Category Archives: Aussie Lap

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – Manning Gorge to Derby

Locations: Manning Girge, Galway Horge, Imintji, Bell Gorge, Derby

Region: Kimberley WA

Dates: Wednesday 7 August – Friday 9 August 2024.

Temperatures 17 – 34 degrees Wunamiin Miliwundi Ranges (prev King Leopold Ranges)

Total trip kilometres: 5058

Wednesday 7 August 2024

Manning Gorge to Imintji 80km’s

We had a very nice evening yesterday chatting with Greg and Tracey from Bundaberg area whom we met on the Gorge trail yesterday. We sharing stories, wine and two very nice cheese platters. A lovely evening with lovely people.

This morning we are moving onto our next camp at Imintji Community Camp where we will stay for two nights and visit Bell Gorge tomorrow.

On the way to Imintji Community Camp and just at the start of the Phillips Ranges is Galvans Gorge. We stop for a walk and a swim.

The track in is about 1km, mostly sand with a few rocks.

The Gorge when we arrive is beautiful and shady. A cool oasis on this hot day.

We both head in for a dip and visit the waterfall on the other side before I swim back and take some photos.

I see three white cockatoo’s head to the top of the fall. It’s very likely there’s a pool up there and it is obviously a favourite spot for them to drink and bathe and stepping back I see a beautiful boab tree right at the very top of the Gorge.

It is such a an awesomely lovely place, cool, peaceful and serene.

I’m reluctant to leave.

But continue on we do. Back to the car and off we head, up and then over the Phillip Ranges now heading South West and towards the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges.

As we drive, we see hills starting to appear at our sides and ranges in the distance and we have bitumen for about 20km’s, a nice change from the gravel.

Before long we see Bell Gorge camp, then Imintji Community Store and then the campground. We check in at the store and on the way to the camp see a Brahman on the side of the road and then two more big beautiful Brahman bulls sauntering down the road.

We make camp with a big golden escarpment as our backdrop and later as the sun sets I take a few snaps of the dusky, dusty wilderness.

Thursday 8 August 2024

Temperature: 19 – 34

Today we are hiking Bells Gorge which is about 45km’s from here.

We planned to set off nice and early and spend most of the hot part of the day there 9am – 3pm but were delayed by a couple seeking help around 7:30am. They had a problem with their van and needed to contact the manufacturer so we turned the Starlink on and then waited until they got a message through and then a reply back with a short term solution to keep them going so we set off about 9:00am and arrived at the Gorge around 10:00am

As we get ready to leave the car the sole of my left boot peels off so I swap to my Merry People boots.

It’s a short fairly easy walk to the Gorge with sand and then a rocky creek bed and two creek crossings.

The walk is pleasant but rocky. We make it to the gorge in about 20mins.

The second part of the track around to the falls (in red on the map) is a level 5 walk so I opt to stay at the top and take pictures of Rob swimming below, up to the falls.

The Gorge is quite long and there are already a lot of people here including an APT Kimberley tour group, swimming as I take pictures of Rob setting off for his walk.

I walk up the Gorge beside the falls and take pictures of Rob as he comes down on the other side and has his swim. The water looks deep and I can see rocks below the surface. These places are absolutely amazing.

The falls are so awesome and the sound is refreshing and clear in this oasis setting.

BELL GORGE VIDEO

I take a picture of the Gorge in both directions before hopping in for a swim in one of the top pools.

The picture above shows a fellow with a white cap and black trunks on. As I was getting in to swim he eases himself over the top ledge of the falls and sits in crevasse with the water flowing around him. The rocks here all have either black or green algae on them which makes them very slippery. My nerves ratchet up as I think of how the day could be ruined for everyone present if he slipped and fell. The foolishness of people in these places never ceases to amaze me. I see the tour guide shaking his head and people in his group start to call him back, saying he’s making them anxious so it’s not only me that feels this way.

I swim up to the edge of the falls, stand about two metre’s back on a sandy patch and wave at Rob and he takes a picture of me at the top of the falls. I’m in the pink shirt!

We enjoy a great day at Bell Gorge, swimming, lounging in the rocks and chatting to people from all over the country, some international people too. We explore the rocks and spend ages watching a Mertens Monitor alternately sunning himself on the rocks and then diving into the water for a dip and repeating this over and over again. It’s beautiful with pale yellow spots on its dark brown skin.

MERTENS MONITOR

We enjoy snacks; some muesli bars I made yesterday and apples, while enjoying the cool shade from the rocks, Rob even dozing for a bit. A really lovely day… until we head back at about 2:30pm.

We walk back to the car park and visit the toilets and as I exit and head down the steps I badly roll my right ankle on an exposed rock underneath the last step. Oh no!

The pain is really bad and I can barely stand. Thankfully Rob heard my yelp and he’s there to steady me.

The pain is so bad I’m fearful I’ve done something bad, it’s all around my ankle and it can’t bear my weight.

Rob moves the car closer and with his help and my walking poles I make it to the car. The 7km drive back to Bell Gorge campground is rough and I’m in agony so when we arrive Rob rearranges the gear in the back seat and moves me there so my right foot is elevated. Then it’s another 45 odd km of rough road back to Imintji community and Rob stops at the store to get ice and then back to camp and before long my foot is in a bucket of ice water… I won’t tell you about getting the boot off!

SPRAINED OR BROKEN?

After that it’s a compression bandage, elevation and more ice. Known as the R.I.C.E first aid technique.

We have to change our plans now so decide to skip Winjana Gorge and the Tunnel Creek hike and head straight to Derby tomorrow. I’m sad about this as I know Rob was really looking forward to the walk – it involves a swim in a cave across 25metre’s with your gear in a dry bag and you need headlamps. So we will reschedule this if we can. It’s about 120km’s from the turn off to Winjana to Derby on the Gibb-Derby road. There also our trip to horizontal falls next week to consider but I don’t want to get ahead of myself.

Friday 9 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 34 degrees

Imintji to Derby 193km’s.

Total trip kilometres: 5220

We awake at dawn and Rob makes coffee. Thankfully after a night of elevation and an ice bag rotating around my ankle, it doesn’t look too bad, swollen but not grotesquely so and the pain is reasonable so I’m hopeful it’s just a bad sprain. Still not weight bearing but I can put it down on the ground this morning.

My lack of mobility means Rob has to do all the jobs which we normally share.

What a trooper he is. Setting the van to travel inside and out including all the extra jobs inside to accommodate the rough road and helping me too. He’s always my hero but especially today. I’m so thankful we share our life together. Thank you handsome.

We set off around 9am and after about 30km we move into another range with steep hills either side. There’s a lookout with spectacular views which we pause to enjoy.

The road is rough and the next section of road is very uncomfortable for me with my leg elevated across the back seat. I do my best to distract myself with the scenery and trying to take pictures but it feels like it’s going to be a long day.

We pass into Hart Mountain range and the rocks show basalt and we start to see trees “scribbly pine” I think. They are small oddly twisted shaped trees.

MT HART
WUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGES
WUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGES
QUEEN VICTORIA HEAD

We pass Queen Victoria Head, which oddly does look like her profile, particularly from afar and then over the Lennard River and around the bend is the Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek turnoff and this marks the end of the gravel! Thank goodness.

LENNARD RIVER BRIDGE

Rob pulls off and reinflated all the tyres and we continue on to Derby arriving about 1pm.

We visit the emergency department which is quiet and I’m seen shortly after by a young doctor who examines my foot and thinks it’s just sprained but wants to x-ray to be sure. The x-ray confirms his diagnosis and I’m much relieved. A sprain is manageable enough living in the van and with crutches in hand we continue on.

Stay safe, be kind to one another and love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – El Questro Station to Manning Gorge Campground

Locations: El Questro, Ellenbrae, Manning

Regions: Kimberley WA

Dates: 4 August 2024 – 6 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34 degrees, hot

Sunday 4 August

El Questro to Ellenbrae 169km’s

Total trip kilometres: 4860

We have already travelled well over the estimated 4300 kilometres for this section of our travels but I didn’t include side trips. I think in Katherine alone we did about 400 extra kilometres so you can see how the numbers quickly grow. Sometimes we even travel further just to fuel up. From El Questro to Derby we have 635km of the Gibb River; at least half of that gravel and the toughest part.

We leave El Questro just before 8:30am crossing the Pentecost creek at the gate.

Once back on the highway we turn left on the Gibb River road with the stunning Cockburn range now on our right.

The range will stay in sight until at least Home Valley station I reckon.

17km on we cross the Pentecost River.

Within 1 kilometre of the gravel road starting on the other side of the Pentecost River our aerial snapped! First casualty!

Update: The Pentecost River crossing video won’t load so I have removed it.

Home Valley Station Visit

The road is rough with corrugations and rocks and the vibrations are bone jarring at times. It’s hard to maintain any speed either – I’m talking 50-60km’s at most but even that’s difficult due to the rocks and constant floodways. You need a bit of speed on corrugated road as going slower just makes the vibrations worse.

We see the sign for Home Valley and decide to call in. It’s 4km in off the road but it’s good to stop and take a break, especially on a hard stretch.

Home Valley is charming.

As we drive out of Home Valley we see the most amazing view of the Cockburn Ranges. Wow!

No long after this we see a lookout and the views of the ranges are equally stunning.

Continuing on we pass two cars, the first with a puncture and then not long after coming the other way, another car with a puncture. We then pass another vehicle and the owner is trying to fix a running board that’s come loose… then we find ourselves behind a slow truck with a slew of traffic coming the other way.

We slow to let the truck get further ahead but it makes the vibrations way worse and it’s going very slow so we eventually have to pass him which is bit scary with all the dust.

The next stretch has some bitumen with some steep up and then down, then up again. Then a creek and then we pass another car that has done a wheel, maybe the axle!

Another river crossing, this one is the Durack River. This is very very rough going!

Just after the Durack River; which in of itself was very rough to cross, the road turn brutal, with endless corrugated gravel and large rocks everywhere, this continues the rest of the 18-20km to Ellenbrae.

Along the way we see a car coming towards us, almost sideways but he recovers, thankfully!

List of injury’s

– Broken Antennae

– Korean BBQ Sauce all through fridge

– Milk bottle sprung a hole, milk everywhere

– Shelf on bench and fixed to the wall in bathroom – all the products jumped out.

– Bathroom door off it’s runners again

– Container of Farfale pasta spilt all through cupboard.

-Bottle of ginger ale sprung a hole and all over the floor.

We consider ourselves lucky though as we saw two punctures, a broken running board and a broken axle along the way.

The sign to Ellenbrae is welcome. The camp is a bit dusty but there is a nice waterhole, complete with Freshies, but that’s ok. Rob swims, I wade. There’s also toilets and showers.

We chat to other travellers. It’s a relief to be here.

After our shower and a chat with Hazel, Rob’s mum, Rob watches the Lions game while I make dinner – BBQ Steak with Potato and a Lentil Salad before we have an early night.

Monday 5 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 33, bit overcast, sunny, hot

Ellenbrae to Manning Gorge 160km’s

Total trip kilometres: 5060

Sunrise

We are up early most days, today no exception. Rob makes coffee then gets stuck into finishing the repair on the ensuite door. I make breakfast, egg on sourdough toast today and start preparing for travel today. We are off to Manning Gorge and hopefully the road will get better soon.

We say goodbye to Ellenbrae about 9:00am and shortly pass over Dawn Creek.

For the first hour and about 40km of driving the road remains rough like yesterday and the landscape continues to be low grassland bush.

Then we pass two young men juggling!

Weird as it sound’s, their car had overheated and they were passing the time juggling.

JUGGLERS!

For the next hour the road gets steadily better as we had heard about and hoped! We cross Ross Creek and before long come to the Kalumburu Road junction.

At the junction we stop for a toilet break and another Traxx van comes in. We have seen this van twice this morning. A chat starts and before long other travellers join in. The conversation jumps from this road to that, this stop to that and so on. one couple are heading up the Kalumbura Road to the Gibb River camp so Rob decides we should head up there too, it’s only 3km’s…

We head up and the Gibb River looks very inviting, but it’s busy.

We turn right off the road, hoping for a turn around but the track gets sandy and before you know it, we are bogged!

Had to happen sometime!

Rob put the Wee Beastie in low range and we got our trax out but we ended up deeper. Cal from Chinchilla and his wife Glenis who are camped nearby take pity on us and were very helpful and tow us out in no time. A big thank you and appreciation of the kindness of strangers.

Meanwhile I have spotted an Azure Kingfisher.

We head off again on the last leg to Manning Gorge. The road is wide and really good and the Savannah grassland continues with some signs of either fire management or fire.

We cross a couple more water ways that look like great spots to camp.

Then we see an escarpment on our left and we know we can’t be far.

We pull in at the roadhouse, register then continue on another 7km to the camp ground. When we drive in we see our van but bigger with its own wee beastie so it’s a jinx! A chat with owners Tim and Amanda follows and we organise for a photo before together before we leave.

After setting down we walk down to the creek for a dip. It’s beautiful with a sandy bottom and has to be swim across tomorrow with our gear in a drum at the start and finish of the gorge walk.

On the way back we see some cute finches, I have the dirtiest feet and we have a big boab right behind us.!

Tuesday 6 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 34

Manning Gorge Walk

So we set off just after 7:30 for this hike as it gets so hot in the middle of day and the UV is extreme too. We still get a hint of winter though as the heat falls out of the day around 5pm and the nights are lovely and cool.

As I mentioned the hike starts with a swim across the creek with your boots and gear in a drum. I didn’t get pictures as we started as we were offered to share a drum with two others and I didn’t want to hold them up to much.

The hike is 5.4km return, grade 4 with an elevation of 100m. The track is rocky and there are white dots and arrows to follow.

We see a few little lizards like this guy but otherwise no creatures. After getting the Azure Kingfisher yesterday my next creature of interest is the Frilled Neck Lizard.

The track meander from rock hopping to trail and back again and the last section of the walk is a gorge, down then up and then a big rocky bit of down into Manning Gorge. The first pool is gorgeous but the falls are still around the corner and down two steep rock ledge sections.

It was worth the rock scramble. The Gorge and Falls are very pretty. There are quite a few people here, one APT tour group and some families too. The kids are jumping from the rock ledge surrounding the falls.

Rob’s in for a dip, then a walk around the falls while I take photo’s, then we swap and I swim before we enjoy a swim together.

The water is lovely, cool but not cold.

We reluctantly head back around 11:00am after a couple of hours enjoying the Gorge, enjoying the views of the escarpment on the way back and our swim back across Manning Creek after a hot walk.

Tomorrow we head for Imintji campground and from there Bell Gorge.

Stay safe and take Carrie off each other.

Love to all, Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – The Gibb River Road Kununurra to El Questro

Locations: Kununurra, Emma Gorge, El Questro

Region: Kimberley WA

Dates: 1 August 2024 – 3 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34

Kununurra to El Questro 120km’

Total trip kilometer’s 4665

Thursday 1 August 2024

Zoe’s 3rd birthday! Happy Birthday Darling girl!

After checking every bolt and screw and taping cupboards and fridge in preparation for the gravel road to El Questro and one final chat with Kay and Cliff a lovely couple from Cowra whom we met at Mataranka and then again at Kununurra, we set off.

We follow the same road to Wyndham and 55km’s along we turn left towards Mt Barnett and onto the Gibb River Road. We stop and take the obligatory pics and we’re off again. Emma Gorge is our first stop today for a hike and a swim, a further 26 km’s.

We cross lots of floodways and have escarpments either side. We then come to the first wet crossing at King River!

Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge is beautiful and the drive in is not too bad. We check in at reception to obtain our park pass as it’s part of El Questro and then head out to the Gorge. It’s a 3.2km return hike, moderate level 4 with some rock scrambles.

Despite the benevolent name I didn’t enjoy the hike. It was a rock scramble most of the way which is not my favourite thing.

I didn’t take poles and got about 9/10’s of the way before I gave up. It got the better of me!

Maybe I am a bit tired after the last few busy days but I decided the best thing for me was to sit in a shady spot by a burbling pool and enjoy the space rather than pushing any further.

It’s hard to write this as I don’t give up easily but these days I’m better at listening to my gut which is why I chose to stop. I encouraged Rob to continue on and he did and had a lovely swim. These are his pictures of Emma Gorge.

I still had to trek all the way out again and thankful did so with no harm. While I was sitting I saw three people fall, a teenager and two women. In my opinion it should not be listed as a moderate hike and I said so on All Trails!

We continue on to El Questro. We turn off the bitumen for our first section of gravel road this section of the trip and stop to let the tyres down.

We have 16km’s of gravel and it’s not too bad! Two wet crossing too.

We arrive and check in. We are here for three nights and will have to move sites after the first night. It’s a big space and I was hoping this would be sorted from when we booked but oh well! The first nights site is not great, sloping both ways but our neighbours are a nice couple. We make camp, then go for a walk and find happy hour at the Swing Bar!

Friday 2 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 33

We both opt for a slow day today. So after a sleep in, a nice breakfast we move the van. A much nicer spot, flat with more room. After resetting we spend the morning going for a walk and then I catchup the blog and Rob does some forward planning, we have lunch, a nap, and then we have another walks around the park, shower, then head to happy hour and an early dinner at the Steakhouse. a lovely relaxing day

Saturday 3 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 34 degrees

Zebedee Springs

Today we are up early, about 5:30am and are out before 7:00am.

Off to Zebedee springs for a dip. Zebedee is about half way back down the track to the Highway and is a short hike, 600m return from the Carpark. Grade 2

It’s a beautiful spring, tropical, warm and the water is clear. There are palm trees in the water and rocks and after about 20mins we discover leeches. A lady we are chatting to nearby suddenly grabs her foot and pulls off a small leach about 3cm.

She is horrified and leaves.

I’m not as phased and remain in the spring as while longer and thankfully neither Rob nor I have the pleasure of meeting any leeches!

One the way back to El Questro I take a video of the Pentecost’s River crossing! Hope it loads for you.

After yesterday’s experience at Emma Gorge, I’m reluctant to challenge Amalia Gorge, a grade 5 walk so Rob goes alone and I stay behind and do some cooking. I bake a loaf of bread and some raspberry friands and start a lentil salad for dinner.

Amalia Gorge

Rob enjoys his hike to Amalia Gorge, 3.5km, moderate, grade 5 walk which includes two pools, lots of rock scrambling and includes a chain rock climb! He finds a fellow traveler to take some pictures of his swim.

We relax through the heat of the day after Rob returns then shower and head to happy hour at 3:30. Yes they start early here!

We cook dinner while watching the Swans v Port Adelaide game. What a shocker! 112 pt loss for the Swans! I’m disappointed to say the least!

The sunset is nice though.

We are off to Ellenbrae Station tomorrow., Sunday 4 August.

Hopefully the Gibb River road will be kind to us.

Stay Safe and take care. Of each other

Love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Kununurra – Mitchell Falls Coastal and The Bungle Bungles Tours

Location: Kununurra, Mitchell Falls , Wyndham, Lake Argyll, The Bungle Bungles

Region: Kimberley NT

Dates: 29 July – 31 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34

Monday 29 July 2024

After such a hectic day yesterday with our Whistle stop tour of Wyndham, Monday starts a wee bit slower. Rob starts working on the van step which has sheared off, so he’s off to the hardware for brackets and bolts to try and repair while I catch up on some blog posts. It’s lovely and warm and there is a breeze from Lake Kununurra and with a cup of tea in hand what more could you ask for.

In the afternoon we go and visit Hoocheys so that Rob can do a rum tasting. It’s the oldest “legal” distillery in WA. He deserves a fun afternoon after all his hard work on the step this morning, which is now back in working order. What a handy man he is.

After I drive us back from the distillery, we take a nice relaxing walk around the park, visiting the avery to see the Gouldian Finches: such colourful little birds, and the parks Boab tree before heading to the waterfront. We finish the day with a relaxing meal and some TV

Tuesday 30 July 2024

Mitchell Falls Coastal Adventure

Temperatures: 18 – 32

We spend the morning with me cleaning the inside of the van and washing and Rob checking every screw in the van in preparation for The Gibb, before we get ready for the first of our Tours.

We are picked up and driven to the airport at 11:15am and after being weighed and checked in our pilot James collects us and takes us to the plane. There is just us two and a third, a lady named Cathy from NZ and we are flying in a four seat Cessna 210N.

The route takes us across Kununurra and its farmlands then straight across country to Ngamoowalem Conservation park towards Durack and then Drysdale River National Park.

We see the road to Kalamburu off The Gibb River road and some local seasonal fire management before we arrive at Mitchell falls which we circle in a figure 8 several times before landing on nearby Mitchell plateau. The falls are a sight to behold.

Apparently you can swim in the upper pool of the falls but not the bottom due to salties.

We have a 30 minute break while the pilot refuels and some light refreshments; mango cake and juice while we wait. Cathy our NZ guest has been air sick all the way out unfortunately so she’s not feeling great.

We take off again on the next leg, up and around the Kimberley coastline. The scenery is amazing and this is the absolute best way to see the vast area of the Kimberley.

We pass over the Lawley River National Park and see all the creeks shooting off. It reminds me of a brain!

Next we fly over North Kimberley Marine Park and along the coast and to the mouth of the Drysdale River.

As we start to turn South East towards Kununurra we pass over King George Falls, not really flowing at this time of year but still spectacular with the River leading up into the gorge to the falls! So beautiful and there is a yacht parked just under the falls. Wow!

Next we fly along the coastline towards Berkeley River lodge, the most Northern remote resort, across an area known as Oombulgurri. The pilot says we may see sharks, rays, turtles or crocs and he is flying low but I can’t pick anything out. The coastline is stunning however and I take way too many pictures.

From here we fly across Lacrosse Island and then into the Cambridge Gulf passing over Adolphus Island and Wyndham before heading back to Kununurra.

We swoop back into Kununurra crossing the Ord one more time. Poor Cathy has unfortunately been sick the whole way so I quickly exchange details with her so I can send her some of my photos.

Rob and I had a wonderful time. A little bumpy over the thermals at times but wow her what a thrilling afternoon.

Wednesday 31 July 2024

Bungle Bungle Tour

Big day today. We are out for day being collected at 8:15 for our flight South over lake Argyle and to the Bungle Bungles where we will hop on a bus tour for the day including a hike into the Bungles!

We are in a bigger plane; a Cessna Caravan this time, with 13 guests in total and our pilot is Dan. Rob and I get the bench seat right at the back so have lots of leg room.

Our flight path today takes the opposite of yesterday and we soon fly over Kimberleyland Caravan park where we are staying; see if you can find the wee beastie in the photo, before following the Ord or Lake Kununurra as it’s known at this stage because it is dammed at both ends and holds a continuous level of water; to one centimeter. We then cross over farmland, including of all things Cotton!

Kununurra means black soil by the way. And there is so much water out here it’s mind boggling.

We are in a bigger plane and we soon jump over a range and see the amazing Lake Argyle stretching before us. 67km long one way and 10km across the other, it holds 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour, around 10,763 gigalitres and due to this is classified as an inland sea with the same maritime regulations!

We soon cross over the amazing wave like formations of the Osborne Ranges. An absolute marvel and I see a circular area at the end and I wonder if maybe they are due to a long ago meteor hitting the earth?

Our pilot informs us that we have cross into Purnululu National Park (pronounced Burnululu)and that the Bungle Bungles are just ahead and soon enough there they are. A breathtaking sight in their unusualness.

Interestingly they were only discovered in 1982 by two film makers making a documentary about outback WA. They heard word of some unusual rocks to be seen so hired chopper pilots to take them there. These formations are unusual as they are sandstone underneath and the crusted striating colours come from rust and Cyanobacteria which creates the green in the wet and black in the dry. The crust is very thin and takes years to develop so they are quite delicate and they are white underneath.

In the late 80’s the Bungle Bungles along with Shark Bay in WA were listed under UNESCO. Interesting that the Bungle Bungles and the Stromatolites found in Shark Bay are both formed from Cyanobacteria.

After circling around the Bungle Bungles for a bit we land, then having morning tea; butter cakes, tea and coffee, before jumping on our bus. Our tour guides Mardi and Nigel will look after us today.

The bus ride is about 25 minutes and we stop for photo opportunities a couple of time before arriving at The Domes where we will do a walk to Cathedral Gorge.

We set off, stopping periodically as Mardi talks about the landscape.

As we walk I smell a burnt caramel smell and soon after Mardi mentions it and explains it’s the sticky sap from the spinifex grass growing everywhere. The sap has medicinal properties and can be used to close wounds and provides antibacterial properties that promote healing.

As we head into Cathedral Gorge, Mardi pulls us off onto a ledge and in a hushed voice quietly tells us this is a place of initiation and then points up and we see some rock art.

It about 10degrees cooler in the cathedral and you can see why it’s so named with the cavernous ceiling arching above. The pool is sacred and must not be stepped in or drank from according to cultural lore from the Djaru and Gija tribes that use these lands.

Rob and I walk around the pool to the rocks at the back for our lunch break.

It’s very peaceful and a good place for quiet reflection as we enjoy our meal.

After lunch we make our way out of the cool of the cathedral and back into the Gorge, heading back the way we came. On the bus we head back to Bellburn airstrip to drop four people off for helicopter flights before we make our way to Savannah lodge for afternoon tea of fruit and cake.

Once back at Bellburn we’re herded back onto the plane and are soon in the air. Our return flight takes us over the Northern part of the Bungles and Pickaninny Gorge. A grade 6 multi day hike.

We then fly over the Osborne ranges again and then the now defunct Argyle Diamond mine.

As we head into Kununurra the pilot swoops around to land over the Ord River and I take the photo below and then as I look down I swear I see a big crocodile in the water!!!

All in all it’s been a fascinating few days and a privilege to see so much of this unique part of the world.

A big thank you to my darling Rob whose idea it was that we take these tours.

Tomorrow we leave Kununurra and head to Mt Barnett via the Gibb River Road. our off road adventure begins.

Take care, stay safe and love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Katherine NT to Kununurra & Wyndham WA

Locations: Victoria River, Saddle Camp, Timber Creek, Kununurra, Wyndham

Regions: Katherine NT,

Dates: Saturday 27 July – Sunday 28 July 2024

Temperatures: 18 – 34 degrees, sunny, overcast, scattered showers.

Saturday 27 July 2024

Katherine to Saddle Rest Stop 339 km’s (100 East of Kununurra).

Total Trip kilometre’s: 4144

Temp 19 – 31 overcast, some showers

We set off about 9am with a longish day driving. Not far out of Katherine on the Victoria Highway west we pass several convoys of army vehicles.

The landscape is dry with sparse trees and termite mounds. I look up and see a Bustard right on the side of the road, on the left! Darn missed getting a picture. He was a big one too. Not long after on the other side of the road I see two more. Missed again!

As we approach Judbarra NP it starts to drizzle and we see puddles in the roadside. The air becomes sweetly scented by the native grassland, trees and a hint of ozone. Escarpments rise majestically as we come into Victoria River and the views are breathtaking beautiful. The teasing rain bringing the outback colours of ochre, russet, yellow and green to life and we start to see lots of Boab trees

We cross the Victoria River Bridge and stop at the Roadhouse to admire the ranges around us.

We continue on as we have for another 100kms or so to our camp for the night, Saddle Rest stop

We stop again just past Victoria River as the landscape is one escarpment after another and the views are non stop. The dry land has returned to grassland with many trees small and tall and some of the Boab trees are double, some triple with the girth of a small silo and the Victoria River is beside us on the right.

The rest stop when we arrive is nearly full but we fortunately find a spot and our backdrop is yet another towering escarpment.

Rob gets out the Starlink to watch the Lions v Gold Coast in the second Q Clash for the season and I bake a loaf of bread and some sourdough crackers while we watch the game. A win for the Lions 🦁 yay! Eighth in a row I think?

Dinner is a pasta and salad as I use up the last of our fresh vegetables before the border crossing tomorrow.

Sunday 28 July 2024

Saddle to Kununurra 110 km’s

Total trip km’s: 4154

Temperature: 16 – 28

A hot night, eventually cooling with a breeze around 4:30am and we wake up to a cool drizzle gray morning. Not what I expected for up here.

We have a leisurely start with coffee, bacon and eggs before doing a final check on all things fruit and vegetables and I find a packet of slightly dried “fresh” basil hiding in the fridge. Darn I could have used that last night in the pasta sauce! Oh well.

We set off and the escarpment we were parked under continues for some way and morning showers again bring all the colours to life.

We cross into WA and the border quarantine check is quick and easy.

The only thing I didn’t think about was some frozen Thyme in the freezer which is a no no due to the woody stem. The officer appreciates my efforts though so no fine thankfully and then she offers us an extra 1.5hours today due to the time change!

Our first views on Kununurra are a Croc Wise sign and then a wetland as we come into town

We are staying in Kununurra for four nights as Rob has organise two tours, one to Mitchell Falls and a second to the Bungle Bungles. We check in, then do groceries and return and set up the van and as it’s still not quite midday decide to drive to Wyndham, another 200km’s there and back for the afternoon.

Wyndham is a port town in the gulf and the juncture of five rivers and we are told well worth a visit.

Molly Springs

22km from Kununurra towards Wyndham and down a rough 3km track is a lovely spot to swim with a little waterfall. Rob swims then gets out to take photos and moments after I get out of the water a fellow in the water start screaming “snake in the water”! Rob manages to get a photo when it clears the water at the tree just behind me in the third photo below and it looks like a brown!

Oh the fun of the outback!

We continue on and our next stop is The Grotto, a waterhole surrounded by 80m vertical cliffs. It has 140 stone and concrete steps you can take down to view it and of course we do. Imagining all the while what it would look like with waterfalls around all sides during the wet.

The Grotto

Back in the car, Rob and I both find an odd similarity in the landscape with Scotland! The road undulates through soaring hills that are sparse and dry, similar to some of the valleys we passed through in Scotland on the West 500 in 2019. The difference is the lack of wet green that you see in Scotland but it’s still eerily familar?

Maggie’s Valley

Approaching Wyndham we come around a bend and into a stunning Valley known as Maggie’s Valley. I can see why she loved it here so much.

The Big Croc

We arrive Wyndham and find the big croc! What a beauty!

The Big Boab

This tree is over 2000 years old!

Wyndham Port

Our next stop is Wyndham Port. Gazetted in 1886 the port serviced the cattle industry and gold prospectors and at one point was home to the biggest abattoir in the Southern Hemisphere at the time.

Five Rivers Lookout

Our next and last stop on our whistle stop tour of Wyndham today is the Five Rivers Lookout and a must see if you visit the area. The lookout is high with nearly 360 degree views of the surrounding area and it’s stunning with views over the Ord, Durack, Forrest, King and Pentecost Rivers.

A great place for sunset but very overcast today.

Wow we have had a busy weekend and we are both delighted by what we’ve seen so far of the Kimberley and we are both looking forward to our tours this week very much.

We hope you all had a good weekend too. Stay safe and take care of each other.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Barkly Homestead Qld to Mataranka NT

Dates: Thursday 18 July – Monday 22 July 2024

Locations: Frewina Wetlands, Rockhampton Downs, Three Ways, Tennant Creek, Attack Creek, WWII Gorrie Airfield, Mataranka.

Regions: Barkly Tableland NT

Temperatures: 5 – 25

Thursday 18 July 2024

Barkly Homestead to Tennant Creek 212 km’s and 72 to Attack Creek

Total trip kilometres 2760

Temperature: 5 – 20 sunny, windy

We pass Frewina wetlands that stretch out from both sides of the highway and there are birds everywhere.

We pass Rockhampton Downs Station 10:25am (no pic) and there is evidence of fire on both sides of the highway at different times

About 60 km’s from Three Ways and the Stuart Highway we are constantly slowed to 60km/hr and we experience big sections of flood damaged road; from the NT flood earlier this year, and crews working on it so it’s a slow section.

We turn left at the Stuart Highway junction and head down to Tennant Creek, 24km’s for a bit of nostalgia.

We pass the Historical Telegraph Homestead and the Mini Pebbles turn but continue on. At Lake Mary Ann we turn so I can revisit. I have a picture of me under the sign on the highway, taken in 1988 and it was Mary Ann Dam in those days.

The town feels familiar but changed of course after 37 years. We drive around as I try to hunt out past residencies but it’s too long ago. I can’t even remember which streets!

In the way back we stop at Three Ways, still on my nostalgic tour. There is a fellow tiling and a few people drinking. I remember the pool table and the juke box but I think the layout has changed.

We continue on and camp at Attack Creek 72km’s from Tennant Creek.

We both relax for an hour before preparing dinner, Steak, Corn on the cob and Broccolini done on the Ziggy and I bake my current loaf after its second proofing.

Friday 19 July 2024

Attack Creek to WWII Gorrie Airfield 431 km’s

Total Trip Km’s 3184

Temperature 7 – 25 degrees sunny

After a busy few days we agree to a slower start today and set off around 10am. I’m still unwell. I thought my cold was lifting yesterday afternoon but feel heavy with it this morning.

Found these interesting prints around the van… bird or something else?

We are heading to a camp near Mataranka called WWII Gorrie Camp today.

Nearly as soon as we set off the landscape begins to green and every creek has water. Morphett Creek is absolutely full of birds and pelicans but I miss getting a photo. Oh well, then we see an escarpment.

Major roadworks just before Renner Springs slow us down a little.

We see Lake Woods Conservation Covenant off in the distance on the left as we approach Elliott. A large body of water.

We arrive Elliott and refuel, stretch our legs with a quick break and continue North. We pass Newcastle Waters rest area on a rise not long after with glimpses of a wetland in the distance to the right.

Continuing on we stop at the Sir Charles Todd Memorial and read about the Frew Ponds overland Telegraph Line. The last connecting piece joining North and South is about 4km West. The Telegraph, made possible by John Douall’s 1862 exploration was conceived by Charles Todd and constructed over 3 years connecting North and South and making communication that once took months by land and sea between Australia and Great Britain possible within minutes.

This is where we notice dragonflies, they are everywhere and as we travel we continue to see them for miles. The landscape continues to change. We now have tall trees, Eucalyptus and Wattle, russet grasses and pink button grass. And cattle on the highway!

We pass Larrimah Springs and pull into see the Historic Hotel and the Pink Panther.and our camp is just 10 km’s away.

A lovely quiet spot off the highway and another terrific sunset.

Lamb Shanks in Red wine and Cauliflower Mash for dinner.

Saturday 20 July 2024

WWII Gorrie Airfield to Bitter Springs, Mataranka NT 65 Km’s

Total trip km’s 3251

Temperatures 7 – 27 degrees

My cold is starting to lift so we enjoy a lovely morning walk up the airstrip and back. We see lots of little birds flitting about and about 8 kangaroos

On the way back a young man, camping with 3 others; two couples from France as it turns out, stops us asking for advice on his tyre. We take a look and it’s showing signs of wear with a bit of balding, damage from Kakadu trails he thinks but he is also very loaded up in the back and has a rooftop camper. He wants to know if it will make it to Cairns?

It’s a good question. Maybe? If he takes it easier and reduces the tyre pressure a bit.? We check he has a spare and the other tyres. The other back one is showing wear too. We talk about the risk of blowout and suggest Mt Isa might be better to get them changed over. Talk turns to travel, they are all on working visa’s, have done their obligatory 88 farm days in WA near Kununurra and are now traveling across to and then down the East Coast. We wish them a safe journey and I hope the tyre holds for them until they can get it fixed.

We set down and as we are about to head off an identical Isuzu drives in towing a van. Margaret and David are from Sale, Victoria. They are also off to Bitter Springs tomorrow so we plan to catch up.

We head off and it’s a short drive to Mataranka. The day is warming up and we pass some large termite mounds and then wetlands.

As soon as we park up we change and head down to the springs, a short walk away about 500m. When we arrive at the viewing platform a fellow mention he’s just seen a crocodile! He is rattled and gotten his children out of the water. There are signs advising there are fresh water crocodile’s in the area but we are fairly confident they wouldn’t let people swim if there was much risk.

The water is a gorgeous turquoise colour and beautifully warm, about 34 degrees. We really enjoy a leisurely circuit on our pool noodles letting the current take us.

There are quite a few people here. I’ve managed to avoid most in the photos, thankfully.

The afternoon is taken up with some washing and then we go for a late afternoon walk back to the springs. I’m hoping to take a picture of, or even see an Azure Kingfisher.

When we arrive a fellow with a tripod shows me a photo of a freshwater crocodile he’s just taken!

It’s a decent size and he’s sure it’s still about. We wait for a while at the lookout but don’t see anything and then follow the spring around. It’s quiet and the colours of the trees and the water are amazing but no Kingfisher’s appear. Oh well!

On the way back the fellow says we’ve missed the croc moving down the spring and he points to where he thinks he is. Top right of my photo.

An exciting day. We finish with an early dinner of leftover lamb shanks and an early night.

Sunday 21 July 2024

Bitter Springs.

Temp 7-23, cool overnight, sunny day.

Today we are heading to Mataranka homestead and the springs there followed by a walk. This is the spring I remember visiting during the time I lived in the NT in the late 1980’s.

It is a more formal pool now with concrete and fiberglass enclosing the pool with rocks. We enjoy a lovely dip.

The one I remember was more like bitter springs with natural edges but round and not very big. After our swim we start our walk and we find a spring that fits my memory but no swimming allowed. It looks like there is a big thermal release happening so maybe that is why?

Continuing our walk we trek 1.2km’s through the tropical forest then out into arid bushland parallel to the Roper River and Stevie’s hole. No swimming her due to crocodile activity and currents.

On the way back I get a fair picture of a whistling kite. Our constant companion in the skies up here.

Monday 22 July 2024

Temperature: 12 -23, sunny

Today we are doing the Mataranka Falls hike, about 10km’s. My cold is continuing to improving so I’m hopeful of a good walk. The trail begins about 24 km’s from Mataranka near a campground and there are other trails nearby. The trail starts with a Crocodile safety sign which is ironic in a way because some of the walk is right on the waters edge – see first dot point on sign!!!

The track starts with a creek crossing then meanders through the bush cutting to and away from the Roper River.

It’s a lovely sunny morning and the track is fairly easy to walk with tantalizing glimpses of the river and its creeks.

As the track meanders it changes from rock and packed clay to large sections of sand. I start looking for tracks and soon enough come across a section with lots of snake tracks!

I’m just thinking to myself that these look recent, when I look to my left and I’m just walking past a snake! I continue moving away and then turn at a safe distance and take a couple of pictures. What a beauty!

Later I try to identify. I think it’s a black whip snake but missed seeing his tail which is red on this Venomous NT snake, so I’m not 100% sure?

We see so many snakes while hiking, I no longer get wobbly with adrenaline but rather excited and we both have a very healthy respect for them and our safety.

The next section of the walk takes us along cliffs and becomes tropical.

We reach the end of the walk and the falls are actually more like rapids, the area is very tropical and again we are very close to the water!

We head back and on the way see our version of the famous Wanaka Tree in NZ. A tree growing in the middle of water!

I also see more tracks in the sand… maybe this one is a Goanna?

When we arrive back at the park I see a big Brahman cow who obviously is owned by the park. We’ve seen lots of these up here.

We are off to Katherine tomorrow.

Stay safe and take care of each other.

Lots of love, Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Longreach, QLD to Barkly Homestead, NT

Dates: Saturday 13 July – Wednesday 17 July 2024

Locations: Longreach, Winton, Kynuna, Cloncurry, Mary Kathleen

Regions: Outback Qld, Barkly Tableland NT

Temperature: 7 – 25 degrees

Longreach to Winton

Saturday 13 July 2024, 180 kilometres

Total trip kilometres 1460

Temp: 7 – 23 cool morning, sunny

We are heading to Winton today but first up we attend to a bit of washing and cleaning in the van and getting it set to go. We keep a big 20 litre bucket under the van for waste water drips and while here we’ve had the waste water pipe out also and as Rob goes to pack it all away he finds 3 dead rats, drowned in the bucket!

Our last post mentioned the rat problem in the Outback at present and this is definitely one of the not so nice sides to camping. We think they crawled up the pipe and either fell or jumped in and then couldn’t get out.

After setting the van we head into town as the CWA have showers for a donation and there’s also a market from 9 – 12pm.

We meet Gwen at the CWA, she is 90 and volunteers 1 day a week to different aspects of the CWA. Today she’s looking after the showers and she has made scones.

We enjoy a quick shower then spend about half an hour enjoying Gwen’s company, her scones with jam and cream and a cup of tea. Gwen tells about her time as president, traveling the Longreach district and all about the Lake Dunn Sculpture trail. The Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail is a 200 kilometre circuit that loops between Aramac, Lake Dunn and Jericho. Along its route you’ll find 40 sculptural installations showcasing Outback elements and life, from emu families to jackaroos. Not for us this trip but something to consider if your headed out this way. Sounds awesome!

We head back to the van and are on the road by about 11am.

We arrive Winton mid afternoon and after setting up at our camp, meet our neighbouring travellers who advise there are rats here too unfortunately, more on that later…

We then head into town to see the Opal Festival. Unfortunately though we are latecomers and most of the stall holders have packed up. One fellow shows me a few samples of Boulder Opal though and they are entrancing. The red, green, gold and blue colours dance as if alive amidst the stone and I briefly wish I was in the market.

We then head out to the musical fence, a whimsical collection of metal objects and a fence that can be used to make music if you’re talented enough. We do have a go but neither of us strikes a chord. Nearby is a nod to the QANTAS history.

Back into town and we walk the Main Street and it’s charming with its beautiful old pubs and the Waltzing Matilda museum with the statue of Banjo Paterson out front. Across the road there is another statue of the swagman from his most famous poem, written not very far from Winton.

We visit Arno’s wall with its collection of everything engineering and then visit the Australian Hotel for Happy Hour and are lucky enough to catch bush poet Gregory North right before he recites that most famous poem – The Man from Snowy River and other famous works by Banjo Paterson including the story of the writing of Waltzing Matilda.

We return to the van just in time for another gorgeous sunset and after dinner we catch up with our neighbours Cheryl and Doug for a drink around their campfire.

Winton Sunday 14 July 2024

Temp 7 – 23 cool morning, sunny

Age of Dinosaurs Winton

Rob had booked our Age of Dinosaurs tour for 10:30 so we leave the van around 9:30 as it’s 24 kilometre’s from Winton back towards Longreach and we also camped about 5 kilometres out of Winton on the Jundah road.

The age of dinosaurs site is in the Blandenburg National park high up on an escarpment. After the turn off the A2 highway we see a flock of whistling kites and then two Wedgetail eagles tussling over some small prey. Maybe a rat!

The Age of Dinosaurs is a great place to visit. Everything from the lab; didn’t know you can volunteer and get training to work on dinosaur bones, to the collection room and March of the Titanosaurs it is a must see.

On the way back we see a flock of emus and we take a picture of the Winton sign, there is a bolt behind the “I” which allows you to replace the I. Thought that was very cool and fun too.

Monday 15 July 2024

Winton to Cloncurry 440 km’s

Total Km’s 1938 including side trips.

Mary Kathleen (West of Cloncurry) to Mt Isa 65 km then on to Camooweal 180km

Temp 7 – 22, cool morning, sunny

Pass Ayrshire Creek, a series of plateaus.

100km’s from Winton we see a tabby cat trying to cross the road and then a while later I see a black cat off to the side of the road with a huge monitor lizard less than a metre away. It’s a strange sight and I wonder if one is stalking the other? I also see another Australian Bustard standing alone in the grass.

We stop at Kynuna Roadhouse for a break around lunch and munch on sandwiches while watching four Brolgas casually strolling around.

Continuing on the highway we see several large flocks of kites, wheeling and circling on thermals above the highway usually over fresh road kill.

We pass through McKinnon and the Walkabout Creek Hotel, made famous by the movie “Crocodile Dundee”

Our camp for the night is at Mary Kathleen an abandoned and dismantled town 60 km South of Mt Isa, West of Cloncurry.

Tuesday 15 July 2024

Total trip km’s 2191

Temp 5 to 20 sunny

We drive into Mt Isa, 60km’s enjoying the hilly scenery on the way in.

We shop for groceries at the local Coles, visit the pharmacy and then have a pub lunch at the Mt Isa Hotel. Rob has a steak and I have a Korean poke bowl. The meals are very nice.

We then walk back through the town then visit the Caravan dump point and fill the water tanks.

We continue on, thinking to either stop at a WWII camp site 60kms out of Mt Isa or further on at Camooweal. 180km’s away.

The landscape begins to resemble an ocean of dry tufted grasses moving with the wind and it feels a bit like being ship in an inland sea. Small trees dot the horizon which shimmers in the afternoon sun.

The WWII memorial mentions the building of the Barkley Highway; previously just a dirt road, during WWII as part of the defensive effort to protect Northern Australia. The camp is just off the highway and already well occupied. It’s just before 3pm so we decide to continue on.

We arrive Camooweal around 5pm and camp literally on the Georgina River creek-bed. It’s a beautiful spot with lots of birds either side of the bridge resting on the riverbanks and the sunset is amazing.

I make a quick spiced pumpkin soup for our dinner and I relax in bed enjoying the Masterchef finale (no spoilers here) while Rob reads in frustration about the AFL Tribunal findings against Charlie Cameron. The consensus online is that it’s a rubbish decision and once again very Melbourne Centric!

The cold I started a few days ago is gaining momentum so it’s an early night.

Wednesday 16 July 2024

Camooweal to Barkly Homestead NT 260 km’s

Total trip km’s 2455

Temperature: 5 – 20, very cool start, sunny and a stiff breeze

Locations: Camooweal, Avon Downs, Soudan, Barkly Homestead

Regions: Outback Qld, Barkly Tableand NT

After starting a loaf and making some discard sourdough cracker dough to bake later we set down and head off. My head cold is now raging and I have a roaring head and face ache which is a bit disappointing as it’s the SOO (State of Origin) decider tonight, our NRL ( National Rugby League) annual contest between NSW and QLD.

We set off and about 30km’s down the Barkly Highway we cross into the NT.

Over the border the landscape on both sides of the highway flattens to a sea of never ending sea of spinifex.

Another 80km’s on we pass Avon Downs station on the left and the Avon Police station on the right. There is no fuel or service here so no reason to stop.

The rest area just before the station has the stories of Thomas Guthrie’s establishment in 1882 and one of the longest sheep droving routes in Australia from Donald, Victoria to Avon downs, Northern Territory, 16 months and 3500 kilometres starting with 11,000 sheep and arriving with 4000! There’s more on this driving at the Stockman’s Hall of fame.

Another 60 or so km’s we pass Soudan Station and see Stockman preparing cattle for transport. We’ve seen many of these road trains with four, sometimes five carriages.

Next up and closer to Barkly Homestead we pass a wetland. Full of birdlife and the landscape is now peppered with Termite mounds. The are everywhere! Some as large as cars.

We arrive Barkly Homestead about 1:30 (1:00 NT time) and after set down we both shower which perks me up no end. Theres’s just something so relaxing; for me anyway, about having my head under water.

My cold is raging though so after lunch and a load of washing. I rest for a bit. We then go to happy hour and I catch up on the phone with my daughter Carly, always a treat. Then it’s another rest before a late dinner and SOO Final.

The mood is festive and there are many people dress in Blue and Maroon. About equal which I’m very pleased about. I set up chats with fellow Blues supporters Grant in Qld and Heather in NSW and Rob does the same with fellow Qldr Michael and his daughter Kat. The rivalry and banter is fun.

The game is a cracker with great defense from both sides and only a penalty goal to Qld right before the end of the first half. There’s a bit of biff and Rob I playfully argue about which side started it. Qld of course haha!

We enjoy our meal during half time, a Barkly burger for Rob and Calamari and salad with chips for me.

The second half continues to be a tussle but Qld starts to show signs of fatigue and NSW takes the lead with a try and then another with a conversion. NSW win the match hurrah!

We finish the night chatting to two NSW supporters sitting behind us and then talk turns to travel plans.

All in all a great night and the Barkly Homestead is a great place to visit if you’re travelling the great Outback. Be sure not to miss it. I have many memories of visits here when I lived at Tennant Creek during the late 80’s so it’s great to see that it’s bigger, better and thriving.

On to Tennant Creek tomorrow. Should be a blast from the past. Love to all. Stay safe and warm!

Maryann and Rob

Aussie Lap – Mount Coolum Housesit

Location: Mount Coolum, Qld

Region: Sunshine Coast

Dates: 4 June – 2 July 2024

Temperatures: 8 – 23 degrees

Hello lovely people, I hope this finds you all well and thriving!

I’m writing from our Housesit House in beautiful Mount Coolum on the Qld Sunshine Coast and pondering how time flies. It seems only days; not weeks ago, that we arrived and tomorrow we leave here.

Before we came to the Sunny Coast our first week in Qld was in Coominya, where we shared a few wonderful catch-ups with family and friends and we’ve had a couple up here at Mount Coolum too. It’s been wonderful to see everyone after being away this past 12 months.

You may have noticed I’m very behind with the blog. This is due to having struck an internet access issue back in April whilst in Victoria due to my VPN security program and it took weeks to sort out.

Never fear though, I’m planning to catch up a few posts over the next week before we hit the road again on the 8th July and will continue to post so more to come.

When we set off again, we have a relatively quick 5 week trip planned across to WA as we have a date with the horizontal falls off of the WA coast at Derby in mid August.

Our plan is to head West then North in Qld, making our way to Charleville, Longreach and then Mt Isa. Crossing into the NT at Three Ways we will then head North to Katherine then West into WA to Kununurra and across to Derby via the Gibb River track, hopefully spending a couple of weeks exploring the Gibb River area, weather & track conditions permitting of course as there is about 600km of gravel road.

All up about 4300 kilometres!

It’s been a lovely relaxing four weeks here at Mount Coolum looking after little Mogwai, a very cute Shih Tzu.

It’s such a great lifestyle, a quiet community and kilometer’s of quiet beach either way. Lots of doggies too which is nice.

Here’s a pictorial of our days…

The days have been made up of slow walks with Mogs on the pathways and on the beach. Lots of bike rides, reading, writing and lovely evenings listening to the waves lulling us to sleep. Thank you to Kathy and Gary for allowing us to housesit and look after their little dog Mogwai.

Rob has also been very busy spending quality time and helping his daughter with some bigger jobs on her property at Coominya. He is a wonderful dad!

If you’re in Qld I’m sure you’ve been enjoying the sunny winter weather. May and June have long been my favourite months of the year here.

Just one more thing before I go.

Go the Blues! Best of luck for the decider on the 17th July. Rob would also add Go the Maroons! Always a fun contest in our house.

Love to all. Stay safe, be kind and look after yourselves. xx

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

Locations: Orroroo, Jamestown, Peterborough, Clare

Regions: Adelaide City & Adelaide Hills; Barossa

Dates: Sunday 17 March – Thursday 21 March 2024

Temperatures: 9 – 32 Degrees

Sunday 17 March 2024, 15 – 32 degrees

Showers overnight and our first rain in months so it is a beautiful dawn at Walloway and the hills roll out all around us.

After breaking camp at RM Williams Way we head into Orroroo for a look.

We find our way to the Giant Red gum tree, said to be over 500 years old, nearly 11 metres circumference and over 60 metres high. What a beauty and home to 100’s of budgerigars.

Next we walk around Orroroo, exploring the charming Main Street then further afield to see some of the heritage trail buildings.

Next we head to Peterborough our camp for the night at the Showgrounds.

Once setup we walk into town. In the 20th century, this town was once the crossroads geographically and a rich hub for locomotives, Peterborough; originally Petersburg after the original land owner, now heroes “steam town” with a rich historical collection of all things steam train.

Monday 18 March, 15 – 31degrees sunny

Heading for the Clare Valley today we pass through Jamestown, the birthplace of RM Williams. Reginald Murray, one of Australia’s most iconic figures has a much bigger presence in the stockman’s hall of fame at Longreach I believe but it’s nice to see his hometown honouring their local lad. Interesting to read about his involvement in the Nepabunna settlement which we passed to and from Arkaroola just days before.

Continuing on we arrive in Clare and park in long bay parking. We have one more night off grid tonight and our camp is out at Blyth (10km South) before coming back into Clare to the caravan park tomorrow.

We take a walk around Clare, exploring part of the Riesling trail on foot and finding a nod to Monica McInerney (favourite author of “Hello from the Gillespie”) in the form of artwork along the way. of Irish descent, Monica grew up in Clare and her childhood home is just across the road from the artwork. How amazing to stumble across and one of the reasons I love travelling- you just never know what you will find.

Returning to the van we see a seat in front of a big gum tree and it turns out the tree was a resting spot for the Camel Funeral with the remains of Burke and Wills on the way from Innamincka to Melbourne in 1862 as well as early explorers from as early as 1839!

Onward to Blyth and a Golden Sunset.

Tuesday, 19 March 2024, 15-25 degrees and much cooler.

After starting a sourdough loaf and setting the van ready to move, we take a walk around Blyth. Quiet and full of beautiful old buildings and houses. It makes me think of the 1945 play, Blythe Spirit by Noel Coward.

We head into Clare, set down at the park and the rest of the day is taken up with washing and cleaning the van.

Wednesday, 20 March 2024, 9-20 degrees with our first chilly morning.

Morning hike – the Cascades Walk.

Short; 1.4km return, lovely walk with views of the gully below and out to Vincent Gulf through stands of Red Stringy Bark and Blue Gum Eucalyptus trees along the ridge line.

Referred to as islands from a conservation perspective, as the plains below were all but cleared of the same trees when the area was settled in the 1800’s.

After our hike in the hills we drive further down the valley to Seven Hills and the Skillogalee winery set in an historic cottage with views of vineyards and rolling hills. We enjoy a tasting while soaking up the Autumn sunshine. Our favourite, the sparkling Riesling.

On the way back we stop at Horrocks cottage, circa 1839 at Penwortham.

Thursday 21 March 2024, 9 – 26 degrees and sunny

We were planning to cycle some of the Riesling trail today but my bike is misbehaving with sticky brakes resulting in a spills and a skinned knee, so I decide to walk into town instead while Rob does a ride. Afterwards we head up to to do a ridgeline walk.

Great views but very windy!

After lunch we head out to on our favourite wineries – Taylor’s. We enjoy a fun filled tasting with lots of local stories from our host Robert!

A lovely few days in Clare for sure! Tomorrow we head to the Barossa Valley for the weekend.

Love to all, be kind, love one another and stay safe.

Aussie Lap – Bathurst to Morgan

Location: Bathurst, Wombat, Bethungra, Hay, Wentworth, Morgan

Regions: Nepean – Blue Mountains, Central West and Far West NSW

State: New South Wales

Time: 24 July – 27 July 2023

Average Temperatures: -4.0 – 22 degrees

Reason: Travelling Australia – visiting family

After a lovely week in Bathurst we set out for Morgan in South Australia with about 1060 km of travel so we planned to take four days to get there.

First stop after leaving Bathurst was Wombat, which mainly consists of a pub! Wombat is about 20 km’s from my hometown of Harden and I had promised Rob a beer there one day so we stopped in and had a lovely chat to the owner who told us the pub was for sale. It had been closed the last time we went past so hopefully someone buys the charming country pub!

Our first overnight stay was at a camp by donation at Bethungra which is between Cootamundra and Junee. A lovely little camp with a a great camp kitchen, organised by locals who have done a great job! We visited Bethungra Dam and the Rail Spiral the next day before leaving which was fascinating and well worth a visit.

The second day, saw us travelling to Hay, which is halfway between Sydney and Adelaide and a place I’ve always enjoyed travelling through, with the wide plains either side but despite promising Rob Emu’s and Camel’s we only saw 2 Emu’s (no photo though). At Hay we camped at Sandy Point on the Murrumbidgee River, part of the Murray-Darling system and still in flood after recent rain.

We aim to walk around each town we stay in and Hay has Silo Art which depicts images of those who fought in WWII. I was reading that Hay had an extraordinary amount of enlistment for a regional town and the subsequent number of lives lost deeply affected the area.

Out last overnight was at Wentworth just outside Mildura. Another free camp on the Murray just past the conjunction of the Darling River and Lock 5, a really lovely spot. We had a campfire too, which was a treat.

Aussie Lap – Toowoomba to Bathurst

Location: Toowoomba, Moree, Eumengerie, Bathurst

Regions: New England, Western NSW and Nepean – Blue Mountains

State: Queensland and New South Wales

Time: 15 July – 24 July 2023

Average Temperatures: -0.4 – 13 degrees

Reason: First week of travelling Australia – visiting family

After many years of planning we finally set off from Toowoomba early on 15th July 2023. First stop Bathurst NSW then Morgan SA to visit family and we then plan to head West to Perth for a special Birthday!

The first day of travel went well as we travelled from Toowoomba through Goondiwindi to Moree in just under 4 hours. We plan to travel slowly about 250 – 300 kms per day but as we were delayed due to the first service on the van we did about 330kms. We stayed at the Discovery park which was old but clean and with lots of hot water. The thermal springs (hot and cold) were a treat too. Moree has a lovely walking track along the river and an Art trail.

On the second day of travel we took an AllTrails walk in Pilliga National park on the Sandstone Caves Circuit (about 25kms outside Coonabarabran). A 1.7km loop medium grade circuit with some steps, past 5 significant caves, some with Aboriginal Art and a good lookout over the Pilliga State Forest.

Camped at Eumungerie, outside of Dubbo, very flat camp with power and water. Fires allowed and firewood available. Lovely clear starry skies and brilliant sunset and sunrise. Toilets and cold only showers. Clean and well kept.

Our week in Bathurst was wonderful. Despite some very chilly temperatures (one morning was -4.6, feeling like -9.6!), catching up with my Uncle Tony, and cousins Michael and Mandy and their families was lovely. My sister Kay travelled over from SA too which was special.

During the week we met beautiful baby Jace the new addition to the family, visited Mandy’s co-op Art Gallery, travelled to Leura near Katoomba to help Michael pick up a railway scale he’d bought at auction, had many family dinners (thank you Mandy & Chris and Michael & Karren), visited Michael’s property at The Rocks for a bush walk, visited Mt Panorama, walked and enjoyed the lovely history and architecture of Bathurst including the Carillion which was a favourite landmark of my mum’s and even helped the “Booger Brains” win the local Quiz night!

Best of all we spent lots of time chatting and catching up with family and getting to know the younger ones.