Aussie Lap – Shark Bay, & Shell Beach to Geraldton

September 30, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Shell Beach, Denham

Regions: Gascoyne, Mid West

Dates: 16 – 21 September 2024

Temperature: 16 – 33 degrees,

Monday 16 September 2024

Starting km’s: 10394

A couple of relatively quiet weeks coming up for us as we meander South with the next big thing in the calendar the AFL semi’s then Grand final. Both Rob and I are hoping our teams, Brisbane Lions and Sydney Swans prevail.

We leave Edgadee around 9:30am q and at 10:50am we pass the 36th parallel circle of latitude and leave the North West.

The country side is still salty scrub with few variations. Around 12:00pm we pass the Overland Roadhouse at the turn off to Shark Bay.

We visited Shark Bay and Monkey Mia in September 2023; a week later in the month than today. Passing the overland roadhouse today completes a full lap of Australia for Rob and I. We both feel a sense of completion for this journey even though we have done way more than a “lap” and still have approximately 12 weeks before we return to the East Coast of Queensland.

We are both enjoying this adventure and all the experiences we have encountered in this amazingly beautiful, rugged country of ours.

We turn right off the highway and head up Shark Bay Road, planning to free camp near Shell beach, a favourite beach from last year. After 80km we arrive and spend a couple of hours on Shell Beach, enjoying the uniquely extremely salty (hyper saline) shallow water in the sunshine and all the shells of course.

About 60km of shells in fact, sometimes up to 10m deep, formed from from the tiny Fragum cockle that’s able to survive the salty water created by the Faure Sill, an expanse of sea grass at the mouth of the Peninsula. It’s warm with a breeze and a lovely place to relax and reflect on our trip so far.

Rob decides to walk up to the feral animal control fence; erected in 2010 and stretching across the width of Peron Peninsula to protect indigenous animals from feral invaders such as cats, foxes, rabbits and goats. I read that the Bilby has been successfully reintroduced here since the fence was erected.

We make camp at a WikiCamps Freecamp – Shelly Gravel Pit almost opposite Shell Beach. Its location is the most appealing element.

Tuesday 17 September 2024

Temperature: 16-31, Windy, cool overnight and sunny.

Starting km’s: 10600

Wind picked up overnight and it’s a very windy morning so we have a slow start as we decide how to spend the day.

We decide to drive into Denham about 80km’s further along the peninsula and visit the World Heritage Centre and hope that the wind drops later so we can swim somewhere.

Stopping at Whalebone point scenic lookout we see a large bird fishing so we walk down to take a closer look. It moves further down the beach but we think it might be a pacific gull or greater cormorant? You may make it out in the photo on the left.

Continuing on, we see a tiny Thorny devil on the road, no pic as he’s too small and too quick as we head into Denham, where we stroll along the foreshore before deciding to visit Shark Bay World Heritage Centre.

The centre celebrates Shark Bay’s bio diversity and explores the area’s inclusion in Workd Heritage listing including Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool and the Fragum cockle and Faur Sill that make up Shell Beach. The centre also explores maritime history of the area including the landings of Dirk Hartog on the Island of same name nearby in 1616 and Dutch navigator Willem de Vlamingh’s landing at same location in 1697.

I read the story of Rose de Freycinet (nee Piñon) wife of Louis Freycinet who sailed with him on the Uranus 1818-1820 and wrote a journal as the second woman to circumnavigate the globe. Now a book; a Woman of Courage, it sounds like a fascinating read so I note for future reading.

Afterwards we head to Shark Bay hotel for lunch sharing a fishburger and squid with salad and while away an hour chatting to two fellow couples traveling from Qld.

On the return trip to to the van we stop off at Eagle bluff which has amazing views below of the bay below and we see sharks and turtles! An amazing afternoon even without a swim!

TURTLE

Wednesday 18 September 2024

Temperature: 16-31 degrees, Cool breezy morning, sunny.

Starting km’s: 10720

Approx 250 km’s driving today, leaving the Francois Peron Peninsula and heading South towards Geraldton

As we leave I spy a lizard in a bush and on the main road we see some emu’s.

We see lots of wildflowers and the outback scrub slowly gives way to green agricultural fields along the way before we stop today at Galena Bridge Camp on the Murchison River.

We relax for a while before I make dinner, a vegetarian nourish bowl with spiced & roasted chickpeas and cauliflower. As the afternoon wans a breeze comes up and I start sneezing. This starts a full on allergy attack with itchy watering eyes and a sneezing, headache. I’ve suffered hayfever my whole life so I’m prepared with antihistamines on hand but it’s still unpleasant.

As evening sets, the moon rises and we have the a beautiful harvest moon on the horizon.

Thursday 19 September 2024

Temperature: 12-29 breezy, sunny

Starting kilometre’s: 10973

100 kilometres today into Geraldton.

Lots of flowers, kangaroo paw, wattle and swathes of yellow, pink white and purple line the highway.

No wonder my hayfever is in overdrive!

We stop at Elephant Hill lookout, and take pics of Elephant Hill. Can you see the elephant?

We set down at Sunset Beach Caravan Park, here for three days to take care of a minor recall on the Isuzu and catch the next two semifinal games in the AFL; Sydney Swans (my team) v Port Adelaide on Friday and Brisbane Lions (Rob’s team) v Geelong Cats on Saturday.

Friday 20 September 2024

Temperature: 7-23 cool overnight, windy and sunny.

Our first job today is to drop the Isuzu in for a minor recall. Thankfully they give us a loan car for the morning so we head to the shops for coffee and a browse then back to the van. In the afternoon we head to WinterSun tavern. We are meeting my niece Jo for dinner and to watch the Swans game. It’s lovely to see Jo and catch up on all her news.

The game is a nail biter but the Sydney Swans prevail and I’m thrilled with the win! Woohoo!

Go the Swans!

Saturday 21 September 2024

Temperature: 7-22 windy with gusts.

The gusting wind in Geraldton makes doing anything outside tricky so we opt for a wildflower trail drive. Rob’s found a loop drive that will take us out to Mullawa and around and back via Nabawa where we have arranged to meet Jo and her partner Chris to watch the Brisbane Lions v Geelong Cats semifinal later today.

As we head for Mullawa we pass through Tenindewa and find the flower trail includes sculptures and local history.

Mullawa, about 100 km’s from Geraldton is a charming town in the wheatbelt with a lookout and an interesting church.

We then take the Northern loop which includes a sidetrack through Urawa Nature Reserve with lots of flowers and a camp spot by a river.

We just have enough time to drive to Nabawa through the countryside and arrive just before kick off. Jo and Chris are there to meet us and there are a few locals settled in for the game too.

The game starts with the Geelong Cats and Brisbane Lions evenly matched but in the second quarter Geelong gets ahead. It’s a tense third and fourth quarters as Brisbane battle to fight back the 29 point lead and the closing minutes of the game are tense as Geelong and Brisbane fight to win. Geelong kicks a goal and Brisbane have minutes to score!

They do and it’s a thrilling win for the Lions!

A great afternoon of footy with good company and friendly rivals in the crowd.

It’s been lovely to spend time with Jo too.

A lovely few days in Geraldton with great AFL results for both Rob and I with both our teams making the Grand Final next week.

Tomorrow we head to Dongara for a few days and then hit the Wildflower trail.

Stay safe and take care.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Bullara Station to Coral Bay WA

September 24, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Exmouth Gulf, Bullara Station, Coral Bay WA

Regions: Gascoyne WA

Dates: 11 – 15 September 2024

Temperatures: 20 – 37, hot, sunny.

Wednesday 11 September 2024

Temperature: 15 – 31 degrees, sunny

Starting kilometre’s: 9368

With all the washing clean and fresh yesterday we decided to forgo the mining mess for the hotel and shared a prawn stir fry and a parmi. Today we are headed to House Creek Camp, about 176 km’s on the Beasley (52) and then Nanutara-Munjina Road 212 in total.

It’s vey hot with 33 degrees at 11:30 and 34 by 12:00pm. We make camp at House Creek in shade and set up to watch the US campaign debate Trump v Harris. Entertainment at its best.

Roast Lamb & Veg and then a storm after dinner.

Thursday 12 September 2024

Starting kilometre’s: 9581

Temperature: 22 – 37, warm overnight with a wee storm, cool sunny morning.

We drive 251 kms to Bullara station today, arriving about 12:30pm. After set down we relax in the shade of the van. The temp is 34 at 1pm.

As the afternoon cools I take a walk to check out the camp kitchen, the bottle tree, the Lava Trees and Bill the Turtle. Curiously, and I’m a bit embarrassed to admit, it took me 24 hours to work out what a Lava Tree is!

SHEEP AFTERNOON STROLL

From 4:30 pm there is live music and a bar at the woolshed with guitarist Tommy Steez so we relax there and enjoy the cooling evening breeze, I particularly like his song, “I hate Byron Bay”! He sings some of my old favourites from Neil Young and Hendrix with his own arrangements which are interesting and different.

It’s Suzy’s funeral in Brisbane today so Rob and I have a quiet cheers to farewell my friend. A country girl like me, Suzy loved everything country so I reckon she would have loved Bullara Station.

Friday 13 September 2024

Temperature: 21-37, hot and sunny

Hot overnight but a cool breeze picked from around 3am for a cool morning.

I feed my starter Millie for bread and cinnamon rolls later.

Rob and I decide to do a trip to Coral Bay so we leave at 9am. It’s 69kms. We plan to spend the day on the beach and return at 3pm so I can make a loaf of bread and cinnamon rolls before we attend the famous “burger night” at Bullara Station.

We visit Bills Bay; a beautiful sweep of a bay which includes Maud’s Sanctuary zone so no fishing. We walked along the beach and see large fish, some at least 600mm in the water. Happy to swim near us, close enough to touch!

Then we visited Monck Head, for a look and returned to Bills Bay for the day. I couldn’t resist videoing the fish.

We sheltered under a sandstone overhang and with the shade and the breeze, swimming and snorkeling had the best day!

As we leave Coral Bay we see quite a big build up of clouds. Makes me think of the wee storm two nights ago, maybe the build up is already starting?

It’s still 29 degrees when we leave at 3pm

The drive along Exmouth Gulf has outstanding views of wide sweeping plains, peppered by termit mounds all the way out to Giralia range. The photo’s don’t do it justice but it is a spectacular view.

Once back at Bullara, I hop to with my cinnamon rolls. I’m making my own recipe for the filling with apple and cinnamon and just a little sugar as I’m always trying to to reduce/cut sugar from my diet. I’m pretty pleased with the result but proof will be in the baking in the morning.

We shower and get ready for the evening and I just have time to mix ingredients for a sourdough loaf. I’ll be busy later with the folds.

Later we hear there are 400 people here for burger night. The atmosphere is festive and we chat with Paula and Steve sitting next to us who are from Karratha.

The firepit is lit and they start cooking – about 30 burgers at a time I think?

Shortly after a fellow comes in on a horse. We aren’t certain but it maybe the station manager. He heads to the bar, still on his horse and is provided a beer. This is a very Australian thing to do and everyone in the crowd including us love it.

The dinner queue starts soon and it’s an amazingly well rehearsed production that moves quickly. I must say the burger was one of the best I’ve ever eaten, truly. Very tasty, juicy with pickle, cheese, beetroot, onion slaw and your choice of sauce (mustard and tomato for me) and it didn’t fall apart! Rob liked it so much he planned to buy some burgers from reception the next day!

Thalia provides the entertainment tonight and does a great job with her three acoustic guitars, original scores and unique rhythm technique. To top the evening the sunset is a beauty!

Saturday 14 September 2024

Temperature: 20 – 37, warm overnight, sunny.

Starting kilometre’s: 9984

Rob’s up early for a walk and I’m up to bake my cinnamon rolls and finish my loaf. I use the oven in the camp kitchen and I’m pretty happy with the result.

We leave Bullara today and are heading South over the next week towards Geraldton. It’s going to be hot today so we decide to head back to Coral Bay for a few hours during the middle of the day. This time we go to Monck Head as it has a boating facility and parking for the van.

We park ourselves under another sandstone overhang. For the first hour the flies are terrible, hence the fly net but a wind change later provides some relief. Rob takes a walk and spies a small reef shark in the shallows and later we see a small sting ray in the shallows

We pack up about 2:30pm and head back to the car and then head South for another 80 or so km’s on the Minilya- Exmouth Road. The coast plains in this area are vast and seem to stretch on endlessly with narry a tree to be seen. We see vast spreads of yellow flowers before the road turns further inland and the landscape changes to low saltbush scrub. Lovely to see flowers and looking forward to more as we head South.

The dash show 40 degrees at 2:15pm and at 2:23pm we cross the Tropic of Capricorn.

We camp at Minilya Creek Rest area. We have reception for the Lions V GWS semi final. What a game!

Sunday 15 September 2024

Temperature: 10 – 38, breezy overnight, warm and sunny.

Starting kilometre’s: 10159

Today we are driving 140 km to Carnarvon which is uneventful. In Carnarvon we stop for fuel and groceries then visit Pelicans Point.

We then drive a further 80km’s to Edagee Rest Stop where we are camping tonight. With pretty wildflowers.

Tomorrow we are revisiting Shell Beach and Shark Bay.

Stay safe and stake care of each other.

Lots of Love Maryann and Rob. xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Karijini National Park WA

September 19, 2024 Maryann McDougall 1 Comment

Locations: Karijini National Park, Tom Price, Paraburdoo.

Regions: Pilbara WA

Dates: 5 September – 10 September 2024

Temperatures: 8 – 39 degrees

Starting kilometres: 8383

Thursday 5 September 2024

Temperature: 14-28, overcast morning clearing to sun.

We set of just after 9am and arrive at Paraburdoo around 12pm. Along the way we pass amazing scenery that changes from really green to really dry. We see amazing creek beds, ranges and long stretches of highway. The scenery constantly changes, as do the colours showing deep hues of russet and grey blue under the overcast sky and then bright greens and ochres under the sun.

We stop at the information Centre before heading out to our camp near Mt Bruce. Paraburdoo is a mining town; gazetted in 1972 and has a memorial to Red Dog, born here in 1971 and star of the blockbuster movie of the same name.

Leaving Paraburdoo we start to see lots of wildflowers and then we are stopped at roadworks and hear that a 10m wide load is coming from one of the mines so we find a spot to pull off and wait for it. There’s two and they’re big!

OVERSIZED TRAFFIC

Not long after this we go up and over a big hill and we see Mt Bruce and the start of Karijini. Karijini is WA’s second largest National Park covering 627,422 acres or 1,550390 hectares!

If kilometre’s is easier to imagine it’s 6,274.22 km squared!

Karijini is home to rock formations that are estimated to be 2.5billion years old. Most of the gorges and waterfalls are in the Northern part and most are accessible via sealed roads.

We make camp at Mt Bruce Camp just behind a Mount that I can’t find the name of so Mt Nameless to me.

It sits in front of Mt Bruce from this angle and we have a lovely view of Hamersley Ranges in the opposite direction. After dark, I see a huge amount of lights in the distance which we think are from the Marandoo Mine Camp.

Friday 6 September 2024

Temperatures: 8 – 25, cool and clear, sunny.

Starting kilometre’s: 8703

Today we are visiting Hamersley Gorge before going into Tom Price to shop and shower at the information centre.

It’s about 62km down a very red road. It’s gravel but a good road, wide and not too corrugated. Obviously used for mining traffic and we have Hamersley Range on our right for most of the drive there. The colours are vibrant and the deep russet red of the road has drifted into all the vegetation alongside the road, trees and shrubs alike.

The gorge is just a short 500m walk down with steps but I elect to stop at the lookout due to my foot so Rob heads down for a dip and takes some snaps while he’s down there. While enjoying the view I chat to a lady named Suzanne from the Sunshine Coast, Qld.

Next up we drive into Tom Price for a shower. After five days of top and tail it’s welcome and refreshing. We pick up a few groceries, visit the dump point and refuel before heading back out.

Saturday 7 September 2024

Temperature: 12-29, sunny

Today we are visiting Joffre and Knox Gorge. Both are in a different direction to Hamersley Gorge and are part of the Weano area and it’s about a 40 km drive. We set off just after 8am

Arriving Joffre I see some pretty wildflowers growing and it’s lovely that we are seeing more and more wildflowers every day. Spring has sprung!

There’s a short walk and then rock steps down to the lookout. As we walk we start to see the Gorge open up and sitting on a natural step in the sun is a healthy King Brown! He’s shy so slips into a spinifex bush nearby so I don’t get a photo.

I manage the stairs down with help from Rob and the view is worth it. A lovely spot with Karijini Eco lodge opposite. There’s a walk around the Gorge to the other side and then down to the waterhole, Rob does the View and Waterhole walks while I patiently wait for the King brown to reappear but no chance.

I took a short video of the area for you. So pretty, such natural beauty!

Next we are off to Knox Gorge, not far away so only a short drive.

Knox is spectacular! Much bigger than Joffre, deeper, longer. Just wow!

Rob sets off to hike the Gorge and I relax and enjoy the scenery from the lookout, chatting to other visitors.

It hard to catch Rob at the bottom as there are lots of shadows but I do manage to find him in this picture. As he’s about to cross the creek from the left to the right.

Rob takes some pictures while he’s walking of course, so these follow.

These are spectacular spaces and with the lookouts I don’t feel like I’m missing out entirely which is nice.

On the drive back we stop to enjoy some wildflowers and views of Mt Bruce and Mt Nameless where we are camped.

It’s another spectacular sunset and then I’m awake early and catch sunrise behind our Mt Nameless.

Sunday 8 September 2024

Temperature: 15 – 30

Today we are off to Circular Pool, Three Ways, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool at Dales Gorge and then lastly Hancock Gorge via a circular loop of about 120 km’s.

We arrive at Circular Pool and Three Ways about 10:45am, these two are at one end of the walk to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which are at the other end of Dales Gorge with about 2.5 km’s between them.

We visit both lookouts which are amazing and then Rob heads out to walk Dales Gorge while I jump in the car and drive to the other end to meet him. Circular Pool walk is closed due to a rock slide last wet season.

I walk back to the car slowly taking in the beautiful gum trees along the edge of the gorge.

I’m quickly at Fortescue falls which has a big park and recreation area with a boardwalk to the lookout which has a superb view back towards Three Ways, along Dale Gotge and in the other direction towards Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which is above the falls.

From the lookout it’s a good 280 steps and stairs down to the Falls so I’m happy to sit and enjoy the view while I wait for Rob. A ranger stops and we have a brief chat and she tells me there are 2-3 rescues for sprains and breaks in the Gorge each week! Each one takes about 5-8 hours to rescue and the nearest medical is Tom Price about 80km’s away from here. The ranger also tells me she does the stairs about 5 times a day, every shift, wow. The ranger tells me Oxer lookout at Hancock Gorge is the best in her opinion. That’s next on our trip today.

Rob appears and it’s only taken him about 1.5hrs to do the walk, swim and climb the steps out! How fit is he.

He’s taken some pictures of the walk and pools which follow. Looks lovely.

Our last Gorge today is Hancock Gorge at Weano Recreation reserve as we continue our loop drive. The scenery continues to amaze with rock formations and outstanding scenes at every turn.

We arrive at Weano, check out the maps then head out to Oxer lookout. It’s 800 m walk or drive so we elect to drive.

Hancock gorge is magnificent, stretching out in four directions. The cliffs are sheer and deep and it’s only possible to see the bottom, where there is water up one angle of the gorge. There is a walk and I’m disappointed not to be fit enough as I think it would be amazing to walk between the walls of this great chasm in the earth.

Rob decides to do the Kermit’s pool walk so we return to the park and I sit in the shade admiring a cute Spinifex Pidgeon pair. He’s dancing but she’s having none of it! It hit 32 at 2:30pm so it’s quite hot.

Rob’s photos of Kermit’s pool are below. Love the narrow gorge pool photo with the reflection.

Wow what a day. Karijini sure delivers with its beautiful ruggedness and natural wonders.

Monday 9 September 2024

Temperature: 13-31 breezy morning, sunny

Rob’s walking Mt Bruce (1235m) this morning so I baked some sourdough discard crackers that I’d prepped a couple of days ago, did some exercise, meditated and blogged. Nice to have a quiet morning to myself.

Rob enjoyed his hike, returning just before 12pm.

In the afternoon we head into Tom Price for a shower, and a few groceries and otherwise enjoyed the quiet and ambience of Karrijini on our last day.

33 degrees at 1:30pm.

Tuesday 11 September 2024

Temperature: 15 – 29 overcast and a few spits of rain before 8:00am!

Starting kms: 9257

We are leaving beautiful Karijini today for Paraburdoo, 131 km’s away. We’ve heard the caravan park there is attached to the mining camp and has free washing machines and you can have dinner in the miners mess! All you can eat for $21.

Thought we would try it out and perhaps a good opportunity to get rid of some of the red dirt of the last few weeks before we head back to coast tomorrow.

Hope this finds you all well. Stay safe and take care. Love Maryann and Rob

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Cape Range National Park, Ningaloo Reef

September 12, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Cape Range National Park Ningaloo Reef

Region: Gascoyne WA

Dates: 2 September – 4 September 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 35, hot and sunny

Monday 2 September

Temp 17 – 35, hot and sunny.

It was lovely going to sleep in the salt air with the sound of the waves crashing on the Ningaloo reef on the other side of the dunes. Good thing it was an early night as something wakes me at 3:00am scratching about on the roof of the van. Possibly a bird but it may have been the top hatch creaking as it caught the early morning breeze that came through. It’s another beautiful dawn and Rob is up and out for an early walk to catch the sunrise while I chase a few more zzz’s.

We head out early though, around 8am to catch high tide at Oyster Stacks. This is another drift snorkeling site that can only be swam at high tide to protect the reef.

On the drive there I see a black flanked wallaby sitting quietly in the rocky hills as we pass by.

We arrive and I’m dismayed to see the beach is very rocky and the shoreline is jagged rocks. I decide to sit and watch as it’s too rocky for me to navigate with my ankle which is quite swollen today from all the sand walking yesterday I think.

It’s a beautiful spot so I’m happy to watch Rob and other snorkellers.

The idea is to go in at one end, on the left and let the current take you over the reef for about 300 metres as you snorkel and you then exit before the current sweeps you out and walk back up to repeat.

Rob does about 3 passes, seeing lots of colourful fish and a turtle embedded in the sand. I check later and apparently they sleep when they do this.

Next on the list today is Osprey Bay, with sand entrances so I swam and snorkelled here and saw lots of fish.

By 11:30am it’s getting quite hot so we decide to drive out to see Yardie creek. As we walk back to the car we see Corella’s seeking shade under cars and they’re not moving for anyone!

Yardie Creek is another 30km’s down the range road and the end of the road for the National Park. From here you can take a 1hr boat ride up Yardie creek to where it ends and view the Gorge. I run into a lady I had spoken to at Oyster Stacks who had just done it and really enjoyed it. Said she had seen lots of wallaby’s on the rocks too and some monitors.

Obviously the wildlife stick close to fresh water as a distinct characteristic that we’ve both noticed since we left Kununurra is the lack of wildlife; apart from birds, My hopes of seeing a full grown frilled neck lizard having diminished as the days have gone by so it’s a good thing we see Kites, Kestrels, Hawks and many other birds most days.

On the way back to camp I see a Wedgetail Eagle pair high in the sky enjoying the thermals as they hunted for their dinner.

It’s another spectacular sunset followed by leftover roast lamb for dinner.

TIMELAPSE SUNSET

Tuesday 3 September 2024

Temp: 15 – 33 degrees, hot and sunny.

We are going back to Turquoise Bay today, to the bay this time rather than the drift section so we are out early once again.

The bay is lovely and calm and it’s a delight to swim and snorkel here. We strike up conversations with a couple, Marilyn and Peter from Perth and chat to them throughout the morning. Peter has a stand up paddle board and very generously offers Rob a go. No photos as I was swimming.

I relax on my towel and there’s a seagull who keeps popping in next to me. He’s got a sore paw like me poor thing. Rob saw a turtle as he went further out with fins and then later we both see one surfing the waves briefly as they bobbed up for air. What a treat this is.

We leave Turquoise Bay at lunch and I think I spy a Wedgetail eagle in the dunes as we leave. Driving back I try to capture the ranges.

We relax through the heat of the afternoon then try our luck with some beach fishing using sourdough for bait. Sadly no catch but there’s a few nibbles and it’s fun casting and trying out the beach rods. I used to love fishing when I was a young woman but like lots of things in life it fell away with children although I did take my daughters fishing a few times on holidays as they got older.

Cape Range has been a delight and I can admit to a twinge of jealousy when talking to three gents on the way back from the beach who camp here for 28 days every year! I’ve always admired the idea of an annual four weeks summer holiday at the beach.

Wednesday 4 September 2024

Temperature: 17 – 31 hot and sunny.

Starting km’s: 8028

Happy Birthday Carly!

Today we leave Cape Range and Exmouth Gulf heading inland toward Karijini National Park, 717 kilometres away. We will take two days to get there, camping at House Creek Free Camp on the way.

We leave MESA camp and head back into Exmouth where we need to refuel, dump and refill water and stop for a few groceries. I also have an important phone call to make for my daughter’s birthday today.

We stop at the visitors centre to dump and refill water and there is a Travelers camp van parked up nearby with a young man sitting on top strumming his guitar and singing. Turns out to be an impromptu original composition which his mates from Germany, India, Sweden and Nederlands tell me he just keeps making up as he goes along! Hilarious! The singer is Italian and they are all international students from Perth on a quick getaway to the outback.

I really enjoy this impromptu and innocent fun.

In the background of the photo is the big prawn! Not as big; about 1/10th in fact as the one I photographed in Ballina NSW last year but it is very shiny and new looking.

While Rob attends to the jobs, lucky me has a lovely chat with the birthday girl and her big sister too, catching up on all their news. They’ve been going through a difficult time as their co tenant has breached their lease so they’ve had to navigate all of that, find new accommodation and organise to move! I’m very proud of how they’ve managed this difficult situation and luckily they have found new digs not far away from where they currently are. Trying times in the current rental market.

Next up is groceries, then fuel and we head out of Exmouth. We backtrack down the gulf road then turn left and head North back up the highway to Nanutarra before turning left towards Parabadoo, Tom Price and Karijini.

Almost as soon as we turn, we start to see ranges appearing left and right. The drive to Karijini has the Hamersley and Chichester- Millstream Ranges on the left (North) and Barlee and Capricorn Ranges on the right (South) so the further out we go the more picturesque the drive becomes.

We arrive at the camp around 2:30 and it’s a very hot 37 degrees so we relax in the shade through the remainder of the afternoon and later spend the evening chatting with another couple nearby, Helen and Stephen from Bribie Island.

Sometimes travel days are really lovely days like today. Tomorrow we will arrive at Karijini National Park.

Hope you are all well and thriving. Stay safe and take care.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Karratha to Exmouth WA

September 9, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Locations: Karratha, Yannarie, Exmouth, Cape Range National Park WA.

Regions: Pilbara, Gascoyne WA

Dates: 29 August – 1 September 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 37degrees

Starting kilometres: 7128

Thursday 29 August

Temp: 18 – 37, hot and sunny

We leave Karratha around 9:30am with a long day of driving ahead. Hoping to do about 340 kilometres.

About 5 kilometres out we receive a rock strike on the windscreen from a truck cutting in to soon after overtaking which gives both of us a scare but thankfully no damage.

The landscape changes more often today as we move through Mardie. I think we have Hammersley Range on our left and then we cross over the Fortescue River. The third longest river in the state it is named after Chichester Fortescur, Parliamentary under Secretary of State for the Colonies in 1861.

Fortescue is also a family name on Rob’s mum’s side of his family.

By 11:30am it’s 35 degrees as we pass over the Robe River, wide and mostly dry.

We then come to an overpass at Fortescue with a gravel road running underneath in either direction and lots of radio chatter between a stationary vehicle and road trains turning left and right onto the highway, with a Mining operation nearby, we suspect.

An hour later, in the distance more ranges appear and Parry Range comes into view as we pass Cane River Conservation Park. By 1:00pm we reach Nanutarra Roadhouse and here we refuel.

We arrive at our camp for tonight, Yannarie around 2pm. We relax in the shade of the van til sundown before an early dinner and night.

Friday 30 August 2024

Yannarie to Exmouth

Temp: 17 – 30, cool breeze over night and morning, warm and sunny.

I’m awakened at 3:30 by a stiff breeze and it’s cooler than it’s been for days. The cool change is welcome relief after all the heat.

I’m looking forward to seeing the Coast again at Exmouth and after about 40km’s today we enter the Gascoyne region before turning right onto Warlu Way towards Coral Bay, Exmouth and Cape Range National Park. We will be in the Gascoyne Region for the next few weeks.

80 kms along the Warlu way we pass Bullara station. We will return and spend time at Bullara Station in mid September. Due to bookings we will be doing a bit of criss crossing in this area in the next few weeks.

Then we turn right again toward Exmouth.

We are staying at the RAC Exmouth park for two nights. Unfortunately when we arrive it’s very windy. Wind is prevalent all along the WA coast so you just never know how it will be and you have to take the bad with the good. I’m hopeful that the wind will die down by the time we get out to Cape Range national Park so that we can enjoy the best of the Ningaloo reef while we’re there.

After set down and a bit of a break we head out to explore Exmouth with a drive out to the start of the Cape Range NP and the Vlaming Head lighthouse which is about 25km’s out.

While there we read that the lighthouse is the only point in Australia where you can get both sunrise and sunset from the one point so we decide to rise extra early on Sunday to catch sunrise out here before we head out to Cape Range and then do sunset out there.

Saturday 31 August 2024

Exmouth to Cape Range NP

Temp: 17 – 28 sunny and windy 25 – 45kph with gusts

A very slow day today. The wind is gusting and it’s very unpleasant so we have a cruisy morning with egg and bacon rolls then do a a few groceries then a drive around Exmouth.

We visit a new Marina estate and while checking out the boats I see a huge eel swimming underwater along the rock wall. He’s obviously hunting for his lunch!

Sunday 1 September 2024

Temp: 20 – 30 cool & breezy morning, sunny.

We rise at 5:30am, dress and grab a jacket as it’s cool and breezy, then jump in the car and drive to the lighthouse. It’s magnificent to see the light in the sky change through a myriad of colour and to experience sunrise like this on the WA coast.

After about 1/2 an hour we head back into town pack up and hitch and then head back out again, this time continuing down the Ningaloo Coast Road for another 36 km’s with the coast on our right and Cape Range on our left to our booked spot at MESA campground. The wind has settled as the day progresses and we are looking forward to the next three days exploring Ningaloo Reef.

We arrive, set down and have a chat to Rick and Val, the volunteer camp hosts then throw on togs and we are off for a snorkel at Turquoise Bay. Rob does some drift snorkeling on the current while I choose to swim and let my ankle just enjoy the cool water.

We spend a couple of hours enjoying the water before heading back to van where I have planned a roast lamb for Rob for Father’s Day. We enjoy the sunset in the dunes with a glass of wine and agree it’s been a perfect day!

Happy Fathers Day to all the dad’s we know . Stay safe and take care of one another.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Eighty Mile Beach to Karratha WA

September 7, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Eighty Mile Beach, Pardoo & Cape Keraudren, Port Hedland, Karratha WA

Regions: Kimberley, Pilbara WA

Dates: Sunday 25 August – Thursday 29 August 2024

Temperatures: 24 – 37 degrees, hot!

Starting kilometre’s: 6490

Today we are leaving Eighty Mile Beach heading for Karratha with a couple of stops along the way.

The weather has really heated up and we hear on radio national that in the last few days 140 year old August temperature records are being broken all over the Kimberley and Pilbara regions!

Up until the last couple of days the nights have been nice and cool provided welcome relief from the hot days but last night it only got down to 24 and that’s on the coast so you can imagine what inland temps are like!

Today we are traveling 173 kilometre’s to De Grey River Free camp, moving into the Pilbara and driving mostly along the coast.

Still traveling along the Great Northern Highway we turn right at Pardoo towards Cape Keraudren which is about 6 kilometre’s, mostly bitumen.

Cape Keraudren is a Nature Reserve not part of WA parks so day and overnight fees apply to visit. We arrive at 11:30am and it’s already 36 degrees. Rob wants to walk to a blowhole nearby so I elect for a shorter stroll to the boat ramp and enjoy views of the coastline.

Continuing on we pass Pardoo heading South to our overnight camp on DeGrey River. Rob walks to the river but it’s dry. Next morning as we leave we cross another bridge on the DeGrey River and this one has water.

Monday 26 August 2024

Temperature: 20 – 38 sunny and hot.

Today we are passing through Port Hedland for fuel and supplies but not stopping. We plan to Freecamp again on our way to Karratha.

As we are driving towards The Port we pass a very long train loaded with ore and a large salt mining operation.

Fun fact, each carriage carries 140 tonne of ore and each train has 140 carriages!

Just after this we are on a dual carriageway and a driver alongside of us makes a circling motion attracting my attention. Something must be wrong so we pull over and the driver does too then comes back to tell us the drivers side wheel of the van is on an angle! He thinks we may have done a bearing.

I immediately start searching for caravan repairers and calling, after 3 attempts I get onto Bruce Rock engineering and they say to head over, they can take a look.

Based on advice from a tyre guy a while back Rob bought two hub and bearing kits in case so we have our own spares if needed.

Bruce Rock assess and it’s not the bearings at all, the wheel is slightly loose by about 5ml which is negligible and he’s amazed that the guy could see this from the road. Phew! Crisis averted!

In any case it’s good to have both wheels checked and tightened and the service is at a very reasonable cost.

By 12:30pm we are back on the road and back to our brief tour around the Port of Hedland. We visit Pretty Pool on the way out and then it’s onto refueling and supplies before heading back to the highway. Good to be back in the car too as it hit 39 degrees at 2:30pm.

We cross Yule River which is very wide has no water but some cows are wandering about and our camp tonight is at Peawah River.

Tuesday 27 August 2024

Temperature: 18-34, sunny and hot

On the highway by 9:30am and this morning we saw a Flock of Emu’s; the first for a while, hills start to appear and the vibrant Stuart Dessert Pea pops up in patches alongside the highway from Whim Creek for about 10km’s. The temperature hits 33 degrees at 10:30am!

We cross Sherlock and then little Sherlock Rivers. One with water, one without. So different.

We turn towards Roebourne and briefly stop for a break. I grab a coffee from the community cafe and it’s a good one! Thank you Roeburne Cafe.

We arrive Karratha about 12:30pm. The town is very nice, tidy and obviously has lots of industry around mining..

We are here two nights and after set down we head out to Dampier, a further 20km’s to see the coast. We’ve heard the pub; the Mermaid, has great views and cheap meals so maybe dinner out tonight.

As we drive out, there is a long causeway with salt lakes either side and when we arrive the pub does have a lovely view and we think the sunset will be good so we decide to have an early dinner.

Wednesday 28 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 35, hot and sunny

I’m awake early as usual and find a message from a girlfriend in Qld bearing sad news. An old friend has passed away tragically and unexpectedly.

Suzy and I knew each other through my daughter’s primary school years. She was an amazing woman, full of fun, spirit and a very kind person.

I feel so sad for her children, young adults going forward without her and for a life lived but taken too young.

The news weighs heavy. Times like this, it’s hard to be away from the support of friends but they are also just on the other end of a chat too which I take comfort from.

A quiet day of contemplation, washing and preparation for our onward trip towards Exmouth tomorrow.

Give your loved ones a hug. Stay safe and well.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Physio my way

Monthly Archives: September 2024

Aussie Lap – Shark Bay, & Shell Beach to Geraldton

Aussie Lap – Bullara Station to Coral Bay WA

Aussie Lap – Karijini National Park WA

Aussie Lap – Cape Range National Park, Ningaloo Reef

Aussie Lap – Karratha to Exmouth WA

Aussie Lap – Eighty Mile Beach to Karratha WA

Life Moves!