Aussie Lap – Mataranka to Katherine NT

Locations: Mataranka and Katherine NT

Region: Katherine NT

Dates: Tuesday 23 July – Friday 26 July 2024

Temperatures: 18 – 33 degrees

Tuesday 23 July 2024

Mataranka to Katherine 100km’s

Total trip kilometres 3384

We are due in Katherine by 2pm, booked in at the Discovery Park so we decide to visit Mataranka homestead for a morning swim before setting off.

At Mataranka homestead there is a replica of the old homestead used in the 1982 film, We Of The Never Never based on the life and book by Jeannie Gunn who lived in the region in the early 1900’s which we visit.

We then enjoy our walk through the trees and our swim and an early lunch of Barra burgers before saying goodbye to Mataranka and traveling on to Katherine.

The weather has continued to warm as we’ve moved North and by the time we reach Katherine the day is very warm. We set up our camp and take a dip in the very new resort pool. It’s very cold compared to the springs this morning.

Wednesday 24 July 2024

Katherine NT

Temperature: 18 – 32, hot, sunny

Today we visit the Katherine Springs. These springs are separated at each end of the current by barriers but there are still signs regarding fresh water crocodiles. The water is warm but not as hot as the 34 degree springs at Mataranka. Our dip is very refreshing and there is a small fall at one end that Rob playfully takes a swim over. He’s a big kid at heart. ❤️

On the way back to the park we shop for a few groceries and I spend the afternoon starting to sort food for the NT/WA quarantine border crossing.

I pickle some of Hazel’s lovely daikon radish and carrot and start a new sourdough loaf while catching up on washing.

Thursday 25 July 2024

Temperature: 24 – 33, hot humid

Butterfly Gorge Hike

Rob has found a nice hike, about 12km out to the 3rd Gorge on the Katherine River and you can swim so we set off early around 8:30am.

The hike is out and back in the Nitmiluk National Park which is about 20km from our park and part of the Baruwei Loop/Gurumal Trail a moderate rated trail.

The first 4 kilometres of the track essentially follow a fire trail from the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre. The track has a total elevation of 200m is very rocky, even slippery with loose shale at times, there are few patches of shade and we go up and down several times as we walk along the escarpment.

As we approach the next section of the trail we see a sign explaining where we are and from here the track gets very narrow and rocky, goes up again before going down into the gorge proper and as we head down we start to see lots of butterflies.

The last section is a rocky scramble leading to a very narrow shelf above the river from which you can swim. When we arrive there are 3 others already there.

We remove our boots and I scramble to put my feet in and Rob gets ready for a dip.

The views down the Gorge are amazing, we see people kayaking and I spot a turtle. It’s an amazingly beautiful spot. Well worth the hard walk to get here.

We find out the next day on our dinner cruise that this part of the Gorge is the deepest at 35metres and gets deeper each wet season due to a large whirlpool that develops here, causing the rocks to swirl and gouge the bottom further. We also find out this is a popular area for fish and crocs due to the depth!

We spend about an hour before heading back. The day only gets hotter so it’s a tough walk back and we refill our water bottles several times at available rainwater tanks along the way! Thank you very much.

We deviate onto the Jadalep loop so that we can visit the Baruwei lookout extending the walk by about 2km to 14km.

It was a tough walk but worth it!

Friday 26 July 2024

Temperature: 18 – 33, hot, humid slightly overcast.

Edith Falls & Katherine Gorge Dinner Cruise

Today we are doing two side trips. The first is a hike and swim at Edith Falls. Still in Nitmiluk National Park but 80 kilometres North of Katherine.

We set off around 8.30am, drive 60km North then turn right at the sign for Edith Falls and drive another 20km’s to arrive around 9:30. The National Park has a car park, kiosk and toilet.

The walk is a 3.9km circuit and we decide to walk anticlockwise. The walk has an elevation of 100m and the first part takes us past the bottom waterhole with a waterfall.

So spectacular!

The track then curves around to the left and becomes a rocky switchback straight up, followed by a scrambled rocky track for about 2km’s. There are very obvious signs of recent fire and I wonder if it’s management fire or from the NT fire last year? It’s hot today and I quickly become parched amongst the dry and blackened landscape.

We detour to Bermang Lookout for our first view of the upper pool. From here the waterfall is directly beneath us.

Another 500 metres of rock scramble which only gets worse and I begin to wonder how they graded this a moderate track? Reward looms though, as after a final rock scramble down we arrive.

There is a deep pool to swim across and we find a path across rocks to the falls, then a swim past them and around a pile of rock in the middle with a slight current that takes you over some slippery rocks and back around to the main pool! WOW!

After a truly delightful swim we reluctantly dry off and put the boots back on for the walk back. Highly recommend you visit Edith Falls if you are in the NT. There is a camp so if you go to Darwin be sure to deviate that 20km’s off the highway. You won’t regret it.

On the way back on the outskirts of Katherine we see a flock of red tailed black cockatoo’s. Always a favourite.

Once back at the van we hop into some jobs, Rob maintenance on the water hose and starting to repair our step which has sheared away and I on food prep for the border crossing.

Katherine Gorge Dinner Cruise

After getting back to the van we both hop into some chores, Rob on van maintenance and I on food prep. I make a big batch of ratatouille, roast two sweet potato and some garlic and bake some sourdough crackers. It’s hot work so getting ready and showering for our dinner cruise tonight is welcome. We are both looking forward to the cruise very much.

The cruise is full, about 40 people I calculate and goes for about 3.5 hours and we have two boat changes ahead as we make our way up the gorge.

We set off and within minutes our pilot tells us to look towards the bank! There’s a freshie! A freshwater crocodile!

And on the opposite bank is a trap for a saltie! A saltwater crocodile… he assures as there aren’t any but there was last April. Apparently they investigate for six weeks after every wet season before opening (parts) of the Gorge for swimming.

The Katherine Gorge is stunning and everyone on board is mesmerized with its beauty and the witty commentary from our pilot.

And then there’s another freshie!

We continue up the Gorge to our first stop, where we need to disembark and walk up the Gorge to the next boat. As the dry season progresses the water level in the Gorge drops and the Gorge is separated into sections.

We disembark and there is rock art and towering cliffs to admire and a beautiful walk up the Gorge. The colours are amazing.

As we walk we chat to other guests, a young couple from France, an older couple from Germany and fellow Aussies too. We come to a wide plateau of rock that stretches out into the middle of the Gorge and it’s a great spot for photos.

Our second boat takes us up past Jedda’s rock and our pilot tells how the stone here is so old; 65 million year, that it contains no record of life, no fossils, nada.

The sun is starting to sink as we turn into the second Gorge and the colours and reflections are just so lovely.

We come to the third Gorge, our Butterfly Gorge from our walk the day before. You can see the ledge on the bottom right.

From here we turn back and retrace our steps. When we swaps boats the second time, it’s set for dinner and we enjoy a lovely three course dinner of local delicacies including crocodile, barramundi, eye fillet and mud cake for dessert with flavour’s of the top end, including Wattle Seed, Kakadu Plum and Lemon Myrtle.

Our dinner companions Matt and Amanda from Victoria are wonderful company and it is a very enjoyable evening.

Next stop Kununurra WA.

Take care, stay safe and look after one another.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Barkly Homestead Qld to Mataranka NT

Dates: Thursday 18 July – Monday 22 July 2024

Locations: Frewina Wetlands, Rockhampton Downs, Three Ways, Tennant Creek, Attack Creek, WWII Gorrie Airfield, Mataranka.

Regions: Barkly Tableland NT

Temperatures: 5 – 25

Thursday 18 July 2024

Barkly Homestead to Tennant Creek 212 km’s and 72 to Attack Creek

Total trip kilometres 2760

Temperature: 5 – 20 sunny, windy

We pass Frewina wetlands that stretch out from both sides of the highway and there are birds everywhere.

We pass Rockhampton Downs Station 10:25am (no pic) and there is evidence of fire on both sides of the highway at different times

About 60 km’s from Three Ways and the Stuart Highway we are constantly slowed to 60km/hr and we experience big sections of flood damaged road; from the NT flood earlier this year, and crews working on it so it’s a slow section.

We turn left at the Stuart Highway junction and head down to Tennant Creek, 24km’s for a bit of nostalgia.

We pass the Historical Telegraph Homestead and the Mini Pebbles turn but continue on. At Lake Mary Ann we turn so I can revisit. I have a picture of me under the sign on the highway, taken in 1988 and it was Mary Ann Dam in those days.

The town feels familiar but changed of course after 37 years. We drive around as I try to hunt out past residencies but it’s too long ago. I can’t even remember which streets!

In the way back we stop at Three Ways, still on my nostalgic tour. There is a fellow tiling and a few people drinking. I remember the pool table and the juke box but I think the layout has changed.

We continue on and camp at Attack Creek 72km’s from Tennant Creek.

We both relax for an hour before preparing dinner, Steak, Corn on the cob and Broccolini done on the Ziggy and I bake my current loaf after its second proofing.

Friday 19 July 2024

Attack Creek to WWII Gorrie Airfield 431 km’s

Total Trip Km’s 3184

Temperature 7 – 25 degrees sunny

After a busy few days we agree to a slower start today and set off around 10am. I’m still unwell. I thought my cold was lifting yesterday afternoon but feel heavy with it this morning.

Found these interesting prints around the van… bird or something else?

We are heading to a camp near Mataranka called WWII Gorrie Camp today.

Nearly as soon as we set off the landscape begins to green and every creek has water. Morphett Creek is absolutely full of birds and pelicans but I miss getting a photo. Oh well, then we see an escarpment.

Major roadworks just before Renner Springs slow us down a little.

We see Lake Woods Conservation Covenant off in the distance on the left as we approach Elliott. A large body of water.

We arrive Elliott and refuel, stretch our legs with a quick break and continue North. We pass Newcastle Waters rest area on a rise not long after with glimpses of a wetland in the distance to the right.

Continuing on we stop at the Sir Charles Todd Memorial and read about the Frew Ponds overland Telegraph Line. The last connecting piece joining North and South is about 4km West. The Telegraph, made possible by John Douall’s 1862 exploration was conceived by Charles Todd and constructed over 3 years connecting North and South and making communication that once took months by land and sea between Australia and Great Britain possible within minutes.

This is where we notice dragonflies, they are everywhere and as we travel we continue to see them for miles. The landscape continues to change. We now have tall trees, Eucalyptus and Wattle, russet grasses and pink button grass. And cattle on the highway!

We pass Larrimah Springs and pull into see the Historic Hotel and the Pink Panther.and our camp is just 10 km’s away.

A lovely quiet spot off the highway and another terrific sunset.

Lamb Shanks in Red wine and Cauliflower Mash for dinner.

Saturday 20 July 2024

WWII Gorrie Airfield to Bitter Springs, Mataranka NT 65 Km’s

Total trip km’s 3251

Temperatures 7 – 27 degrees

My cold is starting to lift so we enjoy a lovely morning walk up the airstrip and back. We see lots of little birds flitting about and about 8 kangaroos

On the way back a young man, camping with 3 others; two couples from France as it turns out, stops us asking for advice on his tyre. We take a look and it’s showing signs of wear with a bit of balding, damage from Kakadu trails he thinks but he is also very loaded up in the back and has a rooftop camper. He wants to know if it will make it to Cairns?

It’s a good question. Maybe? If he takes it easier and reduces the tyre pressure a bit.? We check he has a spare and the other tyres. The other back one is showing wear too. We talk about the risk of blowout and suggest Mt Isa might be better to get them changed over. Talk turns to travel, they are all on working visa’s, have done their obligatory 88 farm days in WA near Kununurra and are now traveling across to and then down the East Coast. We wish them a safe journey and I hope the tyre holds for them until they can get it fixed.

We set down and as we are about to head off an identical Isuzu drives in towing a van. Margaret and David are from Sale, Victoria. They are also off to Bitter Springs tomorrow so we plan to catch up.

We head off and it’s a short drive to Mataranka. The day is warming up and we pass some large termite mounds and then wetlands.

As soon as we park up we change and head down to the springs, a short walk away about 500m. When we arrive at the viewing platform a fellow mention he’s just seen a crocodile! He is rattled and gotten his children out of the water. There are signs advising there are fresh water crocodile’s in the area but we are fairly confident they wouldn’t let people swim if there was much risk.

The water is a gorgeous turquoise colour and beautifully warm, about 34 degrees. We really enjoy a leisurely circuit on our pool noodles letting the current take us.

There are quite a few people here. I’ve managed to avoid most in the photos, thankfully.

The afternoon is taken up with some washing and then we go for a late afternoon walk back to the springs. I’m hoping to take a picture of, or even see an Azure Kingfisher.

When we arrive a fellow with a tripod shows me a photo of a freshwater crocodile he’s just taken!

It’s a decent size and he’s sure it’s still about. We wait for a while at the lookout but don’t see anything and then follow the spring around. It’s quiet and the colours of the trees and the water are amazing but no Kingfisher’s appear. Oh well!

On the way back the fellow says we’ve missed the croc moving down the spring and he points to where he thinks he is. Top right of my photo.

An exciting day. We finish with an early dinner of leftover lamb shanks and an early night.

Sunday 21 July 2024

Bitter Springs.

Temp 7-23, cool overnight, sunny day.

Today we are heading to Mataranka homestead and the springs there followed by a walk. This is the spring I remember visiting during the time I lived in the NT in the late 1980’s.

It is a more formal pool now with concrete and fiberglass enclosing the pool with rocks. We enjoy a lovely dip.

The one I remember was more like bitter springs with natural edges but round and not very big. After our swim we start our walk and we find a spring that fits my memory but no swimming allowed. It looks like there is a big thermal release happening so maybe that is why?

Continuing our walk we trek 1.2km’s through the tropical forest then out into arid bushland parallel to the Roper River and Stevie’s hole. No swimming her due to crocodile activity and currents.

On the way back I get a fair picture of a whistling kite. Our constant companion in the skies up here.

Monday 22 July 2024

Temperature: 12 -23, sunny

Today we are doing the Mataranka Falls hike, about 10km’s. My cold is continuing to improving so I’m hopeful of a good walk. The trail begins about 24 km’s from Mataranka near a campground and there are other trails nearby. The trail starts with a Crocodile safety sign which is ironic in a way because some of the walk is right on the waters edge – see first dot point on sign!!!

The track starts with a creek crossing then meanders through the bush cutting to and away from the Roper River.

It’s a lovely sunny morning and the track is fairly easy to walk with tantalizing glimpses of the river and its creeks.

As the track meanders it changes from rock and packed clay to large sections of sand. I start looking for tracks and soon enough come across a section with lots of snake tracks!

I’m just thinking to myself that these look recent, when I look to my left and I’m just walking past a snake! I continue moving away and then turn at a safe distance and take a couple of pictures. What a beauty!

Later I try to identify. I think it’s a black whip snake but missed seeing his tail which is red on this Venomous NT snake, so I’m not 100% sure?

We see so many snakes while hiking, I no longer get wobbly with adrenaline but rather excited and we both have a very healthy respect for them and our safety.

The next section of the walk takes us along cliffs and becomes tropical.

We reach the end of the walk and the falls are actually more like rapids, the area is very tropical and again we are very close to the water!

We head back and on the way see our version of the famous Wanaka Tree in NZ. A tree growing in the middle of water!

I also see more tracks in the sand… maybe this one is a Goanna?

When we arrive back at the park I see a big Brahman cow who obviously is owned by the park. We’ve seen lots of these up here.

We are off to Katherine tomorrow.

Stay safe and take care of each other.

Lots of love, Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Longreach, QLD to Barkly Homestead, NT

Dates: Saturday 13 July – Wednesday 17 July 2024

Locations: Longreach, Winton, Kynuna, Cloncurry, Mary Kathleen

Regions: Outback Qld, Barkly Tableland NT

Temperature: 7 – 25 degrees

Longreach to Winton

Saturday 13 July 2024, 180 kilometres

Total trip kilometres 1460

Temp: 7 – 23 cool morning, sunny

We are heading to Winton today but first up we attend to a bit of washing and cleaning in the van and getting it set to go. We keep a big 20 litre bucket under the van for waste water drips and while here we’ve had the waste water pipe out also and as Rob goes to pack it all away he finds 3 dead rats, drowned in the bucket!

Our last post mentioned the rat problem in the Outback at present and this is definitely one of the not so nice sides to camping. We think they crawled up the pipe and either fell or jumped in and then couldn’t get out.

After setting the van we head into town as the CWA have showers for a donation and there’s also a market from 9 – 12pm.

We meet Gwen at the CWA, she is 90 and volunteers 1 day a week to different aspects of the CWA. Today she’s looking after the showers and she has made scones.

We enjoy a quick shower then spend about half an hour enjoying Gwen’s company, her scones with jam and cream and a cup of tea. Gwen tells about her time as president, traveling the Longreach district and all about the Lake Dunn Sculpture trail. The Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail is a 200 kilometre circuit that loops between Aramac, Lake Dunn and Jericho. Along its route you’ll find 40 sculptural installations showcasing Outback elements and life, from emu families to jackaroos. Not for us this trip but something to consider if your headed out this way. Sounds awesome!

We head back to the van and are on the road by about 11am.

We arrive Winton mid afternoon and after setting up at our camp, meet our neighbouring travellers who advise there are rats here too unfortunately, more on that later…

We then head into town to see the Opal Festival. Unfortunately though we are latecomers and most of the stall holders have packed up. One fellow shows me a few samples of Boulder Opal though and they are entrancing. The red, green, gold and blue colours dance as if alive amidst the stone and I briefly wish I was in the market.

We then head out to the musical fence, a whimsical collection of metal objects and a fence that can be used to make music if you’re talented enough. We do have a go but neither of us strikes a chord. Nearby is a nod to the QANTAS history.

Back into town and we walk the Main Street and it’s charming with its beautiful old pubs and the Waltzing Matilda museum with the statue of Banjo Paterson out front. Across the road there is another statue of the swagman from his most famous poem, written not very far from Winton.

We visit Arno’s wall with its collection of everything engineering and then visit the Australian Hotel for Happy Hour and are lucky enough to catch bush poet Gregory North right before he recites that most famous poem – The Man from Snowy River and other famous works by Banjo Paterson including the story of the writing of Waltzing Matilda.

We return to the van just in time for another gorgeous sunset and after dinner we catch up with our neighbours Cheryl and Doug for a drink around their campfire.

Winton Sunday 14 July 2024

Temp 7 – 23 cool morning, sunny

Age of Dinosaurs Winton

Rob had booked our Age of Dinosaurs tour for 10:30 so we leave the van around 9:30 as it’s 24 kilometre’s from Winton back towards Longreach and we also camped about 5 kilometres out of Winton on the Jundah road.

The age of dinosaurs site is in the Blandenburg National park high up on an escarpment. After the turn off the A2 highway we see a flock of whistling kites and then two Wedgetail eagles tussling over some small prey. Maybe a rat!

The Age of Dinosaurs is a great place to visit. Everything from the lab; didn’t know you can volunteer and get training to work on dinosaur bones, to the collection room and March of the Titanosaurs it is a must see.

On the way back we see a flock of emus and we take a picture of the Winton sign, there is a bolt behind the “I” which allows you to replace the I. Thought that was very cool and fun too.

Monday 15 July 2024

Winton to Cloncurry 440 km’s

Total Km’s 1938 including side trips.

Mary Kathleen (West of Cloncurry) to Mt Isa 65 km then on to Camooweal 180km

Temp 7 – 22, cool morning, sunny

Pass Ayrshire Creek, a series of plateaus.

100km’s from Winton we see a tabby cat trying to cross the road and then a while later I see a black cat off to the side of the road with a huge monitor lizard less than a metre away. It’s a strange sight and I wonder if one is stalking the other? I also see another Australian Bustard standing alone in the grass.

We stop at Kynuna Roadhouse for a break around lunch and munch on sandwiches while watching four Brolgas casually strolling around.

Continuing on the highway we see several large flocks of kites, wheeling and circling on thermals above the highway usually over fresh road kill.

We pass through McKinnon and the Walkabout Creek Hotel, made famous by the movie “Crocodile Dundee”

Our camp for the night is at Mary Kathleen an abandoned and dismantled town 60 km South of Mt Isa, West of Cloncurry.

Tuesday 15 July 2024

Total trip km’s 2191

Temp 5 to 20 sunny

We drive into Mt Isa, 60km’s enjoying the hilly scenery on the way in.

We shop for groceries at the local Coles, visit the pharmacy and then have a pub lunch at the Mt Isa Hotel. Rob has a steak and I have a Korean poke bowl. The meals are very nice.

We then walk back through the town then visit the Caravan dump point and fill the water tanks.

We continue on, thinking to either stop at a WWII camp site 60kms out of Mt Isa or further on at Camooweal. 180km’s away.

The landscape begins to resemble an ocean of dry tufted grasses moving with the wind and it feels a bit like being ship in an inland sea. Small trees dot the horizon which shimmers in the afternoon sun.

The WWII memorial mentions the building of the Barkley Highway; previously just a dirt road, during WWII as part of the defensive effort to protect Northern Australia. The camp is just off the highway and already well occupied. It’s just before 3pm so we decide to continue on.

We arrive Camooweal around 5pm and camp literally on the Georgina River creek-bed. It’s a beautiful spot with lots of birds either side of the bridge resting on the riverbanks and the sunset is amazing.

I make a quick spiced pumpkin soup for our dinner and I relax in bed enjoying the Masterchef finale (no spoilers here) while Rob reads in frustration about the AFL Tribunal findings against Charlie Cameron. The consensus online is that it’s a rubbish decision and once again very Melbourne Centric!

The cold I started a few days ago is gaining momentum so it’s an early night.

Wednesday 16 July 2024

Camooweal to Barkly Homestead NT 260 km’s

Total trip km’s 2455

Temperature: 5 – 20, very cool start, sunny and a stiff breeze

Locations: Camooweal, Avon Downs, Soudan, Barkly Homestead

Regions: Outback Qld, Barkly Tableand NT

After starting a loaf and making some discard sourdough cracker dough to bake later we set down and head off. My head cold is now raging and I have a roaring head and face ache which is a bit disappointing as it’s the SOO (State of Origin) decider tonight, our NRL ( National Rugby League) annual contest between NSW and QLD.

We set off and about 30km’s down the Barkly Highway we cross into the NT.

Over the border the landscape on both sides of the highway flattens to a sea of never ending sea of spinifex.

Another 80km’s on we pass Avon Downs station on the left and the Avon Police station on the right. There is no fuel or service here so no reason to stop.

The rest area just before the station has the stories of Thomas Guthrie’s establishment in 1882 and one of the longest sheep droving routes in Australia from Donald, Victoria to Avon downs, Northern Territory, 16 months and 3500 kilometres starting with 11,000 sheep and arriving with 4000! There’s more on this driving at the Stockman’s Hall of fame.

Another 60 or so km’s we pass Soudan Station and see Stockman preparing cattle for transport. We’ve seen many of these road trains with four, sometimes five carriages.

Next up and closer to Barkly Homestead we pass a wetland. Full of birdlife and the landscape is now peppered with Termite mounds. The are everywhere! Some as large as cars.

We arrive Barkly Homestead about 1:30 (1:00 NT time) and after set down we both shower which perks me up no end. Theres’s just something so relaxing; for me anyway, about having my head under water.

My cold is raging though so after lunch and a load of washing. I rest for a bit. We then go to happy hour and I catch up on the phone with my daughter Carly, always a treat. Then it’s another rest before a late dinner and SOO Final.

The mood is festive and there are many people dress in Blue and Maroon. About equal which I’m very pleased about. I set up chats with fellow Blues supporters Grant in Qld and Heather in NSW and Rob does the same with fellow Qldr Michael and his daughter Kat. The rivalry and banter is fun.

The game is a cracker with great defense from both sides and only a penalty goal to Qld right before the end of the first half. There’s a bit of biff and Rob I playfully argue about which side started it. Qld of course haha!

We enjoy our meal during half time, a Barkly burger for Rob and Calamari and salad with chips for me.

The second half continues to be a tussle but Qld starts to show signs of fatigue and NSW takes the lead with a try and then another with a conversion. NSW win the match hurrah!

We finish the night chatting to two NSW supporters sitting behind us and then talk turns to travel plans.

All in all a great night and the Barkly Homestead is a great place to visit if you’re travelling the great Outback. Be sure not to miss it. I have many memories of visits here when I lived at Tennant Creek during the late 80’s so it’s great to see that it’s bigger, better and thriving.

On to Tennant Creek tomorrow. Should be a blast from the past. Love to all. Stay safe and warm!

Maryann and Rob

Aussie Lap – Coominya to Longreach Qld

Dates: Monday 8 July to Friday 13 July 2024

Locations: Dalby, Charleville, Barcaldine, Longreach

Regions: Darling Downs South West, Central and Northwest.

Temperature: 7 – 26 degrees

Trip A on the odometer is set to zero in the Isuzu. We have lightened the van load and checked everything in preparation for the journey ahead.

In the next two weeks we will be crossing regional and outback Queensland, diagonally almost, as we head for Mt Isa via Charleville and Longreach.

Monday 8 Jul 2024

Comminya to Muckadilla 470kms

Temp 7 – 21 degrees currently 17 degrees and sunny with showers earlier.

Two Roos practice boxing in the nearby paddock in the early morning light as we prepare to head off

The day warm’s and the farms around Coominya look moist and brown with new crops springing up a verdant green against the rich black soil, moist from recent rain. I’m sure the farmers will be grateful of the recent winter rains.

We travel West through Dalby, Chinchilla and Miles. As we pass through Miles we see the big Watermelon!

West of Miles we leave the Western Downs region and enter Maranoa region with a welcome sign to Outback Queensland.

A longish day on the road with stops at Dalby, Chinchilla, Miles and Roma.

We park up at the Muckadilla camp; west of Roma with toilets and hot showers for a donation.

Tuesday 9 July

Muckadilla to Augathella, 330 kms, Total trip kms – 800.

Temp 9 – 21, rainy then sunny then overcast.

Heavy rain overnight and a damp morning dawns. It’s showering so after morning stretches, coffee and breakfast and that hot shower we were looking forward to, we set to and are on the road by 8:30am. Good thing too as not long after the rain starts in ernest. Great to see the Outback getting a big drink.

We pass through Mitchell and on towards Charleville and the rain clouds break up and the day clears to sunshine which was fortunate as we planned to do the Riverwalk on the Warrego River.

We park in Alfred street, walk the Main Street and then follow signs for the Riverwalk. A lovely walk to stretch the legs and see the river and then we loop back to the van. About 3kms.

Homemade salad rolls for lunch and we continue on to Augathella, our stop for the night. A great camp with near new toilet and shower facilities for a $10 donation per night and you can camp here for up to 8 nights!

Wednesday 10 Jul 2024

Augathella to Barcaldine 330 kms

Total trip kms – 1130.

Temp 2.5 – 26 degrees

It’s a very chilly start but sunny and by 7:30 the sun is warm.

I set a loaf and do my stretches while Rob’s out for a run. We then have coffee and breakfast before heading to the showers. I really like rest stops with toilets and showers I must say, very civilized and a habit I would like to continue…

We see lots of vans; in fact we’ve seen more vans these past few days than we have previously. A lot of them have red dirt so probably coming from “The Big Red Bash” held out at Birdsville last week. An annual event on the Outback calendar, just like Boulia camel races, Ilfracombe horse races and Cloncurry rodeo scheduled this weekend. They had rain so it turned into “The Big Muddy bash” apparently and there are also a lot of vans going North like us. Every camp spot has been quite full too.

The land stretches out as we enter “Big Sky country” and there are a few puffy clouds. We start to see lots of Kites, most would be the Whistling Kite but perhaps a few Black Kites too.

We pass through Tambo, famous for the “Tambo Teddy” My oldest daughter Riley received one of them as a baby from a close friend, Margaret who was born in Winton which is NW of here past Longreach.

We arrive Blackall and visit the famous “Black Stump” which has burnt down but there are two replica’s along with the story. I also spy another in the Main Street as we take a passing walk.

Continuing on to Barcaldine the day starts to warm up. We arrive around 3:30 and the temp is 26 degrees. Positively Balmy!

Before heading to our free camp; no shower at this one, we visit the “Tree of Knowledge” in the centre of Barcaldine. So named for the reputed birthplace of the Labor Party!

Barcaldine has lots of interesting art along the Main Street and some Scottish history too. The name, originally Bar Call Din, was named after Barcaldine castle in Argyle by the Cameron Family and derived from Barr a challtuin or Hazel Knoll in Gaelic.

We didn’t go back to see the tree at night but apparently it’s stunning when all lit up.

Thursday 11 July

Barcaldine to Longreach 110kms

Total trip kilometres 1310

Stop at Ilfracombe and the Wellshot hotel. A Charming hotel with loads of character, from hundreds of old hats on the ceiling, including one of Lee Kernagan’s, to the barstools! (see photos) .

A great spot to stop and stretch the legs and take in the town’s rich history with many displays on the history of the town, wool scouring, ANZACS, farming equipment and old vehicles all freely available to explore along the highway.

Just outside Ilfracombe we see three of the strangest birds standing in the grass. At first glance, thought they were baby emus but the colouring and proportions were wrong. Later identified as the Australian Bustard. Photo not mine and courtesy of Australian Birdlife.org and taken by Andrew Brooks. Such an unusual looking bird and I’ve never seen one before so very cool.

Longreach Apex Park camp is busy with vans when arrive but we find a space and set down.

We were fortunate to find a potable water tap behind the van so I spend the afternoon washing, enjoying the local wildlife; brolgas no less, and meeting other campers like Bob and his pet cockatoo Laurie.

Bob then tells us about the rats! Apparently the park has a bit of a problem and they’ve taken out four cars, just in the last few days. The little buggers get into the engines at night where it’s warm and destroy wiring and circuitry. The trick is to keep the bonnet up so the area cools and to keep a light on. Later our neighbour’s, a lovely couple; Sheryl and John from Sale in Victoria, tell us the same thing, so we follow the advice.

The sunset over the Thompson is full of colour and accompanied by a local country artist entertaining guests at the caravan park on the other side of the river. From afar he sounds a bit like slim dusty with his crooning country melodies.

Later I rest and shape my dough and pop it in the fridge for its bulk prove overnight and it’s a simple pesto pasta meal for dinner.

The park has about 18 roosters roaming around, some of which are very large and yes they started crowing very early. I wonder who put them there?

Friday 12 July 2024

Temp 12 – 26 cool morning, sunny.

Today, after more washing; having taken advantage of the available water and with the van batteries keeping up from all the lovely sunshine, we head into town for a walk, a quick bite and then our allotted tour of the Stockman’s Hall of Fame.

Longreach is a thriving, bustling town of about 3,750 residents but likely servicing many more than that including graziers in the area. Tourists, van’s, campers and Winnebago’s are everywhere.

The town’s main Street, Eagle Street’s shops are all operating and the town is obviously well cared for.

Fun fact! All the town’s streets are named for birds. There’s Duck, Brolga, Emu, Wren and many more including Bustard!

The Stockman’s Hall of fame is well worth a visit and I’m sorry we missed the live part (not available on Fridays). The displays and history are thoughtful and informative. I continue to be amazed with the courage, strength and tenacity of our forebears. We may not have the buildings that are hundreds of years old, as the European countries have in abundance, but as we explore this wide brown country of ours I am humbled by the stories….

Imagine leaving the East Coast in a sulky (small horse drawn carriage) with a pair of horses and two young children. Imagine surviving on nothing but tea, damper and treacle for months. Imagine travelling into the unknown outback to a small parcel of land, starting from scratch. With only that which you had transported! My mind boggles.

A brilliant visit full of stories, art and artifacts. Very enjoyable.

The day finishes with another beautiful sunset and we are off to Winton tomorrow.

Hope you are all well. Stay safe and take care.

Cheers, Maryann and Rob

Aussie Lap – Mount Coolum Housesit

Location: Mount Coolum, Qld

Region: Sunshine Coast

Dates: 4 June – 2 July 2024

Temperatures: 8 – 23 degrees

Hello lovely people, I hope this finds you all well and thriving!

I’m writing from our Housesit House in beautiful Mount Coolum on the Qld Sunshine Coast and pondering how time flies. It seems only days; not weeks ago, that we arrived and tomorrow we leave here.

Before we came to the Sunny Coast our first week in Qld was in Coominya, where we shared a few wonderful catch-ups with family and friends and we’ve had a couple up here at Mount Coolum too. It’s been wonderful to see everyone after being away this past 12 months.

You may have noticed I’m very behind with the blog. This is due to having struck an internet access issue back in April whilst in Victoria due to my VPN security program and it took weeks to sort out.

Never fear though, I’m planning to catch up a few posts over the next week before we hit the road again on the 8th July and will continue to post so more to come.

When we set off again, we have a relatively quick 5 week trip planned across to WA as we have a date with the horizontal falls off of the WA coast at Derby in mid August.

Our plan is to head West then North in Qld, making our way to Charleville, Longreach and then Mt Isa. Crossing into the NT at Three Ways we will then head North to Katherine then West into WA to Kununurra and across to Derby via the Gibb River track, hopefully spending a couple of weeks exploring the Gibb River area, weather & track conditions permitting of course as there is about 600km of gravel road.

All up about 4300 kilometres!

It’s been a lovely relaxing four weeks here at Mount Coolum looking after little Mogwai, a very cute Shih Tzu.

It’s such a great lifestyle, a quiet community and kilometer’s of quiet beach either way. Lots of doggies too which is nice.

Here’s a pictorial of our days…

The days have been made up of slow walks with Mogs on the pathways and on the beach. Lots of bike rides, reading, writing and lovely evenings listening to the waves lulling us to sleep. Thank you to Kathy and Gary for allowing us to housesit and look after their little dog Mogwai.

Rob has also been very busy spending quality time and helping his daughter with some bigger jobs on her property at Coominya. He is a wonderful dad!

If you’re in Qld I’m sure you’ve been enjoying the sunny winter weather. May and June have long been my favourite months of the year here.

Just one more thing before I go.

Go the Blues! Best of luck for the decider on the 17th July. Rob would also add Go the Maroons! Always a fun contest in our house.

Love to all. Stay safe, be kind and look after yourselves. xx