Category Archives: South Australia

Aussie Lap – Morgan SA to Port Campbell and the Great Ocean Road VIC

Locations: Morgan, Bordertown, Port Nelson, Cape Northumberland, Port Campbell, Timboon

Dates: 6-11 November 2024

Regions: Riverland, Barossa and xx South Australia, Barwon South West, Melbourne and Gippsland Victoria

Temperatures: 6-34 degrees

Wednesday 6 November 2024

Morgan to Bordertown SA

Temperature: 12-34, clouds clearing, sunny & hot

Starting km’s 15060

Leaving Morgan today we cross the river and drive East up to Waikerie admiring the silo art, then onto Berri with all the vineyards and wine making facilities at Kingston on Murray before turning South towards Pinnaroo, passing through the Mallee and then onto Bordertown where we camp for the night at the recreational lake.

Dinner is a simple Salmon with ratatouille and pasta while we watch the results of the US election and Trumps victory.

367 km’s today.

Thursday 07 November 2024

Bordertown to Port McDonnell SA

Temperature: 8-22 Sunny but cool morning. Shower or two and wind later for Bordertown

Starting km’s 15427

A lovely cool morning with a breeze and a bright blue sky and it’s always lovely to wake to the sound of many birds enjoying the lake.

RECREATIONAL LAKE

Today we are heading to the coast of Port McDonnell heading directly South all day. We pass through Naracoorte, home of the fossil caves and where the prehistoric Diprotodon, the largest prehistoric mammal was found.

We pass the sculpture and apparently the Diprotodoon looked like a very large 250kg wombat!

DIPROTODON SCULPTURE

Everything is looking very green as we pass pastures and then vineyards as we move through the Coonawara Wine region.

By 11:00am showers start and we have paddock after paddock of vines lining both sides of the road. It’s cool, misty and green and we pass many estates including Wynn’s and Penfolds.

No wine tours today though as we continue South passing through Penola and Mt Gambier where we see a boat replica and pass the famous blue lake that we visited last year.

It’s then a short drive to Port McDonnell and then Cape Northumberland, our camp for tonight and the most Southerly tip of SA, all up just under 200 km’s today.

It’s windy when we arrive and make camp and the BOM reveals a marine wind warning and gusts of up to 65km overnight. It is such a beautiful spot we decide to stay and take what comes.

It’s surely an adventure but there’s not much sleep for me and at 4:30am there’s a storm to boot. The van rocks and the wind howls and I eventually drift off about 6am to snatch a wee bit of sleep!

Friday 08 November 2024

Port McDonnell to Portland

Temperature: 7–22 windy, clearing showers

Starting km’s: 15616

It’s a slow start after a nearly sleepless night but we are away by 9am.

Travelling into Victoria we visit Nelson, having a look at the river houses in the Glenelg River and then as we head to Portland on the Portland-Nelson Road we enter the green triangle – 6M hectares one of Australia’s largest forestry region.

125kms today.

We make camp at Portland RV park and just after we parked I saw a large Koala on the other side of a chain link fence near a pathway bordering the canal. At first it tried to come through the fence but realising it couldn’t and then seeing me it bolted for a tree on the pathway.

Not a Eucalyptus but a Sheoak. He/She looked very fit and healthy but I rang Victoria Wilderness Society to check for its welfare. Apparently Portland has a healthy population of Koala’s and they do roam so everything appeared to be ok. Possibly a male out looking for a mate.

What a cute koala and such a joy to see up close. He was in the tree curled up sleeping about 7 metres up til late afternoon then he was gone.

Saturday 9 November 2024

Portland

Temperature: 8-17 cool & cloudy

This morning Rob’s taking me on one of his mystery tours; he’s so good at these and I’m excited to see where we are going.

First stop was the Gannet Colony. Gannet’s are large seabirds; with a wingspan up to 2 metres, that have taken up the rocky outcrop of Lawrence Rocks at Point Danger just 6km from the city centre of Portland. Over 6000 pairs breed here, laying one egg only. The chick, on maturity will leave the colony to roam the seas for 3-5 years before returning to mate for life and breed. They are fascinating to watch as they skim and dive over the waves as they fish.

Next we head to West Portland, taking in the views before we visit the light house at Cape Nelson.

The next stop on the tour is Cape Bridgewater where the bay is the base of an old extinct volcano. It looks like a lovely spot for summer holidays.

We visit the blowhole and watch the frothy water on the coast.

BLOWHOLE

Next we visit the petrified forest which is only a short walk from the blowhole. It’s not really petrified but a geological phenomenon of sand and limestone that appears tree like.

As we head back into town we pass lots of lovely old cottages, always a favourite for me and one particularly charming example covered with roses takes my eye.

PORTLAND COTTAGE

Sunday 10 November 2024

Portland to Port Campbell VIC

Starting km’s: 15843

Temperature: 8-18 partly cloudy

We head East today, passing through very cute Port Fairy. Rob deviates around the front for a look and it’s a very pretty town. I wish we were stopping but onwards through Warrnambool we go before turning right onto the Great Ocean Road.

The pine forest gives way to groves of Eucalyptus and large stands of Mediterranean Pines and then we get a flips of the Great Ocean at Peterborough.

We camp at Port Campbell, wash everything including us and are back in the car in an hour and a half and of sightseeing.

We turn back towards Peterborough and visit every lookout taking in Port Campbell , London Bridge, the Grotto and the Bay of Islands.

Along the way we met a couple on a trip to Tasmania for a vintage car rally towing an old Green Buick.

Our last stop is the Bay of Islands before picking up dinner tonight of Fish and Chips from Peterborough. Accompanied by Rob’s Vero cocktail which is a version of Appleton spritz we cheers to a great day.

BAY OF ISLANDS

Monday 11 November 2024

Twelve Apostles Marine Park

Temperature: 6-21, cloudy, clearing to sun

Today is a touristy day and our first stop is the Gibson Steps about 12 km’s from Port Campbell heading East.

Next stop is the Twelve Apostles heading back towards Port Campbell. A truly iconic Australian location.

Next stop is the Razorback and the Blades.

Next stop is Mutton Bird Island, home to the Mutton Bird aka the Short tailed Shearwater. These are extraordinary migratory birds that travel up to 15,000 km’s each year between Australia and the Northern Hemisphere for summer. Each year thousands of birds arrive at this island at the end of September, mate for life, clean out a burrow, feed, lay eggs in November which all hatch between 10-20 January, then the adults leave in early April. The chicks wait til end of April. George leaving for their first solo migration navigating on instinct.

MUTTON BIRD ISLE

Our final stop on the coast is Loch Ard Gorge where we read about the shipwreck of the same name. After a three month voyage she was lost trying to navigate this coastline. Only two survived to tell the tale.

We finish the day with a quick 17km trip inland to the famous Timboon Ice Creamery. My good friend Heather lives liquorice ice cream. I’m a fan of liquorice too so had to try it and it was amazingly good. Made with Junee Liquorice. yum.

The tough part was what to pair it with? Chocolate or Turkish Delight?

We’ve had a fabulous day!

We continue East tomorrow. I’m a bit behind with posts from WA and SA and will hopefully catch you up soon.

Love to all. Stay safe and be kind.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

Locations: Orroroo, Jamestown, Peterborough, Clare

Regions: Adelaide City & Adelaide Hills; Barossa

Dates: Sunday 17 March – Thursday 21 March 2024

Temperatures: 9 – 32 Degrees

Sunday 17 March 2024, 15 – 32 degrees

Showers overnight and our first rain in months so it is a beautiful dawn at Walloway and the hills roll out all around us.

After breaking camp at RM Williams Way we head into Orroroo for a look.

We find our way to the Giant Red gum tree, said to be over 500 years old, nearly 11 metres circumference and over 60 metres high. What a beauty and home to 100’s of budgerigars.

Next we walk around Orroroo, exploring the charming Main Street then further afield to see some of the heritage trail buildings.

Next we head to Peterborough our camp for the night at the Showgrounds.

Once setup we walk into town. In the 20th century, this town was once the crossroads geographically and a rich hub for locomotives, Peterborough; originally Petersburg after the original land owner, now heroes “steam town” with a rich historical collection of all things steam train.

Monday 18 March, 15 – 31degrees sunny

Heading for the Clare Valley today we pass through Jamestown, the birthplace of RM Williams. Reginald Murray, one of Australia’s most iconic figures has a much bigger presence in the stockman’s hall of fame at Longreach I believe but it’s nice to see his hometown honouring their local lad. Interesting to read about his involvement in the Nepabunna settlement which we passed to and from Arkaroola just days before.

Continuing on we arrive in Clare and park in long bay parking. We have one more night off grid tonight and our camp is out at Blyth (10km South) before coming back into Clare to the caravan park tomorrow.

We take a walk around Clare, exploring part of the Riesling trail on foot and finding a nod to Monica McInerney (favourite author of “Hello from the Gillespie”) in the form of artwork along the way. of Irish descent, Monica grew up in Clare and her childhood home is just across the road from the artwork. How amazing to stumble across and one of the reasons I love travelling- you just never know what you will find.

Returning to the van we see a seat in front of a big gum tree and it turns out the tree was a resting spot for the Camel Funeral with the remains of Burke and Wills on the way from Innamincka to Melbourne in 1862 as well as early explorers from as early as 1839!

Onward to Blyth and a Golden Sunset.

Tuesday, 19 March 2024, 15-25 degrees and much cooler.

After starting a sourdough loaf and setting the van ready to move, we take a walk around Blyth. Quiet and full of beautiful old buildings and houses. It makes me think of the 1945 play, Blythe Spirit by Noel Coward.

We head into Clare, set down at the park and the rest of the day is taken up with washing and cleaning the van.

Wednesday, 20 March 2024, 9-20 degrees with our first chilly morning.

Morning hike – the Cascades Walk.

Short; 1.4km return, lovely walk with views of the gully below and out to Vincent Gulf through stands of Red Stringy Bark and Blue Gum Eucalyptus trees along the ridge line.

Referred to as islands from a conservation perspective, as the plains below were all but cleared of the same trees when the area was settled in the 1800’s.

After our hike in the hills we drive further down the valley to Seven Hills and the Skillogalee winery set in an historic cottage with views of vineyards and rolling hills. We enjoy a tasting while soaking up the Autumn sunshine. Our favourite, the sparkling Riesling.

On the way back we stop at Horrocks cottage, circa 1839 at Penwortham.

Thursday 21 March 2024, 9 – 26 degrees and sunny

We were planning to cycle some of the Riesling trail today but my bike is misbehaving with sticky brakes resulting in a spills and a skinned knee, so I decide to walk into town instead while Rob does a ride. Afterwards we head up to to do a ridgeline walk.

Great views but very windy!

After lunch we head out to on our favourite wineries – Taylor’s. We enjoy a fun filled tasting with lots of local stories from our host Robert!

A lovely few days in Clare for sure! Tomorrow we head to the Barossa Valley for the weekend.

Love to all, be kind, love one another and stay safe.

Aussie Lap – Tumby Bay SA

Location: Tumby Bay, Redcliffe

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Monday 4 – Wednesday 6 March 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 29 degrees

Monday 4 March, 15 – 26 degrees

Leaving Port Lincoln today, we have just a short drive up the East side of the Eyre Peninsula to Tumby Bay, about 50km.

We take the Redcliffe road off the Lincoln Highway about 20kms from Tumby Bay and 15km of gravel road to the Redcliffe camp, not too bad. Our campsite is right on the waters edge and we look forward to the waves sending us to sleep later.

On the way in we pass a charming old farmhouse set amidst dry fields. It reminds me of a similar house I saw in Scotland. So different but somehow similar? What do you think?

SCOTTISH FARMHOUSE

After setup we drive into Tumby Bay and explore. Tumby is a charming town with an excellent RV stop in town opposite the old jetty. The foreshore is lined with Pine Trees and the town has street art and silo art. The area has a marina and is known for fishing and beautiful beaches.

We visit the bakery which looks busy; always a good sign and I order two pies, plan for me, pepper steak for Rob.

The girl serving starts the order then turns to me and says the top on the plain pie has come off, I can have it for free or I can choose another. I say top off is ok, thank you. In all my years eating pies I’ve never heard of this and neither had Rob? The pie was nice, a little hard to eat as the top kept moving but that’s okay. 👍


Tuesday 5 March, 15 - 32 degrees sunny with showers

We decided to stay an extra day at Redcliffe camp. It’s so lovely to be right on the beach and the morning is sunny with just a breeze and we don’t have to be up at Wilpena Pound until Thursday so it will just mean a longer drive tomorrow.

Rob has an early swim and we otherwise have a quiet day so I feed my starter and spend the morning catching up on my blog, making muesli bars and chatting to my friend Liz in Brisbane for a while.

About lunchtime a shower comes across and we sit under our awning enjoying the sprinkle and watching how the sea changes colours.

Afterwards we walk around the beach to the point. We see sea snails, starfish, a dead baby Ray and lots of birds.

We also see two hooded plovers on the beach. These birds are protected in this area.

We also see Pacific Gulls on the rocks and on the vegetation. They seem to be eating red berries found along the coast here. I research but can find no reference for this behaviour?

About 3:30pm I looked out the window and saw a fin in the water then three dolphins surfaced. Rob then ran up the coastline trying to get photos as they made their way past but they were too quick.

As the evening closes in the sunset is once again a beauty.

We continue North/North East tomorrow travel up the remainder of the Eyre Peninsula and then on to the Flinders Ranges. Next stop Hawker.

Stay well, be safe, be kind. xx

Aussie Lap – Coffin Bay

Location: Venus Bay, Elliston, Coffin Bay

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Monday 26 – Wednesday 28 February 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 36 Degrees

Monday 26 February: 17 – 28 Degrees

We set off from Venus Bay around 10am, planning to stop at Elliston to drop the van and do the art trail before continuing on to Coffin Bay. About 175kms in total today and still heading South East on the Eyre Peninsula.

We arrive Elliston which is about 60km from Venus and unhitch the van at the jetty. The art trail is about 20km of dirt road and with a lot of stops it’s just easier to leave the van.

The art trail is along a stunning coastal cliff drive and is well worth a visit with the sculptures set high on the cliffs and the majestic Australian Bight as a backdrop.

There is no blurb for the art pieces unfortunately although there may be online.? There seems to me to be a strong connection between the land and the sea in the art and the coastline is not to be missed!

After the art trail, we fuel up and continue our drive Coffin Bay and arrive close to 5pm. We set up and enjoy Prawns bought in Venus bay and salad for dinner.

Tuesday 27 February, 18 – 36 degrees

This morning we do the drive through the National Park. It’s an attractive journey through towering sand dunes of white sand dotted with mallee trees and the coastal shrubbery is full of colour, red, green, russet and lime.

We stop at Golden Island Lookout and watched two seals playing in the waves below for ages; one of them trying to steal catch from a person fishing down on the beach, then chasing a school of fish in the shallows. So cool and fun to watch.

The area is stunning with Golden Island glowing in the sunshine and Almonta Beach stretching up to the left with huge sands pillowing in the distance.

After spending time watching the seals we start to head back as we have an Oyster tour this afternoon. We stop at Point Avoid lookout. The coastal views is amazing again.

We also stop at Clayton’s lookout – view to the right of the lookout with lovely sandy beaches at the bottom of the cliffs.

The day is getting hotter and as 2:30 approaches the day is only getting warmer. At Oyster HQ we put on waders and immediately start to sweat. I’m glad we have both worn sun shirts as we will be in the sun during the tour.

We walk out and it’s immediately cooler in the Bay but the waders cling. It gets deeper and is an interesting walk to the pontoon. I give my phone to Rob as I’m more likely to fall over than he. 🤣😂🤣

We arrive at the Pontoon and our host from England “Rob” continued his presentation regaling us with history of the area, peppered with good humour while serving drinks.

We receive oysters and a lesson in shucking, complete with glove and sharp knife. It goes well and I manage to open my four oysters plus the extra two I earned from answering questions; pays to read brochures it turns out 😅 and they are beyond deliciousness! Best oysters ever, salty, briny and with that unmistakable metallic aftertaste! Amazing. The whole event is delightful, informative and entertaining.

We chat to Dee and Nic, a couple we met in Venus Bay and who kindly take a photo for us on the walk back in. After removing the waders we head into the restaurant for happy hour, joined by Dee and Nic.

While enjoying good company and a cool beverage we see two emus head down to the water and wade in for a dip. I’ve seen an emu wade previously at Streaky Bay but these two lay down and roll around!

They sit in the water, obviously enjoying it and cooling down for about 10 minutes!

What a sight!

The day is complete with a divine Seafood Platter that Rob had prearranged when he booked the tour. Starting with Oyster Shooters and Oyster pate, there isn’t a thing that is deep fried! The platter has Tuna sashimi, Kingfish sashimi, Vongole, Ceviche, Mussels, Prawns, Squid, Salmon, Scallops, Green Island Kawasaki, Pilchard, Garfish and a Morton Bay Bug!

What a way to end a fantastic day.

Wednesday 28 February, 15 – 27 degrees

It’s windy overnight and we wake to a cool start. First task today is to feed my starter as I’m making bread later. I set the discard aside for two quick crumpets and after breakfast and a tidy up we head out on the Oyster Walk. This walk goes all along the foreshore of coffin bay and extends on the approach to Coffin Bay out for about 20km including historical areas with the Oyster industry. Today however we take the walk starting from Oyster HQ; opposite the caravan park, and head out around the headland, past the mariner which is full of birds. We see ducks, galahs and lots of gulls of course as we walk out and the cool overcast day eventually morphs to sunshine on the return.

The rest of the morning is taken up with the first steps of bread making and I set a loaf for 1st proof before we head back out to the National Park for some Beach time at Almonta Beach. what a great place to relax.

Another busy lovely day. Early in the evening I do the last shape and fold on the dough and tuck it into its banneton for bulk overnight proofing in the fridge before settling in for the night.

Next stop – Port Lincoln tomorrow.

Stay safe and be kind. xx

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

Location: Cactus Bay, Ceduna, Smoky Bay, Point Brown, Port Kenny, Venus Bay.

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Thursday 22 February – Sunday 25 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 -31 Degrees

Thursday 22 February, 25 – 36 Degrees

So we left Cactus Bay around 10am. I decided I needed to wash my hair as it’s started to go yellow! Apparently grey hair picks up all sorts from the atmosphere, water and the sun, and as I only wash my hair every 7-10 days (I’ve always done this) and it’s getting longer, all of these elements seem to be affecting my hair. I have this toning shampoo which I use irregularly so obviously I need to use it more often.

I head for the cold shower and wash it. Bearing in mind this shower is bore water, very salty and in order to preserve water I’m not conditioning but at least it feels clean and seems to be less yellow.

It’s a female thing, what can I say!

As we are leaving camp, Chris, who holds the maintenance lease pops by and we get to say goodbye to him and the dogs, Kelly who rides on the roof and Catup who enjoyed some steak fat the other evening.

Rob also gets a new blue Cactus T Shirt.

On the way back to Penong I catch the awesome sand dunes in the morning light and we pass the pink lake (still not very pink) but very salty.

We continue back to Penong, on the very rough dirt road, then turn right on the Eyre highway towards Ceduna. We pass through border quarantine, no problem then visit a dump point and refuel. We head to the Foodland and pick up a few supplies, fresh fruit, yogurt, crackers and soda water, then hit the road. Next stop Smoky Bay.

Smoky Bay is small with lots of fresh oysters outlets and a caravan park right on the foreshore, one for another time perhaps. Rob and I are off grid and hoping to do 10 days in preparation for the Flinders Ranges. Day 7 today. We purchase some fresh oysters, 12 for $10 and head off. Our camp is at Browns Point about 8km out of town, then 20km down a very rough dirt road. Corrugates, ruts and rocks, worst road by far!

Very Rough! No kidding this is one of the roughest roads I’ve ever traveled and a true test for our Trax S3 off road Van. When we arrive, after much jolting, I’m very surprised to see that the only things that have moved in the van are the T towel and the bin! Amazing!

We set down then head out for a walk to explore the foreshore. It’s quite windy and there are loads of birds on the foreshore and up to and around the point.

I spy a stingray in the shallows and we watch them flit about.

So many birds… and with the tide out it seems a haven.

Back at the van we enjoy our Oysters then Chicken and Roast Beetroot Salad, then sundown.

Friday, 23 February, 12- 22, Sunny, windy

I have a dough to bake so that’s my first task today. It’s been in the fridge since Thursday evening on a bulk prove.

Rob has a nice hike planned so after baking and tidying the van we set off towards the point and some rock pools he’s read about.

The coastline is wild and beautiful and the tide has just turned and is coming in. We follow the coastline around and towards the point, eventually finding the rock pools.

On the way back Rob steps on a baby brown we think. I’m not sure who got the bigger fright!

That evening the wind ratchets up and we are rocked to sleep. About 10:30 I’m woken by noise and headlights. Just another traveller in a small van, in late but I can’t imagine driving that rough road in the dark! Next day they left early without saying hello.

Saturday 24 February, 18 – 37 degrees

We pack up and set off around 9:30, the road has not improved in the two days and we take it very slowly back to the highway, 25kms in 1:45hrs I reckon.

At Penong we turn East and travel on past Streaky Bay, next stop Murphy’s haystacks which we missed, when exploring this area last August.

Only 3 kms off the Flinders highway on the inland side. Known as Inselbergs (a hill that looks like a rocky island rising sharply from the sea), they are the result of erosion and harrowing (a technique used to cultivate the land) and are located on Murphy’s property. It’s a lovely walk and a great opportunity to stretch the legs.

We pass on to and then through Port Kenny and on to Venus Bay. On the way we see several emu’s including two crossing the road in front of us, two snakes, also on the road and a lizard.

At Venus we set up and find out there is a comedy night – Fairy Floss & Chaos with food trucks at Port Kenny so we organise a seat. We share the courtesy bus with Chris and Rea of 4WDIVE safaris (tube) and enjoy a fun night with hilarious standup comedians. Marc Ryan the beautiful bogan, El Jaguar, Joshua Warrior and Dom Robinson. Great night! Thank you Port Kenny Hotel.

We are home by 10pm and enjoy the bright new moon over the bay before turning in.

NEW MOON

Sunday 25 February, 15 – 25 degrees

Sunday morning we decide to hike the South-head trail which runs along the foreshore of Venus bay. It a lovely hike, about 6km with stunning cliff and ocean views along with crumbling cliff edges and loads of bird life.

Afterwards we stop at the Cafe opposite the jetty to get beer and fish and chips for a late lunch! A great weekend at Venus Bay!

Tomorrow we continue South towards Coffin Bay and Port Lincoln.

Love to all, stay safe and be kind. x

Rob’s addition – as the Dalai Lama says

“Be kind whenever possible, it is always possible.”

Aussie Lap – Streaky Bay

Location: Streaky Bay SA

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: 10 August – 13 August

Temperature: 4 – 18 Degrees

We left Minnipa with only a short drive today to Streaky Bay of roughly 100km’s from bush to coast!We decided to camp at the Islands RV camp which was recommended by a fellow camps at Tcharkuldu Rocks and a powered site will provide an opportunity to catch up with weekly washing. Our van has a washer and we can comfortably wash clothes while off grid and we could do sheets and towels but much easier in a big washer!

The Islands is 7km from Streaky Bay and on the way in we spy a bike path so as soon as we park and unhitch we grab the bikes and head for town. The ride is reasonably flat with enough hills to please Rob and make me wish I was fitter! 😂

After about 40minutes ride we arrive in town, explore the picturesque jetty, then visit the pub to book a bus and dinner for the Matilda’s Qtr final on Saturday. We enjoy a beer then ride back to camp to take in the sunset then fire up the Ziggy for roast pork dinner.

On Friday after getting the washing done we set out to explore the first of two loop drives around Streaky Bay. The first is the Cape Bauer loop. We took sandwiches and enjoyed them with tea at the blowhole and whistling rock. We waited til high tide as we hoped for a real blow but other visitors mentioned you need an onshore wind for it to pump. There’s plenty of noise though and it feels like the rocky shore beneath you is breathing, especially at Whistling Rocks!

On Saturday after a bacon and egg role at the local Drift Streaky Bay Cafe (very nice), we drive to Point Labett. As we drive past Baird Bay it appears streaky with lines of sea foam on the caps of the waves and I wonder if that’s where the name came from? The bay appears shallow and the edges had pillows of pure white foam. We stopped to watch a big flock of pelicans and other seabirds and admire the view of the wide bay.

On to the Seal Colony (51km’s from Streaky Bay), where we spied 30 seals including pups lazily enjoying the sunshine. The colony is very protected as you can only view from the platform high above which is good as it’s evident from the sign that the Australian Sealion is an endangered species. We stay quite a while but it’s cool, 18 degrees but with the breeze from the viewing platform above felt much cooler.

The only active seal!

On the way back we drive the Westall Way Loop coming across a very cranky blue tongue lizard on the wayand taking in the amazing white sand dunes at Sceale Bay, rugged Perlubie Beach, and some early wildflowers at Westall.

The area is remote and both loops were on unsealed roads which were very good and easy to drive on. The scenery in this area is so beautiful and we would love to visit again in the summer months to enjoy the beaches. We return to camp to get ready for our dinner in town and the Matilda’s game and to pack, for tomorrow we head out onto the Nullabor and five days at least of free camps.

Aussie Lap – Morgan SA to Minnipa SA

Location: Morgan, Burra, Crystal Brook, Port Augusta, Kimba and Minnipa.

Regions: SA – Murray-Darling Basin, SA – Northern and Yorke, SA – Eyre Peninsula.

State: South Australia.

Time: 7 August – 9 August 2023,

Average Temperatures: -2.0 – 21 degrees.

Reason: Travelling Australia.

We left Morgan about 10am on Monday 7 August, aiming for Crystal Brook or Melrose. It was sad to say bye for now to my beautiful Sister Kay and Great nephew Darcy but we knew it would only be a few months until we see each other again. We headed North West towards Burra which has amazing pasture lands and the area is highlighted by the “Goyder Line” a boundary line across SA corresponding to rainfall believed to indicate the edge of the area suitable for agriculture. North of the line, the rainfall is unreliable and only considered suitable for grazing and not cropping.

We pass Burra and head for Crystal Brook which is described as “Where the Flinders Begin” and is known as one of the most productive sheep and wheat areas of SA. The pastures are wide and so green, or yellow if it’s Canola and it’s all very healthy and lush so this claim looks reliable and it looks like the winter rains have been kind. We arrive at Crystal Brook and take a walk up the wide main street which is quietly bustling. Crystal brook has a long pastoral history and links with explorers. As we read the local tourist displays down the centre of the main street, I’m taken by the story of one explorer, John Horrocks who was supposedly shot by his camel Harry! I was quite surprised by this so I did some research later (ref Wikipedia) and apparently during his last expedition in the far NW of SA in 1846 while aiming for Lake Torrens and good agricultural land, Horrocks was accidentally shot while reloading his shotgun, one barrel of which was tripped by the packload of a kneeling camel known as Harry, who had been the first camel to arrive in Australia!

Horrocks lost the middle finger of his right hand and a row of teeth from the right upper jaw! Ouch! The expedition was abandoned and Horrocks died of his injuries some 22 days later. An extraordinary story of a man and his camel!

We continue on our journey taking a break at Wirrabara and take in the local Silo Art. This one painted by Australian Artist Sam Bates who goes by the name of “Smug”. The mural depicts the history of the are and important flora and fauna. Later make camp just outside Melrose with an amazing view of Mt Remarkable. We set a camp fire in our portable pit and enjoy lamb chops and grilled vegetables and later a small pot of “Gluhwein” which is red wine spiced with cinnamon, star anise, orange in a sugar syrup. Perfect for camping on a winter’s evening.

The next day we head for Port Augusta. We are passing through but it’s an interesting city because of it’s strategic position at the junction of three major Australian Highways and two railway line. We stop in town for fuel and visit the water tower which has outstanding 360 degree views towards the Flinders Rangers, the coast and the outback. As we leave Port Augusta the land seems to stretch and dry out and we know we have left the rich pastoral lands behind.

We pass Iron Knob, a town I’m hoping to visit at a later time and our next stop is Kimba which is apparently “half way” across Australia and sports “The Big Galah” and some more remarkable silo art, this one by Cam Scale in 2017 depicting a young girl looking towards a stunning sunset and surrounded by lush wheat fields. The mural stretches over five and a half silos and is around 60m wide and 25 high! We leave Kimba with me in the driving seat, first time towing!

Rob found a great camp on WikiCamps about 17km over gravel road outside Minnipa at Tcharkuldu Rocks. My first drive towing the van from Kimba to Minnipa is uneventful and then I continue on 17kms NW of Minnipa on gravel before arriving at the large camp ground with camping access all away around the rocks and many spots to choose from. With few visitors at this time of year, it is an idyllically quiet and peaceful camp. We enjoy another night under the stars with dinner over a camp fire and our only visitor is a little mouse who ran up my leg and gave me quite a start, then he ran around under the van and over the wheel (underneath the pantry), several times until we set a light and then he disappeared. I can only imagine what it would be like with mice whilst camping during a plague!

The next day we take a meandering walk around the rock speaking to a few other campers and hear about Pildappa Rock, or mini wave rock as it was referred to which is about 24 km’s out of Minnipa in the direction of the Gawler Ranges so we decide to spend a second night and explore this one also. We weren’t disappointed, Pildappa was stunning and like other more well known rocks has nearly 5 times the depth of rock underneath as that which can be seen on the surface. Pildappa has two waves one on the Southern side and and another on the Northern. It has easy access to the summit and has outstanding 360 views of the surrounding area.

On the 10th of August we head for Streaky Bay where we have 3 nights booked at the Islands RV Park based on another recommendation. We hope to catch the Matilda’s Qtr final game in The World Cup while we are there.

Aussie Lap – Bathurst to Morgan

Location: Bathurst, Wombat, Bethungra, Hay, Wentworth, Morgan

Regions: Nepean – Blue Mountains, Central West and Far West NSW

State: New South Wales

Time: 24 July – 27 July 2023

Average Temperatures: -4.0 – 22 degrees

Reason: Travelling Australia – visiting family

After a lovely week in Bathurst we set out for Morgan in South Australia with about 1060 km of travel so we planned to take four days to get there.

First stop after leaving Bathurst was Wombat, which mainly consists of a pub! Wombat is about 20 km’s from my hometown of Harden and I had promised Rob a beer there one day so we stopped in and had a lovely chat to the owner who told us the pub was for sale. It had been closed the last time we went past so hopefully someone buys the charming country pub!

Our first overnight stay was at a camp by donation at Bethungra which is between Cootamundra and Junee. A lovely little camp with a a great camp kitchen, organised by locals who have done a great job! We visited Bethungra Dam and the Rail Spiral the next day before leaving which was fascinating and well worth a visit.

The second day, saw us travelling to Hay, which is halfway between Sydney and Adelaide and a place I’ve always enjoyed travelling through, with the wide plains either side but despite promising Rob Emu’s and Camel’s we only saw 2 Emu’s (no photo though). At Hay we camped at Sandy Point on the Murrumbidgee River, part of the Murray-Darling system and still in flood after recent rain.

We aim to walk around each town we stay in and Hay has Silo Art which depicts images of those who fought in WWII. I was reading that Hay had an extraordinary amount of enlistment for a regional town and the subsequent number of lives lost deeply affected the area.

Out last overnight was at Wentworth just outside Mildura. Another free camp on the Murray just past the conjunction of the Darling River and Lock 5, a really lovely spot. We had a campfire too, which was a treat.

Australia SA – Barossa Valley

Rob and I visited the Barossa Valley in early November 2016 and this was also an opportunity for Rob to meet some of my family for the first time.

Leaving Adelaide we headed up Mt Barker towards Harndorf as our first destination. Harndorf founded in 1839 is a beautiful town, settled by 19th century Lutheran migrants and it is best known for it’s strong ties to German culture, architecture and artisanal food. Well worth a visit.

Great food, great beer!

After a great lunch and walk exploring Hahndorf we headed off towards Nurioopta and on to our accommodation in Tanunda! We spent a couple of days at this lovely B&B and explored lots of good wineries