra Fri 26 January

On Australia Day we left Swan Valley heading inland for the long weekend. We headed South West towards Pt Heron to hopefully catch up with my niece Lynda who was camping there with other friends. Along the way we passed through Pinjarra and I spied a sign for the best meat pie in Australia 2021! Of course we had to stop!

The Beef and Beef and Mushroom pies went down a treat and we also had a Vanilla Slice and tropical smoothie. All were very good!

Waroona Fri 26 January

We’ve found most WA towns to be full of charm, history and often very RV friendly. Waroona was one such of these.

Overnight camp on the oval Friday 26th

Yarloop Sat 27 Jan – Mon 29 Jan

1.5 hour South West of Perth on the South Western Highway. Overnight in the towns RV stop with toilet and sink but no soap or hand washing facilities. 14-34 degrees.

Yarloop is a charming National Trust heritage town with ties to the wood milling industry. The whole town was severely affected by bushfires in 2016, losing 2 lives and 220 homes. The quiet town , now mostly rebuilt still shows signs of recovery. Rebuilding has included a new Heritage trail which records the history of the old milling town’s original characters and buildings with photos along a 3.5km walk taking in most of the town and the railway line.

A lovely stay not far from the coast but far enough to enjoy the beautiful night skies and the full moon over the long weekend away from crowds as WA enjoys the last weekend of the school holidays. A great spot to catch up with my niece Lynda and enjoy some quality time catching up over prawns, crab, roast lamb with ratatouille and chocolate cake!

Options to explore nearby include the towns steam workshops which provide guided tours and Logue Brook Dam sound good for a picnic & swim.

Bunbury Monday 29 Jan – Wed 31 Jan

This is our third visit to Bunbury a thriving coastal community with beautiful beaches, coastal paths and lots to see and do.

Known as the “City of three waters” for the roaring Indian Ocean, nearby Koombana Bay and Leschenault estuary.

A heatwave is predicted Wednesday 31 January- Friday 2nd February so we were lucky to be heading to the Coast in the days leading up to this. We spent the days with early morning walks, swimming and long bike rides including a visit to Bunbury Farmers Market. One of the best ever so don’t miss it if you get the chance to go!

Australind Thursday 1 Feb – Fri 2 Feb

Another favourite place to stop is Christina Reserve on the Leschenault Reserve, a free council stay that requires booking for up to 48 hours either toilets nearby.

The day we arrive it got to 36 so we spent most of the day relaxing in the shade to avoid the heat. On the second day we walk out on to the Eco Discovery walk and watch crabbers, people fishing and enjoy the abundant bird life. The day is heating up though so on return we elect to drive back into Bunbury, (about 20km) for a swim, shower then lunch and a movie in aircon.

Friday morning we head back to Perth for our last weekend before starting to head East again. We have a great time with my niece Lucy, her daughter Clare & Ryan and the beautiful Zoe and baby Dustin and catch up with Lynda too (Happy Birthday for next week).

So nice to spend time with family.

A big thank you to Louise, a wonderful friend who hosted us each time we returned to Perth. We will miss you.

Next stop Esperance. Love to all!

Take care, be kind and stay safe!