Locations: Shell Beach, Denham

Regions: Gascoyne, Mid West

Dates: 16 – 21 September 2024

Temperature: 16 – 33 degrees,

Monday 16 September 2024

Starting km’s: 10394

A couple of relatively quiet weeks coming up for us as we meander South with the next big thing in the calendar the AFL semi’s then Grand final. Both Rob and I are hoping our teams, Brisbane Lions and Sydney Swans prevail.

We leave Edgadee around 9:30am q and at 10:50am we pass the 36th parallel circle of latitude and leave the North West.

The country side is still salty scrub with few variations. Around 12:00pm we pass the Overland Roadhouse at the turn off to Shark Bay.

We visited Shark Bay and Monkey Mia in September 2023; a week later in the month than today. Passing the overland roadhouse today completes a full lap of Australia for Rob and I. We both feel a sense of completion for this journey even though we have done way more than a “lap” and still have approximately 12 weeks before we return to the East Coast of Queensland.

We are both enjoying this adventure and all the experiences we have encountered in this amazingly beautiful, rugged country of ours.

We turn right off the highway and head up Shark Bay Road, planning to free camp near Shell beach, a favourite beach from last year. After 80km we arrive and spend a couple of hours on Shell Beach, enjoying the uniquely extremely salty (hyper saline) shallow water in the sunshine and all the shells of course.

About 60km of shells in fact, sometimes up to 10m deep, formed from from the tiny Fragum cockle that’s able to survive the salty water created by the Faure Sill, an expanse of sea grass at the mouth of the Peninsula. It’s warm with a breeze and a lovely place to relax and reflect on our trip so far.

Rob decides to walk up to the feral animal control fence; erected in 2010 and stretching across the width of Peron Peninsula to protect indigenous animals from feral invaders such as cats, foxes, rabbits and goats. I read that the Bilby has been successfully reintroduced here since the fence was erected.

We make camp at a WikiCamps Freecamp – Shelly Gravel Pit almost opposite Shell Beach. Its location is the most appealing element.

Tuesday 17 September 2024

Temperature: 16-31, Windy, cool overnight and sunny.

Starting km’s: 10600

Wind picked up overnight and it’s a very windy morning so we have a slow start as we decide how to spend the day.

We decide to drive into Denham about 80km’s further along the peninsula and visit the World Heritage Centre and hope that the wind drops later so we can swim somewhere.

Stopping at Whalebone point scenic lookout we see a large bird fishing so we walk down to take a closer look. It moves further down the beach but we think it might be a pacific gull or greater cormorant? You may make it out in the photo on the left.

Continuing on, we see a tiny Thorny devil on the road, no pic as he’s too small and too quick as we head into Denham, where we stroll along the foreshore before deciding to visit Shark Bay World Heritage Centre.

The centre celebrates Shark Bay’s bio diversity and explores the area’s inclusion in Workd Heritage listing including Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool and the Fragum cockle and Faur Sill that make up Shell Beach. The centre also explores maritime history of the area including the landings of Dirk Hartog on the Island of same name nearby in 1616 and Dutch navigator Willem de Vlamingh’s landing at same location in 1697.

I read the story of Rose de Freycinet (nee Piñon) wife of Louis Freycinet who sailed with him on the Uranus 1818-1820 and wrote a journal as the second woman to circumnavigate the globe. Now a book; a Woman of Courage, it sounds like a fascinating read so I note for future reading.

Afterwards we head to Shark Bay hotel for lunch sharing a fishburger and squid with salad and while away an hour chatting to two fellow couples traveling from Qld.

On the return trip to to the van we stop off at Eagle bluff which has amazing views below of the bay below and we see sharks and turtles! An amazing afternoon even without a swim!

Wednesday 18 September 2024

Temperature: 16-31 degrees, Cool breezy morning, sunny.

Starting km’s: 10720

Approx 250 km’s driving today, leaving the Francois Peron Peninsula and heading South towards Geraldton

As we leave I spy a lizard in a bush and on the main road we see some emu’s.

We see lots of wildflowers and the outback scrub slowly gives way to green agricultural fields along the way before we stop today at Galena Bridge Camp on the Murchison River.

We relax for a while before I make dinner, a vegetarian nourish bowl with spiced & roasted chickpeas and cauliflower. As the afternoon wans a breeze comes up and I start sneezing. This starts a full on allergy attack with itchy watering eyes and a sneezing, headache. I’ve suffered hayfever my whole life so I’m prepared with antihistamines on hand but it’s still unpleasant.

As evening sets, the moon rises and we have the a beautiful harvest moon on the horizon.

Thursday 19 September 2024

Temperature: 12-29 breezy, sunny

Starting kilometre’s: 10973

100 kilometres today into Geraldton.

Lots of flowers, kangaroo paw, wattle and swathes of yellow, pink white and purple line the highway.

No wonder my hayfever is in overdrive!

We stop at Elephant Hill lookout, and take pics of Elephant Hill. Can you see the elephant?

We set down at Sunset Beach Caravan Park, here for three days to take care of a minor recall on the Isuzu and catch the next two semifinal games in the AFL; Sydney Swans (my team) v Port Adelaide on Friday and Brisbane Lions (Rob’s team) v Geelong Cats on Saturday.

Friday 20 September 2024

Temperature: 7-23 cool overnight, windy and sunny.

Our first job today is to drop the Isuzu in for a minor recall. Thankfully they give us a loan car for the morning so we head to the shops for coffee and a browse then back to the van. In the afternoon we head to WinterSun tavern. We are meeting my niece Jo for dinner and to watch the Swans game. It’s lovely to see Jo and catch up on all her news.

The game is a nail biter but the Sydney Swans prevail and I’m thrilled with the win! Woohoo!

Go the Swans!

Saturday 21 September 2024

Temperature: 7-22 windy with gusts.

The gusting wind in Geraldton makes doing anything outside tricky so we opt for a wildflower trail drive. Rob’s found a loop drive that will take us out to Mullawa and around and back via Nabawa where we have arranged to meet Jo and her partner Chris to watch the Brisbane Lions v Geelong Cats semifinal later today.

As we head for Mullawa we pass through Tenindewa and find the flower trail includes sculptures and local history.

Mullawa, about 100 km’s from Geraldton is a charming town in the wheatbelt with a lookout and an interesting church.

We then take the Northern loop which includes a sidetrack through Urawa Nature Reserve with lots of flowers and a camp spot by a river.

We just have enough time to drive to Nabawa through the countryside and arrive just before kick off. Jo and Chris are there to meet us and there are a few locals settled in for the game too.

The game starts with the Geelong Cats and Brisbane Lions evenly matched but in the second quarter Geelong gets ahead. It’s a tense third and fourth quarters as Brisbane battle to fight back the 29 point lead and the closing minutes of the game are tense as Geelong and Brisbane fight to win. Geelong kicks a goal and Brisbane have minutes to score!

They do and it’s a thrilling win for the Lions!

A great afternoon of footy with good company and friendly rivals in the crowd.

It’s been lovely to spend time with Jo too.

A lovely few days in Geraldton with great AFL results for both Rob and I with both our teams making the Grand Final next week.

Tomorrow we head to Dongara for a few days and then hit the Wildflower trail.

Stay safe and take care.

Love Maryann and Rob xx