Dates: Thursday 18 July – Monday 22 July 2024
Locations: Frewina Wetlands, Rockhampton Downs, Three Ways, Tennant Creek, Attack Creek, WWII Gorrie Airfield, Mataranka.
Regions: Barkly Tableland NT
Temperatures: 5 – 25
Thursday 18 July 2024
Barkly Homestead to Tennant Creek 212 km’s and 72 to Attack Creek
Total trip kilometres 2760
Temperature: 5 – 20 sunny, windy
We pass Frewina wetlands that stretch out from both sides of the highway and there are birds everywhere.
We pass Rockhampton Downs Station 10:25am (no pic) and there is evidence of fire on both sides of the highway at different times
About 60 km’s from Three Ways and the Stuart Highway we are constantly slowed to 60km/hr and we experience big sections of flood damaged road; from the NT flood earlier this year, and crews working on it so it’s a slow section.
We turn left at the Stuart Highway junction and head down to Tennant Creek, 24km’s for a bit of nostalgia.
We pass the Historical Telegraph Homestead and the Mini Pebbles turn but continue on. At Lake Mary Ann we turn so I can revisit. I have a picture of me under the sign on the highway, taken in 1988 and it was Mary Ann Dam in those days.
The town feels familiar but changed of course after 37 years. We drive around as I try to hunt out past residencies but it’s too long ago. I can’t even remember which streets!
In the way back we stop at Three Ways, still on my nostalgic tour. There is a fellow tiling and a few people drinking. I remember the pool table and the juke box but I think the layout has changed.
We continue on and camp at Attack Creek 72km’s from Tennant Creek.
We both relax for an hour before preparing dinner, Steak, Corn on the cob and Broccolini done on the Ziggy and I bake my current loaf after its second proofing.
Friday 19 July 2024
Attack Creek to WWII Gorrie Airfield 431 km’s
Total Trip Km’s 3184
Temperature 7 – 25 degrees sunny
After a busy few days we agree to a slower start today and set off around 10am. I’m still unwell. I thought my cold was lifting yesterday afternoon but feel heavy with it this morning.
Found these interesting prints around the van… bird or something else?
We are heading to a camp near Mataranka called WWII Gorrie Camp today.
Nearly as soon as we set off the landscape begins to green and every creek has water. Morphett Creek is absolutely full of birds and pelicans but I miss getting a photo. Oh well, then we see an escarpment.
Major roadworks just before Renner Springs slow us down a little.
We see Lake Woods Conservation Covenant off in the distance on the left as we approach Elliott. A large body of water.
We arrive Elliott and refuel, stretch our legs with a quick break and continue North. We pass Newcastle Waters rest area on a rise not long after with glimpses of a wetland in the distance to the right.
Continuing on we stop at the Sir Charles Todd Memorial and read about the Frew Ponds overland Telegraph Line. The last connecting piece joining North and South is about 4km West. The Telegraph, made possible by John Douall’s 1862 exploration was conceived by Charles Todd and constructed over 3 years connecting North and South and making communication that once took months by land and sea between Australia and Great Britain possible within minutes.
This is where we notice dragonflies, they are everywhere and as we travel we continue to see them for miles. The landscape continues to change. We now have tall trees, Eucalyptus and Wattle, russet grasses and pink button grass. And cattle on the highway!
We pass Larrimah Springs and pull into see the Historic Hotel and the Pink Panther.and our camp is just 10 km’s away.
A lovely quiet spot off the highway and another terrific sunset.
Lamb Shanks in Red wine and Cauliflower Mash for dinner.
Saturday 20 July 2024
WWII Gorrie Airfield to Bitter Springs, Mataranka NT 65 Km’s
Total trip km’s 3251
Temperatures 7 – 27 degrees
My cold is starting to lift so we enjoy a lovely morning walk up the airstrip and back. We see lots of little birds flitting about and about 8 kangaroos
On the way back a young man, camping with 3 others; two couples from France as it turns out, stops us asking for advice on his tyre. We take a look and it’s showing signs of wear with a bit of balding, damage from Kakadu trails he thinks but he is also very loaded up in the back and has a rooftop camper. He wants to know if it will make it to Cairns?
It’s a good question. Maybe? If he takes it easier and reduces the tyre pressure a bit.? We check he has a spare and the other tyres. The other back one is showing wear too. We talk about the risk of blowout and suggest Mt Isa might be better to get them changed over. Talk turns to travel, they are all on working visa’s, have done their obligatory 88 farm days in WA near Kununurra and are now traveling across to and then down the East Coast. We wish them a safe journey and I hope the tyre holds for them until they can get it fixed.
We set down and as we are about to head off an identical Isuzu drives in towing a van. Margaret and David are from Sale, Victoria. They are also off to Bitter Springs tomorrow so we plan to catch up.
We head off and it’s a short drive to Mataranka. The day is warming up and we pass some large termite mounds and then wetlands.
As soon as we park up we change and head down to the springs, a short walk away about 500m. When we arrive at the viewing platform a fellow mention he’s just seen a crocodile! He is rattled and gotten his children out of the water. There are signs advising there are fresh water crocodile’s in the area but we are fairly confident they wouldn’t let people swim if there was much risk.
The water is a gorgeous turquoise colour and beautifully warm, about 34 degrees. We really enjoy a leisurely circuit on our pool noodles letting the current take us.
There are quite a few people here. I’ve managed to avoid most in the photos, thankfully.
The afternoon is taken up with some washing and then we go for a late afternoon walk back to the springs. I’m hoping to take a picture of, or even see an Azure Kingfisher.
When we arrive a fellow with a tripod shows me a photo of a freshwater crocodile he’s just taken!
It’s a decent size and he’s sure it’s still about. We wait for a while at the lookout but don’t see anything and then follow the spring around. It’s quiet and the colours of the trees and the water are amazing but no Kingfisher’s appear. Oh well!
On the way back the fellow says we’ve missed the croc moving down the spring and he points to where he thinks he is. Top right of my photo.
An exciting day. We finish with an early dinner of leftover lamb shanks and an early night.
Sunday 21 July 2024
Bitter Springs.
Temp 7-23, cool overnight, sunny day.
Today we are heading to Mataranka homestead and the springs there followed by a walk. This is the spring I remember visiting during the time I lived in the NT in the late 1980’s.
It is a more formal pool now with concrete and fiberglass enclosing the pool with rocks. We enjoy a lovely dip.
The one I remember was more like bitter springs with natural edges but round and not very big. After our swim we start our walk and we find a spring that fits my memory but no swimming allowed. It looks like there is a big thermal release happening so maybe that is why?
Continuing our walk we trek 1.2km’s through the tropical forest then out into arid bushland parallel to the Roper River and Stevie’s hole. No swimming her due to crocodile activity and currents.
On the way back I get a fair picture of a whistling kite. Our constant companion in the skies up here.
Monday 22 July 2024
Temperature: 12 -23, sunny
Today we are doing the Mataranka Falls hike, about 10km’s. My cold is continuing to improving so I’m hopeful of a good walk. The trail begins about 24 km’s from Mataranka near a campground and there are other trails nearby. The trail starts with a Crocodile safety sign which is ironic in a way because some of the walk is right on the waters edge – see first dot point on sign!!!
The track starts with a creek crossing then meanders through the bush cutting to and away from the Roper River.
It’s a lovely sunny morning and the track is fairly easy to walk with tantalizing glimpses of the river and its creeks.
As the track meanders it changes from rock and packed clay to large sections of sand. I start looking for tracks and soon enough come across a section with lots of snake tracks!
I’m just thinking to myself that these look recent, when I look to my left and I’m just walking past a snake! I continue moving away and then turn at a safe distance and take a couple of pictures. What a beauty!
Later I try to identify. I think it’s a black whip snake but missed seeing his tail which is red on this Venomous NT snake, so I’m not 100% sure?
We see so many snakes while hiking, I no longer get wobbly with adrenaline but rather excited and we both have a very healthy respect for them and our safety.
The next section of the walk takes us along cliffs and becomes tropical.
We reach the end of the walk and the falls are actually more like rapids, the area is very tropical and again we are very close to the water!
We head back and on the way see our version of the famous Wanaka Tree in NZ. A tree growing in the middle of water!
I also see more tracks in the sand… maybe this one is a Goanna?
When we arrive back at the park I see a big Brahman cow who obviously is owned by the park. We’ve seen lots of these up here.
We are off to Katherine tomorrow.
Stay safe and take care of each other.
Lots of love, Maryann and Rob xx
Physio my way 
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