Locations: Mingenew, Morawa, Perenjori, Latham, Wongan Hills, Bencubbin, Westonia.
Regions: Midwest and Wheatbelt WA.
Dates: 29 September- 3 October 2024
Temperatures: – 5-31, sunny, windy with scattered showers
Sunday 29 September 2024
Temperature: 5-23,crisp sunny morning
Starting km’s: 10166
We are up early but choose a slow start to the day, lingering over coffee and watching all the post AFL news before heading off.
We leave Mingenew and head East to Morawa, about 60 km’s and on the Wildflower Trail.
Once at Morawa we stop to find the Widimia wildflower trail which is beautiful with swathes of colour. A nice walk of about 3km’s to stretch the legs.
The drive today is lovely with lots of flowers bordering the road and fields of ripening wheat, barley and canola stretching as far as one can see. We pass Koolanooka and then pause at Bowgada Nature Reserve but there is no walk here.
BOWGADA NATURE RESERVE
We continue on to Perenjori where we camp for the night at the recreational centre in old tennis courts.
Monday 30 September 2024
Starting km’s 11,164
Temperature: 12 – 28 cool overnight, sunny
We are up and out for a walk early in Perenjori in search of coffee as we have run out of milk. We walk the Main Street admiring the pub and a community garden while we wait for the coffee shop to open at 8:30-am.
PERENJORI PUBCOMMUNITY GARDENS
We are away by 9:30am, heading for Wongan Hills, 180 km’s South East and see lots of flowers, pink, yellow, red, white and purple along the road this morning.
TODAYS DRIVEROADSIDE COLOUR
We stop at Latham to see the community garden but sadly it’s not seen much love for a while and the flies are next level.
LATHAM
Continuing on our next stop is at Buntine Rock for a walk and more wildflowers.
WILDFLOWERS BUNTINE ROCK
Rob heads to the top of the rock to catch the local views before we head off again.
BUNTINE ROCK VIEW FROM TOP
We then stop at Dalwallinu for a shower at the visitors centre. I forgot the $2 coin for the hot water so it was cold one! Very refreshing!
Later we pass the Big Bike sculpture at Ballidu before camping at the RV stop at Wongan Hills.
BALLIDU BIG BIKE
Tuesday 1 October 2024
Starting km’s 11953
Temperature: 11-32, windy, sunny
Today we are traveling from Wongan Hills to Mt Marshall camp which is just outside Bencubbin.
We head out through Cadeux, and Korda where we enter the “Wheatbelt Way”
Lots of fields, wheat, canola, barley and lupins surround us and then we pass through Cadoux, home of the 1979 earthquake.
WHEATBELT WAY
Storms are predicted for later in the day with strong winds. We arrive at Mt Marshall and camp, being mindful of not being under trees.
We experience a brief storm with wind and lightning but not a lot of rain at about 6pm but otherwise it’s a quiet night
Wednesday 2 October 2024
Bencubbin to Mukinbudin
Temperature: 11-21 rain 1-4mm
We start the day with a quick walk up Mt Marshall which has stunning 360 views of the surrounding countryside and we can see there is a bit of rain about today.
MT MARSHALL CAMP
Then we set of for a tour of the Bencubbin area before me move on.
We visit the historic Pergande Sheep yards and old homestead, then Waddouring Dam, and an old oldwell at North Trayning and Gnamma holes.
The over cast day moves to a rainy day increasing, so we head back to camp and hitch.
With rain and wind increasing we head towards Mukinbudin. Planning a bush camp just past there but decide instead to camp up in Mukinbudin town RV camp and settle in for a rainy afternoon.
I cook up a storm and we watch some tv.
Thursday 3 October 2024
Temperature: 8 – 18 shower or two, then clearing to sunshine
Starting km’s: 12108
We stop briefly at Pope’s Hill soldier settlement just outside Mukinbudin for some photos.
POPE’S HillRAIN OVER WHEATSTORMS AHEAD OR CLEARING
We arrive Westonia and make camp at the excellent caravan park, run by the council, lovely and clean, with a great camp kitchen. It is also right next door to the mining camp where my niece lives we are catching up for dinner later.
We take a walk out through the Main Street, checking out the faux historical shop fronts and old vehicles, as well as the museum and general store that are operating. It’s a charming Main Street!
WESTONIA
We continue on walking out of town out to the Edna May mine lookout.
EDNA MAY MINE LOOKOUT
We catch up with Lucy for dinner at the local pub, enjoying an excellent schnitzel!
We will spend a few more days at Westonia before heading further South.
Temperature: 12-26 windy, sunny and bit warmer today.
Starting km’s 11405, 25km drive
We aren’t going far today so after leaving the caravan park we to Geraldton foreshore and walked along the foreshore. Along the way we saw the old ship going out; apparently this rarely happens, and we also browsed the Sunday markets.
OLD SHIPGERALDTON FORESHORE
Once Coles opened at 11:00am we pick up a few groceries then drive to Bringo Camp, a favourite from last year, about 25 km out of Geraldton on the Mount Magnet Road. Set high on a hill it has lovely views back towards the coast and surrounding countryside.
We spend a relaxing afternoon in the van with Rob rewatching yesterday’s game and I cook up a storm making banana bread and then Nachos for dinner.
LOOKOUT SOUTHDAWN
Monday 23 September, 2024
Temperature: 10-24 Sunny, Patch of morning fog. Winds Southerly 25-35km’s
Starting km’s: 11435
Only a short drive today, 84km and we arrive Dongara about 10:30am. It’s sunny but a cool 21 degrees with a steady breeze. After we make camp we opt for a bike ride around town, about 8km’s on a trail we have done before. My foot is ok for the most part but then I wrench it a bit trying to stop and turn the bike.
DONGARA LOOKOUT
My ankle is swelling less now (in week 7) but the ligament and tendon damage is still apparent every day. Nevertheless I need exercise so I am are starting to exercise more each week.
On the cycle back, we stop at Denison seafoods but they are not open as it’s the Monarch’s birthday today in this area in WA.
LIVE CRAYS – DENISONS SEAFOOD
Tuesday 24 September, 2024
Temperature: 10-23, windy, cloudy
It’s very cool with the wind and it looks to be increasing today so we do some maintenance and cleaning, I cleaned the van windows and screens while Rob hand washed parts of the car. It’s a challenge: cleaning the car and van, as most caravan parks won’t let you use a water hose or pressure wash so it’s either find a car wash that will take vans and fit that in the travel schedule or otherwise do it by hand bits at at a time. The wind gets worse as the day progresses so we head inside after lunch.
Wednesday 25 September 2024
Temperature: 9-27 wind 22kmh Southerly gusting to 33, sunny.
This morning is nicer than it’s been so we opt to walk into town. It’s a 10km there and back so it will give my ankle a workout. We are heading for a cute coffee shop called poppies which is just over the river. Along the way we take some pics of the old jetty, the park and Rob picks some flowers for me. He’s such a gentleman!
I make it to the coffee shop and about 3/4 of the way back (9km) before opting for Rob to get the car…
Thursday 26 September 2024
Temperature: 16-24, warmer overnight, sunny, still breezy.
Rob goes for a run and I rest my foot, sore after the walk yesterday. Then we buy some seafood from Denison’s, Coffin Bay Oysters and Tiger Prawns for lunch and dinner and we also buy Mussells, Sardines and Schnapper for the freezer.
I make a pear, rocket and parmesan salad with walnuts to go with the Oysters and Prawns. Yum!
Other than catching up on some washing it’s another quiet, relaxing day.
Friday 26 September 2024
Temperature: 9-18 rain at Dongara
Starting km’s: 11555
Quite cool overnight and we wake to an overcast rainy day. Our first one in a while. We are up early and in and out of the van preparing to leave as we can between showers.
Today we are heading for Mingenew, 57 East of Dongara, as we leave the coast and head inland. It’s school holidays this week and next in WA and during the holidays we tend to head away from the coast as it gets busy and more expensive at the parks and we prefer the quiet of free camps. Our booking at Dongara was a lucky one considering the school holidays.
Mingenew is on the Wildflower Way and our plan is to head out as far as Westonia to catch up with my niece Lucy who works in a mine near there, before we continue further South skirting around Perth towards Bunbury and Margaret River.
WILDFLOWER WAYRAINY DAY
At Mingenew, we camp up at Enanty Historical Barn c. 1870 a rest stop on the outskirts of town. Mingenew is a small town with a small grocery, popular bakery and pub where we hope to watch the Grand Final tomorrow.
MINGENEW
Saturday 28 September 2024
Temperature: 5-20, rain overnight, very cool day.
It was very cool overnight and a crisp morning. We feel like we’ve been thrown back into Winter for the last few days, even putting our extra blanket back in the bed. Such a contrast from Karijini just a few weeks ago.
Today is all about the AFL Grand Final. With Rob and I both fortunate to have both our teams make the final; from very different positions mind you, we have had a fun week “bumping “ and ribbing each other, making bets and the big day is finally here.
To fill time we spend the morning going for a bit of a drive to a couple of lookouts and to see some wildflowers.
Dressed in team colours; Rob is wearing a Lions polo from their last premiership in 2021 and I’m resplendent in Swans colours of red and white, we can’t wait to go to the pub and for the game to start.
There are about 8 people ready to watch the game and a few others drift in and out of the beer garden as the afternoon progresses. Unfortunately I am the only Swans supporter for quite while. The Swans start well and the first quarter is a good contest. The second quarter is a whitewash though with the Brisbane Lions kicking 7 goals to Sydney’s 1 and Brisbane take the game from then on with dominance and purpose. I would have liked a better contest but it was a great to see the Lions win so decisively, especially after last years loss by 4 points.
We have had a fun filled afternoon watching the game and chatting with other travelers from Qld. I think Richard said it best – “the Swans look like a team that has already peaked and are on a downward trajectory while Brisbane are just hitting their peak”. Well said and well done to the Lions who worked so hard all year!
LUNCH HAPPY ROBMINGENEW PUBTHE CROWD
A quick note on lunch at the Commercial Hotel Mingenew. The Steak sandwich was probably the best I’ve ever eaten! The steak was so tender and the accompanying onion, beetroot, egg and salad were all just perfect. Yum!
Tomorrow we continue on the wildflower way towards Westonia.
Love to all. Stay safe and take care. Be kind to one another.
A couple of relatively quiet weeks coming up for us as we meander South with the next big thing in the calendar the AFL semi’s then Grand final. Both Rob and I are hoping our teams, Brisbane Lions and Sydney Swans prevail.
We leave Edgadee around 9:30am q and at 10:50am we pass the 36th parallel circle of latitude and leave the North West.
The country side is still salty scrub with few variations. Around 12:00pm we pass the Overland Roadhouse at the turn off to Shark Bay.
We visited Shark Bay and Monkey Mia in September 2023; a week later in the month than today. Passing the overland roadhouse today completes a full lap of Australia for Rob and I. We both feel a sense of completion for this journey even though we have done way more than a “lap” and still have approximately 12 weeks before we return to the East Coast of Queensland.
We are both enjoying this adventure and all the experiences we have encountered in this amazingly beautiful, rugged country of ours.
We turn right off the highway and head up Shark Bay Road, planning to free camp near Shell beach, a favourite beach from last year. After 80km we arrive and spend a couple of hours on Shell Beach, enjoying the uniquely extremely salty (hyper saline) shallow water in the sunshine and all the shells of course.
About 60km of shells in fact, sometimes up to 10m deep, formed from from the tiny Fragum cockle that’s able to survive the salty water created by the Faure Sill, an expanse of sea grass at the mouth of the Peninsula. It’s warm with a breeze and a lovely place to relax and reflect on our trip so far.
Rob decides to walk up to the feral animal control fence; erected in 2010 and stretching across the width of Peron Peninsula to protect indigenous animals from feral invaders such as cats, foxes, rabbits and goats. I read that the Bilby has been successfully reintroduced here since the fence was erected.
SHELL BEACH
We make camp at a WikiCamps Freecamp – Shelly Gravel Pit almost opposite Shell Beach. Its location is the most appealing element.
Tuesday 17 September 2024
Temperature: 16-31, Windy, cool overnight and sunny.
Starting km’s: 10600
Wind picked up overnight and it’s a very windy morning so we have a slow start as we decide how to spend the day.
We decide to drive into Denham about 80km’s further along the peninsula and visit the World Heritage Centre and hope that the wind drops later so we can swim somewhere.
Stopping at Whalebone point scenic lookout we see a large bird fishing so we walk down to take a closer look. It moves further down the beach but we think it might be a pacific gull or greater cormorant? You may make it out in the photo on the left.
Continuing on, we see a tiny Thorny devil on the road, no pic as he’s too small and too quick as we head into Denham, where we stroll along the foreshore before deciding to visit Shark Bay World Heritage Centre.
DENHAMSHARK BAYUNION SCULPTURE
The centre celebrates Shark Bay’s bio diversity and explores the area’s inclusion in Workd Heritage listing including Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool and the Fragum cockle and Faur Sill that make up Shell Beach. The centre also explores maritime history of the area including the landings of Dirk Hartog on the Island of same name nearby in 1616 and Dutch navigator Willem de Vlamingh’s landing at same location in 1697.
GUDRUN FIGUREHEAD c1900EXPLORER PLATES SILVERTHORNY DEVILSHARK BAY WORLD HERITAGE CENTRE
I read the story of Rose de Freycinet (nee Piñon) wife of Louis Freycinet who sailed with him on the Uranus 1818-1820 and wrote a journal as the second woman to circumnavigate the globe. Now a book; a Woman of Courage, it sounds like a fascinating read so I note for future reading.
Afterwards we head to Shark Bay hotel for lunch sharing a fishburger and squid with salad and while away an hour chatting to two fellow couples traveling from Qld.
On the return trip to to the van we stop off at Eagle bluff which has amazing views below of the bay below and we see sharks and turtles! An amazing afternoon even without a swim!
Approx 250 km’s driving today, leaving the Francois Peron Peninsula and heading South towards Geraldton
As we leave I spy a lizard in a bush and on the main road we see some emu’s.
LIZARDEMU
We see lots of wildflowers and the outback scrub slowly gives way to green agricultural fields along the way before we stop today at Galena Bridge Camp on the Murchison River.
We relax for a while before I make dinner, a vegetarian nourish bowl with spiced & roasted chickpeas and cauliflower. As the afternoon wans a breeze comes up and I start sneezing. This starts a full on allergy attack with itchy watering eyes and a sneezing, headache. I’ve suffered hayfever my whole life so I’m prepared with antihistamines on hand but it’s still unpleasant.
As evening sets, the moon rises and we have the a beautiful harvest moon on the horizon.
Thursday 19 September 2024
Temperature: 12-29 breezy, sunny
Starting kilometre’s: 10973
100 kilometres today into Geraldton.
Lots of flowers, kangaroo paw, wattle and swathes of yellow, pink white and purple line the highway.
No wonder my hayfever is in overdrive!
We stop at Elephant Hill lookout, and take pics of Elephant Hill. Can you see the elephant?
ELEPHANT HILL
We set down at Sunset Beach Caravan Park, here for three days to take care of a minor recall on the Isuzu and catch the next two semifinal games in the AFL; Sydney Swans (my team) v Port Adelaide on Friday and Brisbane Lions (Rob’s team) v Geelong Cats on Saturday.
Friday 20 September 2024
Temperature: 7-23 cool overnight, windy and sunny.
Our first job today is to drop the Isuzu in for a minor recall. Thankfully they give us a loan car for the morning so we head to the shops for coffee and a browse then back to the van. In the afternoon we head to WinterSun tavern. We are meeting my niece Jo for dinner and to watch the Swans game. It’s lovely to see Jo and catch up on all her news.
The game is a nail biter but the Sydney Swans prevail and I’m thrilled with the win! Woohoo!
Go the Swans!
Saturday 21 September 2024
Temperature: 7-22 windy with gusts.
The gusting wind in Geraldton makes doing anything outside tricky so we opt for a wildflower trail drive. Rob’s found a loop drive that will take us out to Mullawa and around and back via Nabawa where we have arranged to meet Jo and her partner Chris to watch the Brisbane Lions v Geelong Cats semifinal later today.
As we head for Mullawa we pass through Tenindewa and find the flower trail includes sculptures and local history.
Mullawa, about 100 km’s from Geraldton is a charming town in the wheatbelt with a lookout and an interesting church.
We then take the Northern loop which includes a sidetrack through Urawa Nature Reserve with lots of flowers and a camp spot by a river.
URAWA NATURE RESERVE
We just have enough time to drive to Nabawa through the countryside and arrive just before kick off. Jo and Chris are there to meet us and there are a few locals settled in for the game too.
The game starts with the Geelong Cats and Brisbane Lions evenly matched but in the second quarter Geelong gets ahead. It’s a tense third and fourth quarters as Brisbane battle to fight back the 29 point lead and the closing minutes of the game are tense as Geelong and Brisbane fight to win. Geelong kicks a goal and Brisbane have minutes to score!
They do and it’s a thrilling win for the Lions!
A great afternoon of footy with good company and friendly rivals in the crowd.
It’s been lovely to spend time with Jo too.
JO AND I
A lovely few days in Geraldton with great AFL results for both Rob and I with both our teams making the Grand Final next week.
Tomorrow we head to Dongara for a few days and then hit the Wildflower trail.
Locations: Exmouth Gulf, Bullara Station, Coral Bay WA
Regions: Gascoyne WA
Dates: 11 – 15 September 2024
Temperatures: 20 – 37, hot, sunny.
Wednesday 11 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 31 degrees, sunny
Starting kilometre’s: 9368
With all the washing clean and fresh yesterday we decided to forgo the mining mess for the hotel and shared a prawn stir fry and a parmi. Today we are headed to House Creek Camp, about 176 km’s on the Beasley (52) and then Nanutara-Munjina Road 212 in total.
BOOT TREE PARABURDOO
It’s vey hot with 33 degrees at 11:30 and 34 by 12:00pm. We make camp at House Creek in shade and set up to watch the US campaign debate Trump v Harris. Entertainment at its best.
Roast Lamb & Veg and then a storm after dinner.
HOUSE CREEK REST STOP
Thursday 12 September 2024
Starting kilometre’s: 9581
Temperature: 22 – 37, warm overnight with a wee storm, cool sunny morning.
We drive 251 kms to Bullara station today, arriving about 12:30pm. After set down we relax in the shade of the van. The temp is 34 at 1pm.
As the afternoon cools I take a walk to check out the camp kitchen, the bottle tree, the Lava Trees and Bill the Turtle. Curiously, and I’m a bit embarrassed to admit, it took me 24 hours to work out what a Lava Tree is!
SHEEP AFTERNOON STROLL
From 4:30 pm there is live music and a bar at the woolshed with guitarist Tommy Steez so we relax there and enjoy the cooling evening breeze, I particularly like his song, “I hate Byron Bay”! He sings some of my old favourites from Neil Young and Hendrix with his own arrangements which are interesting and different.
CHEERS SUZYFIREPIT
It’s Suzy’s funeral in Brisbane today so Rob and I have a quiet cheers to farewell my friend. A country girl like me, Suzy loved everything country so I reckon she would have loved Bullara Station.
Friday 13 September 2024
Temperature: 21-37, hot and sunny
Hot overnight but a cool breeze picked from around 3am for a cool morning.
I feed my starter Millie for bread and cinnamon rolls later.
Rob and I decide to do a trip to Coral Bay so we leave at 9am. It’s 69kms. We plan to spend the day on the beach and return at 3pm so I can make a loaf of bread and cinnamon rolls before we attend the famous “burger night” at Bullara Station.
We visit Bills Bay; a beautiful sweep of a bay which includes Maud’s Sanctuary zone so no fishing. We walked along the beach and see large fish, some at least 600mm in the water. Happy to swim near us, close enough to touch!
BILL’S BAY
Then we visited Monck Head, for a look and returned to Bills Bay for the day. I couldn’t resist videoing the fish.
We sheltered under a sandstone overhang and with the shade and the breeze, swimming and snorkeling had the best day!
CORAL BAY
As we leave Coral Bay we see quite a big build up of clouds. Makes me think of the wee storm two nights ago, maybe the build up is already starting?
It’s still 29 degrees when we leave at 3pm
The drive along Exmouth Gulf has outstanding views of wide sweeping plains, peppered by termit mounds all the way out to Giralia range. The photo’s don’t do it justice but it is a spectacular view.
GIRALIA RANGESUNSPOT ON THE PLAIN
Once back at Bullara, I hop to with my cinnamon rolls. I’m making my own recipe for the filling with apple and cinnamon and just a little sugar as I’m always trying to to reduce/cut sugar from my diet. I’m pretty pleased with the result but proof will be in the baking in the morning.
SOURDOUGH DISCARD CINNAMON ROLLS
We shower and get ready for the evening and I just have time to mix ingredients for a sourdough loaf. I’ll be busy later with the folds.
Later we hear there are 400 people here for burger night. The atmosphere is festive and we chat with Paula and Steve sitting next to us who are from Karratha.
The firepit is lit and they start cooking – about 30 burgers at a time I think?
FIREPIT BBQ
Shortly after a fellow comes in on a horse. We aren’t certain but it maybe the station manager. He heads to the bar, still on his horse and is provided a beer. This is a very Australian thing to do and everyone in the crowd including us love it.
BEER AT THE BAR!
The dinner queue starts soon and it’s an amazingly well rehearsed production that moves quickly. I must say the burger was one of the best I’ve ever eaten, truly. Very tasty, juicy with pickle, cheese, beetroot, onion slaw and your choice of sauce (mustard and tomato for me) and it didn’t fall apart! Rob liked it so much he planned to buy some burgers from reception the next day!
Thalia provides the entertainment tonight and does a great job with her three acoustic guitars, original scores and unique rhythm technique. To top the evening the sunset is a beauty!
BULLARA STATION SUNSET
Saturday 14 September 2024
Temperature: 20 – 37, warm overnight, sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 9984
Rob’s up early for a walk and I’m up to bake my cinnamon rolls and finish my loaf. I use the oven in the camp kitchen and I’m pretty happy with the result.
FRESH SOURDOUGH DISCARD CINNAMON ROLLS
We leave Bullara today and are heading South over the next week towards Geraldton. It’s going to be hot today so we decide to head back to Coral Bay for a few hours during the middle of the day. This time we go to Monck Head as it has a boating facility and parking for the van.
We park ourselves under another sandstone overhang. For the first hour the flies are terrible, hence the fly net but a wind change later provides some relief. Rob takes a walk and spies a small reef shark in the shallows and later we see a small sting ray in the shallows
REEF SHARK AT MONCK HEAD
We pack up about 2:30pm and head back to the car and then head South for another 80 or so km’s on the Minilya- Exmouth Road. The coast plains in this area are vast and seem to stretch on endlessly with narry a tree to be seen. We see vast spreads of yellow flowers before the road turns further inland and the landscape changes to low saltbush scrub. Lovely to see flowers and looking forward to more as we head South.
The dash show 40 degrees at 2:15pm and at 2:23pm we cross the Tropic of Capricorn.
We camp at Minilya Creek Rest area. We have reception for the Lions V GWS semi final. What a game!
MINILYA RIVER & BRIDGE
Sunday 15 September 2024
Temperature: 10 – 38, breezy overnight, warm and sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 10159
Today we are driving 140 km to Carnarvon which is uneventful. In Carnarvon we stop for fuel and groceries then visit Pelicans Point.
PELICAM POINT CARNAVON
We then drive a further 80km’s to Edagee Rest Stop where we are camping tonight. With pretty wildflowers.
Tomorrow we are revisiting Shell Beach and Shark Bay.
Locations: Karijini National Park, Tom Price, Paraburdoo.
Regions: Pilbara WA
Dates: 5 September – 10 September 2024
Temperatures: 8 – 39 degrees
Starting kilometres: 8383
Thursday 5 September 2024
Temperature: 14-28, overcast morning clearing to sun.
We set of just after 9am and arrive at Paraburdoo around 12pm. Along the way we pass amazing scenery that changes from really green to really dry. We see amazing creek beds, ranges and long stretches of highway. The scenery constantly changes, as do the colours showing deep hues of russet and grey blue under the overcast sky and then bright greens and ochres under the sun.
We stop at the information Centre before heading out to our camp near Mt Bruce. Paraburdoo is a mining town; gazetted in 1972 and has a memorial to Red Dog, born here in 1971 and star of the blockbuster movie of the same name.
Leaving Paraburdoo we start to see lots of wildflowers and then we are stopped at roadworks and hear that a 10m wide load is coming from one of the mines so we find a spot to pull off and wait for it. There’s two and they’re big!
NORTHERN BLUEBELL?LAVENDER MULLA MULLA
OVERSIZED TRAFFIC
Not long after this we go up and over a big hill and we see Mt Bruce and the start of Karijini. Karijini is WA’s second largest National Park covering 627,422 acres or 1,550390 hectares!
If kilometre’s is easier to imagine it’s 6,274.22 km squared!
Karijini is home to rock formations that are estimated to be 2.5billion years old. Most of the gorges and waterfalls are in the Northern part and most are accessible via sealed roads.
HAMERSLEY RANGEMT BRUCECAMP VIEW (MT NAMELESS)KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK
We make camp at Mt Bruce Camp just behind a Mount that I can’t find the name of so Mt Nameless to me.
It sits in front of Mt Bruce from this angle and we have a lovely view of Hamersley Ranges in the opposite direction. After dark, I see a huge amount of lights in the distance which we think are from the Marandoo Mine Camp.
SUNSET HAMERSLEY RANGELIGHTS!
Friday 6 September 2024
Temperatures: 8 – 25, cool and clear, sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 8703
Today we are visiting Hamersley Gorge before going into Tom Price to shop and shower at the information centre.
It’s about 62km down a very red road. It’s gravel but a good road, wide and not too corrugated. Obviously used for mining traffic and we have Hamersley Range on our right for most of the drive there. The colours are vibrant and the deep russet red of the road has drifted into all the vegetation alongside the road, trees and shrubs alike.
The gorge is just a short 500m walk down with steps but I elect to stop at the lookout due to my foot so Rob heads down for a dip and takes some snaps while he’s down there. While enjoying the view I chat to a lady named Suzanne from the Sunshine Coast, Qld.
HAMERSLEY GORGE FROM LOOKOUTSPA POOLHAMERSLEY SWIMMING HOLEMULLA MULLA
Next up we drive into Tom Price for a shower. After five days of top and tail it’s welcome and refreshing. We pick up a few groceries, visit the dump point and refuel before heading back out.
TOM PRICE HAUL TRUCK
Saturday 7 September 2024
Temperature: 12-29, sunny
Today we are visiting Joffre and Knox Gorge. Both are in a different direction to Hamersley Gorge and are part of the Weano area and it’s about a 40 km drive. We set off just after 8am
Arriving Joffre I see some pretty wildflowers growing and it’s lovely that we are seeing more and more wildflowers every day. Spring has sprung!
JOFFRE GORGE
There’s a short walk and then rock steps down to the lookout. As we walk we start to see the Gorge open up and sitting on a natural step in the sun is a healthy King Brown! He’s shy so slips into a spinifex bush nearby so I don’t get a photo.
I manage the stairs down with help from Rob and the view is worth it. A lovely spot with Karijini Eco lodge opposite. There’s a walk around the Gorge to the other side and then down to the waterhole, Rob does the View and Waterhole walks while I patiently wait for the King brown to reappear but no chance.
I took a short video of the area for you. So pretty, such natural beauty!
Next we are off to Knox Gorge, not far away so only a short drive.
Knox is spectacular! Much bigger than Joffre, deeper, longer. Just wow!
KNOX GORGE
Rob sets off to hike the Gorge and I relax and enjoy the scenery from the lookout, chatting to other visitors.
It hard to catch Rob at the bottom as there are lots of shadows but I do manage to find him in this picture. As he’s about to cross the creek from the left to the right.
Rob takes some pictures while he’s walking of course, so these follow.
STAIRS DOWNBOTTOMSWIMMING HOLEENDLOOKOUT FROM BELOWROCK SCRAMBLEKNOX GORGE
These are spectacular spaces and with the lookouts I don’t feel like I’m missing out entirely which is nice.
On the drive back we stop to enjoy some wildflowers and views of Mt Bruce and Mt Nameless where we are camped.
MT BRUCEMT NAMELESSMT NAMELESS FROM OUR CAMP
It’s another spectacular sunset and then I’m awake early and catch sunrise behind our Mt Nameless.
SUNSETDAWN
Sunday 8 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 30
Today we are off to Circular Pool, Three Ways, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool at Dales Gorge and then lastly Hancock Gorge via a circular loop of about 120 km’s.
We arrive at Circular Pool and Three Ways about 10:45am, these two are at one end of the walk to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which are at the other end of Dales Gorge with about 2.5 km’s between them.
We visit both lookouts which are amazing and then Rob heads out to walk Dales Gorge while I jump in the car and drive to the other end to meet him. Circular Pool walk is closed due to a rock slide last wet season.
CIRCULAR POOLROCK SLIDETENACITY!THREE WAYS
I walk back to the car slowly taking in the beautiful gum trees along the edge of the gorge.
I’m quickly at Fortescue falls which has a big park and recreation area with a boardwalk to the lookout which has a superb view back towards Three Ways, along Dale Gotge and in the other direction towards Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which is above the falls.
DALES GORGEFORTESCUE FALLS
From the lookout it’s a good 280 steps and stairs down to the Falls so I’m happy to sit and enjoy the view while I wait for Rob. A ranger stops and we have a brief chat and she tells me there are 2-3 rescues for sprains and breaks in the Gorge each week! Each one takes about 5-8 hours to rescue and the nearest medical is Tom Price about 80km’s away from here. The ranger also tells me she does the stairs about 5 times a day, every shift, wow. The ranger tells me Oxer lookout at Hancock Gorge is the best in her opinion. That’s next on our trip today.
Rob appears and it’s only taken him about 1.5hrs to do the walk, swim and climb the steps out! How fit is he.
He’s taken some pictures of the walk and pools which follow. Looks lovely.
TRACKLEANING ROCKSMALL WATERFALL ON THE WAYNO GO – OVERHANGFORTESCUE FALLS POOLFERN POOLDALES GORGE
Our last Gorge today is Hancock Gorge at Weano Recreation reserve as we continue our loop drive. The scenery continues to amaze with rock formations and outstanding scenes at every turn.
We arrive at Weano, check out the maps then head out to Oxer lookout. It’s 800 m walk or drive so we elect to drive.
Hancock gorge is magnificent, stretching out in four directions. The cliffs are sheer and deep and it’s only possible to see the bottom, where there is water up one angle of the gorge. There is a walk and I’m disappointed not to be fit enough as I think it would be amazing to walk between the walls of this great chasm in the earth.
Rob decides to do the Kermit’s pool walk so we return to the park and I sit in the shade admiring a cute Spinifex Pidgeon pair. He’s dancing but she’s having none of it! It hit 32 at 2:30pm so it’s quite hot.
Rob’s photos of Kermit’s pool are below. Love the narrow gorge pool photo with the reflection.
Wow what a day. Karijini sure delivers with its beautiful ruggedness and natural wonders.
Monday 9 September 2024
Temperature: 13-31 breezy morning, sunny
Rob’s walking Mt Bruce (1235m) this morning so I baked some sourdough discard crackers that I’d prepped a couple of days ago, did some exercise, meditated and blogged. Nice to have a quiet morning to myself.
Rob enjoyed his hike, returning just before 12pm.
TOP OF MT BRUCE
In the afternoon we head into Tom Price for a shower, and a few groceries and otherwise enjoyed the quiet and ambience of Karrijini on our last day.
33 degrees at 1:30pm.
Tuesday 11 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 29 overcast and a few spits of rain before 8:00am!
Starting kms: 9257
We are leaving beautiful Karijini today for Paraburdoo, 131 km’s away. We’ve heard the caravan park there is attached to the mining camp and has free washing machines and you can have dinner in the miners mess! All you can eat for $21.
Thought we would try it out and perhaps a good opportunity to get rid of some of the red dirt of the last few weeks before we head back to coast tomorrow.
Hope this finds you all well. Stay safe and take care. Love Maryann and Rob
It was lovely going to sleep in the salt air with the sound of the waves crashing on the Ningaloo reef on the other side of the dunes. Good thing it was an early night as something wakes me at 3:00am scratching about on the roof of the van. Possibly a bird but it may have been the top hatch creaking as it caught the early morning breeze that came through. It’s another beautiful dawn and Rob is up and out for an early walk to catch the sunrise while I chase a few more zzz’s.
We head out early though, around 8am to catch high tide at Oyster Stacks. This is another drift snorkeling site that can only be swam at high tide to protect the reef.
On the drive there I see a black flanked wallaby sitting quietly in the rocky hills as we pass by.
We arrive and I’m dismayed to see the beach is very rocky and the shoreline is jagged rocks. I decide to sit and watch as it’s too rocky for me to navigate with my ankle which is quite swollen today from all the sand walking yesterday I think.
It’s a beautiful spot so I’m happy to watch Rob and other snorkellers.
The idea is to go in at one end, on the left and let the current take you over the reef for about 300 metres as you snorkel and you then exit before the current sweeps you out and walk back up to repeat.
Rob does about 3 passes, seeing lots of colourful fish and a turtle embedded in the sand. I check later and apparently they sleep when they do this.
ROB SNORKELING OYSTER STACKS
Next on the list today is Osprey Bay, with sand entrances so I swam and snorkelled here and saw lots of fish.
OSPREY BAY
By 11:30am it’s getting quite hot so we decide to drive out to see Yardie creek. As we walk back to the car we see Corella’s seeking shade under cars and they’re not moving for anyone!
Yardie Creek is another 30km’s down the range road and the end of the road for the National Park. From here you can take a 1hr boat ride up Yardie creek to where it ends and view the Gorge. I run into a lady I had spoken to at Oyster Stacks who had just done it and really enjoyed it. Said she had seen lots of wallaby’s on the rocks too and some monitors.
Obviously the wildlife stick close to fresh water as a distinct characteristic that we’ve both noticed since we left Kununurra is the lack of wildlife; apart from birds, My hopes of seeing a full grown frilled neck lizard having diminished as the days have gone by so it’s a good thing we see Kites, Kestrels, Hawks and many other birds most days.
YARDIE CREEK
On the way back to camp I see a Wedgetail Eagle pair high in the sky enjoying the thermals as they hunted for their dinner.
WEDGETAILED EAGLE
It’s another spectacular sunset followed by leftover roast lamb for dinner.
TIMELAPSE SUNSET
Tuesday 3 September 2024
Temp: 15 – 33 degrees, hot and sunny.
We are going back to Turquoise Bay today, to the bay this time rather than the drift section so we are out early once again.
The bay is lovely and calm and it’s a delight to swim and snorkel here. We strike up conversations with a couple, Marilyn and Peter from Perth and chat to them throughout the morning. Peter has a stand up paddle board and very generously offers Rob a go. No photos as I was swimming.
ME AND MY ANGEL.
I relax on my towel and there’s a seagull who keeps popping in next to me. He’s got a sore paw like me poor thing. Rob saw a turtle as he went further out with fins and then later we both see one surfing the waves briefly as they bobbed up for air. What a treat this is.
We leave Turquoise Bay at lunch and I think I spy a Wedgetail eagle in the dunes as we leave. Driving back I try to capture the ranges.
WEDGY?CAPE RANGE
We relax through the heat of the afternoon then try our luck with some beach fishing using sourdough for bait. Sadly no catch but there’s a few nibbles and it’s fun casting and trying out the beach rods. I used to love fishing when I was a young woman but like lots of things in life it fell away with children although I did take my daughters fishing a few times on holidays as they got older.
Cape Range has been a delight and I can admit to a twinge of jealousy when talking to three gents on the way back from the beach who camp here for 28 days every year! I’ve always admired the idea of an annual four weeks summer holiday at the beach.
Wednesday 4 September 2024
Temperature: 17 – 31 hot and sunny.
Starting km’s: 8028
Happy Birthday Carly!
Today we leave Cape Range and Exmouth Gulf heading inland toward Karijini National Park, 717 kilometres away. We will take two days to get there, camping at House Creek Free Camp on the way.
We leave MESA camp and head back into Exmouth where we need to refuel, dump and refill water and stop for a few groceries. I also have an important phone call to make for my daughter’s birthday today.
We stop at the visitors centre to dump and refill water and there is a Travelers camp van parked up nearby with a young man sitting on top strumming his guitar and singing. Turns out to be an impromptu original composition which his mates from Germany, India, Sweden and Nederlands tell me he just keeps making up as he goes along! Hilarious! The singer is Italian and they are all international students from Perth on a quick getaway to the outback.
I really enjoy this impromptu and innocent fun.
IMPROMPTU PERFORMANCE!
In the background of the photo is the big prawn! Not as big; about 1/10th in fact as the one I photographed in Ballina NSW last year but it is very shiny and new looking.
While Rob attends to the jobs, lucky me has a lovely chat with the birthday girl and her big sister too, catching up on all their news. They’ve been going through a difficult time as their co tenant has breached their lease so they’ve had to navigate all of that, find new accommodation and organise to move! I’m very proud of how they’ve managed this difficult situation and luckily they have found new digs not far away from where they currently are. Trying times in the current rental market.
Next up is groceries, then fuel and we head out of Exmouth. We backtrack down the gulf road then turn left and head North back up the highway to Nanutarra before turning left towards Parabadoo, Tom Price and Karijini.
MT ALEXANDER – 410m
Almost as soon as we turn, we start to see ranges appearing left and right. The drive to Karijini has the Hamersley and Chichester- Millstream Ranges on the left (North) and Barlee and Capricorn Ranges on the right (South) so the further out we go the more picturesque the drive becomes.
We arrive at the camp around 2:30 and it’s a very hot 37 degrees so we relax in the shade through the remainder of the afternoon and later spend the evening chatting with another couple nearby, Helen and Stephen from Bribie Island.
HOUSE CREEK SUNSET
Sometimes travel days are really lovely days like today. Tomorrow we will arrive at Karijini National Park.
Hope you are all well and thriving. Stay safe and take care.
Locations: Karratha, Yannarie, Exmouth, Cape Range National Park WA.
Regions: Pilbara, Gascoyne WA
Dates: 29 August – 1 September 2024
Temperatures: 17 – 37degrees
Starting kilometres: 7128
Thursday 29 August
Temp: 18 – 37, hot and sunny
We leave Karratha around 9:30am with a long day of driving ahead. Hoping to do about 340 kilometres.
About 5 kilometres out we receive a rock strike on the windscreen from a truck cutting in to soon after overtaking which gives both of us a scare but thankfully no damage.
The landscape changes more often today as we move through Mardie. I think we have Hammersley Range on our left and then we cross over the Fortescue River. The third longest river in the state it is named after Chichester Fortescur, Parliamentary under Secretary of State for the Colonies in 1861.
Fortescue is also a family name on Rob’s mum’s side of his family.
FORTESCUE RIVER
By 11:30am it’s 35 degrees as we pass over the Robe River, wide and mostly dry.
ROBE RIVER
We then come to an overpass at Fortescue with a gravel road running underneath in either direction and lots of radio chatter between a stationary vehicle and road trains turning left and right onto the highway, with a Mining operation nearby, we suspect.
An hour later, in the distance more ranges appear and Parry Range comes into view as we pass Cane River Conservation Park. By 1:00pm we reach Nanutarra Roadhouse and here we refuel.
PARRYRANGE
We arrive at our camp for tonight, Yannarie around 2pm. We relax in the shade of the van til sundown before an early dinner and night.
YANNARIE SUNSET
Friday 30 August 2024
Yannarie to Exmouth
Temp: 17 – 30, cool breeze over night and morning, warm and sunny.
I’m awakened at 3:30 by a stiff breeze and it’s cooler than it’s been for days. The cool change is welcome relief after all the heat.
I’m looking forward to seeing the Coast again at Exmouth and after about 40km’s today we enter the Gascoyne region before turning right onto Warlu Way towards Coral Bay, Exmouth and Cape Range National Park. We will be in the Gascoyne Region for the next few weeks.
80 kms along the Warlu way we pass Bullara station. We will return and spend time at Bullara Station in mid September. Due to bookings we will be doing a bit of criss crossing in this area in the next few weeks.
Then we turn right again toward Exmouth.
We are staying at the RAC Exmouth park for two nights. Unfortunately when we arrive it’s very windy. Wind is prevalent all along the WA coast so you just never know how it will be and you have to take the bad with the good. I’m hopeful that the wind will die down by the time we get out to Cape Range national Park so that we can enjoy the best of the Ningaloo reef while we’re there.
After set down and a bit of a break we head out to explore Exmouth with a drive out to the start of the Cape Range NP and the Vlaming Head lighthouse which is about 25km’s out.
NINGALOO COAST
While there we read that the lighthouse is the only point in Australia where you can get both sunrise and sunset from the one point so we decide to rise extra early on Sunday to catch sunrise out here before we head out to Cape Range and then do sunset out there.
Saturday 31 August 2024
Exmouth to Cape Range NP
Temp: 17 – 28 sunny and windy 25 – 45kph with gusts
A very slow day today. The wind is gusting and it’s very unpleasant so we have a cruisy morning with egg and bacon rolls then do a a few groceries then a drive around Exmouth.
We visit a new Marina estate and while checking out the boats I see a huge eel swimming underwater along the rock wall. He’s obviously hunting for his lunch!
EEL
Sunday 1 September 2024
Temp: 20 – 30 cool & breezy morning, sunny.
We rise at 5:30am, dress and grab a jacket as it’s cool and breezy, then jump in the car and drive to the lighthouse. It’s magnificent to see the light in the sky change through a myriad of colour and to experience sunrise like this on the WA coast.
NINGALOO COAST WA SUNRISE
After about 1/2 an hour we head back into town pack up and hitch and then head back out again, this time continuing down the Ningaloo Coast Road for another 36 km’s with the coast on our right and Cape Range on our left to our booked spot at MESA campground. The wind has settled as the day progresses and we are looking forward to the next three days exploring Ningaloo Reef.
MESA CAMPMESA BEACHMESA BEACHMESA BEACHTURQUOISE BAY
We arrive, set down and have a chat to Rick and Val, the volunteer camp hosts then throw on togs and we are off for a snorkel at Turquoise Bay. Rob does some drift snorkeling on the current while I choose to swim and let my ankle just enjoy the cool water.
We spend a couple of hours enjoying the water before heading back to van where I have planned a roast lamb for Rob for Father’s Day. We enjoy the sunset in the dunes with a glass of wine and agree it’s been a perfect day!
SUNSET MESA CAMP – NINGALOO REEF
Happy Fathers Day to all the dad’s we know . Stay safe and take care of one another.
Locations: Eighty Mile Beach, Pardoo & Cape Keraudren, Port Hedland, Karratha WA
Regions: Kimberley, Pilbara WA
Dates: Sunday 25 August – Thursday 29 August 2024
Temperatures: 24 – 37 degrees, hot!
Startingkilometre’s: 6490
Today we are leaving Eighty Mile Beach heading for Karratha with a couple of stops along the way.
The weather has really heated up and we hear on radio national that in the last few days 140 year old August temperature records are being broken all over the Kimberley and Pilbara regions!
Up until the last couple of days the nights have been nice and cool provided welcome relief from the hot days but last night it only got down to 24 and that’s on the coast so you can imagine what inland temps are like!
Today we are traveling 173 kilometre’s to De Grey River Free camp, moving into the Pilbara and driving mostly along the coast.
TODAY
Still traveling along the Great Northern Highway we turn right at Pardoo towards Cape Keraudren which is about 6 kilometre’s, mostly bitumen.
Cape Keraudren is a Nature Reserve not part of WA parks so day and overnight fees apply to visit. We arrive at 11:30am and it’s already 36 degrees. Rob wants to walk to a blowhole nearby so I elect for a shorter stroll to the boat ramp and enjoy views of the coastline.
CAPE KERAUDREN
Continuing on we pass Pardoo heading South to our overnight camp on DeGrey River. Rob walks to the river but it’s dry. Next morning as we leave we cross another bridge on the DeGrey River and this one has water.
PARDOODE GREY RIVER CAMP SUNSETDE GREY RIVER SUNRISEDE GREY RIVER
Monday 26 August 2024
Temperature: 20 – 38 sunny and hot.
Today we are passing through Port Hedland for fuel and supplies but not stopping. We plan to Freecamp again on our way to Karratha.
As we are driving towards The Port we pass a very long train loaded with ore and a large salt mining operation.
Fun fact, each carriage carries 140 tonne of ore and each train has 140 carriages!
IRON ORE TRAI PORT HEDLANDSALT MINING
Just after this we are on a dual carriageway and a driver alongside of us makes a circling motion attracting my attention. Something must be wrong so we pull over and the driver does too then comes back to tell us the drivers side wheel of the van is on an angle! He thinks we may have done a bearing.
I immediately start searching for caravan repairers and calling, after 3 attempts I get onto Bruce Rock engineering and they say to head over, they can take a look.
Based on advice from a tyre guy a while back Rob bought two hub and bearing kits in case so we have our own spares if needed.
Bruce Rock assess and it’s not the bearings at all, the wheel is slightly loose by about 5ml which is negligible and he’s amazed that the guy could see this from the road. Phew! Crisis averted!
In any case it’s good to have both wheels checked and tightened and the service is at a very reasonable cost.
By 12:30pm we are back on the road and back to our brief tour around the Port of Hedland. We visit Pretty Pool on the way out and then it’s onto refueling and supplies before heading back to the highway. Good to be back in the car too as it hit 39 degrees at 2:30pm.
PIRT HEDLANDPRETTY POOL
We cross Yule River which is very wide has no water but some cows are wandering about and our camp tonight is at Peawah River.
YULE RIVERPEAWAH CAMP
Tuesday 27 August 2024
Temperature: 18-34, sunny and hot
On the highway by 9:30am and this morning we saw a Flock of Emu’s; the first for a while, hills start to appear and the vibrant Stuart Dessert Pea pops up in patches alongside the highway from Whim Creek for about 10km’s. The temperature hits 33 degrees at 10:30am!
We cross Sherlock and then little Sherlock Rivers. One with water, one without. So different.
SHERLOCK RIVERLITTLE SHERLOCK
We turn towards Roebourne and briefly stop for a break. I grab a coffee from the community cafe and it’s a good one! Thank you Roeburne Cafe.
ROEBURNE HISTORICAL GAOLGOOD COFFEE
We arrive Karratha about 12:30pm. The town is very nice, tidy and obviously has lots of industry around mining..
We are here two nights and after set down we head out to Dampier, a further 20km’s to see the coast. We’ve heard the pub; the Mermaid, has great views and cheap meals so maybe dinner out tonight.
As we drive out, there is a long causeway with salt lakes either side and when we arrive the pub does have a lovely view and we think the sunset will be good so we decide to have an early dinner.
THE MERMAIDDAMPIERDAMPIER SUNSET
Wednesday 28 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 35, hot and sunny
I’m awake early as usual and find a message from a girlfriend in Qld bearing sad news. An old friend has passed away tragically and unexpectedly.
Suzy and I knew each other through my daughter’s primary school years. She was an amazing woman, full of fun, spirit and a very kind person.
I feel so sad for her children, young adults going forward without her and for a life lived but taken too young.
The news weighs heavy. Times like this, it’s hard to be away from the support of friends but they are also just on the other end of a chat too which I take comfort from.
A quiet day of contemplation, washing and preparation for our onward trip towards Exmouth tomorrow.
Locations: Broome, Barn Hill, Eighty Mile Beach WA
Regions: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 21 August – Saturday 24 August 2024
Temperatures: 18 – 37 hot and sunny
Starting kilometer’s: 6096
We leave Broome around 10am with the destination of Barn Hill Beach Side Station stay 149 kilometre’s away so not a long drive today.
The landscape is arid and dry, flat and there are not a lot changes along the way. It’s also very hot today.
ROEBUCK
Barn Hill Station is a 10km drive off the Great Northern Highway along a red gravel road with four gates. At every gate we find vehicles behind our vehicle so naturally I wait to let them through. They all say thanks but not one offers to wait to shut the gate, despite my limping. Nothing surprises me these days.
The station is set along a clifftop, has a cafe where you can order the days meal, buy coffee and pastries and fresh baked bread. There are amenity blocks, huts to camp in and you can walk or drive down onto the beach.
After set down we head down to the beach for a slow walk.
BARN HILL BEACHSIDE STATION STAY
The beach is lovely and currently at low tide with an amazing 7 metre tide change (probably due to the full moon this week) so goes out a long way revealing all sorts of beautiful rock and sand sculptures along the coast line.
BARN HILL LOW TIDE
On our return to camp we seek and find Tony and Amanda’s van; friends made in Manning Gorge. We stop by to say hello and chat a while before heading back to our van.
Thursday 22 August 2024
Temperature: 21 – 28, warm and sunny
The next day Rob takes an early run on Barn Hill Beach and I rest my foot – too much walking yesterday. Later we wander over to the cafe to get a loaf of their whole grain high top bread to go with our snags in bread for tea tonight.
At the top of the cliffs we find some pink mulla mulla wildflowers.
PINK MULLA MULLA WILDFLOWERS
Later Rob returns to the beach for a high tide picture and then sunset.
BARN HILL HIGH TIDEBARN HILL SUNSET
Friday 23 August 2024
Temperature: 21 – 28 sunny
We have a longer drive today, 256 kilometre’s trekking down the coast line to Eighty Mile Beach.
The landscape remains desert dry, arid and flat for most of the drive with floodplains and an escarpment glimpsed in the distance.
We stop at the aptly named Sandfire roadhouse to refuel. It’s busy with a queue for fuel that takes 30 minutes!
SANDFIRE ROADHOUSE QUEUE
Again we turn right off the highway towards Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park and head down another red gravel road for 9 kilometre’s to the park. No gates today thankfully.
The park is spacious and our site is on grass and shady which is a welcome change to the red dirt and sand sites of late.
After set down we take a walk to the beach. There’s no swimming due to crocodiles and stingers and as if that isn’t enough all the fisho’s are catching sharks!
The beach is a stunner though with attractive aqua water and a lovely breeze. It can be driven on though so even more caution required…
EIGHTY MILE LEFTEGHTY MILE RIGHTEIGHTY MILE OUT FRONT
The walk to the beach, then along and back again is enough for my ankle , it’s also very hot the past few days so we retreat into the shade for the remainder of the afternoon.
We head back to the beach for sunset and it’s a beauty over the water. The tide has gone so far out, about a kilometre at least we thought and amazingly I seem to catch a stairway to the sun photo over the flats!
Saturday 24 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34, hot & sunny
Today is even hotter so I catch up on some washing and making bread. My loafs aren’t optimal at present as I’m using lower protein flour, a different wholemeal to feed, it’s consistently warmer and I’m baking in the van oven so I’m trying a levain, made from my starter Millie then fed, bloomed and used in the dough but that’s not really working either. My loafs have a good crumb but there is no real rise which is frustrating.
In the cool of the late afternoon I see a pheasant walking across the top of the hedge next to the van and some White breasted Woodswallows I think, high in the treetops. If I’m correct they are related to the Artamidae family of Butcher birds, Currawongs and Magpies here in Australia.
WHITE BREASTED WOODSWALLOW
Tomorrow we are off again leaving the Kimberley for the Pilbara as we head towards Port Hedland and Karratha.
Locations: Derby, Fitzroy River, Nillibubbica, Broome
Regions: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 14 August – Tuesday 21 August 2024
Temperatures: 13 – 33 degrees
Wednesday 14 August, 2024
Starting Kilometre’s: 5535
Temperature: 13 – 33 degrees, sunny.
We left Derby around 10am for just a short drive today, 116 kilometres to Nillibubbica Rest Area via the Great Northern Highway which crosses the Fitzroy River
FITZROY RIVER
According to WikiCamps there are some Crocodile sighting areas along the way so we stop at each one hoping for a sighting. Signs of recent and major roadworks in the area will have impacted the local population though and we only see flood plains and the Minnie River apart from the partial remains of a dead crocodile.
MINNIE RIVER
We camp at Nillibucca Freecamp in shade and relax for the afternoon, me with my foot alternating up or on ice.
Thursday 15 August 2024
Temperature: 15 – 32 degrees, sunny.
Another 107 kilometre’s to Broome and we arrive late morning, chase down some groceries then check in and set up. Broome Caravan Park is large with a big oasis pool complete with lap lanes and lots of shady recliners to relax in. We spend the afternoon cooling off in the pool, my foot loving the cold water. Later in the afternoon we visit the Town Beach Markets where we grab dinner of Chicken Satay and Green Curry.
Broome has strong historical ties to Asia due to strong migration from the 1880 to the 1960’s from countries like Japan due to the pearling and associated industries.
As we head back to the car I spy a small Sea Eagle eating his catch atop a light post.
Broome has an outdoor Cinema called Sun City Cinema in the “Chinatown” district of Broome so we head there to take in the new Alien sequel, just starting today. The cinema is the real deal with hessian seating and not much changed in over 40 years I’m later told. It is a real treat with a bar and choc tops to boot!
Also as we watch the movie and to top it off, planes are flying in very low overhead on their runway approach! The first one gave me a good scare!
Friday 16 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 32 sunny
This morning I make some sourdough discard muffins and do some washing before heading into town. I’ve been trying to rest my foot but I’m determined to visit the famous Paspaley and other Broome shops in the lookout for a South Sea Pearl. Rob takes a walk out to the town jetty then picks me up. The pearl’s are so beautiful but so very expensive! Maybe I’ll do better at the weekend markets with the 2nd or 3rd grade pearls.
MUFFINSCHINATOWN
Saturday 17 August 2024
Temperature: 17 – 33, morning fog then sunny.
Quite a strange start to the day with morning fog that didn’t clear until 8:30am. The day warms and feels humid, summer like?
A restful day with another cooling swim before we head to Cable Beach in the afternoon for a look and to plan a picnic for Sunday with some friends we are catching up with.
CABLE BEACH
Sunday 18 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33 sunny
We pick up friends Rudite and Ian who are from Morgan, SA whom I’ve known for years from visiting my sister there. We have arranged to take them to the weekend markets and visit Roebuck bay lookout afterwards. No luck in my pearl hunt but Rudite and I buy hats and Rudite finds a lovely necklace as a souvenir of the visit.
COURTHOUSE MARKETSROEBUCK BAY LOOKOUT
The day is heating up so next we head to MATSO’s Brewery, the oldest in Broome to cool off where the others get paddles to taste. I’m the designated driver so I have my usual version of a lemon lime and bitters which is fruit only, no syrup, bitters and soda water. Healthy and refreshing.
RUDITE AT MATSO’sKEG SINK!MATSO’S BREWERY HISTORY
It’s been a busy morning so we all head back for Siesta’s in the heat of the afternoon then gather again for a picnic at Cable Beach in the late afternoon.
The hot and humid day cools off to a breezy afternoon and there are loads of people about for the sunset. We see a camel train coming in off the beach before we leave. A lovely day.
PICNIC AT CABLE BEACH
Monday 19 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33, hot & sunny
A relaxing morning and we are catching up with some new friends today, in fact are meeting for the first time! Friends of friends who are traveling & living in their van like us, we have both landed in Broome at the same time so we have organised to meet for lunch at Spinifex Brewery.
We meet Leanne and Cheryl at 1pm and it’s truly like meeting old friends. We find common ground very quickly and chat our way through lunch and the afternoon sharing life and travel stories. What a lovely pair.
We see the camel trains walking past as they head to cable beach too.
NEW FRIENDS!
CAMEL TRAIN
A really lovely day!
Tuesday 20 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 32 hot, sunny
Our last day in Broome today so we have a few jobs to do. I’ve found a bookmaker in town who will hopefully fix my hiking boots but no, he tells me they are disintegrating and beyond repair so in the bin they go. Oh well, they’ve been great boots with 8 years of service so I can’t complain. Next is BCF in search of tap fittings then we drive out to Kimberley port as they have a Natural Arch then to Gantheaume Bay to see how far out the dinosaur prints are and to check the tide which is currently high.
KIMBERLEY PORTNATURAL ARCHMINYIRR PARK
In the afternoon we pick up Ian and Rudite as we plan to go see the dinosaur footprints, then the Town Markets to see the Stairway to the Moon and dinner afterwards.
We head to Gantheaume Bay as the tide is now right but looking at the map the dinosaur prints are too far around the point, over too many rocks to make an easy walk so we head back to Minyirr bay at the Port as I’ve found some there too.
DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS
Next it’s back into town to the Markets and the Staircase to the Moon. The Stairway to the Moon is a phenomenon that occurs at Full Moons for 2-3 days between March and October when the tide is fully out and the reflection carries across the tidal flat creating a stairway of reflection to the moon.
Rudite’s and I visit the markets while Rob parks the car then meets Ian at a nearby bar to wait for sundown.
I finally find a pearl that’s within the budget I set and Rudite finds a lovely one also, so we are both happy shoppers.
As the sunsets and moonrise approaches the four of us find a position to watch from amid the thousands (no I’m not joking) of people here.
MY SOUTH SEA PEARLHERE IT COMES!
I’ve studied hard to try and get the best pictures I can on the iPhone and take lots of snaps with reduced exposure, night mode, flash off etc.
It is an amazing thing to see for real so if you visit Broome I recommend planning for it.
Next up is dinner at Divers Tavern which has been recommended. It’s busy today after the Ladies Cup and the Stairway event so there are people everywhere.
We’ve had an amazing time in Broome, despite my foot injury. It’s been lovely catching up with friends old and new and the relaxation has been good too.
I hope this finds everyone well. Stay safe and be kind.
Dates: Saturday 10 August – Tuesday 13 August 2024
Temperatures: 14 – 34, sunny & hot.
Derby
Saturday 10 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34
Hot over night and I’ve used up the last of the ice in my foot. I’m awake at dawn and Rob not long after. Today will be a slow day for me but I’m hoping we can make the famous Derby Mud Crab races this afternoon.
Rob attends to washing and a few groceries while I keep my foot elevated and watch the black cockatoos eating seeds in a nearby tree. Their raucous but gentle cries to each other sounds like they are chatting about the taste of the seeds.
Rob returns from the washing line about 200m away and shows me a picture of two Frogmouths asleep in a nearby tree. I’m determined to get there soon to see for myself but I’m still adapting to the crutches.
FROGMOUTHS
The mud crab races, held at the Mary Island Fishing Club start at 3pm. We are a bit late due to my slowness and unfortunately all the crabs are taken. We don’t mind and find chairs to watch the heats. There are 10 races, 2 semi’s and a grand final. The host Darren does a spectacular job and is hilariously funny. Punters who were lucky to buy a crab had to name the crab and give their names and where they were from. Darren introduces each crab and the “trainers” and where they are from and asks why they named the crab as they did. You would be surprised how many people named their crabs after their dogs! Darren then calls the race and along with his helpers nudges the crabs to get racing! It’s a lot of good fun.
MUD CRAB RACES, MARY ISLANDS FISHING CLUB
RACE 1
We are able to buy drinks and dinner tickets for $20. Dinner is a bbq burger, sausage, salad and a taste of mud crab!
All losers go in for a warm bath!
SUNSET – MARY ISLANDS FISHING CLUB
Rob and I had a great time. We enjoyed the jolly fun of the races, caught up with a few fellow traveler’s we met along the Gibb and dinner was good too. I gave Rob my muddy as he had done extra work all day looking after me.
Sunday 11 August 2024
Temperature: 15 – 33, hot
Another morning of resting and icing my ankle, which is starting to colour up today and quite swollen.
We plan two small outings today, both to the same place at different times to see the low and hide tides, as the tide goes out a long way.
I tried to catch the same image in three locations from the jetty to show how much the tide changes things.
LOW TIDEHIGH TIDE
At low tide we saw a lot of these odd looking fish. Maybe a type of mullet?
We also took in the sculptures around Derby after seeing the low tide and waited for the sunset after the high tide.
DERBY SCULPTER’SDERBY SUNSET
Monday 12 August, 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33, hot & sunny.
Today is our overnight trip to Horizontal falls, something both Rob and I have been very much looking forward to ever since Rob booked it 9 months ago!
We are being picked up at 12:45 so I take an early walk down to the Frogmouths without the crutches as I don’t want to take them. I figure it’ll be easier to manage all the steps on and off planes and boats without them if I can manage it. It goes slowly but I think I’ll be ok.
We are flying in a seaplane which is exciting and a first for both of us. The flight out is directly North to Talbot Bay and the return journey tomorrow flies North West over the archipelago before turning South West back to Derby.
Turns out to be a long walk out to the plane. Oh well!
We are lucky to be travelling with new friends Tony & Amanda, whom me we met at Manning Gorge – they have a Traxx Series 3.0 and an Isuzu tow vehicle same colour as ours and another group of four, two couples we met at Ellenbrae, from Alice Springs.
The landing is smooth and the water is the most gorgeous aqua blue and the surrounding environment beautifully pristine.
We are quickly disembarked, drop our overnight bags, geared up with life vest and then straight onto a jet boat. In all this I leave the bag with my camera behind so these next shots are Rob’s and the tour guides!
HORIZONTAL FALLS
The jet boat ride is exhilarating with lots of fast turns and figure eights on both sides so that we can see every angle of the coastline leading up to the Horizontal Falls.
Created by the huge tidal movements in the area moving through the gaps in the McLarty Range, which has two ridges running parallel and approximately 300 metres apart.
The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide and the second gap is about 7.5 metres wide.
Our tour guide Jack does a really good job of explaining the age and geological features of the area and promotes a healthy respect for the cultural significance of these lands for our indigenous people.
After passing in front of the first gap several times we eventually motor through which is exhilarating and then circle back and pass through again and again. The tidal fall at present is only about 1 metre but can be significantly higher we are told.
We then cross the water to view the second gap which is much narrower and are told that for cultural reasons we won’t pass through or proceed further. Instead we hover close to the gap and do figure 8’s in front of the much smaller gap.
This area is a true wonder of nature to behold and according to Jack our guide, described as the “8th wonder of the world by Sir David Attenborough. I mt’s so beautiful I totally agree.
We head back through the falls again and back out into Talbot Bay where the pontoon is moored and then further on and past then turn left up Cyclone Creek. The geological features of the ranges on either side are amazing, they are so old!
I’m sure these photos won’t do it justice but they are amazing to see!
The whole area is pristine and very beautiful. I swear I can feel the weight of time passed here and I feel very grateful to be visiting this spectacularly special place.
As the sun begins its trek towards the horizon we head back to the pontoon.
Next up we have swimming with sharks! Rob’s keen of course!
Just kidding, he actually swims next to them with a barrier. I’m surprised at how graceful and beautiful they are and I’m totally mesmerized, my fear forgotten. We have several smaller dusky sharks, one beaten up grey nurse, affectionately known as “agro” and a big lemon shark visiting.
DUSKIESROB SWIMMING WITH SHARKS!AGROLEMON SHARK
One little dusky has learnt a party trick to get attention for the barra that Jack is throwing to the sharks. He swims on his back!
Sunset is a beauty and we enjoy pre dinner snacks and a drink. Dinner is freshly wild caught barramundi pan seared with some lovely salads and grilled potatoes, followed by an apple crumble.
SUNSET TALBOT BAY
Dinner is all but over by 7:30pm and the staff say goodnight. We linger over coffee and tea chatting to our dinner companions Tony and Amanda and another couple Natalie and Ray from Victoria. My foot is up with an ice pack kindly provided by staff which is sweet relief and it’s lovely to relax before we head to our cabin around 9pm.
Tuesday 13 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 32 hot & sunny.
It’s an early start with breakfast at 6am and our overnight bag packed ready to leave. I’ve been awake since before 5am so I’m ready by 5:45am so take some early photos of the coming sunrise from the pontoon deck.
BARRA SHACK, OUR ACCOMMODATION
After a cooked and continental breakfast we are back on the boat for another trip to the falls to see the reverse tide.
Talbot bay is like glass and the sun hitting the ranges seems to make them glow. It’s cool and apart from the boat very quiet as we motor to the falls.
OUTGOING TIDE HORIZONTAL FALLS
Someone asks if you can swim through the falls. Our guide Jack answers with a story of Pearl Fisherman who were curious about this so threw a 44 gallon drum in. It disappeared and didn’t come up. The next day they found drum, flattened like a coke can. He further explained that the tides wash through all the way to the bottom of the gaps and that there are rocks at the bottom. I can see the whirlpools created so I’m thinking the answer is a firm no!
I managed to get a video snippet that shows the tidal pace on the corner. About 25km/hr! Fascinating!
We spend about half an hour slowly touring through the first fall and viewing the second before returning to the pontoon. Within minutes we see several seaplanes heading in with new guests and soon it’s time for us to leave.
PONTOON
SEAPLANE ARRIVING
From the air you can clearly see the two ridge lines of the McLarty Range that have created the phenomenon of the Horizontal Falls.
As we fly back we pass over the Archipelago which seems endless from the air, we pass the Graveyard, an area where many pearl divers have lost their lives before turning South West towards Cone and Cascade Bays. We then fly over a Barramundi Farm.
ARCHIPELAGO BARRAMUNDI FARM
We arrive back in Derby in seemingly no time. My foot is painful today after all the steps, stairs and ramps so when we get back to the van I rest up for a while.
We finish our last day in Derby with a roadtrip out to Birdwood Station to stock up on meat. Funnily enough the lady who serves us was at the hospital same day as me with a sprained ankle also so we chat.
On the way back to town we stop at the Boab Prison tree.
BOAB PRISON TREE
Wow! Derby has been amazing. So much more here than we expected!
Locations: Manning Girge, Galway Horge, Imintji, Bell Gorge, Derby
Region: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 7 August – Friday 9 August 2024.
Temperatures 17 – 34 degrees Wunamiin Miliwundi Ranges (prev King Leopold Ranges)
Total trip kilometres: 5058
Wednesday 7 August 2024
Manning Gorge to Imintji 80km’s
We had a very nice evening yesterday chatting with Greg and Tracey from Bundaberg area whom we met on the Gorge trail yesterday. We sharing stories, wine and two very nice cheese platters. A lovely evening with lovely people.
This morning we are moving onto our next camp at Imintji Community Camp where we will stay for two nights and visit Bell Gorge tomorrow.
On the way to Imintji Community Camp and just at the start of the Phillips Ranges is Galvans Gorge. We stop for a walk and a swim.
The track in is about 1km, mostly sand with a few rocks.
The Gorge when we arrive is beautiful and shady. A cool oasis on this hot day.
We both head in for a dip and visit the waterfall on the other side before I swim back and take some photos.
I see three white cockatoo’s head to the top of the fall. It’s very likely there’s a pool up there and it is obviously a favourite spot for them to drink and bathe and stepping back I see a beautiful boab tree right at the very top of the Gorge.
It is such a an awesomely lovely place, cool, peaceful and serene.
I’m reluctant to leave.
But continue on we do. Back to the car and off we head, up and then over the Phillip Ranges now heading South West and towards the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges.
As we drive, we see hills starting to appear at our sides and ranges in the distance and we have bitumen for about 20km’s, a nice change from the gravel.
Before long we see Bell Gorge camp, then Imintji Community Store and then the campground. We check in at the store and on the way to the camp see a Brahman on the side of the road and then two more big beautiful Brahman bulls sauntering down the road.
OUR CAMP
We make camp with a big golden escarpment as our backdrop and later as the sun sets I take a few snaps of the dusky, dusty wilderness.
MOON & EVENING STARIMINTJI COMMUNITY CAMP
Thursday 8 August 2024
Temperature: 19 – 34
Today we are hiking Bells Gorge which is about 45km’s from here.
We planned to set off nice and early and spend most of the hot part of the day there 9am – 3pm but were delayed by a couple seeking help around 7:30am. They had a problem with their van and needed to contact the manufacturer so we turned the Starlink on and then waited until they got a message through and then a reply back with a short term solution to keep them going so we set off about 9:00am and arrived at the Gorge around 10:00am
As we get ready to leave the car the sole of my left boot peels off so I swap to my Merry People boots.
It’s a short fairly easy walk to the Gorge with sand and then a rocky creek bed and two creek crossings.
The walk is pleasant but rocky. We make it to the gorge in about 20mins.
BELL GORGE TRACK
The second part of the track around to the falls (in red on the map) is a level 5 walk so I opt to stay at the top and take pictures of Rob swimming below, up to the falls.
The Gorge is quite long and there are already a lot of people here including an APT Kimberley tour group, swimming as I take pictures of Rob setting off for his walk.
BOOTS OFF
I walk up the Gorge beside the falls and take pictures of Rob as he comes down on the other side and has his swim. The water looks deep and I can see rocks below the surface. These places are absolutely amazing.
ROB UNDER THE FALLS
The falls are so awesome and the sound is refreshing and clear in this oasis setting.
BELL GORGE VIDEO
I take a picture of the Gorge in both directions before hopping in for a swim in one of the top pools.
The picture above shows a fellow with a white cap and black trunks on. As I was getting in to swim he eases himself over the top ledge of the falls and sits in crevasse with the water flowing around him. The rocks here all have either black or green algae on them which makes them very slippery. My nerves ratchet up as I think of how the day could be ruined for everyone present if he slipped and fell. The foolishness of people in these places never ceases to amaze me. I see the tour guide shaking his head and people in his group start to call him back, saying he’s making them anxious so it’s not only me that feels this way.
I swim up to the edge of the falls, stand about two metre’s back on a sandy patch and wave at Rob and he takes a picture of me at the top of the falls. I’m in the pink shirt!
We enjoy a great day at Bell Gorge, swimming, lounging in the rocks and chatting to people from all over the country, some international people too. We explore the rocks and spend ages watching a Mertens Monitor alternately sunning himself on the rocks and then diving into the water for a dip and repeating this over and over again. It’s beautiful with pale yellow spots on its dark brown skin.
MERTENS MONITORIN FOR A DIP
We enjoy snacks; some muesli bars I made yesterday and apples, while enjoying the cool shade from the rocks, Rob even dozing for a bit. A really lovely day… until we head back at about 2:30pm.
We walk back to the car park and visit the toilets and as I exit and head down the steps I badly roll my right ankle on an exposed rock underneath the last step. Oh no!
The pain is really bad and I can barely stand. Thankfully Rob heard my yelp and he’s there to steady me.
The pain is so bad I’m fearful I’ve done something bad, it’s all around my ankle and it can’t bear my weight.
Rob moves the car closer and with his help and my walking poles I make it to the car. The 7km drive back to Bell Gorge campground is rough and I’m in agony so when we arrive Rob rearranges the gear in the back seat and moves me there so my right foot is elevated. Then it’s another 45 odd km of rough road back to Imintji community and Rob stops at the store to get ice and then back to camp and before long my foot is in a bucket of ice water… I won’t tell you about getting the boot off!
SPRAINED OR BROKEN?
After that it’s a compression bandage, elevation and more ice. Known as the R.I.C.E first aid technique.
We have to change our plans now so decide to skip Winjana Gorge and the Tunnel Creek hike and head straight to Derby tomorrow. I’m sad about this as I know Rob was really looking forward to the walk – it involves a swim in a cave across 25metre’s with your gear in a dry bag and you need headlamps. So we will reschedule this if we can. It’s about 120km’s from the turn off to Winjana to Derby on the Gibb-Derby road. There also our trip to horizontal falls next week to consider but I don’t want to get ahead of myself.
Friday 9 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34 degrees
Imintji to Derby 193km’s.
Total trip kilometres: 5220
We awake at dawn and Rob makes coffee. Thankfully after a night of elevation and an ice bag rotating around my ankle, it doesn’t look too bad, swollen but not grotesquely so and the pain is reasonable so I’m hopeful it’s just a bad sprain. Still not weight bearing but I can put it down on the ground this morning.
My lack of mobility means Rob has to do all the jobs which we normally share.
What a trooper he is. Setting the van to travel inside and out including all the extra jobs inside to accommodate the rough road and helping me too. He’s always my hero but especially today. I’m so thankful we share our life together. Thank you handsome.
We set off around 9am and after about 30km we move into another range with steep hills either side. There’s a lookout with spectacular views which we pause to enjoy.
The road is rough and the next section of road is very uncomfortable for me with my leg elevated across the back seat. I do my best to distract myself with the scenery and trying to take pictures but it feels like it’s going to be a long day.
We pass into Hart Mountain range and the rocks show basalt and we start to see trees “scribbly pine” I think. They are small oddly twisted shaped trees.
MT HARTWUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGESWUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGESQUEEN VICTORIA HEAD
We pass Queen Victoria Head, which oddly does look like her profile, particularly from afar and then over the Lennard River and around the bend is the Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek turnoff and this marks the end of the gravel! Thank goodness.
LENNARD RIVER BRIDGE
Rob pulls off and reinflated all the tyres and we continue on to Derby arriving about 1pm.
We visit the emergency department which is quiet and I’m seen shortly after by a young doctor who examines my foot and thinks it’s just sprained but wants to x-ray to be sure. The x-ray confirms his diagnosis and I’m much relieved. A sprain is manageable enough living in the van and with crutches in hand we continue on.
Stay safe, be kind to one another and love to all.
We have already travelled well over the estimated 4300 kilometres for this section of our travels but I didn’t include side trips. I think in Katherine alone we did about 400 extra kilometres so you can see how the numbers quickly grow. Sometimes we even travel further just to fuel up. From El Questro to Derby we have 635km of the Gibb River; at least half of that gravel and the toughest part.
We leave El Questro just before 8:30am crossing the Pentecost creek at the gate.
Once back on the highway we turn left on the Gibb River road with the stunning Cockburn range now on our right.
The range will stay in sight until at least Home Valley station I reckon.
17km on we cross the Pentecost River.
LEFTRIGHT
Within 1 kilometre of the gravel road starting on the other side of the Pentecost River our aerial snapped! First casualty!
Update: The Pentecost River crossing video won’t load so I have removed it.
Home Valley Station Visit
The road is rough with corrugations and rocks and the vibrations are bone jarring at times. It’s hard to maintain any speed either – I’m talking 50-60km’s at most but even that’s difficult due to the rocks and constant floodways. You need a bit of speed on corrugated road as going slower just makes the vibrations worse.
We see the sign for Home Valley and decide to call in. It’s 4km in off the road but it’s good to stop and take a break, especially on a hard stretch.
Home Valley is charming.
HOME VALLEY STATION
As we drive out of Home Valley we see the most amazing view of the Cockburn Ranges. Wow!
COCKBURN RANGES
No long after this we see a lookout and the views of the ranges are equally stunning.
COCKBURN RANGES
Continuing on we pass two cars, the first with a puncture and then not long after coming the other way, another car with a puncture. We then pass another vehicle and the owner is trying to fix a running board that’s come loose… then we find ourselves behind a slow truck with a slew of traffic coming the other way.
TRAFFIC!
We slow to let the truck get further ahead but it makes the vibrations way worse and it’s going very slow so we eventually have to pass him which is bit scary with all the dust.
The next stretch has some bitumen with some steep up and then down, then up again. Then a creek and then we pass another car that has done a wheel, maybe the axle!
Another river crossing, this one is the Durack River. This is very very rough going!
DURACK RIVER
Just after the Durack River; which in of itself was very rough to cross, the road turn brutal, with endless corrugated gravel and large rocks everywhere, this continues the rest of the 18-20km to Ellenbrae.
Along the way we see a car coming towards us, almost sideways but he recovers, thankfully!
List of injury’s
– Broken Antennae
– Korean BBQ Sauce all through fridge
– Milk bottle sprung a hole, milk everywhere
– Shelf on bench and fixed to the wall in bathroom – all the products jumped out.
– Bathroom door off it’s runners again
– Container of Farfale pasta spilt all through cupboard.
-Bottle of ginger ale sprung a hole and all over the floor.
We consider ourselves lucky though as we saw two punctures, a broken running board and a broken axle along the way.
The sign to Ellenbrae is welcome. The camp is a bit dusty but there is a nice waterhole, complete with Freshies, but that’s ok. Rob swims, I wade. There’s also toilets and showers.
We chat to other travellers. It’s a relief to be here.
ELLENBRAE STATION STAY
After our shower and a chat with Hazel, Rob’s mum, Rob watches the Lions game while I make dinner – BBQ Steak with Potato and a Lentil Salad before we have an early night.
Monday 5 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33, bit overcast, sunny, hot
Ellenbrae to Manning Gorge 160km’s
Total trip kilometres: 5060
Sunrise
ELLENBRAE STATION
We are up early most days, today no exception. Rob makes coffee then gets stuck into finishing the repair on the ensuite door. I make breakfast, egg on sourdough toast today and start preparing for travel today. We are off to Manning Gorge and hopefully the road will get better soon.
We say goodbye to Ellenbrae about 9:00am and shortly pass over Dawn Creek.
BYE BYE ELLENBRAEDAWN CREEK
For the first hour and about 40km of driving the road remains rough like yesterday and the landscape continues to be low grassland bush.
Then we pass two young men juggling!
Weird as it sound’s, their car had overheated and they were passing the time juggling.
JUGGLERS!
For the next hour the road gets steadily better as we had heard about and hoped! We cross Ross Creek and before long come to the Kalumburu Road junction.
ROSS CREEK
At the junction we stop for a toilet break and another Traxx van comes in. We have seen this van twice this morning. A chat starts and before long other travellers join in. The conversation jumps from this road to that, this stop to that and so on. one couple are heading up the Kalumbura Road to the Gibb River camp so Rob decides we should head up there too, it’s only 3km’s…
We head up and the Gibb River looks very inviting, but it’s busy.
GIBB RIVER
We turn right off the road, hoping for a turn around but the track gets sandy and before you know it, we are bogged!
Had to happen sometime!
Rob put the Wee Beastie in low range and we got our trax out but we ended up deeper. Cal from Chinchilla and his wife Glenis who are camped nearby take pity on us and were very helpful and tow us out in no time. A big thank you and appreciation of the kindness of strangers.
Meanwhile I have spotted an Azure Kingfisher.
AZURE KINGFISHERAZURE KINGFISHER
We head off again on the last leg to Manning Gorge. The road is wide and really good and the Savannah grassland continues with some signs of either fire management or fire.
We cross a couple more water ways that look like great spots to camp.
Then we see an escarpment on our left and we know we can’t be far.
We pull in at the roadhouse, register then continue on another 7km to the camp ground. When we drive in we see our van but bigger with its own wee beastie so it’s a jinx! A chat with owners Tim and Amanda follows and we organise for a photo before together before we leave.
MANNING GORGETRAXX JINX!
After setting down we walk down to the creek for a dip. It’s beautiful with a sandy bottom and has to be swim across tomorrow with our gear in a drum at the start and finish of the gorge walk.
On the way back we see some cute finches, I have the dirtiest feet and we have a big boab right behind us.!
Tuesday 6 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 34
Manning Gorge Walk
So we set off just after 7:30 for this hike as it gets so hot in the middle of day and the UV is extreme too. We still get a hint of winter though as the heat falls out of the day around 5pm and the nights are lovely and cool.
As I mentioned the hike starts with a swim across the creek with your boots and gear in a drum. I didn’t get pictures as we started as we were offered to share a drum with two others and I didn’t want to hold them up to much.
The hike is 5.4km return, grade 4 with an elevation of 100m. The track is rocky and there are white dots and arrows to follow.
We see a few little lizards like this guy but otherwise no creatures. After getting the Azure Kingfisher yesterday my next creature of interest is the Frilled Neck Lizard.
The track meander from rock hopping to trail and back again and the last section of the walk is a gorge, down then up and then a big rocky bit of down into Manning Gorge. The first pool is gorgeous but the falls are still around the corner and down two steep rock ledge sections.
ROCK LEDGEWE CLIMBED THIS BIT!
It was worth the rock scramble. The Gorge and Falls are very pretty. There are quite a few people here, one APT tour group and some families too. The kids are jumping from the rock ledge surrounding the falls.
Rob’s in for a dip, then a walk around the falls while I take photo’s, then we swap and I swim before we enjoy a swim together.
ROB UNDER THE FALLS
The water is lovely, cool but not cold.
LOVELY SPOT TO RELAXROB ON THE ROCKS!MY DIP
We reluctantly head back around 11:00am after a couple of hours enjoying the Gorge, enjoying the views of the escarpment on the way back and our swim back across Manning Creek after a hot walk.
LAST LOOKESCARPMENT CROSSING THE MANNING CREEK
Tomorrow we head for Imintji campground and from there Bell Gorge.
After checking every bolt and screw and taping cupboards and fridge in preparation for the gravel road to El Questro and one final chat with Kay and Cliff a lovely couple from Cowra whom we met at Mataranka and then again at Kununurra, we set off.
We follow the same road to Wyndham and 55km’s along we turn left towards Mt Barnett and onto the Gibb River Road. We stop and take the obligatory pics and we’re off again. Emma Gorge is our first stop today for a hike and a swim, a further 26 km’s.
GIBB RIVER RDROAD AHEADFLOODWAYDURACK RANGESDURACK RANGES
We cross lots of floodways and have escarpments either side. We then come to the first wet crossing at King River!
Emma Gorge
Emma Gorge is beautiful and the drive in is not too bad. We check in at reception to obtain our park pass as it’s part of El Questro and then head out to the Gorge. It’s a 3.2km return hike, moderate level 4 with some rock scrambles.
ROCK SCRAMBLE!
Despite the benevolent name I didn’t enjoy the hike. It was a rock scramble most of the way which is not my favourite thing.
I didn’t take poles and got about 9/10’s of the way before I gave up. It got the better of me!
Maybe I am a bit tired after the last few busy days but I decided the best thing for me was to sit in a shady spot by a burbling pool and enjoy the space rather than pushing any further.
MY REFLECTION POOLEMMA GORGE WALLS
It’s hard to write this as I don’t give up easily but these days I’m better at listening to my gut which is why I chose to stop. I encouraged Rob to continue on and he did and had a lovely swim. These are his pictures of Emma Gorge.
EMMA GORGE
I still had to trek all the way out again and thankful did so with no harm. While I was sitting I saw three people fall, a teenager and two women. In my opinion it should not be listed as a moderate hike and I said so on All Trails!
We continue on to El Questro. We turn off the bitumen for our first section of gravel road this section of the trip and stop to let the tyres down.
We have 16km’s of gravel and it’s not too bad! Two wet crossing too.
We arrive and check in. We are here for three nights and will have to move sites after the first night. It’s a big space and I was hoping this would be sorted from when we booked but oh well! The first nights site is not great, sloping both ways but our neighbours are a nice couple. We make camp, then go for a walk and find happy hour at the Swing Bar!
THINGS TO DOSWING BAR
Friday 2 August 2024
Temperatures: 16 – 33
We both opt for a slow day today. So after a sleep in, a nice breakfast we move the van. A much nicer spot, flat with more room. After resetting we spend the morning going for a walk and then I catchup the blog and Rob does some forward planning, we have lunch, a nap, and then we have another walks around the park, shower, then head to happy hour and an early dinner at the Steakhouse. a lovely relaxing day
Saturday 3 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 34 degrees
Zebedee Springs
Today we are up early, about 5:30am and are out before 7:00am.
Off to Zebedee springs for a dip. Zebedee is about half way back down the track to the Highway and is a short hike, 600m return from the Carpark. Grade 2
It’s a beautiful spring, tropical, warm and the water is clear. There are palm trees in the water and rocks and after about 20mins we discover leeches. A lady we are chatting to nearby suddenly grabs her foot and pulls off a small leach about 3cm.
She is horrified and leaves.
I’m not as phased and remain in the spring as while longer and thankfully neither Rob nor I have the pleasure of meeting any leeches!
One the way back to El Questro I take a video of the Pentecost’s River crossing! Hope it loads for you.
After yesterday’s experience at Emma Gorge, I’m reluctant to challenge Amalia Gorge, a grade 5 walk so Rob goes alone and I stay behind and do some cooking. I bake a loaf of bread and some raspberry friands and start a lentil salad for dinner.
Amalia Gorge
Rob enjoys his hike to Amalia Gorge, 3.5km, moderate, grade 5 walk which includes two pools, lots of rock scrambling and includes a chain rock climb! He finds a fellow traveler to take some pictures of his swim.
Location: Kununurra, Mitchell Falls , Wyndham, Lake Argyll, The Bungle Bungles
Region: Kimberley NT
Dates: 29 July – 31 August 2024
Temperatures: 16 – 34
Monday 29 July 2024
After such a hectic day yesterday with our Whistle stop tour of Wyndham, Monday starts a wee bit slower. Rob starts working on the van step which has sheared off, so he’s off to the hardware for brackets and bolts to try and repair while I catch up on some blog posts. It’s lovely and warm and there is a breeze from Lake Kununurra and with a cup of tea in hand what more could you ask for.
WORKINGWRITING
In the afternoon we go and visit Hoocheys so that Rob can do a rum tasting. It’s the oldest “legal” distillery in WA. He deserves a fun afternoon after all his hard work on the step this morning, which is now back in working order. What a handy man he is.
After I drive us back from the distillery, we take a nice relaxing walk around the park, visiting the avery to see the Gouldian Finches: such colourful little birds, and the parks Boab tree before heading to the waterfront. We finish the day with a relaxing meal and some TV
GOULDIAN FINCHBOABLAKE KUNUNURRA
Tuesday 30 July 2024
Mitchell Falls Coastal Adventure
Temperatures: 18 – 32
We spend the morning with me cleaning the inside of the van and washing and Rob checking every screw in the van in preparation for The Gibb, before we get ready for the first of our Tours.
We are picked up and driven to the airport at 11:15am and after being weighed and checked in our pilot James collects us and takes us to the plane. There is just us two and a third, a lady named Cathy from NZ and we are flying in a four seat Cessna 210N.
OUR FLIGHT PATHCESNA 210 NREADY TO GO
The route takes us across Kununurra and its farmlands then straight across country to Ngamoowalem Conservation park towards Durack and then Drysdale River National Park.
KUNUNURRA FARMLANDORD RIVERDRYSDALE NATIONAL PARK
We see the road to Kalamburu off The Gibb River road and some local seasonal fire management before we arrive at Mitchell falls which we circle in a figure 8 several times before landing on nearby Mitchell plateau. The falls are a sight to behold.
KALUMBURU ROADFIRE MGTMITCHELL FALLS AND PLATEAU
Apparently you can swim in the upper pool of the falls but not the bottom due to salties.
We have a 30 minute break while the pilot refuels and some light refreshments; mango cake and juice while we wait. Cathy our NZ guest has been air sick all the way out unfortunately so she’s not feeling great.
We take off again on the next leg, up and around the Kimberley coastline. The scenery is amazing and this is the absolute best way to see the vast area of the Kimberley.
We pass over the Lawley River National Park and see all the creeks shooting off. It reminds me of a brain!
LAWLEY RIVER NATIONAL PARK
Next we fly over North Kimberley Marine Park and along the coast and to the mouth of the Drysdale River.
KIMBERLY MARINE PARK
As we start to turn South East towards Kununurra we pass over King George Falls, not really flowing at this time of year but still spectacular with the River leading up into the gorge to the falls! So beautiful and there is a yacht parked just under the falls. Wow!
KING GEORGE FALLS
Next we fly along the coastline towards Berkeley River lodge, the most Northern remote resort, across an area known as Oombulgurri. The pilot says we may see sharks, rays, turtles or crocs and he is flying low but I can’t pick anything out. The coastline is stunning however and I take way too many pictures.
BERKELEY LODGE
From here we fly across Lacrosse Island and then into the Cambridge Gulf passing over Adolphus Island and Wyndham before heading back to Kununurra.
CAMBRIDGE GULF AND ORD RIVER
We swoop back into Kununurra crossing the Ord one more time. Poor Cathy has unfortunately been sick the whole way so I quickly exchange details with her so I can send her some of my photos.
Rob and I had a wonderful time. A little bumpy over the thermals at times but wow her what a thrilling afternoon.
Wednesday 31 July 2024
Bungle Bungle Tour
Big day today. We are out for day being collected at 8:15 for our flight South over lake Argyle and to the Bungle Bungles where we will hop on a bus tour for the day including a hike into the Bungles!
We are in a bigger plane; a Cessna Caravan this time, with 13 guests in total and our pilot is Dan. Rob and I get the bench seat right at the back so have lots of leg room.
Our flight path today takes the opposite of yesterday and we soon fly over Kimberleyland Caravan park where we are staying; see if you can find the wee beastie in the photo, before following the Ord or Lake Kununurra as it’s known at this stage because it is dammed at both ends and holds a continuous level of water; to one centimeter. We then cross over farmland, including of all things Cotton!
Kununurra means black soil by the way. And there is so much water out here it’s mind boggling.
We are in a bigger plane and we soon jump over a range and see the amazing Lake Argyle stretching before us. 67km long one way and 10km across the other, it holds 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour, around 10,763 gigalitres and due to this is classified as an inland sea with the same maritime regulations!
CROCODILE ISLAND – CAN YOU SEE IT?LAKE ARGYLE
We soon cross over the amazing wave like formations of the Osborne Ranges. An absolute marvel and I see a circular area at the end and I wonder if maybe they are due to a long ago meteor hitting the earth?
OSBORNE RANGES
Our pilot informs us that we have cross into Purnululu National Park (pronounced Burnululu)and that the Bungle Bungles are just ahead and soon enough there they are. A breathtaking sight in their unusualness.
BUNGLE BUNGLES
Interestingly they were only discovered in 1982 by two film makers making a documentary about outback WA. They heard word of some unusual rocks to be seen so hired chopper pilots to take them there. These formations are unusual as they are sandstone underneath and the crusted striating colours come from rust and Cyanobacteria which creates the green in the wet and black in the dry. The crust is very thin and takes years to develop so they are quite delicate and they are white underneath.
In the late 80’s the Bungle Bungles along with Shark Bay in WA were listed under UNESCO. Interesting that the Bungle Bungles and the Stromatolites found in Shark Bay are both formed from Cyanobacteria.
After circling around the Bungle Bungles for a bit we land, then having morning tea; butter cakes, tea and coffee, before jumping on our bus. Our tour guides Mardi and Nigel will look after us today.
The bus ride is about 25 minutes and we stop for photo opportunities a couple of time before arriving at The Domes where we will do a walk to Cathedral Gorge.
MARDI EXPLAINING OUR WALK
We set off, stopping periodically as Mardi talks about the landscape.
THIN CRUSTSANDSTONE UNDERNEATH PICKANINNY GORGECREEK BEDPICKANINNY HOLESGORGE OTHER DIRECTION
As we walk I smell a burnt caramel smell and soon after Mardi mentions it and explains it’s the sticky sap from the spinifex grass growing everywhere. The sap has medicinal properties and can be used to close wounds and provides antibacterial properties that promote healing.
As we head into Cathedral Gorge, Mardi pulls us off onto a ledge and in a hushed voice quietly tells us this is a place of initiation and then points up and we see some rock art.
PLACE OF INITIATIONWOOMERASCATHEDRAL GORGE
It about 10degrees cooler in the cathedral and you can see why it’s so named with the cavernous ceiling arching above. The pool is sacred and must not be stepped in or drank from according to cultural lore from the Djaru and Gija tribes that use these lands.
Rob and I walk around the pool to the rocks at the back for our lunch break.
It’s very peaceful and a good place for quiet reflection as we enjoy our meal.
LUNCH
After lunch we make our way out of the cool of the cathedral and back into the Gorge, heading back the way we came. On the bus we head back to Bellburn airstrip to drop four people off for helicopter flights before we make our way to Savannah lodge for afternoon tea of fruit and cake.
Once back at Bellburn we’re herded back onto the plane and are soon in the air. Our return flight takes us over the Northern part of the Bungles and Pickaninny Gorge. A grade 6 multi day hike.
We then fly over the Osborne ranges again and then the now defunct Argyle Diamond mine.
As we head into Kununurra the pilot swoops around to land over the Ord River and I take the photo below and then as I look down I swear I see a big crocodile in the water!!!
All in all it’s been a fascinating few days and a privilege to see so much of this unique part of the world.
A big thank you to my darling Rob whose idea it was that we take these tours.
Tomorrow we leave Kununurra and head to Mt Barnett via the Gibb River Road. our off road adventure begins.
Katherine to Saddle Rest Stop 339 km’s (100 East of Kununurra).
Total Trip kilometre’s: 4144
Temp 19 – 31 overcast, some showers
We set off about 9am with a longish day driving. Not far out of Katherine on the Victoria Highway west we pass several convoys of army vehicles.
The landscape is dry with sparse trees and termite mounds. I look up and see a Bustard right on the side of the road, on the left! Darn missed getting a picture. He was a big one too. Not long after on the other side of the road I see two more. Missed again!
As we approach Judbarra NP it starts to drizzle and we see puddles in the roadside. The air becomes sweetly scented by the native grassland, trees and a hint of ozone. Escarpments rise majestically as we come into Victoria River and the views are breathtaking beautiful. The teasing rain bringing the outback colours of ochre, russet, yellow and green to life and we start to see lots of Boab trees
We cross the Victoria River Bridge and stop at the Roadhouse to admire the ranges around us.
We continue on as we have for another 100kms or so to our camp for the night, Saddle Rest stop
We stop again just past Victoria River as the landscape is one escarpment after another and the views are non stop. The dry land has returned to grassland with many trees small and tall and some of the Boab trees are double, some triple with the girth of a small silo and the Victoria River is beside us on the right.
The rest stop when we arrive is nearly full but we fortunately find a spot and our backdrop is yet another towering escarpment.
SADDLE REST STOP
Rob gets out the Starlink to watch the Lions v Gold Coast in the second Q Clash for the season and I bake a loaf of bread and some sourdough crackers while we watch the game. A win for the Lions 🦁 yay! Eighth in a row I think?
Dinner is a pasta and salad as I use up the last of our fresh vegetables before the border crossing tomorrow.
Sunday 28 July 2024
Saddle to Kununurra 110 km’s
Total trip km’s: 4154
Temperature: 16 – 28
A hot night, eventually cooling with a breeze around 4:30am and we wake up to a cool drizzle gray morning. Not what I expected for up here.
We have a leisurely start with coffee, bacon and eggs before doing a final check on all things fruit and vegetables and I find a packet of slightly dried “fresh” basil hiding in the fridge. Darn I could have used that last night in the pasta sauce! Oh well.
We set off and the escarpment we were parked under continues for some way and morning showers again bring all the colours to life.
We cross into WA and the border quarantine check is quick and easy.
The only thing I didn’t think about was some frozen Thyme in the freezer which is a no no due to the woody stem. The officer appreciates my efforts though so no fine thankfully and then she offers us an extra 1.5hours today due to the time change!
Our first views on Kununurra are a Croc Wise sign and then a wetland as we come into town
We are staying in Kununurra for four nights as Rob has organise two tours, one to Mitchell Falls and a second to the Bungle Bungles. We check in, then do groceries and return and set up the van and as it’s still not quite midday decide to drive to Wyndham, another 200km’s there and back for the afternoon.
Wyndham is a port town in the gulf and the juncture of five rivers and we are told well worth a visit.
Molly Springs
22km from Kununurra towards Wyndham and down a rough 3km track is a lovely spot to swim with a little waterfall. Rob swims then gets out to take photos and moments after I get out of the water a fellow in the water start screaming “snake in the water”! Rob manages to get a photo when it clears the water at the tree just behind me in the third photo below and it looks like a brown!
Oh the fun of the outback!
MOLLY SPRINGS
We continue on and our next stop is The Grotto, a waterhole surrounded by 80m vertical cliffs. It has 140 stone and concrete steps you can take down to view it and of course we do. Imagining all the while what it would look like with waterfalls around all sides during the wet.
The Grotto
THE GROTTO
Back in the car, Rob and I both find an odd similarity in the landscape with Scotland! The road undulates through soaring hills that are sparse and dry, similar to some of the valleys we passed through in Scotland on the West 500 in 2019. The difference is the lack of wet green that you see in Scotland but it’s still eerily familar?
Maggie’s Valley
Approaching Wyndham we come around a bend and into a stunning Valley known as Maggie’s Valley. I can see why she loved it here so much.
The Big Croc
We arrive Wyndham and find the big croc! What a beauty!
The Big Boab
This tree is over 2000 years old!
Wyndham Port
Our next stop is Wyndham Port. Gazetted in 1886 the port serviced the cattle industry and gold prospectors and at one point was home to the biggest abattoir in the Southern Hemisphere at the time.
Five Rivers Lookout
Our next and last stop on our whistle stop tour of Wyndham today is the Five Rivers Lookout and a must see if you visit the area. The lookout is high with nearly 360 degree views of the surrounding area and it’s stunning with views over the Ord, Durack, Forrest, King and Pentecost Rivers.
FIVE RIVERS LOOKOUT
A great place for sunset but very overcast today.
Wow we have had a busy weekend and we are both delighted by what we’ve seen so far of the Kimberley and we are both looking forward to our tours this week very much.
We hope you all had a good weekend too. Stay safe and take care of each other.
Tuesday is part jobs, part exploring so first up is starting a load of bread. Once all the folds are done and the bread is set aside for its first rise we head out to Lucky Bay Brewery; just outside of town, for lunch.
Before going to lunch we check out Wylie Bay. This piece of coast can be driven on, due to the crusty compacted white sand and its a 22km drive from there to Cape Le Grand.
Wylie Bay is beautiful, with some rocky areas and one you can cross a small inlet to. Once out on the rock we spy “Sammy”.
Sammy is the name used for every seal that visits Esperance. We spied Sammy cavorting in the shallows but they soon moved further out, presumably due to us. I was fortunate to get one reasonable photo of their little face peaking out of the water.
SAMMY AT WYLIE BAYWYLIE BAYLUCKY BAY BREWERY
Lunch at Lucky Bay was awesome. We enjoyed a Prosciutto, Tomato and Rocket Salad and a Hellfire Pepperoni Pizza!
Wednesday 14 February 15 – 26 degrees
Happy Valentine’s Day!
A cooler day today so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he met and had a chat with.
The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though, which is good to see.
Wharton Bay is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.
WHARTON BAYTOP SPOTVIEW EASTVIEW SOUTH VIEW NORTH
We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.
We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and discomfort, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere we have been lately and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work! If anyone knows of a good deterrent and or remedy for bites, please let me know.
We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.
BEAUTIFUL BANKSIA SPECIOSATABLE ISLAND DUKE OF ORLEANS BAYCORDINGUP TAVERN LUNCH
Thursday 15 February, 18 – 37 degrees
It’s a hot one today so I’m up early cooking, baking bread and washing clothes, then grocery shopping.
When we leave Esperance we plan to travel back up to Norseman then across the Nullabor fairly quickly as we will be off grid and are expecting a few hot nights with the current heatwave. Having a couple of meals ready will help reduce heat in the van and makes for an easy evening after a long day driving. Yesterday I made a batch of San Choy Bow, today Ratatouille and as most meals last two days that will get us through to Sunday.
My left foot has swollen during the mornings work so I elevate it for a while and we finish the day with a lovely swim at Twilight Beach.
Tomorrow we head off, back towards SA. Stay safe and be kind.
A cooler day today and Valentine’s Day so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he had met and had a chat with.
The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though which is good to see.
Wharton is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.
WHARTON BAYTOP SPOTVIEW EASTVIEW SOUTH VIEW NORTH
We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.
We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and pain, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere along the coast and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work!
We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.
Thursday 15 February, temp 18 – 37
On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.
We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.
During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.
Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.
This picture courtesy Wikipedia.
How it used to look.
PINK LAKE PRIOR TO 2017
Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance
10 MILE9 MILE8 MILE4 MILEOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTTWILIGHT BEACHSALMON BEACH
Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24
Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.
Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!
ESPERANCE STINEHENGE
Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.
First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.
LE GRAND BEACHMOUNT LE GRAND
We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.
FRENCHMAN PEAK from lookout opposite
On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.
A cooler day today so Rob is taking me for a drive out to Wharton Bay; 100 km East along the Coast towards Cape Arid, on recommendation from a local fellow he had met and had a chat with.
The drive is unassuming and the landscape could be outback in any state really, with a mix of low rolling pastoral land and scrub. There are more stands of trees between pasture blocks though which is good to see.
Wharton is just beyond Cordingup and it’s worth the trip. A beautiful Bay with that same stunning white sand. We climb a short trail up an overlooking rock formation for the most spectacular views.
WHARTON BAYTOP SPOTVIEW EASTVIEW SOUTH VIEW NORTH
We head down for a swim amongst the surfers and it’s very refreshing.
We sit on the beach to dry off and unfortunately I get bitten by a March Fly on the top of my left foot. My skin reacts badly to these bites so I know I’m in for a few days of swelling, itch and pain, even with antihistamines and SOOV a gel I got onto a while ago. These flys have been everywhere along the coast and it seems the only deterrent is a slap as Aerogard certainly doesn’t work!
We leave Whartons Bay and head to Condimgup Tavern for lunch.
Thursday 15 February, temp 18 – 37
On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.
We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.
During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.
Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.
This picture courtesy Wikipedia.
How it used to look.
PINK LAKE PRIOR TO 2017
Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance
10 MILE9 MILE8 MILE4 MILEOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTTWILIGHT BEACHSALMON BEACH
Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24
Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.
Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!
ESPERANCE STINEHENGE
Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.
First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.
LE GRAND BEACHMOUNT LE GRAND
We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.
FRENCHMAN PEAK from lookout opposite
On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.
We left Hopetoun around 10am and head back up the highway towards Ravensworth before turning left onto the Jerdacuttup Road.
Along the way we stop to see items of the Farm Gate Art trail exhibit that we’d glimpsed on the way in to Hopetoun.
With temperatures reaching 40 on the highway, once again as we approach Esperance and the coast, the temperature drops to a much more comfortable 27 degrees on arrival. We are staying for six days at the Esperance Bay Holiday Park which is at the end of the Esplanade adjacent to the Port Harbour.
After setting up we take a long walk along the Esplanade and the Jetty. The path is lined with towering pines – Norfolk I think and the esplanade has lots of interesting activities for children including a bike track, a mini railway, a skate park and several dedicated swimming areas, one with a pontoon and swimming lanes!
NEW TANKER JETTYVIEW ACROSS BAY TO CAPE ARIDESPERANCE TANKER PORTMURAL
Back at the van we finish the day with Lamb Roast and chargrilled vege then enjoy drinks with our neighbours Tony and Dale from Glebe NSW and Mark and Sue from Sunshine Coast QLD.
Sunday 11 February, temp 18 – 37
On Sunday we head to the local market for an early breakfast, a shared egg, spinach and bacon wrap, a lamb roti and two coffees.
We explore the market stalls and purchase a dozen black figs and 10 green ones – we both enjoy figs with Gorgonzola as a treat.
During the midday heat we relax and I catch up on some washing and as the afternoon cools we head out to see the Pink Lake and explore Ocean Drive.
Despite its name Pink lake has not been the bubblegum pink of previous years since about 2017. This is due to changes in climate and salt levels. Hopeful it will one day be this pink again but today it is pale blue/green.
This picture courtesy Wikipedia.
How it used to look.
PINK LAKE PRIOR TO 2017
Ocean drive extends past Pink Lake, behind Esperance and to the Indian Ocean then back to Esperance
10 MILE9 MILE8 MILE4 MILEOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTOBSERVATORY ISLAND LOOKOUTTWILIGHT BEACHSALMON BEACH
Monday 12 February, temp 18 – 24
Today we head out to explore Cape Le Grande National Park. About 12km out we visit Esperance Stonehenge. I had read about this place and was keen to visit. It doesn’t disappoint and it really is a wonder. Original started in 2002 but later stalled due to finance. It was taken up by a local farmer in 2010 and completed 2011. It is a complete replica of what Stonehenge was when built including lining up for summer and winter solstice but rather than Sandstone is made of Pink Granite.
Its quirkiness, set here in WA takes me and I feel complete as my visit to the original in 2019 was somewhat disappointing due to it being fenced off and not being able to wander the stones. For good reason no doubt but still… here we could wander at will, touch and admire the beauty of the design and concept. Awesome. Love it!
ESPERANCE STINEHENGE
Onward to Cape Le Grand National Park about 53km from Esperance.
First stop is Cape Le Grand beach. There is a camp ground here and a 18.5km coastal walking trail through to Rossiter Bay via Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. Some parts are level 5 but it looks like an interesting walk. Perhaps for another visit.
LE GRAND BEACHMOUNT LE GRAND
We then head to Frenchman Peak, a 262m elevation level 5 walk Rob is keen to tackle. I sit this one out due to some tendinitis in my left foot, admiring the view and writing.
FRENCHMAN PEAK from lookout opposite
On his return we then head for Lucky Bay, so named by Matthew Flinders when he stopped there in the xx in 1798 and also touted to be the whitest beach in Australia with squeaky sand. It doesn’t disappoint and although the water is cool – estimate 15 degrees we enjoy a lovely dip.
It feels sad to be leaving Perth after five months of it being our base. Especially hard to be saying goodbye for now, to family and friends.
BrunswickTuesday 6 Feb
Happy birthday to Lynda D for yesterday xx.
Rob and I set off for Brunswick, then leave the van at the towns RV stop on the oval and then drive to “Honeymoon Pool” a campground on the Collie river. Not suitable for caravans unfortunately but a great spot for camping.
The water is so clear you can see the bottom and the campground has a platform and steps down to the water. We swim and chat with other travellers during the heat of the afternoon before setting off to find Wentworth Dam wall and its famous murals, part of the Collie mural art trail.
View back to Bunbury, heading towards CollieHoneymoon PoolGreat spot to swimWentworth Dam Wall & MuralMural 2 UnknownRock pit for the wall – now a parkBrunswick Main Street (can you find Daisy?)Front of RV park
Collie – Dumbleyung Wednesday 7 Feb
Happy birthday Kay Fry xx. Temp 19-35.
Rob and I start the day with a quick trip to Bunbury farmers market. For a foodie like me, it’s an amazing place with some really great ingredients like Harissa and Za’ atar! After a quick breakfast of Rhubarb & Greek Yogurt Granola, spinach and Ricotta roll and coffee we hit the market. Beware though it’s a bit like IKEA – one way only. Take your time and enjoy 🤩.
Bunbury Farmers Market Entrance
Back at the van we load groceries and hitch the van , then set off for Collie and the art Trail walk.
The art trail is scattered around the centre of town and links to the murals at the Dam wall in the Ferguson Valley that we visited yesterday. We arrive at 12:30 and it’s 32 degrees which is hot but not too bad and so we do part of the walk. The murals are interesting and some of them are really stunning. A few of my favourites here.
MARINA LOMMERSE & MICHAEL PHILLIPS, THE GIRL IN THE SHOP WINDOW, 2020MARINA LOMMERSE & MICHAEL PHILLIPS, FRIDAY NIGHT AT THE THEATRE ROYALE, 2020AUDREY FERNANDES-SATAR & ARIF SATAR, GROUND, 2020DONALD COOK, JONES FAMILY 2020UNKNOWNUNKNOWN SHAKEY (JACOB BUTLER) WITH GUIDANCE FROM JOE NORTHOVER, BORONIA GULLY, 2021
Collie is a great town with lots of walking trails and the Munda Biddi bike trail passes through here. The town has a lovely park in the centre with toilets and showers and the Main Street on the other side of the rail line which runs through the middle is full of charming historical buildings that are still in use today.
Wish we could stay longer…
Our next stop is our camp at Dumbleyung, 160km East of Collie so round 200kms today. On the way we pause at Wagin to see the big ram. Wagin reminds me of Harden-Murrumburrah NSW, where I grew up as it too is wheat and sheep country with rolling hills and in late summer, dry as toast!
The Big RamWagin Community ParkRed Tailed Phascogale (on branch) at risk!Mitchell Hall 1895
Our camp tonight is at Dumbleyung oval and I bake bread before we set off the next day.
Dumbleyung is a small town in this vast wheatbelt. It has lots of history including the land speed record set by Donald Campbell in in his vehicle the Bluebird.
On December 31, 1964 a crowd gathered on the shores of Lake Dumbleyung to watch English speedster Donald Campbell break a world water speed record.
Mr Campbell clocked an incredible 444.71kph across the lake in his bright blue hydroplane, the Bluebird.
Earlier that year, Mr Campbell set a land speed record at Lake Eyre in South Australia.
Massey Hay Binder 1920G.O.D.I. Grande Olde Dumbleyung I. CWABluebird
Dumbleyung – Hopetoun Thur 8 Feb
Temperature 19 – 38
Still heading East, oOur drive today has lots of very straight roads and continuing wheat fields.
We pass through Lake Grace literally; which is mostly salt, as the lake is on both sides of the road. Lake King further on is mostly salt alsoand then we run towards the South.
Lake GraceLake King
Between Lake Grace and Ravensthorpe we moved into the South East region WA.
About 15kms out of Ravensthorpe the temperature at 38 starts to drop and by the time we reach Hopetoun it’s at a much cooler 25.
Hopetoun Thursday 8 Feb – Sat 10 Feb
Temps 17-27 – perfect 🤩
We were hoping to free camp with a beachside stay but on arrival it was full so luckily the local beachside caravan park could accommodate us. After setting down we spend the afternoon exploring the beautiful beach. The water is cool and the sun is warm.
Friday we spend the day exploring the Fitzgerald National Park. We visit Mt Barren and the lookout, then Cave Point and West Beach for a swim.
Mt BarrenRoyal HakeaMt Barren Lookout Lookout back to Hopetoun
Cave Point is awesome and we can see Mt Barren to the left and West Beach to the right.
Cave Point with Mt BarrenWest BeachThe Cave
West Beach is beautiful, wild and windy and we have the whole place to ourselves. We explore rock pools and find one sheltered from the wind, almost like a spa!
His own spa!Beautiful Rock formation Pristine white sand!
We finish the day with sunset on the beach after an early dinner. Hopetoun is lovely, isolated, quiet and cool. A great place to relax with a great National park to explore nearby. One to come back too I think.
Next stop Esperance.
Lots of love to all. Stay safe and be kind to one another.
Dates: Tuesday 23 January – Friday 2 February 2024
Temperatures: 14 – 36 (including Heatwave)
Swan ValleyWed 23 – Fri 26 January
This is our last trip out from Perth exploring this great state of WA. The weather has been hot and we were looking forward to some cooler weather heading South and time on the beach.
Originally when we booked Swan Valley Tourist Park (a while ago) we were imagining lazy walks and some winery visits. Instead we find ourselves doing van maintenance and weekly jobs of bread making and washing on the first day we arrive.
York Wednesday 24 January
Rob really wanted to see the historical town of York, the oldest inland town of WA so on our second day in the Swan Valley we head out there, about 1hr, 87km West of Swan Valley.
We spend the day following the heritage trail, visiting the sick factory and enjoying lunch at the Imperial hotel.
Avon RiverSelfieRib the Swing BridgeTown HallMouse Door!Main Street – Avon TerraceYork lookout towards Avon TceYork lookout Nth West
Our second day of Swan Valley is taken up with bread baking, more maintenance (Rob working on the Stone Stomper and me cleaning windows and more cooking) before we head out to Funk Cider about 500metres from the park!
We enjoyed lazy paddles of cider for me and beer for Rob before heading back and joining our fellow neighbours Ann and Kenny for dinner with other family and friends. A great night, thanks for the invitation Ann!
Pinjarra Fri 26 January
On Australia Day we left Swan Valley heading inland for the long weekend. We headed South West towards Pt Heron to hopefully catch up with my niece Lynda who was camping there with other friends. Along the way we passed through Pinjarra and I spied a sign for the best meat pie in Australia 2021! Of course we had to stop!
The Beef and Beef and Mushroom pies went down a treat and we also had a Vanilla Slice and tropical smoothie. All were very good!
Vanilla SliceBaby Galah resting in the shade
Waroona Fri 26 January
We’ve found most WA towns to be full of charm, history and often very RV friendly. Waroona was one such of these.
Overnight camp on the oval Friday 26th
Wahroona OvalShowgrounds Art History
Yarloop Sat 27 Jan – Mon 29 Jan
1.5 hour South West of Perth on the South Western Highway. Overnight in the towns RV stop with toilet and sink but no soap or hand washing facilities. 14-34 degrees.
Yarloop is a charming National Trust heritage town with ties to the wood milling industry. The whole town was severely affected by bushfires in 2016, losing 2 lives and 220 homes. The quiet town , now mostly rebuilt still shows signs of recovery. Rebuilding has included a new Heritage trail which records the history of the old milling town’s original characters and buildings with photos along a 3.5km walk taking in most of the town and the railway line.
A lovely stay not far from the coast but far enough to enjoy the beautiful night skies and the full moon over the long weekend away from crowds as WA enjoys the last weekend of the school holidays. A great spot to catch up with my niece Lynda and enjoy some quality time catching up over prawns, crab, roast lamb with ratatouille and chocolate cake!
Options to explore nearby include the towns steam workshops which provide guided tours and Logue Brook Dam sound good for a picnic & swim.
Full moon At 5am!Historical WalkOne Tree ParkHistorical Steam Engines
BunburyMonday 29 Jan – Wed 31 Jan
This is our third visit to Bunbury a thriving coastal community with beautiful beaches, coastal paths and lots to see and do.
Known as the “City of three waters” for the roaring Indian Ocean, nearby Koombana Bay and Leschenault estuary.
A heatwave is predicted Wednesday 31 January- Friday 2nd February so we were lucky to be heading to the Coast in the days leading up to this. We spent the days with early morning walks, swimming and long bike rides including a visit to Bunbury Farmers Market. One of the best ever so don’t miss it if you get the chance to go!
Sunset from our van on Ocean DriveWyalup Rocky Point Beach Bunbury
Australind Thursday 1 Feb – Fri 2 Feb
Another favourite place to stop is Christina Reserve on the Leschenault Reserve, a free council stay that requires booking for up to 48 hours either toilets nearby.
The day we arrive it got to 36 so we spent most of the day relaxing in the shade to avoid the heat. On the second day we walk out on to the Eco Discovery walk and watch crabbers, people fishing and enjoy the abundant bird life. The day is heating up though so on return we elect to drive back into Bunbury, (about 20km) for a swim, shower then lunch and a movie in aircon.
Sunset Leschenault EstuaryBreakfast!Blue SwimmerSth view estuary amSo many Black Swans2nd Sunset
Friday morning we head back to Perth for our last weekend before starting to head East again. We have a great time with my niece Lucy, her daughter Clare & Ryan and the beautiful Zoe and baby Dustin and catch up with Lynda too (Happy Birthday for next week).
So nice to spend time with family.
At the marketsStory time
A big thank you to Louise, a wonderful friend who hosted us each time we returned to Perth. We will miss you.
Our plan while in WA for the next 5-6 months; with Louise kindly offering her house as as our base in Perth, is to explore the bottom half of the state by taking 1- 3 week trips away at a time. If you think of it like a daisy with Perth the centre, our loops will be like the petals. Due to our delay in leaving the East Coast it will be too hot to travel the far North this year so we will save that for next year.
We have my daughter Carly arriving on Saturday night on a short three day stay as she heads to Singapore so we decided to take a short trip and on Monday 28th August we head East from Perth towards Brookton then Corrigin where we will stay two nights, leaving the van and just taking the car the extra distance to Wave Rock, a total of 330 kms from Perth.
The drive out is filled with lots of green and gold pasture all the way from Brookton to Corrigin which surprises Rob and I; thinking it would be sparse and dry, but this region is known as the Wheatbelt and covers a vast area both West and South from Perth. It’s beautiful country.
We camp for the night at free camp in the centre of town. Nice and flat, quiet with public toilets nearby that are well maintained with soap and paper towel. It’s surprising how important well maintained facilities become when you travel like this!
Green and Gold PasturesPassing BrooktonCamp at Corrigin
On Tuesday we head out for Wave Rock, leaving the van at Corrigin. We can stay a max 72hours.
We pass through Kondinin, then stop at Kalgarin to admire some artwork and check out some wildflowers before heading on to and Hyden and Wave Rock.
Wave Rock is a now a chargeable experience for visitors and the park includes a cafe.
The rock is a short stroll from the car park and there is a bush tucker walk on the way. The face of the rock presents itself around a curve and it is a breathtaking sight. It’s darker than I thought it would be and the colours and sheer size of the curve are extraordinary to say the least. Rob and I goof around trying to sit on the curve and he tries to Surf it!
Wave RockHyden catchment On top of Wave RockMini Wave
We walk up the rock and across the top taking in the catchment and views. It has been quite interesting to discover so many outback areas originally used these large rocks to catch and contain water and many are still in use along with other newer systems. Wave rock still has many areas of the low walls originally built around it in evidence of this practice.
As we walk we see a Sandalwood tree which is rare as these were nearly all collected out of existence in this area due to their export value to Asian counties for joss sticks (incense). We also see lichens and a few wild flower growing in Gnamma holes on the top face of the rock.
Sandalwood TreeLichen and flowers in Gnamma holesMore LichenMore Flowers
We continue walking, making our way down and then across to take in Hippo Yawn and then further on to the salt lake which is near the resort.
Big cracksHippo’s YawnHippo’s YawnSalt Lake
We finish our walk around the park taking in the wildlife and as we go read about Mulka’s cave nearby. The cave has a very interesting story about Mulka which I will leave for you to discover if you visit and is thought to be one of the most prodigious examples of Aboriginal Art with over 200 hand prints in the cave. Worth a visit.
Region: Flinders Rangers and Outback, Eyre Peninsula, Goldfields & Esperance
Dates: 13 August – 16 August 2023
Temperature: 6 – 18 degrees
It was a cool morning when we left Streaky Bay but we were very excited to be heading out into the Nullabor, one of Australia’s truely great drives.
Fun fact, Nullabor loosely translated from Latin means “ no trees”. Null = None or No and abor = trees.
We drive through Perlubie and Penong to Ceduna our first stop where we had planned to pay to fill the water tanks and get fuel (Rob had found a good price on Petrol Spy) but on arrival found the town in the middle of a planned electricity outage, so the water and fuel station we planned to visit were shut! Fortunately we found the BP was still open and very busy, running on a generator and we were able to get both fuel ($$$) and water (free). Interesting the problems that crop up as you travel and the best laid plans of mice and men and all that goes with it!
Our camp for tonight Sunday 13/8 and Monday 14/8 is on the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight and it’s also our first 4×4 camp, driving off road and over dunes to the cliffs.
After finding the exit which is often tricky with Wiki Camps; being just a dirt track off the highway and no signage, we carefully drive the bumpy track and tight corners and the hump of the dunes with no problems and make our camp. The view of the cliffs is amazing to say the least, the power of the waves against the 120+ metre cliffs, the colours, the Great Southern Ocean are all awe inspiring. It’s nice to have a two nights here to take it in and explore.
PerlubieEyre HighwayStraight RoadsTraffic!The Bight CliffsOur camp in the background !
With our full day on the cliffs we plan a walk and later I’m going to bake bread. I had spent the previous day working the dough in the car as we drove, dutifully folding the dough every hour and it had proven slowly overnight in the fridge.
The day showed promise of being clear so we were hopeful of seeing some whales also. Our bush walk explored the cliffs and the incoming track, and we also hunted for wild flowers and the sink hole we had read about. Apparently there lots of sink holes all along the coastline.
To finish our day we set a hot fire to bake the bread, before cooking dinner in the camp oven, fennel and garlic sausages with roast veg. Unfortunately baking bread directly in the coals is too hot (lesson learned) but I was able to salvage most of the the loaf after removing part of the bottom crust.
The track from the highwayWildflowersWildflowers Lichen!Our campfire and viewFooty on the Bight!SinkholeThe Bight with sun
Later in the day Rob saw a Petrel over the sea and I saw a Sea eagle near camp.
Hot camp fireThe dough goes inLooks good but too dark underneath Campfire dinnerRelaxing at nightSunrise on the Bight
On Wednesday we left early and as we drove out saw hundreds of cobwebs covered in dew. It’s always surprising to find life in arid areas and by the amount of webs it’s obvious there are lots of spiders and insects.
The landscape continues to change and delight and we stop at every cliff and coast viewpoint enjoying the sights, stopping just outside Cocklebiddy to bush camp again. On Thursday we stop in to see the wedge tailed Eagles (thanks Kay 😍) Samantha and Bruce before heading off. I took a photo of the sign so you can read about them and how we must all take great care on the roads to prevent hitting them.
2nd SunriseCobwebs in the dunesCoastal cliff viewCoast Cliff viewCoastal Cliff ViewWildflower amongst the coastal rocksSamantha and BruceWedgetail information
Our third day of driving on the Nullabor is to Norseman. I’ve heard a lot about this town from my brother law Jon Fry who worked there for a period and has told me about the stunning Great Western Woodlands nearby.
As we leave Cocklebiddy, Rob spies an Emu dad with three chicks (no photo) close to the road. They are very cute with their stripped feather camouflage and we are delighted by the sight.
This drive has the longest straight stretch of road in Aus 246.6km. The last few days we have had lots of radio traffic from pilots of oversized vehicles and we are very glad to have the UHF as without warning it may be difficult to move off the road in time, due to the sometimes high and steep shoulders.
On the way into Norseman we had a shower of rain which changed all the colours in the landscape. On arrival we camped at Norseman RV park, very good and now has toilets (open 8:00-4:00) and close to the dump point.
After setup we visited Lyn Webb’s “Gallery of Splendid Isolation” and said hello as Kay and Jon know him. His outback photography is breathtakingly beautiful and not to be missed.
Later we had dinner at the local hotel and watched the Matilda’s in the Semi Final and while we didn’t get a win it was great to see the team advance so far in the World Cup and to see such great National support. Well done Matilda’s!
Australia’s longest stretch of straight roadSome treesRain in the woodlands.Beacon Hill Norseman lookoutNorsemanTin Camel Roubdabout
All in all the Nullabor has been a great drive with lots to see and do. We think we might even do the golf links on the return journey.
Tomorrow we are off to Kalgoorlie.
Hope you are all safe and well. Be kind to each other. xx
Physio my way 
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