Tag Archives: Hiking

Aussie Lap – Geraldton to Dongara & Wildflower Way WA

October 1, 2024 Maryann McDougall 1 Comment

Locations: Geraldton, Dongara, Mingenew

Regions: Mid West WA

Dates: 22 September – 27 September 2024

Temperature: 12-26 windy, sunny and bit warmer today.

Starting km’s 11405, 25km drive

We aren’t going far today so after leaving the caravan park we to Geraldton foreshore and walked along the foreshore. Along the way we saw the old ship going out; apparently this rarely happens, and we also browsed the Sunday markets.

Once Coles opened at 11:00am we pick up a few groceries then drive to Bringo Camp, a favourite from last year, about 25 km out of Geraldton on the Mount Magnet Road. Set high on a hill it has lovely views back towards the coast and surrounding countryside.

We spend a relaxing afternoon in the van with Rob rewatching yesterday’s game and I cook up a storm making banana bread and then Nachos for dinner.

Monday 23 September, 2024

Temperature: 10-24 Sunny, Patch of morning fog. Winds Southerly 25-35km’s

Starting km’s: 11435

Only a short drive today, 84km and we arrive Dongara about 10:30am. It’s sunny but a cool 21 degrees with a steady breeze. After we make camp we opt for a bike ride around town, about 8km’s on a trail we have done before. My foot is ok for the most part but then I wrench it a bit trying to stop and turn the bike.

My ankle is swelling less now (in week 7) but the ligament and tendon damage is still apparent every day. Nevertheless I need exercise so I am are starting to exercise more each week.

On the cycle back, we stop at Denison seafoods but they are not open as it’s the Monarch’s birthday today in this area in WA.

Tuesday 24 September, 2024

Temperature: 10-23, windy, cloudy

It’s very cool with the wind and it looks to be increasing today so we do some maintenance and cleaning, I cleaned the van windows and screens while Rob hand washed parts of the car. It’s a challenge: cleaning the car and van, as most caravan parks won’t let you use a water hose or pressure wash so it’s either find a car wash that will take vans and fit that in the travel schedule or otherwise do it by hand bits at at a time. The wind gets worse as the day progresses so we head inside after lunch.

Wednesday 25 September 2024

Temperature: 9-27 wind 22kmh Southerly gusting to 33, sunny.

This morning is nicer than it’s been so we opt to walk into town. It’s a 10km there and back so it will give my ankle a workout. We are heading for a cute coffee shop called poppies which is just over the river. Along the way we take some pics of the old jetty, the park and Rob picks some flowers for me. He’s such a gentleman!

I make it to the coffee shop and about 3/4 of the way back (9km) before opting for Rob to get the car…

Thursday 26 September 2024

Temperature: 16-24, warmer overnight, sunny, still breezy.

Rob goes for a run and I rest my foot, sore after the walk yesterday. Then we buy some seafood from Denison’s, Coffin Bay Oysters and Tiger Prawns for lunch and dinner and we also buy Mussells, Sardines and Schnapper for the freezer.

I make a pear, rocket and parmesan salad with walnuts to go with the Oysters and Prawns. Yum!

Other than catching up on some washing it’s another quiet, relaxing day.

Friday 26 September 2024

Temperature: 9-18 rain at Dongara

Starting km’s: 11555

Quite cool overnight and we wake to an overcast rainy day. Our first one in a while. We are up early and in and out of the van preparing to leave as we can between showers.

Today we are heading for Mingenew, 57 East of Dongara, as we leave the coast and head inland. It’s school holidays this week and next in WA and during the holidays we tend to head away from the coast as it gets busy and more expensive at the parks and we prefer the quiet of free camps. Our booking at Dongara was a lucky one considering the school holidays.

Mingenew is on the Wildflower Way and our plan is to head out as far as Westonia to catch up with my niece Lucy who works in a mine near there, before we continue further South skirting around Perth towards Bunbury and Margaret River.

At Mingenew, we camp up at Enanty Historical Barn c. 1870 a rest stop on the outskirts of town. Mingenew is a small town with a small grocery, popular bakery and pub where we hope to watch the Grand Final tomorrow.

Saturday 28 September 2024

Temperature: 5-20, rain overnight, very cool day.

It was very cool overnight and a crisp morning. We feel like we’ve been thrown back into Winter for the last few days, even putting our extra blanket back in the bed. Such a contrast from Karijini just a few weeks ago.

Today is all about the AFL Grand Final. With Rob and I both fortunate to have both our teams make the final; from very different positions mind you, we have had a fun week “bumping “ and ribbing each other, making bets and the big day is finally here.

To fill time we spend the morning going for a bit of a drive to a couple of lookouts and to see some wildflowers.

Dressed in team colours; Rob is wearing a Lions polo from their last premiership in 2021 and I’m resplendent in Swans colours of red and white, we can’t wait to go to the pub and for the game to start.

There are about 8 people ready to watch the game and a few others drift in and out of the beer garden as the afternoon progresses. Unfortunately I am the only Swans supporter for quite while. The Swans start well and the first quarter is a good contest. The second quarter is a whitewash though with the Brisbane Lions kicking 7 goals to Sydney’s 1 and Brisbane take the game from then on with dominance and purpose. I would have liked a better contest but it was a great to see the Lions win so decisively, especially after last years loss by 4 points.

We have had a fun filled afternoon watching the game and chatting with other travelers from Qld. I think Richard said it best – “the Swans look like a team that has already peaked and are on a downward trajectory while Brisbane are just hitting their peak”. Well said and well done to the Lions who worked so hard all year!

A quick note on lunch at the Commercial Hotel Mingenew. The Steak sandwich was probably the best I’ve ever eaten! The steak was so tender and the accompanying onion, beetroot, egg and salad were all just perfect. Yum!

Tomorrow we continue on the wildflower way towards Westonia.

Love to all. Stay safe and take care. Be kind to one another.

Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Karratha to Exmouth WA

September 9, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Locations: Karratha, Yannarie, Exmouth, Cape Range National Park WA.

Regions: Pilbara, Gascoyne WA

Dates: 29 August – 1 September 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 37degrees

Starting kilometres: 7128

Thursday 29 August

Temp: 18 – 37, hot and sunny

We leave Karratha around 9:30am with a long day of driving ahead. Hoping to do about 340 kilometres.

About 5 kilometres out we receive a rock strike on the windscreen from a truck cutting in to soon after overtaking which gives both of us a scare but thankfully no damage.

The landscape changes more often today as we move through Mardie. I think we have Hammersley Range on our left and then we cross over the Fortescue River. The third longest river in the state it is named after Chichester Fortescur, Parliamentary under Secretary of State for the Colonies in 1861.

Fortescue is also a family name on Rob’s mum’s side of his family.

By 11:30am it’s 35 degrees as we pass over the Robe River, wide and mostly dry.

We then come to an overpass at Fortescue with a gravel road running underneath in either direction and lots of radio chatter between a stationary vehicle and road trains turning left and right onto the highway, with a Mining operation nearby, we suspect.

An hour later, in the distance more ranges appear and Parry Range comes into view as we pass Cane River Conservation Park. By 1:00pm we reach Nanutarra Roadhouse and here we refuel.

We arrive at our camp for tonight, Yannarie around 2pm. We relax in the shade of the van til sundown before an early dinner and night.

Friday 30 August 2024

Yannarie to Exmouth

Temp: 17 – 30, cool breeze over night and morning, warm and sunny.

I’m awakened at 3:30 by a stiff breeze and it’s cooler than it’s been for days. The cool change is welcome relief after all the heat.

I’m looking forward to seeing the Coast again at Exmouth and after about 40km’s today we enter the Gascoyne region before turning right onto Warlu Way towards Coral Bay, Exmouth and Cape Range National Park. We will be in the Gascoyne Region for the next few weeks.

80 kms along the Warlu way we pass Bullara station. We will return and spend time at Bullara Station in mid September. Due to bookings we will be doing a bit of criss crossing in this area in the next few weeks.

Then we turn right again toward Exmouth.

We are staying at the RAC Exmouth park for two nights. Unfortunately when we arrive it’s very windy. Wind is prevalent all along the WA coast so you just never know how it will be and you have to take the bad with the good. I’m hopeful that the wind will die down by the time we get out to Cape Range national Park so that we can enjoy the best of the Ningaloo reef while we’re there.

After set down and a bit of a break we head out to explore Exmouth with a drive out to the start of the Cape Range NP and the Vlaming Head lighthouse which is about 25km’s out.

While there we read that the lighthouse is the only point in Australia where you can get both sunrise and sunset from the one point so we decide to rise extra early on Sunday to catch sunrise out here before we head out to Cape Range and then do sunset out there.

Saturday 31 August 2024

Exmouth to Cape Range NP

Temp: 17 – 28 sunny and windy 25 – 45kph with gusts

A very slow day today. The wind is gusting and it’s very unpleasant so we have a cruisy morning with egg and bacon rolls then do a a few groceries then a drive around Exmouth.

We visit a new Marina estate and while checking out the boats I see a huge eel swimming underwater along the rock wall. He’s obviously hunting for his lunch!

Sunday 1 September 2024

Temp: 20 – 30 cool & breezy morning, sunny.

We rise at 5:30am, dress and grab a jacket as it’s cool and breezy, then jump in the car and drive to the lighthouse. It’s magnificent to see the light in the sky change through a myriad of colour and to experience sunrise like this on the WA coast.

After about 1/2 an hour we head back into town pack up and hitch and then head back out again, this time continuing down the Ningaloo Coast Road for another 36 km’s with the coast on our right and Cape Range on our left to our booked spot at MESA campground. The wind has settled as the day progresses and we are looking forward to the next three days exploring Ningaloo Reef.

We arrive, set down and have a chat to Rick and Val, the volunteer camp hosts then throw on togs and we are off for a snorkel at Turquoise Bay. Rob does some drift snorkeling on the current while I choose to swim and let my ankle just enjoy the cool water.

We spend a couple of hours enjoying the water before heading back to van where I have planned a roast lamb for Rob for Father’s Day. We enjoy the sunset in the dunes with a glass of wine and agree it’s been a perfect day!

Happy Fathers Day to all the dad’s we know . Stay safe and take care of one another.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Eighty Mile Beach to Karratha WA

September 7, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Eighty Mile Beach, Pardoo & Cape Keraudren, Port Hedland, Karratha WA

Regions: Kimberley, Pilbara WA

Dates: Sunday 25 August – Thursday 29 August 2024

Temperatures: 24 – 37 degrees, hot!

Starting kilometre’s: 6490

Today we are leaving Eighty Mile Beach heading for Karratha with a couple of stops along the way.

The weather has really heated up and we hear on radio national that in the last few days 140 year old August temperature records are being broken all over the Kimberley and Pilbara regions!

Up until the last couple of days the nights have been nice and cool provided welcome relief from the hot days but last night it only got down to 24 and that’s on the coast so you can imagine what inland temps are like!

Today we are traveling 173 kilometre’s to De Grey River Free camp, moving into the Pilbara and driving mostly along the coast.

Still traveling along the Great Northern Highway we turn right at Pardoo towards Cape Keraudren which is about 6 kilometre’s, mostly bitumen.

Cape Keraudren is a Nature Reserve not part of WA parks so day and overnight fees apply to visit. We arrive at 11:30am and it’s already 36 degrees. Rob wants to walk to a blowhole nearby so I elect for a shorter stroll to the boat ramp and enjoy views of the coastline.

Continuing on we pass Pardoo heading South to our overnight camp on DeGrey River. Rob walks to the river but it’s dry. Next morning as we leave we cross another bridge on the DeGrey River and this one has water.

Monday 26 August 2024

Temperature: 20 – 38 sunny and hot.

Today we are passing through Port Hedland for fuel and supplies but not stopping. We plan to Freecamp again on our way to Karratha.

As we are driving towards The Port we pass a very long train loaded with ore and a large salt mining operation.

Fun fact, each carriage carries 140 tonne of ore and each train has 140 carriages!

Just after this we are on a dual carriageway and a driver alongside of us makes a circling motion attracting my attention. Something must be wrong so we pull over and the driver does too then comes back to tell us the drivers side wheel of the van is on an angle! He thinks we may have done a bearing.

I immediately start searching for caravan repairers and calling, after 3 attempts I get onto Bruce Rock engineering and they say to head over, they can take a look.

Based on advice from a tyre guy a while back Rob bought two hub and bearing kits in case so we have our own spares if needed.

Bruce Rock assess and it’s not the bearings at all, the wheel is slightly loose by about 5ml which is negligible and he’s amazed that the guy could see this from the road. Phew! Crisis averted!

In any case it’s good to have both wheels checked and tightened and the service is at a very reasonable cost.

By 12:30pm we are back on the road and back to our brief tour around the Port of Hedland. We visit Pretty Pool on the way out and then it’s onto refueling and supplies before heading back to the highway. Good to be back in the car too as it hit 39 degrees at 2:30pm.

We cross Yule River which is very wide has no water but some cows are wandering about and our camp tonight is at Peawah River.

Tuesday 27 August 2024

Temperature: 18-34, sunny and hot

On the highway by 9:30am and this morning we saw a Flock of Emu’s; the first for a while, hills start to appear and the vibrant Stuart Dessert Pea pops up in patches alongside the highway from Whim Creek for about 10km’s. The temperature hits 33 degrees at 10:30am!

We cross Sherlock and then little Sherlock Rivers. One with water, one without. So different.

We turn towards Roebourne and briefly stop for a break. I grab a coffee from the community cafe and it’s a good one! Thank you Roeburne Cafe.

We arrive Karratha about 12:30pm. The town is very nice, tidy and obviously has lots of industry around mining..

We are here two nights and after set down we head out to Dampier, a further 20km’s to see the coast. We’ve heard the pub; the Mermaid, has great views and cheap meals so maybe dinner out tonight.

As we drive out, there is a long causeway with salt lakes either side and when we arrive the pub does have a lovely view and we think the sunset will be good so we decide to have an early dinner.

Wednesday 28 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 35, hot and sunny

I’m awake early as usual and find a message from a girlfriend in Qld bearing sad news. An old friend has passed away tragically and unexpectedly.

Suzy and I knew each other through my daughter’s primary school years. She was an amazing woman, full of fun, spirit and a very kind person.

I feel so sad for her children, young adults going forward without her and for a life lived but taken too young.

The news weighs heavy. Times like this, it’s hard to be away from the support of friends but they are also just on the other end of a chat too which I take comfort from.

A quiet day of contemplation, washing and preparation for our onward trip towards Exmouth tomorrow.

Give your loved ones a hug. Stay safe and well.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Broome to Eighty Mile Beach

August 31, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Broome, Barn Hill, Eighty Mile Beach WA

Regions: Kimberley WA

Dates: Wednesday 21 August – Saturday 24 August 2024

Temperatures: 18 – 37 hot and sunny

Starting kilometer’s: 6096

We leave Broome around 10am with the destination of Barn Hill Beach Side Station stay 149 kilometre’s away so not a long drive today.

The landscape is arid and dry, flat and there are not a lot changes along the way. It’s also very hot today.

Barn Hill Station is a 10km drive off the Great Northern Highway along a red gravel road with four gates. At every gate we find vehicles behind our vehicle so naturally I wait to let them through. They all say thanks but not one offers to wait to shut the gate, despite my limping. Nothing surprises me these days.

The station is set along a clifftop, has a cafe where you can order the days meal, buy coffee and pastries and fresh baked bread. There are amenity blocks, huts to camp in and you can walk or drive down onto the beach.

After set down we head down to the beach for a slow walk.

The beach is lovely and currently at low tide with an amazing 7 metre tide change (probably due to the full moon this week) so goes out a long way revealing all sorts of beautiful rock and sand sculptures along the coast line.

On our return to camp we seek and find Tony and Amanda’s van; friends made in Manning Gorge. We stop by to say hello and chat a while before heading back to our van.

Thursday 22 August 2024

Temperature: 21 – 28, warm and sunny

The next day Rob takes an early run on Barn Hill Beach and I rest my foot – too much walking yesterday. Later we wander over to the cafe to get a loaf of their whole grain high top bread to go with our snags in bread for tea tonight.

At the top of the cliffs we find some pink mulla mulla wildflowers.

Later Rob returns to the beach for a high tide picture and then sunset.

Friday 23 August 2024

Temperature: 21 – 28 sunny

We have a longer drive today, 256 kilometre’s trekking down the coast line to Eighty Mile Beach.

The landscape remains desert dry, arid and flat for most of the drive with floodplains and an escarpment glimpsed in the distance.

We stop at the aptly named Sandfire roadhouse to refuel. It’s busy with a queue for fuel that takes 30 minutes!

Again we turn right off the highway towards Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park and head down another red gravel road for 9 kilometre’s to the park. No gates today thankfully.

The park is spacious and our site is on grass and shady which is a welcome change to the red dirt and sand sites of late.

After set down we take a walk to the beach. There’s no swimming due to crocodiles and stingers and as if that isn’t enough all the fisho’s are catching sharks!

The beach is a stunner though with attractive aqua water and a lovely breeze. It can be driven on though so even more caution required…

The walk to the beach, then along and back again is enough for my ankle , it’s also very hot the past few days so we retreat into the shade for the remainder of the afternoon.

We head back to the beach for sunset and it’s a beauty over the water. The tide has gone so far out, about a kilometre at least we thought and amazingly I seem to catch a stairway to the sun photo over the flats!

Saturday 24 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 34, hot & sunny

Today is even hotter so I catch up on some washing and making bread. My loafs aren’t optimal at present as I’m using lower protein flour, a different wholemeal to feed, it’s consistently warmer and I’m baking in the van oven so I’m trying a levain, made from my starter Millie then fed, bloomed and used in the dough but that’s not really working either. My loafs have a good crumb but there is no real rise which is frustrating.

In the cool of the late afternoon I see a pheasant walking across the top of the hedge next to the van and some White breasted Woodswallows I think, high in the treetops. If I’m correct they are related to the Artamidae family of Butcher birds, Currawongs and Magpies here in Australia.

WHITE BREASTED WOODSWALLOW

Tomorrow we are off again leaving the Kimberley for the Pilbara as we head towards Port Hedland and Karratha.

Stay safe everyone, keep well and be kind.

Lots of love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Derby to Horizontal Falls

August 26, 2024 Maryann McDougall 3 Comments

Location: Derby, Horizontal Falls

Region: Kimberley’s WA

Dates: Saturday 10 August – Tuesday 13 August 2024

Temperatures: 14 – 34, sunny & hot.

Derby

Saturday 10 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 34

Hot over night and I’ve used up the last of the ice in my foot. I’m awake at dawn and Rob not long after. Today will be a slow day for me but I’m hoping we can make the famous Derby Mud Crab races this afternoon.

Rob attends to washing and a few groceries while I keep my foot elevated and watch the black cockatoos eating seeds in a nearby tree. Their raucous but gentle cries to each other sounds like they are chatting about the taste of the seeds.

Rob returns from the washing line about 200m away and shows me a picture of two Frogmouths asleep in a nearby tree. I’m determined to get there soon to see for myself but I’m still adapting to the crutches.

The mud crab races, held at the Mary Island Fishing Club start at 3pm. We are a bit late due to my slowness and unfortunately all the crabs are taken. We don’t mind and find chairs to watch the heats. There are 10 races, 2 semi’s and a grand final. The host Darren does a spectacular job and is hilariously funny. Punters who were lucky to buy a crab had to name the crab and give their names and where they were from. Darren introduces each crab and the “trainers” and where they are from and asks why they named the crab as they did. You would be surprised how many people named their crabs after their dogs! Darren then calls the race and along with his helpers nudges the crabs to get racing! It’s a lot of good fun.

MUD CRAB RACES, MARY ISLANDS FISHING CLUB

RACE 1

We are able to buy drinks and dinner tickets for $20. Dinner is a bbq burger, sausage, salad and a taste of mud crab!

All losers go in for a warm bath!

Rob and I had a great time. We enjoyed the jolly fun of the races, caught up with a few fellow traveler’s we met along the Gibb and dinner was good too. I gave Rob my muddy as he had done extra work all day looking after me.

Sunday 11 August 2024

Temperature: 15 – 33, hot

Another morning of resting and icing my ankle, which is starting to colour up today and quite swollen.

We plan two small outings today, both to the same place at different times to see the low and hide tides, as the tide goes out a long way.

I tried to catch the same image in three locations from the jetty to show how much the tide changes things.

At low tide we saw a lot of these odd looking fish. Maybe a type of mullet?

We also took in the sculptures around Derby after seeing the low tide and waited for the sunset after the high tide.

Monday 12 August, 2024

Temperature: 16 – 33, hot & sunny.

Today is our overnight trip to Horizontal falls, something both Rob and I have been very much looking forward to ever since Rob booked it 9 months ago!

We are being picked up at 12:45 so I take an early walk down to the Frogmouths without the crutches as I don’t want to take them. I figure it’ll be easier to manage all the steps on and off planes and boats without them if I can manage it. It goes slowly but I think I’ll be ok.

We are flying in a seaplane which is exciting and a first for both of us. The flight out is directly North to Talbot Bay and the return journey tomorrow flies North West over the archipelago before turning South West back to Derby.

Turns out to be a long walk out to the plane. Oh well!

We are lucky to be travelling with new friends Tony & Amanda, whom me we met at Manning Gorge – they have a Traxx Series 3.0 and an Isuzu tow vehicle same colour as ours and another group of four, two couples we met at Ellenbrae, from Alice Springs.

The landing is smooth and the water is the most gorgeous aqua blue and the surrounding environment beautifully pristine.

We are quickly disembarked, drop our overnight bags, geared up with life vest and then straight onto a jet boat. In all this I leave the bag with my camera behind so these next shots are Rob’s and the tour guides!

The jet boat ride is exhilarating with lots of fast turns and figure eights on both sides so that we can see every angle of the coastline leading up to the Horizontal Falls.

Created by the huge tidal movements in the area moving through the gaps in the McLarty Range, which has two ridges running parallel and approximately 300 metres apart.

The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide and the second gap is about 7.5 metres wide.

Our tour guide Jack does a really good job of explaining the age and geological features of the area and promotes a healthy respect for the cultural significance of these lands for our indigenous people.

After passing in front of the first gap several times we eventually motor through which is exhilarating and then circle back and pass through again and again. The tidal fall at present is only about 1 metre but can be significantly higher we are told.

We then cross the water to view the second gap which is much narrower and are told that for cultural reasons we won’t pass through or proceed further. Instead we hover close to the gap and do figure 8’s in front of the much smaller gap.

This area is a true wonder of nature to behold and according to Jack our guide, described as the “8th wonder of the world by Sir David Attenborough. I mt’s so beautiful I totally agree.

We head back through the falls again and back out into Talbot Bay where the pontoon is moored and then further on and past then turn left up Cyclone Creek. The geological features of the ranges on either side are amazing, they are so old!

I’m sure these photos won’t do it justice but they are amazing to see!

The whole area is pristine and very beautiful. I swear I can feel the weight of time passed here and I feel very grateful to be visiting this spectacularly special place.

As the sun begins its trek towards the horizon we head back to the pontoon.

Next up we have swimming with sharks! Rob’s keen of course!

Just kidding, he actually swims next to them with a barrier. I’m surprised at how graceful and beautiful they are and I’m totally mesmerized, my fear forgotten. We have several smaller dusky sharks, one beaten up grey nurse, affectionately known as “agro” and a big lemon shark visiting.

One little dusky has learnt a party trick to get attention for the barra that Jack is throwing to the sharks. He swims on his back!

Sunset is a beauty and we enjoy pre dinner snacks and a drink. Dinner is freshly wild caught barramundi pan seared with some lovely salads and grilled potatoes, followed by an apple crumble.

Dinner is all but over by 7:30pm and the staff say goodnight. We linger over coffee and tea chatting to our dinner companions Tony and Amanda and another couple Natalie and Ray from Victoria. My foot is up with an ice pack kindly provided by staff which is sweet relief and it’s lovely to relax before we head to our cabin around 9pm.

Tuesday 13 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 32 hot & sunny.

It’s an early start with breakfast at 6am and our overnight bag packed ready to leave. I’ve been awake since before 5am so I’m ready by 5:45am so take some early photos of the coming sunrise from the pontoon deck.

After a cooked and continental breakfast we are back on the boat for another trip to the falls to see the reverse tide.

Talbot bay is like glass and the sun hitting the ranges seems to make them glow. It’s cool and apart from the boat very quiet as we motor to the falls.

Someone asks if you can swim through the falls. Our guide Jack answers with a story of Pearl Fisherman who were curious about this so threw a 44 gallon drum in. It disappeared and didn’t come up. The next day they found drum, flattened like a coke can. He further explained that the tides wash through all the way to the bottom of the gaps and that there are rocks at the bottom. I can see the whirlpools created so I’m thinking the answer is a firm no!

I managed to get a video snippet that shows the tidal pace on the corner. About 25km/hr! Fascinating!

We spend about half an hour slowly touring through the first fall and viewing the second before returning to the pontoon. Within minutes we see several seaplanes heading in with new guests and soon it’s time for us to leave.

SEAPLANE ARRIVING

From the air you can clearly see the two ridge lines of the McLarty Range that have created the phenomenon of the Horizontal Falls.

As we fly back we pass over the Archipelago which seems endless from the air, we pass the Graveyard, an area where many pearl divers have lost their lives before turning South West towards Cone and Cascade Bays. We then fly over a Barramundi Farm.

We arrive back in Derby in seemingly no time. My foot is painful today after all the steps, stairs and ramps so when we get back to the van I rest up for a while.

We finish our last day in Derby with a roadtrip out to Birdwood Station to stock up on meat. Funnily enough the lady who serves us was at the hospital same day as me with a sprained ankle also so we chat.

On the way back to town we stop at the Boab Prison tree.

Wow! Derby has been amazing. So much more here than we expected!

We are off to Broome tomorrow.

Stay safe and look after one another.

Cheers, Maryann & Rob xx

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – Manning Gorge to Derby

August 11, 2024 Maryann McDougall 3 Comments

Locations: Manning Girge, Galway Horge, Imintji, Bell Gorge, Derby

Region: Kimberley WA

Dates: Wednesday 7 August – Friday 9 August 2024.

Temperatures 17 – 34 degrees Wunamiin Miliwundi Ranges (prev King Leopold Ranges)

Total trip kilometres: 5058

Wednesday 7 August 2024

Manning Gorge to Imintji 80km’s

We had a very nice evening yesterday chatting with Greg and Tracey from Bundaberg area whom we met on the Gorge trail yesterday. We sharing stories, wine and two very nice cheese platters. A lovely evening with lovely people.

This morning we are moving onto our next camp at Imintji Community Camp where we will stay for two nights and visit Bell Gorge tomorrow.

On the way to Imintji Community Camp and just at the start of the Phillips Ranges is Galvans Gorge. We stop for a walk and a swim.

The track in is about 1km, mostly sand with a few rocks.

The Gorge when we arrive is beautiful and shady. A cool oasis on this hot day.

We both head in for a dip and visit the waterfall on the other side before I swim back and take some photos.

I see three white cockatoo’s head to the top of the fall. It’s very likely there’s a pool up there and it is obviously a favourite spot for them to drink and bathe and stepping back I see a beautiful boab tree right at the very top of the Gorge.

It is such a an awesomely lovely place, cool, peaceful and serene.

I’m reluctant to leave.

But continue on we do. Back to the car and off we head, up and then over the Phillip Ranges now heading South West and towards the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges.

As we drive, we see hills starting to appear at our sides and ranges in the distance and we have bitumen for about 20km’s, a nice change from the gravel.

Before long we see Bell Gorge camp, then Imintji Community Store and then the campground. We check in at the store and on the way to the camp see a Brahman on the side of the road and then two more big beautiful Brahman bulls sauntering down the road.

We make camp with a big golden escarpment as our backdrop and later as the sun sets I take a few snaps of the dusky, dusty wilderness.

Thursday 8 August 2024

Temperature: 19 – 34

Today we are hiking Bells Gorge which is about 45km’s from here.

We planned to set off nice and early and spend most of the hot part of the day there 9am – 3pm but were delayed by a couple seeking help around 7:30am. They had a problem with their van and needed to contact the manufacturer so we turned the Starlink on and then waited until they got a message through and then a reply back with a short term solution to keep them going so we set off about 9:00am and arrived at the Gorge around 10:00am

As we get ready to leave the car the sole of my left boot peels off so I swap to my Merry People boots.

It’s a short fairly easy walk to the Gorge with sand and then a rocky creek bed and two creek crossings.

The walk is pleasant but rocky. We make it to the gorge in about 20mins.

The second part of the track around to the falls (in red on the map) is a level 5 walk so I opt to stay at the top and take pictures of Rob swimming below, up to the falls.

The Gorge is quite long and there are already a lot of people here including an APT Kimberley tour group, swimming as I take pictures of Rob setting off for his walk.

I walk up the Gorge beside the falls and take pictures of Rob as he comes down on the other side and has his swim. The water looks deep and I can see rocks below the surface. These places are absolutely amazing.

The falls are so awesome and the sound is refreshing and clear in this oasis setting.

BELL GORGE VIDEO

I take a picture of the Gorge in both directions before hopping in for a swim in one of the top pools.

The picture above shows a fellow with a white cap and black trunks on. As I was getting in to swim he eases himself over the top ledge of the falls and sits in crevasse with the water flowing around him. The rocks here all have either black or green algae on them which makes them very slippery. My nerves ratchet up as I think of how the day could be ruined for everyone present if he slipped and fell. The foolishness of people in these places never ceases to amaze me. I see the tour guide shaking his head and people in his group start to call him back, saying he’s making them anxious so it’s not only me that feels this way.

I swim up to the edge of the falls, stand about two metre’s back on a sandy patch and wave at Rob and he takes a picture of me at the top of the falls. I’m in the pink shirt!

We enjoy a great day at Bell Gorge, swimming, lounging in the rocks and chatting to people from all over the country, some international people too. We explore the rocks and spend ages watching a Mertens Monitor alternately sunning himself on the rocks and then diving into the water for a dip and repeating this over and over again. It’s beautiful with pale yellow spots on its dark brown skin.

We enjoy snacks; some muesli bars I made yesterday and apples, while enjoying the cool shade from the rocks, Rob even dozing for a bit. A really lovely day… until we head back at about 2:30pm.

We walk back to the car park and visit the toilets and as I exit and head down the steps I badly roll my right ankle on an exposed rock underneath the last step. Oh no!

The pain is really bad and I can barely stand. Thankfully Rob heard my yelp and he’s there to steady me.

The pain is so bad I’m fearful I’ve done something bad, it’s all around my ankle and it can’t bear my weight.

Rob moves the car closer and with his help and my walking poles I make it to the car. The 7km drive back to Bell Gorge campground is rough and I’m in agony so when we arrive Rob rearranges the gear in the back seat and moves me there so my right foot is elevated. Then it’s another 45 odd km of rough road back to Imintji community and Rob stops at the store to get ice and then back to camp and before long my foot is in a bucket of ice water… I won’t tell you about getting the boot off!

After that it’s a compression bandage, elevation and more ice. Known as the R.I.C.E first aid technique.

We have to change our plans now so decide to skip Winjana Gorge and the Tunnel Creek hike and head straight to Derby tomorrow. I’m sad about this as I know Rob was really looking forward to the walk – it involves a swim in a cave across 25metre’s with your gear in a dry bag and you need headlamps. So we will reschedule this if we can. It’s about 120km’s from the turn off to Winjana to Derby on the Gibb-Derby road. There also our trip to horizontal falls next week to consider but I don’t want to get ahead of myself.

Friday 9 August 2024

Temperature: 18 – 34 degrees

Imintji to Derby 193km’s.

Total trip kilometres: 5220

We awake at dawn and Rob makes coffee. Thankfully after a night of elevation and an ice bag rotating around my ankle, it doesn’t look too bad, swollen but not grotesquely so and the pain is reasonable so I’m hopeful it’s just a bad sprain. Still not weight bearing but I can put it down on the ground this morning.

My lack of mobility means Rob has to do all the jobs which we normally share.

What a trooper he is. Setting the van to travel inside and out including all the extra jobs inside to accommodate the rough road and helping me too. He’s always my hero but especially today. I’m so thankful we share our life together. Thank you handsome.

We set off around 9am and after about 30km we move into another range with steep hills either side. There’s a lookout with spectacular views which we pause to enjoy.

The road is rough and the next section of road is very uncomfortable for me with my leg elevated across the back seat. I do my best to distract myself with the scenery and trying to take pictures but it feels like it’s going to be a long day.

We pass into Hart Mountain range and the rocks show basalt and we start to see trees “scribbly pine” I think. They are small oddly twisted shaped trees.

We pass Queen Victoria Head, which oddly does look like her profile, particularly from afar and then over the Lennard River and around the bend is the Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek turnoff and this marks the end of the gravel! Thank goodness.

Rob pulls off and reinflated all the tyres and we continue on to Derby arriving about 1pm.

We visit the emergency department which is quiet and I’m seen shortly after by a young doctor who examines my foot and thinks it’s just sprained but wants to x-ray to be sure. The x-ray confirms his diagnosis and I’m much relieved. A sprain is manageable enough living in the van and with crutches in hand we continue on.

Stay safe, be kind to one another and love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – El Questro Station to Manning Gorge Campground

August 6, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: El Questro, Ellenbrae, Manning

Regions: Kimberley WA

Dates: 4 August 2024 – 6 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34 degrees, hot

Sunday 4 August

El Questro to Ellenbrae 169km’s

Total trip kilometres: 4860

We have already travelled well over the estimated 4300 kilometres for this section of our travels but I didn’t include side trips. I think in Katherine alone we did about 400 extra kilometres so you can see how the numbers quickly grow. Sometimes we even travel further just to fuel up. From El Questro to Derby we have 635km of the Gibb River; at least half of that gravel and the toughest part.

We leave El Questro just before 8:30am crossing the Pentecost creek at the gate.

Once back on the highway we turn left on the Gibb River road with the stunning Cockburn range now on our right.

The range will stay in sight until at least Home Valley station I reckon.

17km on we cross the Pentecost River.

Within 1 kilometre of the gravel road starting on the other side of the Pentecost River our aerial snapped! First casualty!

Update: The Pentecost River crossing video won’t load so I have removed it.

Home Valley Station Visit

The road is rough with corrugations and rocks and the vibrations are bone jarring at times. It’s hard to maintain any speed either – I’m talking 50-60km’s at most but even that’s difficult due to the rocks and constant floodways. You need a bit of speed on corrugated road as going slower just makes the vibrations worse.

We see the sign for Home Valley and decide to call in. It’s 4km in off the road but it’s good to stop and take a break, especially on a hard stretch.

Home Valley is charming.

As we drive out of Home Valley we see the most amazing view of the Cockburn Ranges. Wow!

No long after this we see a lookout and the views of the ranges are equally stunning.

Continuing on we pass two cars, the first with a puncture and then not long after coming the other way, another car with a puncture. We then pass another vehicle and the owner is trying to fix a running board that’s come loose… then we find ourselves behind a slow truck with a slew of traffic coming the other way.

We slow to let the truck get further ahead but it makes the vibrations way worse and it’s going very slow so we eventually have to pass him which is bit scary with all the dust.

The next stretch has some bitumen with some steep up and then down, then up again. Then a creek and then we pass another car that has done a wheel, maybe the axle!

Another river crossing, this one is the Durack River. This is very very rough going!

Just after the Durack River; which in of itself was very rough to cross, the road turn brutal, with endless corrugated gravel and large rocks everywhere, this continues the rest of the 18-20km to Ellenbrae.

Along the way we see a car coming towards us, almost sideways but he recovers, thankfully!

List of injury’s

– Broken Antennae

– Korean BBQ Sauce all through fridge

– Milk bottle sprung a hole, milk everywhere

– Shelf on bench and fixed to the wall in bathroom – all the products jumped out.

– Bathroom door off it’s runners again

– Container of Farfale pasta spilt all through cupboard.

-Bottle of ginger ale sprung a hole and all over the floor.

We consider ourselves lucky though as we saw two punctures, a broken running board and a broken axle along the way.

The sign to Ellenbrae is welcome. The camp is a bit dusty but there is a nice waterhole, complete with Freshies, but that’s ok. Rob swims, I wade. There’s also toilets and showers.

We chat to other travellers. It’s a relief to be here.

After our shower and a chat with Hazel, Rob’s mum, Rob watches the Lions game while I make dinner – BBQ Steak with Potato and a Lentil Salad before we have an early night.

Monday 5 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 33, bit overcast, sunny, hot

Ellenbrae to Manning Gorge 160km’s

Total trip kilometres: 5060

Sunrise

We are up early most days, today no exception. Rob makes coffee then gets stuck into finishing the repair on the ensuite door. I make breakfast, egg on sourdough toast today and start preparing for travel today. We are off to Manning Gorge and hopefully the road will get better soon.

We say goodbye to Ellenbrae about 9:00am and shortly pass over Dawn Creek.

For the first hour and about 40km of driving the road remains rough like yesterday and the landscape continues to be low grassland bush.

Then we pass two young men juggling!

Weird as it sound’s, their car had overheated and they were passing the time juggling.

JUGGLERS!

For the next hour the road gets steadily better as we had heard about and hoped! We cross Ross Creek and before long come to the Kalumburu Road junction.

At the junction we stop for a toilet break and another Traxx van comes in. We have seen this van twice this morning. A chat starts and before long other travellers join in. The conversation jumps from this road to that, this stop to that and so on. one couple are heading up the Kalumbura Road to the Gibb River camp so Rob decides we should head up there too, it’s only 3km’s…

We head up and the Gibb River looks very inviting, but it’s busy.

We turn right off the road, hoping for a turn around but the track gets sandy and before you know it, we are bogged!

Had to happen sometime!

Rob put the Wee Beastie in low range and we got our trax out but we ended up deeper. Cal from Chinchilla and his wife Glenis who are camped nearby take pity on us and were very helpful and tow us out in no time. A big thank you and appreciation of the kindness of strangers.

Meanwhile I have spotted an Azure Kingfisher.

We head off again on the last leg to Manning Gorge. The road is wide and really good and the Savannah grassland continues with some signs of either fire management or fire.

We cross a couple more water ways that look like great spots to camp.

Then we see an escarpment on our left and we know we can’t be far.

We pull in at the roadhouse, register then continue on another 7km to the camp ground. When we drive in we see our van but bigger with its own wee beastie so it’s a jinx! A chat with owners Tim and Amanda follows and we organise for a photo before together before we leave.

After setting down we walk down to the creek for a dip. It’s beautiful with a sandy bottom and has to be swim across tomorrow with our gear in a drum at the start and finish of the gorge walk.

On the way back we see some cute finches, I have the dirtiest feet and we have a big boab right behind us.!

Tuesday 6 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 34

Manning Gorge Walk

So we set off just after 7:30 for this hike as it gets so hot in the middle of day and the UV is extreme too. We still get a hint of winter though as the heat falls out of the day around 5pm and the nights are lovely and cool.

As I mentioned the hike starts with a swim across the creek with your boots and gear in a drum. I didn’t get pictures as we started as we were offered to share a drum with two others and I didn’t want to hold them up to much.

The hike is 5.4km return, grade 4 with an elevation of 100m. The track is rocky and there are white dots and arrows to follow.

We see a few little lizards like this guy but otherwise no creatures. After getting the Azure Kingfisher yesterday my next creature of interest is the Frilled Neck Lizard.

The track meander from rock hopping to trail and back again and the last section of the walk is a gorge, down then up and then a big rocky bit of down into Manning Gorge. The first pool is gorgeous but the falls are still around the corner and down two steep rock ledge sections.

It was worth the rock scramble. The Gorge and Falls are very pretty. There are quite a few people here, one APT tour group and some families too. The kids are jumping from the rock ledge surrounding the falls.

Rob’s in for a dip, then a walk around the falls while I take photo’s, then we swap and I swim before we enjoy a swim together.

The water is lovely, cool but not cold.

We reluctantly head back around 11:00am after a couple of hours enjoying the Gorge, enjoying the views of the escarpment on the way back and our swim back across Manning Creek after a hot walk.

Tomorrow we head for Imintji campground and from there Bell Gorge.

Stay safe and take Carrie off each other.

Love to all, Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – The Gibb River Road Kununurra to El Questro

August 4, 2024 Maryann McDougall 4 Comments

Locations: Kununurra, Emma Gorge, El Questro

Region: Kimberley WA

Dates: 1 August 2024 – 3 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34

Kununurra to El Questro 120km’

Total trip kilometer’s 4665

Thursday 1 August 2024

Zoe’s 3rd birthday! Happy Birthday Darling girl!

After checking every bolt and screw and taping cupboards and fridge in preparation for the gravel road to El Questro and one final chat with Kay and Cliff a lovely couple from Cowra whom we met at Mataranka and then again at Kununurra, we set off.

We follow the same road to Wyndham and 55km’s along we turn left towards Mt Barnett and onto the Gibb River Road. We stop and take the obligatory pics and we’re off again. Emma Gorge is our first stop today for a hike and a swim, a further 26 km’s.

We cross lots of floodways and have escarpments either side. We then come to the first wet crossing at King River!

Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge is beautiful and the drive in is not too bad. We check in at reception to obtain our park pass as it’s part of El Questro and then head out to the Gorge. It’s a 3.2km return hike, moderate level 4 with some rock scrambles.

Despite the benevolent name I didn’t enjoy the hike. It was a rock scramble most of the way which is not my favourite thing.

I didn’t take poles and got about 9/10’s of the way before I gave up. It got the better of me!

Maybe I am a bit tired after the last few busy days but I decided the best thing for me was to sit in a shady spot by a burbling pool and enjoy the space rather than pushing any further.

It’s hard to write this as I don’t give up easily but these days I’m better at listening to my gut which is why I chose to stop. I encouraged Rob to continue on and he did and had a lovely swim. These are his pictures of Emma Gorge.

I still had to trek all the way out again and thankful did so with no harm. While I was sitting I saw three people fall, a teenager and two women. In my opinion it should not be listed as a moderate hike and I said so on All Trails!

We continue on to El Questro. We turn off the bitumen for our first section of gravel road this section of the trip and stop to let the tyres down.

We have 16km’s of gravel and it’s not too bad! Two wet crossing too.

We arrive and check in. We are here for three nights and will have to move sites after the first night. It’s a big space and I was hoping this would be sorted from when we booked but oh well! The first nights site is not great, sloping both ways but our neighbours are a nice couple. We make camp, then go for a walk and find happy hour at the Swing Bar!

Friday 2 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 33

We both opt for a slow day today. So after a sleep in, a nice breakfast we move the van. A much nicer spot, flat with more room. After resetting we spend the morning going for a walk and then I catchup the blog and Rob does some forward planning, we have lunch, a nap, and then we have another walks around the park, shower, then head to happy hour and an early dinner at the Steakhouse. a lovely relaxing day

Saturday 3 August 2024

Temperature: 16 – 34 degrees

Zebedee Springs

Today we are up early, about 5:30am and are out before 7:00am.

Off to Zebedee springs for a dip. Zebedee is about half way back down the track to the Highway and is a short hike, 600m return from the Carpark. Grade 2

It’s a beautiful spring, tropical, warm and the water is clear. There are palm trees in the water and rocks and after about 20mins we discover leeches. A lady we are chatting to nearby suddenly grabs her foot and pulls off a small leach about 3cm.

She is horrified and leaves.

I’m not as phased and remain in the spring as while longer and thankfully neither Rob nor I have the pleasure of meeting any leeches!

One the way back to El Questro I take a video of the Pentecost’s River crossing! Hope it loads for you.

After yesterday’s experience at Emma Gorge, I’m reluctant to challenge Amalia Gorge, a grade 5 walk so Rob goes alone and I stay behind and do some cooking. I bake a loaf of bread and some raspberry friands and start a lentil salad for dinner.

Amalia Gorge

Rob enjoys his hike to Amalia Gorge, 3.5km, moderate, grade 5 walk which includes two pools, lots of rock scrambling and includes a chain rock climb! He finds a fellow traveler to take some pictures of his swim.

We relax through the heat of the day after Rob returns then shower and head to happy hour at 3:30. Yes they start early here!

We cook dinner while watching the Swans v Port Adelaide game. What a shocker! 112 pt loss for the Swans! I’m disappointed to say the least!

The sunset is nice though.

We are off to Ellenbrae Station tomorrow., Sunday 4 August.

Hopefully the Gibb River road will be kind to us.

Stay Safe and take care. Of each other

Love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Kununurra – Mitchell Falls Coastal and The Bungle Bungles Tours

August 2, 2024 Maryann McDougall 1 Comment

Location: Kununurra, Mitchell Falls , Wyndham, Lake Argyll, The Bungle Bungles

Region: Kimberley NT

Dates: 29 July – 31 August 2024

Temperatures: 16 – 34

Monday 29 July 2024

After such a hectic day yesterday with our Whistle stop tour of Wyndham, Monday starts a wee bit slower. Rob starts working on the van step which has sheared off, so he’s off to the hardware for brackets and bolts to try and repair while I catch up on some blog posts. It’s lovely and warm and there is a breeze from Lake Kununurra and with a cup of tea in hand what more could you ask for.

In the afternoon we go and visit Hoocheys so that Rob can do a rum tasting. It’s the oldest “legal” distillery in WA. He deserves a fun afternoon after all his hard work on the step this morning, which is now back in working order. What a handy man he is.

After I drive us back from the distillery, we take a nice relaxing walk around the park, visiting the avery to see the Gouldian Finches: such colourful little birds, and the parks Boab tree before heading to the waterfront. We finish the day with a relaxing meal and some TV

Tuesday 30 July 2024

Mitchell Falls Coastal Adventure

Temperatures: 18 – 32

We spend the morning with me cleaning the inside of the van and washing and Rob checking every screw in the van in preparation for The Gibb, before we get ready for the first of our Tours.

We are picked up and driven to the airport at 11:15am and after being weighed and checked in our pilot James collects us and takes us to the plane. There is just us two and a third, a lady named Cathy from NZ and we are flying in a four seat Cessna 210N.

The route takes us across Kununurra and its farmlands then straight across country to Ngamoowalem Conservation park towards Durack and then Drysdale River National Park.

We see the road to Kalamburu off The Gibb River road and some local seasonal fire management before we arrive at Mitchell falls which we circle in a figure 8 several times before landing on nearby Mitchell plateau. The falls are a sight to behold.

Apparently you can swim in the upper pool of the falls but not the bottom due to salties.

We have a 30 minute break while the pilot refuels and some light refreshments; mango cake and juice while we wait. Cathy our NZ guest has been air sick all the way out unfortunately so she’s not feeling great.

We take off again on the next leg, up and around the Kimberley coastline. The scenery is amazing and this is the absolute best way to see the vast area of the Kimberley.

We pass over the Lawley River National Park and see all the creeks shooting off. It reminds me of a brain!

Next we fly over North Kimberley Marine Park and along the coast and to the mouth of the Drysdale River.

As we start to turn South East towards Kununurra we pass over King George Falls, not really flowing at this time of year but still spectacular with the River leading up into the gorge to the falls! So beautiful and there is a yacht parked just under the falls. Wow!

Next we fly along the coastline towards Berkeley River lodge, the most Northern remote resort, across an area known as Oombulgurri. The pilot says we may see sharks, rays, turtles or crocs and he is flying low but I can’t pick anything out. The coastline is stunning however and I take way too many pictures.

From here we fly across Lacrosse Island and then into the Cambridge Gulf passing over Adolphus Island and Wyndham before heading back to Kununurra.

We swoop back into Kununurra crossing the Ord one more time. Poor Cathy has unfortunately been sick the whole way so I quickly exchange details with her so I can send her some of my photos.

Rob and I had a wonderful time. A little bumpy over the thermals at times but wow her what a thrilling afternoon.

Wednesday 31 July 2024

Bungle Bungle Tour

Big day today. We are out for day being collected at 8:15 for our flight South over lake Argyle and to the Bungle Bungles where we will hop on a bus tour for the day including a hike into the Bungles!

We are in a bigger plane; a Cessna Caravan this time, with 13 guests in total and our pilot is Dan. Rob and I get the bench seat right at the back so have lots of leg room.

Our flight path today takes the opposite of yesterday and we soon fly over Kimberleyland Caravan park where we are staying; see if you can find the wee beastie in the photo, before following the Ord or Lake Kununurra as it’s known at this stage because it is dammed at both ends and holds a continuous level of water; to one centimeter. We then cross over farmland, including of all things Cotton!

Kununurra means black soil by the way. And there is so much water out here it’s mind boggling.

We are in a bigger plane and we soon jump over a range and see the amazing Lake Argyle stretching before us. 67km long one way and 10km across the other, it holds 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour, around 10,763 gigalitres and due to this is classified as an inland sea with the same maritime regulations!

We soon cross over the amazing wave like formations of the Osborne Ranges. An absolute marvel and I see a circular area at the end and I wonder if maybe they are due to a long ago meteor hitting the earth?

Our pilot informs us that we have cross into Purnululu National Park (pronounced Burnululu)and that the Bungle Bungles are just ahead and soon enough there they are. A breathtaking sight in their unusualness.

Interestingly they were only discovered in 1982 by two film makers making a documentary about outback WA. They heard word of some unusual rocks to be seen so hired chopper pilots to take them there. These formations are unusual as they are sandstone underneath and the crusted striating colours come from rust and Cyanobacteria which creates the green in the wet and black in the dry. The crust is very thin and takes years to develop so they are quite delicate and they are white underneath.

In the late 80’s the Bungle Bungles along with Shark Bay in WA were listed under UNESCO. Interesting that the Bungle Bungles and the Stromatolites found in Shark Bay are both formed from Cyanobacteria.

After circling around the Bungle Bungles for a bit we land, then having morning tea; butter cakes, tea and coffee, before jumping on our bus. Our tour guides Mardi and Nigel will look after us today.

The bus ride is about 25 minutes and we stop for photo opportunities a couple of time before arriving at The Domes where we will do a walk to Cathedral Gorge.

We set off, stopping periodically as Mardi talks about the landscape.

As we walk I smell a burnt caramel smell and soon after Mardi mentions it and explains it’s the sticky sap from the spinifex grass growing everywhere. The sap has medicinal properties and can be used to close wounds and provides antibacterial properties that promote healing.

As we head into Cathedral Gorge, Mardi pulls us off onto a ledge and in a hushed voice quietly tells us this is a place of initiation and then points up and we see some rock art.

It about 10degrees cooler in the cathedral and you can see why it’s so named with the cavernous ceiling arching above. The pool is sacred and must not be stepped in or drank from according to cultural lore from the Djaru and Gija tribes that use these lands.

Rob and I walk around the pool to the rocks at the back for our lunch break.

It’s very peaceful and a good place for quiet reflection as we enjoy our meal.

After lunch we make our way out of the cool of the cathedral and back into the Gorge, heading back the way we came. On the bus we head back to Bellburn airstrip to drop four people off for helicopter flights before we make our way to Savannah lodge for afternoon tea of fruit and cake.

Once back at Bellburn we’re herded back onto the plane and are soon in the air. Our return flight takes us over the Northern part of the Bungles and Pickaninny Gorge. A grade 6 multi day hike.

We then fly over the Osborne ranges again and then the now defunct Argyle Diamond mine.

As we head into Kununurra the pilot swoops around to land over the Ord River and I take the photo below and then as I look down I swear I see a big crocodile in the water!!!

All in all it’s been a fascinating few days and a privilege to see so much of this unique part of the world.

A big thank you to my darling Rob whose idea it was that we take these tours.

Tomorrow we leave Kununurra and head to Mt Barnett via the Gibb River Road. our off road adventure begins.

Take care, stay safe and love to all.

Maryann and Rob xx

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, Western Australia

Aussie Lap – Katherine NT to Kununurra & Wyndham WA

August 1, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Victoria River, Saddle Camp, Timber Creek, Kununurra, Wyndham

Regions: Katherine NT,

Dates: Saturday 27 July – Sunday 28 July 2024

Temperatures: 18 – 34 degrees, sunny, overcast, scattered showers.

Saturday 27 July 2024

Katherine to Saddle Rest Stop 339 km’s (100 East of Kununurra).

Total Trip kilometre’s: 4144

Temp 19 – 31 overcast, some showers

We set off about 9am with a longish day driving. Not far out of Katherine on the Victoria Highway west we pass several convoys of army vehicles.

The landscape is dry with sparse trees and termite mounds. I look up and see a Bustard right on the side of the road, on the left! Darn missed getting a picture. He was a big one too. Not long after on the other side of the road I see two more. Missed again!

As we approach Judbarra NP it starts to drizzle and we see puddles in the roadside. The air becomes sweetly scented by the native grassland, trees and a hint of ozone. Escarpments rise majestically as we come into Victoria River and the views are breathtaking beautiful. The teasing rain bringing the outback colours of ochre, russet, yellow and green to life and we start to see lots of Boab trees

We cross the Victoria River Bridge and stop at the Roadhouse to admire the ranges around us.

We continue on as we have for another 100kms or so to our camp for the night, Saddle Rest stop

We stop again just past Victoria River as the landscape is one escarpment after another and the views are non stop. The dry land has returned to grassland with many trees small and tall and some of the Boab trees are double, some triple with the girth of a small silo and the Victoria River is beside us on the right.

The rest stop when we arrive is nearly full but we fortunately find a spot and our backdrop is yet another towering escarpment.

Rob gets out the Starlink to watch the Lions v Gold Coast in the second Q Clash for the season and I bake a loaf of bread and some sourdough crackers while we watch the game. A win for the Lions 🦁 yay! Eighth in a row I think?

Dinner is a pasta and salad as I use up the last of our fresh vegetables before the border crossing tomorrow.

Sunday 28 July 2024

Saddle to Kununurra 110 km’s

Total trip km’s: 4154

Temperature: 16 – 28

A hot night, eventually cooling with a breeze around 4:30am and we wake up to a cool drizzle gray morning. Not what I expected for up here.

We have a leisurely start with coffee, bacon and eggs before doing a final check on all things fruit and vegetables and I find a packet of slightly dried “fresh” basil hiding in the fridge. Darn I could have used that last night in the pasta sauce! Oh well.

We set off and the escarpment we were parked under continues for some way and morning showers again bring all the colours to life.

We cross into WA and the border quarantine check is quick and easy.

The only thing I didn’t think about was some frozen Thyme in the freezer which is a no no due to the woody stem. The officer appreciates my efforts though so no fine thankfully and then she offers us an extra 1.5hours today due to the time change!

Our first views on Kununurra are a Croc Wise sign and then a wetland as we come into town

We are staying in Kununurra for four nights as Rob has organise two tours, one to Mitchell Falls and a second to the Bungle Bungles. We check in, then do groceries and return and set up the van and as it’s still not quite midday decide to drive to Wyndham, another 200km’s there and back for the afternoon.

Wyndham is a port town in the gulf and the juncture of five rivers and we are told well worth a visit.

Molly Springs

22km from Kununurra towards Wyndham and down a rough 3km track is a lovely spot to swim with a little waterfall. Rob swims then gets out to take photos and moments after I get out of the water a fellow in the water start screaming “snake in the water”! Rob manages to get a photo when it clears the water at the tree just behind me in the third photo below and it looks like a brown!

Oh the fun of the outback!

We continue on and our next stop is The Grotto, a waterhole surrounded by 80m vertical cliffs. It has 140 stone and concrete steps you can take down to view it and of course we do. Imagining all the while what it would look like with waterfalls around all sides during the wet.

The Grotto

Back in the car, Rob and I both find an odd similarity in the landscape with Scotland! The road undulates through soaring hills that are sparse and dry, similar to some of the valleys we passed through in Scotland on the West 500 in 2019. The difference is the lack of wet green that you see in Scotland but it’s still eerily familar?

Maggie’s Valley

Approaching Wyndham we come around a bend and into a stunning Valley known as Maggie’s Valley. I can see why she loved it here so much.

The Big Croc

We arrive Wyndham and find the big croc! What a beauty!

The Big Boab

This tree is over 2000 years old!

Wyndham Port

Our next stop is Wyndham Port. Gazetted in 1886 the port serviced the cattle industry and gold prospectors and at one point was home to the biggest abattoir in the Southern Hemisphere at the time.

Five Rivers Lookout

Our next and last stop on our whistle stop tour of Wyndham today is the Five Rivers Lookout and a must see if you visit the area. The lookout is high with nearly 360 degree views of the surrounding area and it’s stunning with views over the Ord, Durack, Forrest, King and Pentecost Rivers.

A great place for sunset but very overcast today.

Wow we have had a busy weekend and we are both delighted by what we’ve seen so far of the Kimberley and we are both looking forward to our tours this week very much.

We hope you all had a good weekend too. Stay safe and take care of each other.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Mataranka to Katherine NT

July 30, 2024 Maryann McDougall 4 Comments

Locations: Mataranka and Katherine NT

Region: Katherine NT

Dates: Tuesday 23 July – Friday 26 July 2024

Temperatures: 18 – 33 degrees

Tuesday 23 July 2024

Mataranka to Katherine 100km’s

Total trip kilometres 3384

We are due in Katherine by 2pm, booked in at the Discovery Park so we decide to visit Mataranka homestead for a morning swim before setting off.

At Mataranka homestead there is a replica of the old homestead used in the 1982 film, We Of The Never Never based on the life and book by Jeannie Gunn who lived in the region in the early 1900’s which we visit.

We then enjoy our walk through the trees and our swim and an early lunch of Barra burgers before saying goodbye to Mataranka and traveling on to Katherine.

The weather has continued to warm as we’ve moved North and by the time we reach Katherine the day is very warm. We set up our camp and take a dip in the very new resort pool. It’s very cold compared to the springs this morning.

Wednesday 24 July 2024

Katherine NT

Temperature: 18 – 32, hot, sunny

Today we visit the Katherine Springs. These springs are separated at each end of the current by barriers but there are still signs regarding fresh water crocodiles. The water is warm but not as hot as the 34 degree springs at Mataranka. Our dip is very refreshing and there is a small fall at one end that Rob playfully takes a swim over. He’s a big kid at heart. ❤️

On the way back to the park we shop for a few groceries and I spend the afternoon starting to sort food for the NT/WA quarantine border crossing.

I pickle some of Hazel’s lovely daikon radish and carrot and start a new sourdough loaf while catching up on washing.

Thursday 25 July 2024

Temperature: 24 – 33, hot humid

Butterfly Gorge Hike

Rob has found a nice hike, about 12km out to the 3rd Gorge on the Katherine River and you can swim so we set off early around 8:30am.

The hike is out and back in the Nitmiluk National Park which is about 20km from our park and part of the Baruwei Loop/Gurumal Trail a moderate rated trail.

The first 4 kilometres of the track essentially follow a fire trail from the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre. The track has a total elevation of 200m is very rocky, even slippery with loose shale at times, there are few patches of shade and we go up and down several times as we walk along the escarpment.

As we approach the next section of the trail we see a sign explaining where we are and from here the track gets very narrow and rocky, goes up again before going down into the gorge proper and as we head down we start to see lots of butterflies.

The last section is a rocky scramble leading to a very narrow shelf above the river from which you can swim. When we arrive there are 3 others already there.

We remove our boots and I scramble to put my feet in and Rob gets ready for a dip.

The views down the Gorge are amazing, we see people kayaking and I spot a turtle. It’s an amazingly beautiful spot. Well worth the hard walk to get here.

We find out the next day on our dinner cruise that this part of the Gorge is the deepest at 35metres and gets deeper each wet season due to a large whirlpool that develops here, causing the rocks to swirl and gouge the bottom further. We also find out this is a popular area for fish and crocs due to the depth!

We spend about an hour before heading back. The day only gets hotter so it’s a tough walk back and we refill our water bottles several times at available rainwater tanks along the way! Thank you very much.

We deviate onto the Jadalep loop so that we can visit the Baruwei lookout extending the walk by about 2km to 14km.

It was a tough walk but worth it!

Friday 26 July 2024

Temperature: 18 – 33, hot, humid slightly overcast.

Edith Falls & Katherine Gorge Dinner Cruise

Today we are doing two side trips. The first is a hike and swim at Edith Falls. Still in Nitmiluk National Park but 80 kilometres North of Katherine.

We set off around 8.30am, drive 60km North then turn right at the sign for Edith Falls and drive another 20km’s to arrive around 9:30. The National Park has a car park, kiosk and toilet.

The walk is a 3.9km circuit and we decide to walk anticlockwise. The walk has an elevation of 100m and the first part takes us past the bottom waterhole with a waterfall.

So spectacular!

The track then curves around to the left and becomes a rocky switchback straight up, followed by a scrambled rocky track for about 2km’s. There are very obvious signs of recent fire and I wonder if it’s management fire or from the NT fire last year? It’s hot today and I quickly become parched amongst the dry and blackened landscape.

We detour to Bermang Lookout for our first view of the upper pool. From here the waterfall is directly beneath us.

Another 500 metres of rock scramble which only gets worse and I begin to wonder how they graded this a moderate track? Reward looms though, as after a final rock scramble down we arrive.

There is a deep pool to swim across and we find a path across rocks to the falls, then a swim past them and around a pile of rock in the middle with a slight current that takes you over some slippery rocks and back around to the main pool! WOW!

After a truly delightful swim we reluctantly dry off and put the boots back on for the walk back. Highly recommend you visit Edith Falls if you are in the NT. There is a camp so if you go to Darwin be sure to deviate that 20km’s off the highway. You won’t regret it.

On the way back on the outskirts of Katherine we see a flock of red tailed black cockatoo’s. Always a favourite.

Once back at the van we hop into some jobs, Rob maintenance on the water hose and starting to repair our step which has sheared away and I on food prep for the border crossing.

Katherine Gorge Dinner Cruise

After getting back to the van we both hop into some chores, Rob on van maintenance and I on food prep. I make a big batch of ratatouille, roast two sweet potato and some garlic and bake some sourdough crackers. It’s hot work so getting ready and showering for our dinner cruise tonight is welcome. We are both looking forward to the cruise very much.

The cruise is full, about 40 people I calculate and goes for about 3.5 hours and we have two boat changes ahead as we make our way up the gorge.

We set off and within minutes our pilot tells us to look towards the bank! There’s a freshie! A freshwater crocodile!

And on the opposite bank is a trap for a saltie! A saltwater crocodile… he assures as there aren’t any but there was last April. Apparently they investigate for six weeks after every wet season before opening (parts) of the Gorge for swimming.

The Katherine Gorge is stunning and everyone on board is mesmerized with its beauty and the witty commentary from our pilot.

And then there’s another freshie!

We continue up the Gorge to our first stop, where we need to disembark and walk up the Gorge to the next boat. As the dry season progresses the water level in the Gorge drops and the Gorge is separated into sections.

We disembark and there is rock art and towering cliffs to admire and a beautiful walk up the Gorge. The colours are amazing.

As we walk we chat to other guests, a young couple from France, an older couple from Germany and fellow Aussies too. We come to a wide plateau of rock that stretches out into the middle of the Gorge and it’s a great spot for photos.

Our second boat takes us up past Jedda’s rock and our pilot tells how the stone here is so old; 65 million year, that it contains no record of life, no fossils, nada.

The sun is starting to sink as we turn into the second Gorge and the colours and reflections are just so lovely.

We come to the third Gorge, our Butterfly Gorge from our walk the day before. You can see the ledge on the bottom right.

From here we turn back and retrace our steps. When we swaps boats the second time, it’s set for dinner and we enjoy a lovely three course dinner of local delicacies including crocodile, barramundi, eye fillet and mud cake for dessert with flavour’s of the top end, including Wattle Seed, Kakadu Plum and Lemon Myrtle.

Our dinner companions Matt and Amanda from Victoria are wonderful company and it is a very enjoyable evening.

Next stop Kununurra WA.

Take care, stay safe and look after one another.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Penola SA to Grampians VIC

April 16, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Locations: Penola, Casterton, Hamilton, Grampians, Halls Gap

Regions: SouthEast SA, Great South Coast and Central Highlands VIC.

Dates: Thursday 11 April – Tuesday 16 April 2024

Temperatures: 11-19 degrees

Thursday 11 April, 2024. 11-19 degrees Robe SA

A busy morning, up early to bake my latest Sourdough loaf in the camp kitchen before we set off today.

We leave Robe and head North East and our first destination is Penola a country town rich in grazing history and home to Australia’s only Saint Mary MacKillop.

We enjoy a stroll around town taking in the history of the Cameron family before visiting the Mary McKillop interpretive centre.

The centre outlined the history of Scottish families who came to Australia and then settled in and around the Penola area, the Cameron family and Mary’s association with them before starting her first school, St Joseph’s devoted to educating the most disadvantaged children and later her canonisation as a saint. Thought provoking and rich in detail. A lovely place to visit.

We leave Penola and within 30km’s cross over the Victorian Border. No quarantine here at all but I was extra careful using up all our fruit and veg so there would be no issue.

We enter the Southern end of the Grampians before long and the hills begin rolling with pasture and cattle again before we pass on through Casterton and then on to Wannon Scenic Reserve, our stop for the night. About 212 kms today

Our camp is a lovely quiet spot with the falls a 5-10min walk away. It’s chilly and there’s a fire pit so after checking the safety signs, Rob sets a fire to start and we enjoy our dinner of Chicken and pancetta stew with rice sitting by a warm fire.

Friday 12 April 2024, Southern Grampians, 7-18 degrees

We head off mid morning into Hamilton to shop for groceries, stow them and then have a walk around the town. It’s a bustling place with a busy Main Street and lots of shops including Coles, Woollies and Aldi. We have plenty of time today as we are only travelling 80km, 20km of which we have already done.

As we walk we see a sign for walk in flu jabs at a pharmacy so after enquiring and booking we have a couple of hours up our sleeve. Rob decides to get a haircut then we visit the local gallery and the botanical gardens.

The gallery exhibition – Emerging from Darkness: Faith, Emotion and the Body of the Baroque brings together National and International works from the 17th century showcasing three female artists alongside Rubens, Boulogne and Manfredi to name a few. A stunning exhibition, well worth the visit.

Next we walk to and around the botanical gardens before heading back to the chemist for our jab.

The drive out of Hamilton takes us further into the Grampians and the peaks begin to line up in front of us.

Tonight’s camp is just as nice at Wannon Crossing with lovely mountain views in the late afternoon sunlight. Another camp fire tonight too.

Saturday 13 April, Mafeking 7-18 degrees, cool cloudy then sunny.

Hiked Mt Sturgeon, 4.7 km with 300 elevation. A great workout with spectacular 360 degree views of the Grampians National Park. The trail began from Mt Victoria Valley Road with a gradual ascent to the summit and back again, starting with a sandy track, then natural rock stairway gradually becoming steeper towards the top. Great hike, stunning views with a wallaby on the way down!

After a good hike you need a good meal so I prepped Osso Bucco for a slow cook over the campfire. Accompanied by Rossi & Pissi. (Rice and Peas) risotto.

Sunday 14 April, 2024, Temp 7-19, Lovely sunny day.

Made sourdough crumpets and started a sourdough loaf then cleaned the van while Rob did some maintenance on the van, checking tyres etc.

About 1pm set off for Halls Gap about 43km’s driving through the Grampians.

Went for a walk around town, visited the brewery then caught up with Nick and Dee, fellow Qld travellers for drinks in the late afternoon.

Monday 15 April 2024, 6-18 degrees foggy then sunny

Today we got the bikes out (love my new bike!) and head out on the bike trail to Lake Bellfield. Great ride and then walk over the dam wall.

Tuesday 16 April 2024, 6-19 degrees cloudy to start, then sunny, then cloudy.

Today we are hiking the pinnacles and Rob has already done a run and hike up from the caravan park to one of the ridge lines below the pinnacles.

By 9:00am the sun is out and the day looks set to be a beauty and we stop to admire the valley.

We wanted to do the Grand Canyon walk but it is closed at the stair end due to structural issues. Nevertheless we hike about 300m up the canyon for a closer look.

The walk is picturesque and the rock formations never cease to amaze.

We turn on to the pinnacles walk and it is immediately up with lots of stone steps.

In the distance atop a hill I spy a lone gum seemingly sprouting from rock and it reminds me of the Wanaka tree in N Z which springs from the water.

The climb meanders past Echo Cave and Rob goes in for a look. As the morning progresses we see more and more people. Taking the time to say hello means we meet people from all over Aus but also, France and Italy. Towards the top we go through another canyon and the trail gets narrow and steep.

Finally after a bit of a rock scramble at the top we arrive at the pinnacle.

The views are glorious, down to Halls Gap and back to Lake Bellfield that we visited yesterday.

The return walk is lively and again we pass lots of walkers, families, young and older walkers like us.

Tonight we are off to dinner to celebrate Rob’s birthday with fellow travellers and Qld’rs Dee and Nick who we keep running into. Such lovely people.

Love to all, stay safe, be kind and most importantly in these turbulent times love one another and be humble…

PS. Will catch up March travels soon xoxo

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

April 12, 2024 Maryann McDougall 1 Comment

Locations: Orroroo, Jamestown, Peterborough, Clare

Regions: Adelaide City & Adelaide Hills; Barossa

Dates: Sunday 17 March – Thursday 21 March 2024

Temperatures: 9 – 32 Degrees

Sunday 17 March 2024, 15 – 32 degrees

Showers overnight and our first rain in months so it is a beautiful dawn at Walloway and the hills roll out all around us.

After breaking camp at RM Williams Way we head into Orroroo for a look.

We find our way to the Giant Red gum tree, said to be over 500 years old, nearly 11 metres circumference and over 60 metres high. What a beauty and home to 100’s of budgerigars.

Next we walk around Orroroo, exploring the charming Main Street then further afield to see some of the heritage trail buildings.

Next we head to Peterborough our camp for the night at the Showgrounds.

Once setup we walk into town. In the 20th century, this town was once the crossroads geographically and a rich hub for locomotives, Peterborough; originally Petersburg after the original land owner, now heroes “steam town” with a rich historical collection of all things steam train.

Monday 18 March, 15 – 31degrees sunny

Heading for the Clare Valley today we pass through Jamestown, the birthplace of RM Williams. Reginald Murray, one of Australia’s most iconic figures has a much bigger presence in the stockman’s hall of fame at Longreach I believe but it’s nice to see his hometown honouring their local lad. Interesting to read about his involvement in the Nepabunna settlement which we passed to and from Arkaroola just days before.

Continuing on we arrive in Clare and park in long bay parking. We have one more night off grid tonight and our camp is out at Blyth (10km South) before coming back into Clare to the caravan park tomorrow.

We take a walk around Clare, exploring part of the Riesling trail on foot and finding a nod to Monica McInerney (favourite author of “Hello from the Gillespie”) in the form of artwork along the way. of Irish descent, Monica grew up in Clare and her childhood home is just across the road from the artwork. How amazing to stumble across and one of the reasons I love travelling- you just never know what you will find.

Returning to the van we see a seat in front of a big gum tree and it turns out the tree was a resting spot for the Camel Funeral with the remains of Burke and Wills on the way from Innamincka to Melbourne in 1862 as well as early explorers from as early as 1839!

Onward to Blyth and a Golden Sunset.

Tuesday, 19 March 2024, 15-25 degrees and much cooler.

After starting a sourdough loaf and setting the van ready to move, we take a walk around Blyth. Quiet and full of beautiful old buildings and houses. It makes me think of the 1945 play, Blythe Spirit by Noel Coward.

We head into Clare, set down at the park and the rest of the day is taken up with washing and cleaning the van.

Wednesday, 20 March 2024, 9-20 degrees with our first chilly morning.

Morning hike – the Cascades Walk.

Short; 1.4km return, lovely walk with views of the gully below and out to Vincent Gulf through stands of Red Stringy Bark and Blue Gum Eucalyptus trees along the ridge line.

Referred to as islands from a conservation perspective, as the plains below were all but cleared of the same trees when the area was settled in the 1800’s.

After our hike in the hills we drive further down the valley to Seven Hills and the Skillogalee winery set in an historic cottage with views of vineyards and rolling hills. We enjoy a tasting while soaking up the Autumn sunshine. Our favourite, the sparkling Riesling.

On the way back we stop at Horrocks cottage, circa 1839 at Penwortham.

Thursday 21 March 2024, 9 – 26 degrees and sunny

We were planning to cycle some of the Riesling trail today but my bike is misbehaving with sticky brakes resulting in a spills and a skinned knee, so I decide to walk into town instead while Rob does a ride. Afterwards we head up to to do a ridgeline walk.

Great views but very windy!

After lunch we head out to on our favourite wineries – Taylor’s. We enjoy a fun filled tasting with lots of local stories from our host Robert!

A lovely few days in Clare for sure! Tomorrow we head to the Barossa Valley for the weekend.

Love to all, be kind, love one another and stay safe.

Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

February 22, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Cactus Bay, Ceduna, Smoky Bay, Point Brown, Port Kenny, Venus Bay.

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Thursday 22 February – Sunday 25 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 -31 Degrees

Thursday 22 February, 25 – 36 Degrees

So we left Cactus Bay around 10am. I decided I needed to wash my hair as it’s started to go yellow! Apparently grey hair picks up all sorts from the atmosphere, water and the sun, and as I only wash my hair every 7-10 days (I’ve always done this) and it’s getting longer, all of these elements seem to be affecting my hair. I have this toning shampoo which I use irregularly so obviously I need to use it more often.

I head for the cold shower and wash it. Bearing in mind this shower is bore water, very salty and in order to preserve water I’m not conditioning but at least it feels clean and seems to be less yellow.

It’s a female thing, what can I say!

As we are leaving camp, Chris, who holds the maintenance lease pops by and we get to say goodbye to him and the dogs, Kelly who rides on the roof and Catup who enjoyed some steak fat the other evening.

Rob also gets a new blue Cactus T Shirt.

On the way back to Penong I catch the awesome sand dunes in the morning light and we pass the pink lake (still not very pink) but very salty.

We continue back to Penong, on the very rough dirt road, then turn right on the Eyre highway towards Ceduna. We pass through border quarantine, no problem then visit a dump point and refuel. We head to the Foodland and pick up a few supplies, fresh fruit, yogurt, crackers and soda water, then hit the road. Next stop Smoky Bay.

Smoky Bay is small with lots of fresh oysters outlets and a caravan park right on the foreshore, one for another time perhaps. Rob and I are off grid and hoping to do 10 days in preparation for the Flinders Ranges. Day 7 today. We purchase some fresh oysters, 12 for $10 and head off. Our camp is at Browns Point about 8km out of town, then 20km down a very rough dirt road. Corrugates, ruts and rocks, worst road by far!

Very Rough! No kidding this is one of the roughest roads I’ve ever traveled and a true test for our Trax S3 off road Van. When we arrive, after much jolting, I’m very surprised to see that the only things that have moved in the van are the T towel and the bin! Amazing!

We set down then head out for a walk to explore the foreshore. It’s quite windy and there are loads of birds on the foreshore and up to and around the point.

I spy a stingray in the shallows and we watch them flit about.

So many birds… and with the tide out it seems a haven.

Back at the van we enjoy our Oysters then Chicken and Roast Beetroot Salad, then sundown.

Friday, 23 February, 12- 22, Sunny, windy

I have a dough to bake so that’s my first task today. It’s been in the fridge since Thursday evening on a bulk prove.

Rob has a nice hike planned so after baking and tidying the van we set off towards the point and some rock pools he’s read about.

The coastline is wild and beautiful and the tide has just turned and is coming in. We follow the coastline around and towards the point, eventually finding the rock pools.

On the way back Rob steps on a baby brown we think. I’m not sure who got the bigger fright!

That evening the wind ratchets up and we are rocked to sleep. About 10:30 I’m woken by noise and headlights. Just another traveller in a small van, in late but I can’t imagine driving that rough road in the dark! Next day they left early without saying hello.

Saturday 24 February, 18 – 37 degrees

We pack up and set off around 9:30, the road has not improved in the two days and we take it very slowly back to the highway, 25kms in 1:45hrs I reckon.

At Penong we turn East and travel on past Streaky Bay, next stop Murphy’s haystacks which we missed, when exploring this area last August.

Only 3 kms off the Flinders highway on the inland side. Known as Inselbergs (a hill that looks like a rocky island rising sharply from the sea), they are the result of erosion and harrowing (a technique used to cultivate the land) and are located on Murphy’s property. It’s a lovely walk and a great opportunity to stretch the legs.

We pass on to and then through Port Kenny and on to Venus Bay. On the way we see several emu’s including two crossing the road in front of us, two snakes, also on the road and a lizard.

At Venus we set up and find out there is a comedy night – Fairy Floss & Chaos with food trucks at Port Kenny so we organise a seat. We share the courtesy bus with Chris and Rea of 4WDIVE safaris (tube) and enjoy a fun night with hilarious standup comedians. Marc Ryan the beautiful bogan, El Jaguar, Joshua Warrior and Dom Robinson. Great night! Thank you Port Kenny Hotel.

We are home by 10pm and enjoy the bright new moon over the bay before turning in.

Sunday 25 February, 15 – 25 degrees

Sunday morning we decide to hike the South-head trail which runs along the foreshore of Venus bay. It a lovely hike, about 6km with stunning cliff and ocean views along with crumbling cliff edges and loads of bird life.

Afterwards we stop at the Cafe opposite the jetty to get beer and fish and chips for a late lunch! A great weekend at Venus Bay!

Tomorrow we continue South towards Coffin Bay and Port Lincoln.

Love to all, stay safe and be kind. x

Rob’s addition – as the Dalai Lama says

“Be kind whenever possible, it is always possible.”

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – SA, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight

February 19, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Nullarbor, Cliffs of Bight, Penong, Point Sinclair

Regions: Alinytjara-Wilurara

Dates: Sunday 18 – Thursday 22 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 31 degrees, fog and sun

Monday 19 February, 15 – 29 degrees.

The night was cool and Rob and I are grappling with the time change. Yesterday the time had kept switching back and forth; four times, after we left Eucla. Starting at 11:50am WA time which changed to 2:20pm SA time then back again a short time later and then switching back and forth several times.

We arrived at the Bunda Cliff Camp 2 at 3:00pm WA or was it 5:30pm SA time? We decided to stick with WA time for the rest of the day and then SA time from tomorrow.

The night skies are amazing but I can’t get good photos with the iPhone… need to work on this!

Monday morning we wake at 3:30am WA time, 6:00am SA time just as the sky lightens. There has been a very heavy dew overnight and it’s a cool 15 degrees.

The sunrise is spectacularly beautiful.

We anticipate a quiet day with a long walk but around 9:30 a fog rolls in… and continues until about 4:30pm and then starts to lift a little. We set up the Starlink and Rob relaxes with a movie – Oppenheimer and I catch up the blog and make some date scones. Yum!

We head out for a long walk about 4:30pm but the mist continues, rolling in as it gets later in the day.

Tuesday 20 Feb, 18-31 degrees

Tuesday dawned, still misty on the cliffs so we decided to cut our time here and move on. This is one of the main benefits of free camping – flexibility.

A couple we met from Mandurah, WA the previous day on the cliffs (sorry can’t recall their names!) recommended Cactus Bay, 270kms East and 20km South of Penong which is about 60km West of Ceduna on the WA/SA border so we thought we would check it out.

The journey is uneventful (always what we hope for 😀) with a few wide loads on trucks to navigate; 4.5metres wide the largest, and again the UHF is a must when travelling these roads, even if you aren’t towing.

Crossing the Nullarbor the only animal we see is a dingo, very casually crossing the road as we approach Nullarbor Roadhouse but I miss getting a photo. We stop for a coffee and I find a very similar hat to the one Rob lost last week as a gift for him.

Love you handsome. ❤️

A STATION AT BOOKABIE, EASTERN END OF NULLARBOR

We stop at Penong for milk and greens to finish a roast beetroot and radish salad I have planned to go with steak for dinner and then turn South towards the Coast.

I’ve heard good things about this camp so I’m excited. The road out is tough with lots of corrugated ruts and holes so it’s a slow drive which is ok as there is lots to see. The pink lake at Point Sinclair may be pink in full sun, so maybe tomorrow, lake Mac Donnell stretches out on the left and towering sand dunes are both left and right.

This is a private camp and first in, best served to find a camp spot. It looks reasonably full so we feel fortunate to find a nice, reasonably flat spot with a flushing toilet nearby! The facilities are amazing including many toilets, cold showers and a camp kitchen at a very reasonable day rate per person. Happy Days!

The surfers beach is a short walk over the dunes and the point is just up the road. After setup we take a walk to explore the area.

Wednesday 21 Feb, 17 – 27 degrees

I start a sourdough for a loaf around 8:00am and after the folds set it aside for the 1st proof and Rob and set out for a cross country hike and a swim at Point Le Hunt.

We start the walk on Cactus Beach and then head for the rough coastal path which follows the point around to the left.

We follow the edge as long as possible but eventually need to go up and along the coastline before we come to a huge expanse of granite.

We continue to follow the Granite around the coastline until we can go no further due to the contour then head up and across the point til we find 4WD tracks which we follow, backtracking a few times until we reach the other side and Point Le Hunte.

We head down and explore the jetty and read about the shipwreck and the jetty and a the tragic loss of a young boy to a shark attack in 1975 before we take a dip in the shark protected netted area.

After our swim we walk back to camp along the dirt road admiring the huge sand dunes on either side of the point. We relax and once my bread has finished its 1st proof, I prepare for the bulk overnight proving in the fridge. Dinner is grilled fish and bean ragu.

This is such a lovely spot to relax and a credit to the original owner with such foresight to infrastructure in a remote outback area. Thank you. 🙏🏻

Our day is complete with another beautiful sunset. Complete with two surfers enjoying their last waves of the day.

Thursday 22 Feb, 16 – 28 degrees

We depart today, next stop Smoky Bay.

Love to all, stay safe, take care and be kind. xx

Physio my way

Tag Archives: Hiking

Aussie Lap – Geraldton to Dongara & Wildflower Way WA

Aussie Lap – Karratha to Exmouth WA

Aussie Lap – Eighty Mile Beach to Karratha WA

Aussie Lap – Broome to Eighty Mile Beach

Aussie Lap – Derby to Horizontal Falls

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – Manning Gorge to Derby

Aussie Lap – Gibb River Road – El Questro Station to Manning Gorge Campground

Aussie Lap – The Gibb River Road Kununurra to El Questro

Aussie Lap – Kununurra – Mitchell Falls Coastal and The Bungle Bungles Tours

Aussie Lap – Katherine NT to Kununurra & Wyndham WA

Aussie Lap – Mataranka to Katherine NT

Aussie Lap – Penola SA to Grampians VIC

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

Aussie Lap – SA, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight

Life Moves!