Locations: Cowell, Whyalla, Pt Augusta, Hawker, Wilpena Pound

Regions: Eyre Peninsula, Flinders Ranges & Outback

Dates: Wednesday 6 March – Monday 11 March 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 42 degrees, hot, sunny, some cloud.

Wednesday 6 March, 17 – 38 degrees

We are up early and I quickly add starter, salt and water to my flour prepped yesterday to start a loaf. I will do stretch and folds on the road today, always challenging and this is a high hydration loaf 85% so we will see how it goes.

We are away by 8:30am but stop in Tumby Bay to dump the chemical toilet and we run into the same historian we met at Elliston. Today he suggests we take the Igloo Road (gravel) off the highway, then left onto Beach Road (nice tarmac) into Cowell with great camping points along the coast. We take his advice and enjoy the nicest drive along the coast and into Cowell which is a lovely town full of historical buildings and silo art too. I put it on the list to revisit one day if possible.

We continue on past Whyalla and Port Augusta, only stopping to refuel and to pick up a few groceries. Rob picks up new thongs too, having lost his Archie’s changing shoes for a walk in Port Lincoln NP!

Leaving Port Augusta we turn left onto Flinders Way and almost immediately the range start to unfold in front of us on the right, reminding us both of an Albert Namatjira painting.

We stop in Quorn, a gorgeous little town 40km from Port Augusta. We need to vote in Qld local council elections by phone and we are not sure of service next week so today’s the day. It takes a while and a local shopkeeper approaches, thinking something is wrong as we pace about in the heat on our phones. Love country people and their hospitality.

We head on to Hawker, admiring the outback scenery as we go. We stop at the pub and sit in the cool for a while admiring all the local art, with a drink before heading out to our camp for the night, 10km out and when I check my dough the first rise is significantly higher than double so I think I’ve overdone it!

Our camp is by the highway with views East and West of the amazing Flinders. Ranges.

Thursday 7 March, 24 – 36 degrees

Today we heard to Wilpena Pound. It’s been a hot night and overnight I developed an ear ache. This is concerning as I have a history and can get very sick with ear infections, I had some drops on hand which I’ve used but being in the outback and heading further out leaves me uneasy.

We drive back to Hawker and then turn onto Flinders Ranges Way with about 60km to drive to Wilpena Pound.

The name comes from the Aboriginal word for cupped hands, Wilpena and Pound the English word for enclosure. With the Ranges almost fully enclosing an area.

We take it slow to stay in the cool and enjoy all the lookouts along the way.

We arrive, set up and I rest in the aircon of the van on a powered site. We had planned to do some hikes but with the heat (38 at 1:50pm) and my ear that’s probably not going to happen. Rob will likely do some early hikes though.

Later we go to the pool, then stay to experience the welcome to country ceremony from a local Adnyamathanha man which is fascinating and full of history.

Friday 8 March, 24 – 42 degrees

After a bad night with my ear it’s back to Hawker we go and most of the day is taken up with seeing a doctor then getting scripts filled. I missed the cut off but Rachel the pharmacist phoned the scripts through to Quorn for filling and they were due back at 3pm. Unfortunately only half of the antibiotics were supplied but I’m hopeful that will be enough. Back to Wilpena and to bed for me. Rob goes for a swim and a late afternoon walk.

Saturday 9 March 24 – 42 degrees

Rob suggests we drive the loop through two gorges, essentially cutting through Wilpena Pound to the Outback Highway then down the highway to the Moralana Way and back across to the Flinders Ranges Way, about 100km’s.

We set out about 10am.

We head up Flinders way toward Blinman then turn left towards Bunyeroo Gorge. The drive is a postcard at every turn. We see lots of Wedgies, three, then a group of ten or more, the most I’ve ever seen together but too high to photograph, the Cazneaux Tree and a hikers hut on the Heysen Trail.

The drive meanders through and across many creek beds and we wonder what it’s like when it rains!

Next up is Razorback lookout taking in St Mary’s Peak; the highest peak in the ranges. The scenery is amazing, raw and wild.

Continuing on we pass into Brachinya Gorge, and the road gets even tougher, through many creek beds and rock formations. At one point I spy what I think is a Yellow footed Rock Wallaby sheltering in the heat in a small cave.

Coming out of Brachinya, there is a very rough gravel road back the highway, then we turn left again and it’s 30km of highway past spectacular ranges before turning left again through the Moralana Way.

42 degrees at 1:50pm.

Once back at Wilpena I rest up for the afternoon and evening while Rob goes for a swim and I hope for a better night.

Sunday 10 March, 24 – 38 Degrees

A very quiet day. I catch up on washing and continue to take it easy, hoping the antibiotics will kick in. It’s unpleasant as my ear is blocked so I can’t hear, constant headache and discomfort. I’ve had worse though so it’s bearable.

Monday 11 March, 23 – 35 degrees

We leave Wilpena today, heading for Leigh Creek overnight before heading to Arkaroola on Tuesday. We decide to travel back to Hawker then up the highway, rather than out to Blinman and through the gorges on gravel. After our loop we are not sure how tough this would be so opt for the longer route on bitumen.

The heat is relentless and another rough night for me so it’s nice to be in the car…

We check out our overnight stay, just 5 kms south of Leigh Creek. Lovely view then head into Leigh Creek then Copley pub 5 kms on for dinner. The owner has two very spunky Staffy puppies which she brings out and the TBone and Fish n Chips were brilliant! Friendly and thought service.

Thank you Copley Pub!

Hopefully feeling better tomorrow.

Love to all.