Location: Kununurra, Mitchell Falls , Wyndham, Lake Argyll, The Bungle Bungles

Region: Kimberley NT

Dates: 29 July – 31 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34

Monday 29 July 2024

After such a hectic day yesterday with our Whistle stop tour of Wyndham, Monday starts a wee bit slower. Rob starts working on the van step which has sheared off, so he’s off to the hardware for brackets and bolts to try and repair while I catch up on some blog posts. It’s lovely and warm and there is a breeze from Lake Kununurra and with a cup of tea in hand what more could you ask for.

In the afternoon we go and visit Hoocheys so that Rob can do a rum tasting. It’s the oldest “legal” distillery in WA. He deserves a fun afternoon after all his hard work on the step this morning, which is now back in working order. What a handy man he is.

After I drive us back from the distillery, we take a nice relaxing walk around the park, visiting the avery to see the Gouldian Finches: such colourful little birds, and the parks Boab tree before heading to the waterfront. We finish the day with a relaxing meal and some TV

Tuesday 30 July 2024

Mitchell Falls Coastal Adventure

Temperatures: 18 – 32

We spend the morning with me cleaning the inside of the van and washing and Rob checking every screw in the van in preparation for The Gibb, before we get ready for the first of our Tours.

We are picked up and driven to the airport at 11:15am and after being weighed and checked in our pilot James collects us and takes us to the plane. There is just us two and a third, a lady named Cathy from NZ and we are flying in a four seat Cessna 210N.

The route takes us across Kununurra and its farmlands then straight across country to Ngamoowalem Conservation park towards Durack and then Drysdale River National Park.

We see the road to Kalamburu off The Gibb River road and some local seasonal fire management before we arrive at Mitchell falls which we circle in a figure 8 several times before landing on nearby Mitchell plateau. The falls are a sight to behold.

Apparently you can swim in the upper pool of the falls but not the bottom due to salties.

We have a 30 minute break while the pilot refuels and some light refreshments; mango cake and juice while we wait. Cathy our NZ guest has been air sick all the way out unfortunately so she’s not feeling great.

We take off again on the next leg, up and around the Kimberley coastline. The scenery is amazing and this is the absolute best way to see the vast area of the Kimberley.

We pass over the Lawley River National Park and see all the creeks shooting off. It reminds me of a brain!

Next we fly over North Kimberley Marine Park and along the coast and to the mouth of the Drysdale River.

As we start to turn South East towards Kununurra we pass over King George Falls, not really flowing at this time of year but still spectacular with the River leading up into the gorge to the falls! So beautiful and there is a yacht parked just under the falls. Wow!

Next we fly along the coastline towards Berkeley River lodge, the most Northern remote resort, across an area known as Oombulgurri. The pilot says we may see sharks, rays, turtles or crocs and he is flying low but I can’t pick anything out. The coastline is stunning however and I take way too many pictures.

From here we fly across Lacrosse Island and then into the Cambridge Gulf passing over Adolphus Island and Wyndham before heading back to Kununurra.

We swoop back into Kununurra crossing the Ord one more time. Poor Cathy has unfortunately been sick the whole way so I quickly exchange details with her so I can send her some of my photos.

Rob and I had a wonderful time. A little bumpy over the thermals at times but wow her what a thrilling afternoon.

Wednesday 31 July 2024

Bungle Bungle Tour

Big day today. We are out for day being collected at 8:15 for our flight South over lake Argyle and to the Bungle Bungles where we will hop on a bus tour for the day including a hike into the Bungles!

We are in a bigger plane; a Cessna Caravan this time, with 13 guests in total and our pilot is Dan. Rob and I get the bench seat right at the back so have lots of leg room.

Our flight path today takes the opposite of yesterday and we soon fly over Kimberleyland Caravan park where we are staying; see if you can find the wee beastie in the photo, before following the Ord or Lake Kununurra as it’s known at this stage because it is dammed at both ends and holds a continuous level of water; to one centimeter. We then cross over farmland, including of all things Cotton!

Kununurra means black soil by the way. And there is so much water out here it’s mind boggling.

We are in a bigger plane and we soon jump over a range and see the amazing Lake Argyle stretching before us. 67km long one way and 10km across the other, it holds 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour, around 10,763 gigalitres and due to this is classified as an inland sea with the same maritime regulations!

We soon cross over the amazing wave like formations of the Osborne Ranges. An absolute marvel and I see a circular area at the end and I wonder if maybe they are due to a long ago meteor hitting the earth?

Our pilot informs us that we have cross into Purnululu National Park (pronounced Burnululu)and that the Bungle Bungles are just ahead and soon enough there they are. A breathtaking sight in their unusualness.

Interestingly they were only discovered in 1982 by two film makers making a documentary about outback WA. They heard word of some unusual rocks to be seen so hired chopper pilots to take them there. These formations are unusual as they are sandstone underneath and the crusted striating colours come from rust and Cyanobacteria which creates the green in the wet and black in the dry. The crust is very thin and takes years to develop so they are quite delicate and they are white underneath.

In the late 80’s the Bungle Bungles along with Shark Bay in WA were listed under UNESCO. Interesting that the Bungle Bungles and the Stromatolites found in Shark Bay are both formed from Cyanobacteria.

After circling around the Bungle Bungles for a bit we land, then having morning tea; butter cakes, tea and coffee, before jumping on our bus. Our tour guides Mardi and Nigel will look after us today.

The bus ride is about 25 minutes and we stop for photo opportunities a couple of time before arriving at The Domes where we will do a walk to Cathedral Gorge.

We set off, stopping periodically as Mardi talks about the landscape.

As we walk I smell a burnt caramel smell and soon after Mardi mentions it and explains it’s the sticky sap from the spinifex grass growing everywhere. The sap has medicinal properties and can be used to close wounds and provides antibacterial properties that promote healing.

As we head into Cathedral Gorge, Mardi pulls us off onto a ledge and in a hushed voice quietly tells us this is a place of initiation and then points up and we see some rock art.

It about 10degrees cooler in the cathedral and you can see why it’s so named with the cavernous ceiling arching above. The pool is sacred and must not be stepped in or drank from according to cultural lore from the Djaru and Gija tribes that use these lands.

Rob and I walk around the pool to the rocks at the back for our lunch break.

It’s very peaceful and a good place for quiet reflection as we enjoy our meal.

After lunch we make our way out of the cool of the cathedral and back into the Gorge, heading back the way we came. On the bus we head back to Bellburn airstrip to drop four people off for helicopter flights before we make our way to Savannah lodge for afternoon tea of fruit and cake.

Once back at Bellburn we’re herded back onto the plane and are soon in the air. Our return flight takes us over the Northern part of the Bungles and Pickaninny Gorge. A grade 6 multi day hike.

We then fly over the Osborne ranges again and then the now defunct Argyle Diamond mine.

As we head into Kununurra the pilot swoops around to land over the Ord River and I take the photo below and then as I look down I swear I see a big crocodile in the water!!!

All in all it’s been a fascinating few days and a privilege to see so much of this unique part of the world.

A big thank you to my darling Rob whose idea it was that we take these tours.

Tomorrow we leave Kununurra and head to Mt Barnett via the Gibb River Road. our off road adventure begins.

Take care, stay safe and love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx