Locations: Mingenew, Morawa, Perenjori, Latham, Wongan Hills, Bencubbin, Westonia.
Regions: Midwest and Wheatbelt WA.
Dates: 29 September- 3 October 2024
Temperatures: – 5-31, sunny, windy with scattered showers
Sunday 29 September 2024
Temperature: 5-23,crisp sunny morning
Starting km’s: 10166
We are up early but choose a slow start to the day, lingering over coffee and watching all the post AFL news before heading off.
We leave Mingenew and head East to Morawa, about 60 km’s and on the Wildflower Trail.
Once at Morawa we stop to find the Widimia wildflower trail which is beautiful with swathes of colour. A nice walk of about 3km’s to stretch the legs.
The drive today is lovely with lots of flowers bordering the road and fields of ripening wheat, barley and canola stretching as far as one can see. We pass Koolanooka and then pause at Bowgada Nature Reserve but there is no walk here.
BOWGADA NATURE RESERVE
We continue on to Perenjori where we camp for the night at the recreational centre in old tennis courts.
Monday 30 September 2024
Starting km’s 11,164
Temperature: 12 – 28 cool overnight, sunny
We are up and out for a walk early in Perenjori in search of coffee as we have run out of milk. We walk the Main Street admiring the pub and a community garden while we wait for the coffee shop to open at 8:30-am.
PERENJORI PUBCOMMUNITY GARDENS
We are away by 9:30am, heading for Wongan Hills, 180 km’s South East and see lots of flowers, pink, yellow, red, white and purple along the road this morning.
TODAYS DRIVEROADSIDE COLOUR
We stop at Latham to see the community garden but sadly it’s not seen much love for a while and the flies are next level.
LATHAM
Continuing on our next stop is at Buntine Rock for a walk and more wildflowers.
WILDFLOWERS BUNTINE ROCK
Rob heads to the top of the rock to catch the local views before we head off again.
BUNTINE ROCK VIEW FROM TOP
We then stop at Dalwallinu for a shower at the visitors centre. I forgot the $2 coin for the hot water so it was cold one! Very refreshing!
Later we pass the Big Bike sculpture at Ballidu before camping at the RV stop at Wongan Hills.
BALLIDU BIG BIKE
Tuesday 1 October 2024
Starting km’s 11953
Temperature: 11-32, windy, sunny
Today we are traveling from Wongan Hills to Mt Marshall camp which is just outside Bencubbin.
We head out through Cadeux, and Korda where we enter the “Wheatbelt Way”
Lots of fields, wheat, canola, barley and lupins surround us and then we pass through Cadoux, home of the 1979 earthquake.
WHEATBELT WAY
Storms are predicted for later in the day with strong winds. We arrive at Mt Marshall and camp, being mindful of not being under trees.
We experience a brief storm with wind and lightning but not a lot of rain at about 6pm but otherwise it’s a quiet night
Wednesday 2 October 2024
Bencubbin to Mukinbudin
Temperature: 11-21 rain 1-4mm
We start the day with a quick walk up Mt Marshall which has stunning 360 views of the surrounding countryside and we can see there is a bit of rain about today.
MT MARSHALL CAMP
Then we set of for a tour of the Bencubbin area before me move on.
We visit the historic Pergande Sheep yards and old homestead, then Waddouring Dam, and an old oldwell at North Trayning and Gnamma holes.
The over cast day moves to a rainy day increasing, so we head back to camp and hitch.
With rain and wind increasing we head towards Mukinbudin. Planning a bush camp just past there but decide instead to camp up in Mukinbudin town RV camp and settle in for a rainy afternoon.
I cook up a storm and we watch some tv.
Thursday 3 October 2024
Temperature: 8 – 18 shower or two, then clearing to sunshine
Starting km’s: 12108
We stop briefly at Pope’s Hill soldier settlement just outside Mukinbudin for some photos.
POPE’S HillRAIN OVER WHEATSTORMS AHEAD OR CLEARING
We arrive Westonia and make camp at the excellent caravan park, run by the council, lovely and clean, with a great camp kitchen. It is also right next door to the mining camp where my niece lives we are catching up for dinner later.
We take a walk out through the Main Street, checking out the faux historical shop fronts and old vehicles, as well as the museum and general store that are operating. It’s a charming Main Street!
WESTONIA
We continue on walking out of town out to the Edna May mine lookout.
EDNA MAY MINE LOOKOUT
We catch up with Lucy for dinner at the local pub, enjoying an excellent schnitzel!
We will spend a few more days at Westonia before heading further South.
Temperature: 12-26 windy, sunny and bit warmer today.
Starting km’s 11405, 25km drive
We aren’t going far today so after leaving the caravan park we to Geraldton foreshore and walked along the foreshore. Along the way we saw the old ship going out; apparently this rarely happens, and we also browsed the Sunday markets.
OLD SHIPGERALDTON FORESHORE
Once Coles opened at 11:00am we pick up a few groceries then drive to Bringo Camp, a favourite from last year, about 25 km out of Geraldton on the Mount Magnet Road. Set high on a hill it has lovely views back towards the coast and surrounding countryside.
We spend a relaxing afternoon in the van with Rob rewatching yesterday’s game and I cook up a storm making banana bread and then Nachos for dinner.
LOOKOUT SOUTHDAWN
Monday 23 September, 2024
Temperature: 10-24 Sunny, Patch of morning fog. Winds Southerly 25-35km’s
Starting km’s: 11435
Only a short drive today, 84km and we arrive Dongara about 10:30am. It’s sunny but a cool 21 degrees with a steady breeze. After we make camp we opt for a bike ride around town, about 8km’s on a trail we have done before. My foot is ok for the most part but then I wrench it a bit trying to stop and turn the bike.
DONGARA LOOKOUT
My ankle is swelling less now (in week 7) but the ligament and tendon damage is still apparent every day. Nevertheless I need exercise so I am are starting to exercise more each week.
On the cycle back, we stop at Denison seafoods but they are not open as it’s the Monarch’s birthday today in this area in WA.
LIVE CRAYS – DENISONS SEAFOOD
Tuesday 24 September, 2024
Temperature: 10-23, windy, cloudy
It’s very cool with the wind and it looks to be increasing today so we do some maintenance and cleaning, I cleaned the van windows and screens while Rob hand washed parts of the car. It’s a challenge: cleaning the car and van, as most caravan parks won’t let you use a water hose or pressure wash so it’s either find a car wash that will take vans and fit that in the travel schedule or otherwise do it by hand bits at at a time. The wind gets worse as the day progresses so we head inside after lunch.
Wednesday 25 September 2024
Temperature: 9-27 wind 22kmh Southerly gusting to 33, sunny.
This morning is nicer than it’s been so we opt to walk into town. It’s a 10km there and back so it will give my ankle a workout. We are heading for a cute coffee shop called poppies which is just over the river. Along the way we take some pics of the old jetty, the park and Rob picks some flowers for me. He’s such a gentleman!
I make it to the coffee shop and about 3/4 of the way back (9km) before opting for Rob to get the car…
Thursday 26 September 2024
Temperature: 16-24, warmer overnight, sunny, still breezy.
Rob goes for a run and I rest my foot, sore after the walk yesterday. Then we buy some seafood from Denison’s, Coffin Bay Oysters and Tiger Prawns for lunch and dinner and we also buy Mussells, Sardines and Schnapper for the freezer.
I make a pear, rocket and parmesan salad with walnuts to go with the Oysters and Prawns. Yum!
Other than catching up on some washing it’s another quiet, relaxing day.
Friday 26 September 2024
Temperature: 9-18 rain at Dongara
Starting km’s: 11555
Quite cool overnight and we wake to an overcast rainy day. Our first one in a while. We are up early and in and out of the van preparing to leave as we can between showers.
Today we are heading for Mingenew, 57 East of Dongara, as we leave the coast and head inland. It’s school holidays this week and next in WA and during the holidays we tend to head away from the coast as it gets busy and more expensive at the parks and we prefer the quiet of free camps. Our booking at Dongara was a lucky one considering the school holidays.
Mingenew is on the Wildflower Way and our plan is to head out as far as Westonia to catch up with my niece Lucy who works in a mine near there, before we continue further South skirting around Perth towards Bunbury and Margaret River.
WILDFLOWER WAYRAINY DAY
At Mingenew, we camp up at Enanty Historical Barn c. 1870 a rest stop on the outskirts of town. Mingenew is a small town with a small grocery, popular bakery and pub where we hope to watch the Grand Final tomorrow.
MINGENEW
Saturday 28 September 2024
Temperature: 5-20, rain overnight, very cool day.
It was very cool overnight and a crisp morning. We feel like we’ve been thrown back into Winter for the last few days, even putting our extra blanket back in the bed. Such a contrast from Karijini just a few weeks ago.
Today is all about the AFL Grand Final. With Rob and I both fortunate to have both our teams make the final; from very different positions mind you, we have had a fun week “bumping “ and ribbing each other, making bets and the big day is finally here.
To fill time we spend the morning going for a bit of a drive to a couple of lookouts and to see some wildflowers.
Dressed in team colours; Rob is wearing a Lions polo from their last premiership in 2021 and I’m resplendent in Swans colours of red and white, we can’t wait to go to the pub and for the game to start.
There are about 8 people ready to watch the game and a few others drift in and out of the beer garden as the afternoon progresses. Unfortunately I am the only Swans supporter for quite while. The Swans start well and the first quarter is a good contest. The second quarter is a whitewash though with the Brisbane Lions kicking 7 goals to Sydney’s 1 and Brisbane take the game from then on with dominance and purpose. I would have liked a better contest but it was a great to see the Lions win so decisively, especially after last years loss by 4 points.
We have had a fun filled afternoon watching the game and chatting with other travelers from Qld. I think Richard said it best – “the Swans look like a team that has already peaked and are on a downward trajectory while Brisbane are just hitting their peak”. Well said and well done to the Lions who worked so hard all year!
LUNCH HAPPY ROBMINGENEW PUBTHE CROWD
A quick note on lunch at the Commercial Hotel Mingenew. The Steak sandwich was probably the best I’ve ever eaten! The steak was so tender and the accompanying onion, beetroot, egg and salad were all just perfect. Yum!
Tomorrow we continue on the wildflower way towards Westonia.
Love to all. Stay safe and take care. Be kind to one another.
A couple of relatively quiet weeks coming up for us as we meander South with the next big thing in the calendar the AFL semi’s then Grand final. Both Rob and I are hoping our teams, Brisbane Lions and Sydney Swans prevail.
We leave Edgadee around 9:30am q and at 10:50am we pass the 36th parallel circle of latitude and leave the North West.
The country side is still salty scrub with few variations. Around 12:00pm we pass the Overland Roadhouse at the turn off to Shark Bay.
We visited Shark Bay and Monkey Mia in September 2023; a week later in the month than today. Passing the overland roadhouse today completes a full lap of Australia for Rob and I. We both feel a sense of completion for this journey even though we have done way more than a “lap” and still have approximately 12 weeks before we return to the East Coast of Queensland.
We are both enjoying this adventure and all the experiences we have encountered in this amazingly beautiful, rugged country of ours.
We turn right off the highway and head up Shark Bay Road, planning to free camp near Shell beach, a favourite beach from last year. After 80km we arrive and spend a couple of hours on Shell Beach, enjoying the uniquely extremely salty (hyper saline) shallow water in the sunshine and all the shells of course.
About 60km of shells in fact, sometimes up to 10m deep, formed from from the tiny Fragum cockle that’s able to survive the salty water created by the Faure Sill, an expanse of sea grass at the mouth of the Peninsula. It’s warm with a breeze and a lovely place to relax and reflect on our trip so far.
Rob decides to walk up to the feral animal control fence; erected in 2010 and stretching across the width of Peron Peninsula to protect indigenous animals from feral invaders such as cats, foxes, rabbits and goats. I read that the Bilby has been successfully reintroduced here since the fence was erected.
SHELL BEACH
We make camp at a WikiCamps Freecamp – Shelly Gravel Pit almost opposite Shell Beach. Its location is the most appealing element.
Tuesday 17 September 2024
Temperature: 16-31, Windy, cool overnight and sunny.
Starting km’s: 10600
Wind picked up overnight and it’s a very windy morning so we have a slow start as we decide how to spend the day.
We decide to drive into Denham about 80km’s further along the peninsula and visit the World Heritage Centre and hope that the wind drops later so we can swim somewhere.
Stopping at Whalebone point scenic lookout we see a large bird fishing so we walk down to take a closer look. It moves further down the beach but we think it might be a pacific gull or greater cormorant? You may make it out in the photo on the left.
Continuing on, we see a tiny Thorny devil on the road, no pic as he’s too small and too quick as we head into Denham, where we stroll along the foreshore before deciding to visit Shark Bay World Heritage Centre.
DENHAMSHARK BAYUNION SCULPTURE
The centre celebrates Shark Bay’s bio diversity and explores the area’s inclusion in Workd Heritage listing including Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool and the Fragum cockle and Faur Sill that make up Shell Beach. The centre also explores maritime history of the area including the landings of Dirk Hartog on the Island of same name nearby in 1616 and Dutch navigator Willem de Vlamingh’s landing at same location in 1697.
GUDRUN FIGUREHEAD c1900EXPLORER PLATES SILVERTHORNY DEVILSHARK BAY WORLD HERITAGE CENTRE
I read the story of Rose de Freycinet (nee Piñon) wife of Louis Freycinet who sailed with him on the Uranus 1818-1820 and wrote a journal as the second woman to circumnavigate the globe. Now a book; a Woman of Courage, it sounds like a fascinating read so I note for future reading.
Afterwards we head to Shark Bay hotel for lunch sharing a fishburger and squid with salad and while away an hour chatting to two fellow couples traveling from Qld.
On the return trip to to the van we stop off at Eagle bluff which has amazing views below of the bay below and we see sharks and turtles! An amazing afternoon even without a swim!
Approx 250 km’s driving today, leaving the Francois Peron Peninsula and heading South towards Geraldton
As we leave I spy a lizard in a bush and on the main road we see some emu’s.
LIZARDEMU
We see lots of wildflowers and the outback scrub slowly gives way to green agricultural fields along the way before we stop today at Galena Bridge Camp on the Murchison River.
We relax for a while before I make dinner, a vegetarian nourish bowl with spiced & roasted chickpeas and cauliflower. As the afternoon wans a breeze comes up and I start sneezing. This starts a full on allergy attack with itchy watering eyes and a sneezing, headache. I’ve suffered hayfever my whole life so I’m prepared with antihistamines on hand but it’s still unpleasant.
As evening sets, the moon rises and we have the a beautiful harvest moon on the horizon.
Thursday 19 September 2024
Temperature: 12-29 breezy, sunny
Starting kilometre’s: 10973
100 kilometres today into Geraldton.
Lots of flowers, kangaroo paw, wattle and swathes of yellow, pink white and purple line the highway.
No wonder my hayfever is in overdrive!
We stop at Elephant Hill lookout, and take pics of Elephant Hill. Can you see the elephant?
ELEPHANT HILL
We set down at Sunset Beach Caravan Park, here for three days to take care of a minor recall on the Isuzu and catch the next two semifinal games in the AFL; Sydney Swans (my team) v Port Adelaide on Friday and Brisbane Lions (Rob’s team) v Geelong Cats on Saturday.
Friday 20 September 2024
Temperature: 7-23 cool overnight, windy and sunny.
Our first job today is to drop the Isuzu in for a minor recall. Thankfully they give us a loan car for the morning so we head to the shops for coffee and a browse then back to the van. In the afternoon we head to WinterSun tavern. We are meeting my niece Jo for dinner and to watch the Swans game. It’s lovely to see Jo and catch up on all her news.
The game is a nail biter but the Sydney Swans prevail and I’m thrilled with the win! Woohoo!
Go the Swans!
Saturday 21 September 2024
Temperature: 7-22 windy with gusts.
The gusting wind in Geraldton makes doing anything outside tricky so we opt for a wildflower trail drive. Rob’s found a loop drive that will take us out to Mullawa and around and back via Nabawa where we have arranged to meet Jo and her partner Chris to watch the Brisbane Lions v Geelong Cats semifinal later today.
As we head for Mullawa we pass through Tenindewa and find the flower trail includes sculptures and local history.
Mullawa, about 100 km’s from Geraldton is a charming town in the wheatbelt with a lookout and an interesting church.
We then take the Northern loop which includes a sidetrack through Urawa Nature Reserve with lots of flowers and a camp spot by a river.
URAWA NATURE RESERVE
We just have enough time to drive to Nabawa through the countryside and arrive just before kick off. Jo and Chris are there to meet us and there are a few locals settled in for the game too.
The game starts with the Geelong Cats and Brisbane Lions evenly matched but in the second quarter Geelong gets ahead. It’s a tense third and fourth quarters as Brisbane battle to fight back the 29 point lead and the closing minutes of the game are tense as Geelong and Brisbane fight to win. Geelong kicks a goal and Brisbane have minutes to score!
They do and it’s a thrilling win for the Lions!
A great afternoon of footy with good company and friendly rivals in the crowd.
It’s been lovely to spend time with Jo too.
JO AND I
A lovely few days in Geraldton with great AFL results for both Rob and I with both our teams making the Grand Final next week.
Tomorrow we head to Dongara for a few days and then hit the Wildflower trail.
Locations: Exmouth Gulf, Bullara Station, Coral Bay WA
Regions: Gascoyne WA
Dates: 11 – 15 September 2024
Temperatures: 20 – 37, hot, sunny.
Wednesday 11 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 31 degrees, sunny
Starting kilometre’s: 9368
With all the washing clean and fresh yesterday we decided to forgo the mining mess for the hotel and shared a prawn stir fry and a parmi. Today we are headed to House Creek Camp, about 176 km’s on the Beasley (52) and then Nanutara-Munjina Road 212 in total.
BOOT TREE PARABURDOO
It’s vey hot with 33 degrees at 11:30 and 34 by 12:00pm. We make camp at House Creek in shade and set up to watch the US campaign debate Trump v Harris. Entertainment at its best.
Roast Lamb & Veg and then a storm after dinner.
HOUSE CREEK REST STOP
Thursday 12 September 2024
Starting kilometre’s: 9581
Temperature: 22 – 37, warm overnight with a wee storm, cool sunny morning.
We drive 251 kms to Bullara station today, arriving about 12:30pm. After set down we relax in the shade of the van. The temp is 34 at 1pm.
As the afternoon cools I take a walk to check out the camp kitchen, the bottle tree, the Lava Trees and Bill the Turtle. Curiously, and I’m a bit embarrassed to admit, it took me 24 hours to work out what a Lava Tree is!
SHEEP AFTERNOON STROLL
From 4:30 pm there is live music and a bar at the woolshed with guitarist Tommy Steez so we relax there and enjoy the cooling evening breeze, I particularly like his song, “I hate Byron Bay”! He sings some of my old favourites from Neil Young and Hendrix with his own arrangements which are interesting and different.
CHEERS SUZYFIREPIT
It’s Suzy’s funeral in Brisbane today so Rob and I have a quiet cheers to farewell my friend. A country girl like me, Suzy loved everything country so I reckon she would have loved Bullara Station.
Friday 13 September 2024
Temperature: 21-37, hot and sunny
Hot overnight but a cool breeze picked from around 3am for a cool morning.
I feed my starter Millie for bread and cinnamon rolls later.
Rob and I decide to do a trip to Coral Bay so we leave at 9am. It’s 69kms. We plan to spend the day on the beach and return at 3pm so I can make a loaf of bread and cinnamon rolls before we attend the famous “burger night” at Bullara Station.
We visit Bills Bay; a beautiful sweep of a bay which includes Maud’s Sanctuary zone so no fishing. We walked along the beach and see large fish, some at least 600mm in the water. Happy to swim near us, close enough to touch!
BILL’S BAY
Then we visited Monck Head, for a look and returned to Bills Bay for the day. I couldn’t resist videoing the fish.
We sheltered under a sandstone overhang and with the shade and the breeze, swimming and snorkeling had the best day!
CORAL BAY
As we leave Coral Bay we see quite a big build up of clouds. Makes me think of the wee storm two nights ago, maybe the build up is already starting?
It’s still 29 degrees when we leave at 3pm
The drive along Exmouth Gulf has outstanding views of wide sweeping plains, peppered by termit mounds all the way out to Giralia range. The photo’s don’t do it justice but it is a spectacular view.
GIRALIA RANGESUNSPOT ON THE PLAIN
Once back at Bullara, I hop to with my cinnamon rolls. I’m making my own recipe for the filling with apple and cinnamon and just a little sugar as I’m always trying to to reduce/cut sugar from my diet. I’m pretty pleased with the result but proof will be in the baking in the morning.
SOURDOUGH DISCARD CINNAMON ROLLS
We shower and get ready for the evening and I just have time to mix ingredients for a sourdough loaf. I’ll be busy later with the folds.
Later we hear there are 400 people here for burger night. The atmosphere is festive and we chat with Paula and Steve sitting next to us who are from Karratha.
The firepit is lit and they start cooking – about 30 burgers at a time I think?
FIREPIT BBQ
Shortly after a fellow comes in on a horse. We aren’t certain but it maybe the station manager. He heads to the bar, still on his horse and is provided a beer. This is a very Australian thing to do and everyone in the crowd including us love it.
BEER AT THE BAR!
The dinner queue starts soon and it’s an amazingly well rehearsed production that moves quickly. I must say the burger was one of the best I’ve ever eaten, truly. Very tasty, juicy with pickle, cheese, beetroot, onion slaw and your choice of sauce (mustard and tomato for me) and it didn’t fall apart! Rob liked it so much he planned to buy some burgers from reception the next day!
Thalia provides the entertainment tonight and does a great job with her three acoustic guitars, original scores and unique rhythm technique. To top the evening the sunset is a beauty!
BULLARA STATION SUNSET
Saturday 14 September 2024
Temperature: 20 – 37, warm overnight, sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 9984
Rob’s up early for a walk and I’m up to bake my cinnamon rolls and finish my loaf. I use the oven in the camp kitchen and I’m pretty happy with the result.
FRESH SOURDOUGH DISCARD CINNAMON ROLLS
We leave Bullara today and are heading South over the next week towards Geraldton. It’s going to be hot today so we decide to head back to Coral Bay for a few hours during the middle of the day. This time we go to Monck Head as it has a boating facility and parking for the van.
We park ourselves under another sandstone overhang. For the first hour the flies are terrible, hence the fly net but a wind change later provides some relief. Rob takes a walk and spies a small reef shark in the shallows and later we see a small sting ray in the shallows
REEF SHARK AT MONCK HEAD
We pack up about 2:30pm and head back to the car and then head South for another 80 or so km’s on the Minilya- Exmouth Road. The coast plains in this area are vast and seem to stretch on endlessly with narry a tree to be seen. We see vast spreads of yellow flowers before the road turns further inland and the landscape changes to low saltbush scrub. Lovely to see flowers and looking forward to more as we head South.
The dash show 40 degrees at 2:15pm and at 2:23pm we cross the Tropic of Capricorn.
We camp at Minilya Creek Rest area. We have reception for the Lions V GWS semi final. What a game!
MINILYA RIVER & BRIDGE
Sunday 15 September 2024
Temperature: 10 – 38, breezy overnight, warm and sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 10159
Today we are driving 140 km to Carnarvon which is uneventful. In Carnarvon we stop for fuel and groceries then visit Pelicans Point.
PELICAM POINT CARNAVON
We then drive a further 80km’s to Edagee Rest Stop where we are camping tonight. With pretty wildflowers.
Tomorrow we are revisiting Shell Beach and Shark Bay.
Locations: Karijini National Park, Tom Price, Paraburdoo.
Regions: Pilbara WA
Dates: 5 September – 10 September 2024
Temperatures: 8 – 39 degrees
Starting kilometres: 8383
Thursday 5 September 2024
Temperature: 14-28, overcast morning clearing to sun.
We set of just after 9am and arrive at Paraburdoo around 12pm. Along the way we pass amazing scenery that changes from really green to really dry. We see amazing creek beds, ranges and long stretches of highway. The scenery constantly changes, as do the colours showing deep hues of russet and grey blue under the overcast sky and then bright greens and ochres under the sun.
We stop at the information Centre before heading out to our camp near Mt Bruce. Paraburdoo is a mining town; gazetted in 1972 and has a memorial to Red Dog, born here in 1971 and star of the blockbuster movie of the same name.
Leaving Paraburdoo we start to see lots of wildflowers and then we are stopped at roadworks and hear that a 10m wide load is coming from one of the mines so we find a spot to pull off and wait for it. There’s two and they’re big!
NORTHERN BLUEBELL?LAVENDER MULLA MULLA
OVERSIZED TRAFFIC
Not long after this we go up and over a big hill and we see Mt Bruce and the start of Karijini. Karijini is WA’s second largest National Park covering 627,422 acres or 1,550390 hectares!
If kilometre’s is easier to imagine it’s 6,274.22 km squared!
Karijini is home to rock formations that are estimated to be 2.5billion years old. Most of the gorges and waterfalls are in the Northern part and most are accessible via sealed roads.
HAMERSLEY RANGEMT BRUCECAMP VIEW (MT NAMELESS)KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK
We make camp at Mt Bruce Camp just behind a Mount that I can’t find the name of so Mt Nameless to me.
It sits in front of Mt Bruce from this angle and we have a lovely view of Hamersley Ranges in the opposite direction. After dark, I see a huge amount of lights in the distance which we think are from the Marandoo Mine Camp.
SUNSET HAMERSLEY RANGELIGHTS!
Friday 6 September 2024
Temperatures: 8 – 25, cool and clear, sunny.
Starting kilometre’s: 8703
Today we are visiting Hamersley Gorge before going into Tom Price to shop and shower at the information centre.
It’s about 62km down a very red road. It’s gravel but a good road, wide and not too corrugated. Obviously used for mining traffic and we have Hamersley Range on our right for most of the drive there. The colours are vibrant and the deep russet red of the road has drifted into all the vegetation alongside the road, trees and shrubs alike.
The gorge is just a short 500m walk down with steps but I elect to stop at the lookout due to my foot so Rob heads down for a dip and takes some snaps while he’s down there. While enjoying the view I chat to a lady named Suzanne from the Sunshine Coast, Qld.
HAMERSLEY GORGE FROM LOOKOUTSPA POOLHAMERSLEY SWIMMING HOLEMULLA MULLA
Next up we drive into Tom Price for a shower. After five days of top and tail it’s welcome and refreshing. We pick up a few groceries, visit the dump point and refuel before heading back out.
TOM PRICE HAUL TRUCK
Saturday 7 September 2024
Temperature: 12-29, sunny
Today we are visiting Joffre and Knox Gorge. Both are in a different direction to Hamersley Gorge and are part of the Weano area and it’s about a 40 km drive. We set off just after 8am
Arriving Joffre I see some pretty wildflowers growing and it’s lovely that we are seeing more and more wildflowers every day. Spring has sprung!
JOFFRE GORGE
There’s a short walk and then rock steps down to the lookout. As we walk we start to see the Gorge open up and sitting on a natural step in the sun is a healthy King Brown! He’s shy so slips into a spinifex bush nearby so I don’t get a photo.
I manage the stairs down with help from Rob and the view is worth it. A lovely spot with Karijini Eco lodge opposite. There’s a walk around the Gorge to the other side and then down to the waterhole, Rob does the View and Waterhole walks while I patiently wait for the King brown to reappear but no chance.
I took a short video of the area for you. So pretty, such natural beauty!
Next we are off to Knox Gorge, not far away so only a short drive.
Knox is spectacular! Much bigger than Joffre, deeper, longer. Just wow!
KNOX GORGE
Rob sets off to hike the Gorge and I relax and enjoy the scenery from the lookout, chatting to other visitors.
It hard to catch Rob at the bottom as there are lots of shadows but I do manage to find him in this picture. As he’s about to cross the creek from the left to the right.
Rob takes some pictures while he’s walking of course, so these follow.
STAIRS DOWNBOTTOMSWIMMING HOLEENDLOOKOUT FROM BELOWROCK SCRAMBLEKNOX GORGE
These are spectacular spaces and with the lookouts I don’t feel like I’m missing out entirely which is nice.
On the drive back we stop to enjoy some wildflowers and views of Mt Bruce and Mt Nameless where we are camped.
MT BRUCEMT NAMELESSMT NAMELESS FROM OUR CAMP
It’s another spectacular sunset and then I’m awake early and catch sunrise behind our Mt Nameless.
SUNSETDAWN
Sunday 8 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 30
Today we are off to Circular Pool, Three Ways, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool at Dales Gorge and then lastly Hancock Gorge via a circular loop of about 120 km’s.
We arrive at Circular Pool and Three Ways about 10:45am, these two are at one end of the walk to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which are at the other end of Dales Gorge with about 2.5 km’s between them.
We visit both lookouts which are amazing and then Rob heads out to walk Dales Gorge while I jump in the car and drive to the other end to meet him. Circular Pool walk is closed due to a rock slide last wet season.
CIRCULAR POOLROCK SLIDETENACITY!THREE WAYS
I walk back to the car slowly taking in the beautiful gum trees along the edge of the gorge.
I’m quickly at Fortescue falls which has a big park and recreation area with a boardwalk to the lookout which has a superb view back towards Three Ways, along Dale Gotge and in the other direction towards Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool which is above the falls.
DALES GORGEFORTESCUE FALLS
From the lookout it’s a good 280 steps and stairs down to the Falls so I’m happy to sit and enjoy the view while I wait for Rob. A ranger stops and we have a brief chat and she tells me there are 2-3 rescues for sprains and breaks in the Gorge each week! Each one takes about 5-8 hours to rescue and the nearest medical is Tom Price about 80km’s away from here. The ranger also tells me she does the stairs about 5 times a day, every shift, wow. The ranger tells me Oxer lookout at Hancock Gorge is the best in her opinion. That’s next on our trip today.
Rob appears and it’s only taken him about 1.5hrs to do the walk, swim and climb the steps out! How fit is he.
He’s taken some pictures of the walk and pools which follow. Looks lovely.
TRACKLEANING ROCKSMALL WATERFALL ON THE WAYNO GO – OVERHANGFORTESCUE FALLS POOLFERN POOLDALES GORGE
Our last Gorge today is Hancock Gorge at Weano Recreation reserve as we continue our loop drive. The scenery continues to amaze with rock formations and outstanding scenes at every turn.
We arrive at Weano, check out the maps then head out to Oxer lookout. It’s 800 m walk or drive so we elect to drive.
Hancock gorge is magnificent, stretching out in four directions. The cliffs are sheer and deep and it’s only possible to see the bottom, where there is water up one angle of the gorge. There is a walk and I’m disappointed not to be fit enough as I think it would be amazing to walk between the walls of this great chasm in the earth.
Rob decides to do the Kermit’s pool walk so we return to the park and I sit in the shade admiring a cute Spinifex Pidgeon pair. He’s dancing but she’s having none of it! It hit 32 at 2:30pm so it’s quite hot.
Rob’s photos of Kermit’s pool are below. Love the narrow gorge pool photo with the reflection.
Wow what a day. Karijini sure delivers with its beautiful ruggedness and natural wonders.
Monday 9 September 2024
Temperature: 13-31 breezy morning, sunny
Rob’s walking Mt Bruce (1235m) this morning so I baked some sourdough discard crackers that I’d prepped a couple of days ago, did some exercise, meditated and blogged. Nice to have a quiet morning to myself.
Rob enjoyed his hike, returning just before 12pm.
TOP OF MT BRUCE
In the afternoon we head into Tom Price for a shower, and a few groceries and otherwise enjoyed the quiet and ambience of Karrijini on our last day.
33 degrees at 1:30pm.
Tuesday 11 September 2024
Temperature: 15 – 29 overcast and a few spits of rain before 8:00am!
Starting kms: 9257
We are leaving beautiful Karijini today for Paraburdoo, 131 km’s away. We’ve heard the caravan park there is attached to the mining camp and has free washing machines and you can have dinner in the miners mess! All you can eat for $21.
Thought we would try it out and perhaps a good opportunity to get rid of some of the red dirt of the last few weeks before we head back to coast tomorrow.
Hope this finds you all well. Stay safe and take care. Love Maryann and Rob
Locations: Karratha, Yannarie, Exmouth, Cape Range National Park WA.
Regions: Pilbara, Gascoyne WA
Dates: 29 August – 1 September 2024
Temperatures: 17 – 37degrees
Starting kilometres: 7128
Thursday 29 August
Temp: 18 – 37, hot and sunny
We leave Karratha around 9:30am with a long day of driving ahead. Hoping to do about 340 kilometres.
About 5 kilometres out we receive a rock strike on the windscreen from a truck cutting in to soon after overtaking which gives both of us a scare but thankfully no damage.
The landscape changes more often today as we move through Mardie. I think we have Hammersley Range on our left and then we cross over the Fortescue River. The third longest river in the state it is named after Chichester Fortescur, Parliamentary under Secretary of State for the Colonies in 1861.
Fortescue is also a family name on Rob’s mum’s side of his family.
FORTESCUE RIVER
By 11:30am it’s 35 degrees as we pass over the Robe River, wide and mostly dry.
ROBE RIVER
We then come to an overpass at Fortescue with a gravel road running underneath in either direction and lots of radio chatter between a stationary vehicle and road trains turning left and right onto the highway, with a Mining operation nearby, we suspect.
An hour later, in the distance more ranges appear and Parry Range comes into view as we pass Cane River Conservation Park. By 1:00pm we reach Nanutarra Roadhouse and here we refuel.
PARRYRANGE
We arrive at our camp for tonight, Yannarie around 2pm. We relax in the shade of the van til sundown before an early dinner and night.
YANNARIE SUNSET
Friday 30 August 2024
Yannarie to Exmouth
Temp: 17 – 30, cool breeze over night and morning, warm and sunny.
I’m awakened at 3:30 by a stiff breeze and it’s cooler than it’s been for days. The cool change is welcome relief after all the heat.
I’m looking forward to seeing the Coast again at Exmouth and after about 40km’s today we enter the Gascoyne region before turning right onto Warlu Way towards Coral Bay, Exmouth and Cape Range National Park. We will be in the Gascoyne Region for the next few weeks.
80 kms along the Warlu way we pass Bullara station. We will return and spend time at Bullara Station in mid September. Due to bookings we will be doing a bit of criss crossing in this area in the next few weeks.
Then we turn right again toward Exmouth.
We are staying at the RAC Exmouth park for two nights. Unfortunately when we arrive it’s very windy. Wind is prevalent all along the WA coast so you just never know how it will be and you have to take the bad with the good. I’m hopeful that the wind will die down by the time we get out to Cape Range national Park so that we can enjoy the best of the Ningaloo reef while we’re there.
After set down and a bit of a break we head out to explore Exmouth with a drive out to the start of the Cape Range NP and the Vlaming Head lighthouse which is about 25km’s out.
NINGALOO COAST
While there we read that the lighthouse is the only point in Australia where you can get both sunrise and sunset from the one point so we decide to rise extra early on Sunday to catch sunrise out here before we head out to Cape Range and then do sunset out there.
Saturday 31 August 2024
Exmouth to Cape Range NP
Temp: 17 – 28 sunny and windy 25 – 45kph with gusts
A very slow day today. The wind is gusting and it’s very unpleasant so we have a cruisy morning with egg and bacon rolls then do a a few groceries then a drive around Exmouth.
We visit a new Marina estate and while checking out the boats I see a huge eel swimming underwater along the rock wall. He’s obviously hunting for his lunch!
EEL
Sunday 1 September 2024
Temp: 20 – 30 cool & breezy morning, sunny.
We rise at 5:30am, dress and grab a jacket as it’s cool and breezy, then jump in the car and drive to the lighthouse. It’s magnificent to see the light in the sky change through a myriad of colour and to experience sunrise like this on the WA coast.
NINGALOO COAST WA SUNRISE
After about 1/2 an hour we head back into town pack up and hitch and then head back out again, this time continuing down the Ningaloo Coast Road for another 36 km’s with the coast on our right and Cape Range on our left to our booked spot at MESA campground. The wind has settled as the day progresses and we are looking forward to the next three days exploring Ningaloo Reef.
MESA CAMPMESA BEACHMESA BEACHMESA BEACHTURQUOISE BAY
We arrive, set down and have a chat to Rick and Val, the volunteer camp hosts then throw on togs and we are off for a snorkel at Turquoise Bay. Rob does some drift snorkeling on the current while I choose to swim and let my ankle just enjoy the cool water.
We spend a couple of hours enjoying the water before heading back to van where I have planned a roast lamb for Rob for Father’s Day. We enjoy the sunset in the dunes with a glass of wine and agree it’s been a perfect day!
SUNSET MESA CAMP – NINGALOO REEF
Happy Fathers Day to all the dad’s we know . Stay safe and take care of one another.
Locations: Eighty Mile Beach, Pardoo & Cape Keraudren, Port Hedland, Karratha WA
Regions: Kimberley, Pilbara WA
Dates: Sunday 25 August – Thursday 29 August 2024
Temperatures: 24 – 37 degrees, hot!
Startingkilometre’s: 6490
Today we are leaving Eighty Mile Beach heading for Karratha with a couple of stops along the way.
The weather has really heated up and we hear on radio national that in the last few days 140 year old August temperature records are being broken all over the Kimberley and Pilbara regions!
Up until the last couple of days the nights have been nice and cool provided welcome relief from the hot days but last night it only got down to 24 and that’s on the coast so you can imagine what inland temps are like!
Today we are traveling 173 kilometre’s to De Grey River Free camp, moving into the Pilbara and driving mostly along the coast.
TODAY
Still traveling along the Great Northern Highway we turn right at Pardoo towards Cape Keraudren which is about 6 kilometre’s, mostly bitumen.
Cape Keraudren is a Nature Reserve not part of WA parks so day and overnight fees apply to visit. We arrive at 11:30am and it’s already 36 degrees. Rob wants to walk to a blowhole nearby so I elect for a shorter stroll to the boat ramp and enjoy views of the coastline.
CAPE KERAUDREN
Continuing on we pass Pardoo heading South to our overnight camp on DeGrey River. Rob walks to the river but it’s dry. Next morning as we leave we cross another bridge on the DeGrey River and this one has water.
PARDOODE GREY RIVER CAMP SUNSETDE GREY RIVER SUNRISEDE GREY RIVER
Monday 26 August 2024
Temperature: 20 – 38 sunny and hot.
Today we are passing through Port Hedland for fuel and supplies but not stopping. We plan to Freecamp again on our way to Karratha.
As we are driving towards The Port we pass a very long train loaded with ore and a large salt mining operation.
Fun fact, each carriage carries 140 tonne of ore and each train has 140 carriages!
IRON ORE TRAI PORT HEDLANDSALT MINING
Just after this we are on a dual carriageway and a driver alongside of us makes a circling motion attracting my attention. Something must be wrong so we pull over and the driver does too then comes back to tell us the drivers side wheel of the van is on an angle! He thinks we may have done a bearing.
I immediately start searching for caravan repairers and calling, after 3 attempts I get onto Bruce Rock engineering and they say to head over, they can take a look.
Based on advice from a tyre guy a while back Rob bought two hub and bearing kits in case so we have our own spares if needed.
Bruce Rock assess and it’s not the bearings at all, the wheel is slightly loose by about 5ml which is negligible and he’s amazed that the guy could see this from the road. Phew! Crisis averted!
In any case it’s good to have both wheels checked and tightened and the service is at a very reasonable cost.
By 12:30pm we are back on the road and back to our brief tour around the Port of Hedland. We visit Pretty Pool on the way out and then it’s onto refueling and supplies before heading back to the highway. Good to be back in the car too as it hit 39 degrees at 2:30pm.
PIRT HEDLANDPRETTY POOL
We cross Yule River which is very wide has no water but some cows are wandering about and our camp tonight is at Peawah River.
YULE RIVERPEAWAH CAMP
Tuesday 27 August 2024
Temperature: 18-34, sunny and hot
On the highway by 9:30am and this morning we saw a Flock of Emu’s; the first for a while, hills start to appear and the vibrant Stuart Dessert Pea pops up in patches alongside the highway from Whim Creek for about 10km’s. The temperature hits 33 degrees at 10:30am!
We cross Sherlock and then little Sherlock Rivers. One with water, one without. So different.
SHERLOCK RIVERLITTLE SHERLOCK
We turn towards Roebourne and briefly stop for a break. I grab a coffee from the community cafe and it’s a good one! Thank you Roeburne Cafe.
ROEBURNE HISTORICAL GAOLGOOD COFFEE
We arrive Karratha about 12:30pm. The town is very nice, tidy and obviously has lots of industry around mining..
We are here two nights and after set down we head out to Dampier, a further 20km’s to see the coast. We’ve heard the pub; the Mermaid, has great views and cheap meals so maybe dinner out tonight.
As we drive out, there is a long causeway with salt lakes either side and when we arrive the pub does have a lovely view and we think the sunset will be good so we decide to have an early dinner.
THE MERMAIDDAMPIERDAMPIER SUNSET
Wednesday 28 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 35, hot and sunny
I’m awake early as usual and find a message from a girlfriend in Qld bearing sad news. An old friend has passed away tragically and unexpectedly.
Suzy and I knew each other through my daughter’s primary school years. She was an amazing woman, full of fun, spirit and a very kind person.
I feel so sad for her children, young adults going forward without her and for a life lived but taken too young.
The news weighs heavy. Times like this, it’s hard to be away from the support of friends but they are also just on the other end of a chat too which I take comfort from.
A quiet day of contemplation, washing and preparation for our onward trip towards Exmouth tomorrow.
Locations: Broome, Barn Hill, Eighty Mile Beach WA
Regions: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 21 August – Saturday 24 August 2024
Temperatures: 18 – 37 hot and sunny
Starting kilometer’s: 6096
We leave Broome around 10am with the destination of Barn Hill Beach Side Station stay 149 kilometre’s away so not a long drive today.
The landscape is arid and dry, flat and there are not a lot changes along the way. It’s also very hot today.
ROEBUCK
Barn Hill Station is a 10km drive off the Great Northern Highway along a red gravel road with four gates. At every gate we find vehicles behind our vehicle so naturally I wait to let them through. They all say thanks but not one offers to wait to shut the gate, despite my limping. Nothing surprises me these days.
The station is set along a clifftop, has a cafe where you can order the days meal, buy coffee and pastries and fresh baked bread. There are amenity blocks, huts to camp in and you can walk or drive down onto the beach.
After set down we head down to the beach for a slow walk.
BARN HILL BEACHSIDE STATION STAY
The beach is lovely and currently at low tide with an amazing 7 metre tide change (probably due to the full moon this week) so goes out a long way revealing all sorts of beautiful rock and sand sculptures along the coast line.
BARN HILL LOW TIDE
On our return to camp we seek and find Tony and Amanda’s van; friends made in Manning Gorge. We stop by to say hello and chat a while before heading back to our van.
Thursday 22 August 2024
Temperature: 21 – 28, warm and sunny
The next day Rob takes an early run on Barn Hill Beach and I rest my foot – too much walking yesterday. Later we wander over to the cafe to get a loaf of their whole grain high top bread to go with our snags in bread for tea tonight.
At the top of the cliffs we find some pink mulla mulla wildflowers.
PINK MULLA MULLA WILDFLOWERS
Later Rob returns to the beach for a high tide picture and then sunset.
BARN HILL HIGH TIDEBARN HILL SUNSET
Friday 23 August 2024
Temperature: 21 – 28 sunny
We have a longer drive today, 256 kilometre’s trekking down the coast line to Eighty Mile Beach.
The landscape remains desert dry, arid and flat for most of the drive with floodplains and an escarpment glimpsed in the distance.
We stop at the aptly named Sandfire roadhouse to refuel. It’s busy with a queue for fuel that takes 30 minutes!
SANDFIRE ROADHOUSE QUEUE
Again we turn right off the highway towards Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park and head down another red gravel road for 9 kilometre’s to the park. No gates today thankfully.
The park is spacious and our site is on grass and shady which is a welcome change to the red dirt and sand sites of late.
After set down we take a walk to the beach. There’s no swimming due to crocodiles and stingers and as if that isn’t enough all the fisho’s are catching sharks!
The beach is a stunner though with attractive aqua water and a lovely breeze. It can be driven on though so even more caution required…
EIGHTY MILE LEFTEGHTY MILE RIGHTEIGHTY MILE OUT FRONT
The walk to the beach, then along and back again is enough for my ankle , it’s also very hot the past few days so we retreat into the shade for the remainder of the afternoon.
We head back to the beach for sunset and it’s a beauty over the water. The tide has gone so far out, about a kilometre at least we thought and amazingly I seem to catch a stairway to the sun photo over the flats!
Saturday 24 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34, hot & sunny
Today is even hotter so I catch up on some washing and making bread. My loafs aren’t optimal at present as I’m using lower protein flour, a different wholemeal to feed, it’s consistently warmer and I’m baking in the van oven so I’m trying a levain, made from my starter Millie then fed, bloomed and used in the dough but that’s not really working either. My loafs have a good crumb but there is no real rise which is frustrating.
In the cool of the late afternoon I see a pheasant walking across the top of the hedge next to the van and some White breasted Woodswallows I think, high in the treetops. If I’m correct they are related to the Artamidae family of Butcher birds, Currawongs and Magpies here in Australia.
WHITE BREASTED WOODSWALLOW
Tomorrow we are off again leaving the Kimberley for the Pilbara as we head towards Port Hedland and Karratha.
Locations: Derby, Fitzroy River, Nillibubbica, Broome
Regions: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 14 August – Tuesday 21 August 2024
Temperatures: 13 – 33 degrees
Wednesday 14 August, 2024
Starting Kilometre’s: 5535
Temperature: 13 – 33 degrees, sunny.
We left Derby around 10am for just a short drive today, 116 kilometres to Nillibubbica Rest Area via the Great Northern Highway which crosses the Fitzroy River
FITZROY RIVER
According to WikiCamps there are some Crocodile sighting areas along the way so we stop at each one hoping for a sighting. Signs of recent and major roadworks in the area will have impacted the local population though and we only see flood plains and the Minnie River apart from the partial remains of a dead crocodile.
MINNIE RIVER
We camp at Nillibucca Freecamp in shade and relax for the afternoon, me with my foot alternating up or on ice.
Thursday 15 August 2024
Temperature: 15 – 32 degrees, sunny.
Another 107 kilometre’s to Broome and we arrive late morning, chase down some groceries then check in and set up. Broome Caravan Park is large with a big oasis pool complete with lap lanes and lots of shady recliners to relax in. We spend the afternoon cooling off in the pool, my foot loving the cold water. Later in the afternoon we visit the Town Beach Markets where we grab dinner of Chicken Satay and Green Curry.
Broome has strong historical ties to Asia due to strong migration from the 1880 to the 1960’s from countries like Japan due to the pearling and associated industries.
As we head back to the car I spy a small Sea Eagle eating his catch atop a light post.
Broome has an outdoor Cinema called Sun City Cinema in the “Chinatown” district of Broome so we head there to take in the new Alien sequel, just starting today. The cinema is the real deal with hessian seating and not much changed in over 40 years I’m later told. It is a real treat with a bar and choc tops to boot!
Also as we watch the movie and to top it off, planes are flying in very low overhead on their runway approach! The first one gave me a good scare!
Friday 16 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 32 sunny
This morning I make some sourdough discard muffins and do some washing before heading into town. I’ve been trying to rest my foot but I’m determined to visit the famous Paspaley and other Broome shops in the lookout for a South Sea Pearl. Rob takes a walk out to the town jetty then picks me up. The pearl’s are so beautiful but so very expensive! Maybe I’ll do better at the weekend markets with the 2nd or 3rd grade pearls.
MUFFINSCHINATOWN
Saturday 17 August 2024
Temperature: 17 – 33, morning fog then sunny.
Quite a strange start to the day with morning fog that didn’t clear until 8:30am. The day warms and feels humid, summer like?
A restful day with another cooling swim before we head to Cable Beach in the afternoon for a look and to plan a picnic for Sunday with some friends we are catching up with.
CABLE BEACH
Sunday 18 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33 sunny
We pick up friends Rudite and Ian who are from Morgan, SA whom I’ve known for years from visiting my sister there. We have arranged to take them to the weekend markets and visit Roebuck bay lookout afterwards. No luck in my pearl hunt but Rudite and I buy hats and Rudite finds a lovely necklace as a souvenir of the visit.
COURTHOUSE MARKETSROEBUCK BAY LOOKOUT
The day is heating up so next we head to MATSO’s Brewery, the oldest in Broome to cool off where the others get paddles to taste. I’m the designated driver so I have my usual version of a lemon lime and bitters which is fruit only, no syrup, bitters and soda water. Healthy and refreshing.
RUDITE AT MATSO’sKEG SINK!MATSO’S BREWERY HISTORY
It’s been a busy morning so we all head back for Siesta’s in the heat of the afternoon then gather again for a picnic at Cable Beach in the late afternoon.
The hot and humid day cools off to a breezy afternoon and there are loads of people about for the sunset. We see a camel train coming in off the beach before we leave. A lovely day.
PICNIC AT CABLE BEACH
Monday 19 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33, hot & sunny
A relaxing morning and we are catching up with some new friends today, in fact are meeting for the first time! Friends of friends who are traveling & living in their van like us, we have both landed in Broome at the same time so we have organised to meet for lunch at Spinifex Brewery.
We meet Leanne and Cheryl at 1pm and it’s truly like meeting old friends. We find common ground very quickly and chat our way through lunch and the afternoon sharing life and travel stories. What a lovely pair.
We see the camel trains walking past as they head to cable beach too.
NEW FRIENDS!
CAMEL TRAIN
A really lovely day!
Tuesday 20 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 32 hot, sunny
Our last day in Broome today so we have a few jobs to do. I’ve found a bookmaker in town who will hopefully fix my hiking boots but no, he tells me they are disintegrating and beyond repair so in the bin they go. Oh well, they’ve been great boots with 8 years of service so I can’t complain. Next is BCF in search of tap fittings then we drive out to Kimberley port as they have a Natural Arch then to Gantheaume Bay to see how far out the dinosaur prints are and to check the tide which is currently high.
KIMBERLEY PORTNATURAL ARCHMINYIRR PARK
In the afternoon we pick up Ian and Rudite as we plan to go see the dinosaur footprints, then the Town Markets to see the Stairway to the Moon and dinner afterwards.
We head to Gantheaume Bay as the tide is now right but looking at the map the dinosaur prints are too far around the point, over too many rocks to make an easy walk so we head back to Minyirr bay at the Port as I’ve found some there too.
DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS
Next it’s back into town to the Markets and the Staircase to the Moon. The Stairway to the Moon is a phenomenon that occurs at Full Moons for 2-3 days between March and October when the tide is fully out and the reflection carries across the tidal flat creating a stairway of reflection to the moon.
Rudite’s and I visit the markets while Rob parks the car then meets Ian at a nearby bar to wait for sundown.
I finally find a pearl that’s within the budget I set and Rudite finds a lovely one also, so we are both happy shoppers.
As the sunsets and moonrise approaches the four of us find a position to watch from amid the thousands (no I’m not joking) of people here.
MY SOUTH SEA PEARLHERE IT COMES!
I’ve studied hard to try and get the best pictures I can on the iPhone and take lots of snaps with reduced exposure, night mode, flash off etc.
It is an amazing thing to see for real so if you visit Broome I recommend planning for it.
Next up is dinner at Divers Tavern which has been recommended. It’s busy today after the Ladies Cup and the Stairway event so there are people everywhere.
We’ve had an amazing time in Broome, despite my foot injury. It’s been lovely catching up with friends old and new and the relaxation has been good too.
I hope this finds everyone well. Stay safe and be kind.
Dates: Saturday 10 August – Tuesday 13 August 2024
Temperatures: 14 – 34, sunny & hot.
Derby
Saturday 10 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34
Hot over night and I’ve used up the last of the ice in my foot. I’m awake at dawn and Rob not long after. Today will be a slow day for me but I’m hoping we can make the famous Derby Mud Crab races this afternoon.
Rob attends to washing and a few groceries while I keep my foot elevated and watch the black cockatoos eating seeds in a nearby tree. Their raucous but gentle cries to each other sounds like they are chatting about the taste of the seeds.
Rob returns from the washing line about 200m away and shows me a picture of two Frogmouths asleep in a nearby tree. I’m determined to get there soon to see for myself but I’m still adapting to the crutches.
FROGMOUTHS
The mud crab races, held at the Mary Island Fishing Club start at 3pm. We are a bit late due to my slowness and unfortunately all the crabs are taken. We don’t mind and find chairs to watch the heats. There are 10 races, 2 semi’s and a grand final. The host Darren does a spectacular job and is hilariously funny. Punters who were lucky to buy a crab had to name the crab and give their names and where they were from. Darren introduces each crab and the “trainers” and where they are from and asks why they named the crab as they did. You would be surprised how many people named their crabs after their dogs! Darren then calls the race and along with his helpers nudges the crabs to get racing! It’s a lot of good fun.
MUD CRAB RACES, MARY ISLANDS FISHING CLUB
RACE 1
We are able to buy drinks and dinner tickets for $20. Dinner is a bbq burger, sausage, salad and a taste of mud crab!
All losers go in for a warm bath!
SUNSET – MARY ISLANDS FISHING CLUB
Rob and I had a great time. We enjoyed the jolly fun of the races, caught up with a few fellow traveler’s we met along the Gibb and dinner was good too. I gave Rob my muddy as he had done extra work all day looking after me.
Sunday 11 August 2024
Temperature: 15 – 33, hot
Another morning of resting and icing my ankle, which is starting to colour up today and quite swollen.
We plan two small outings today, both to the same place at different times to see the low and hide tides, as the tide goes out a long way.
I tried to catch the same image in three locations from the jetty to show how much the tide changes things.
LOW TIDEHIGH TIDE
At low tide we saw a lot of these odd looking fish. Maybe a type of mullet?
We also took in the sculptures around Derby after seeing the low tide and waited for the sunset after the high tide.
DERBY SCULPTER’SDERBY SUNSET
Monday 12 August, 2024
Temperature: 16 – 33, hot & sunny.
Today is our overnight trip to Horizontal falls, something both Rob and I have been very much looking forward to ever since Rob booked it 9 months ago!
We are being picked up at 12:45 so I take an early walk down to the Frogmouths without the crutches as I don’t want to take them. I figure it’ll be easier to manage all the steps on and off planes and boats without them if I can manage it. It goes slowly but I think I’ll be ok.
We are flying in a seaplane which is exciting and a first for both of us. The flight out is directly North to Talbot Bay and the return journey tomorrow flies North West over the archipelago before turning South West back to Derby.
Turns out to be a long walk out to the plane. Oh well!
We are lucky to be travelling with new friends Tony & Amanda, whom me we met at Manning Gorge – they have a Traxx Series 3.0 and an Isuzu tow vehicle same colour as ours and another group of four, two couples we met at Ellenbrae, from Alice Springs.
The landing is smooth and the water is the most gorgeous aqua blue and the surrounding environment beautifully pristine.
We are quickly disembarked, drop our overnight bags, geared up with life vest and then straight onto a jet boat. In all this I leave the bag with my camera behind so these next shots are Rob’s and the tour guides!
HORIZONTAL FALLS
The jet boat ride is exhilarating with lots of fast turns and figure eights on both sides so that we can see every angle of the coastline leading up to the Horizontal Falls.
Created by the huge tidal movements in the area moving through the gaps in the McLarty Range, which has two ridges running parallel and approximately 300 metres apart.
The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide and the second gap is about 7.5 metres wide.
Our tour guide Jack does a really good job of explaining the age and geological features of the area and promotes a healthy respect for the cultural significance of these lands for our indigenous people.
After passing in front of the first gap several times we eventually motor through which is exhilarating and then circle back and pass through again and again. The tidal fall at present is only about 1 metre but can be significantly higher we are told.
We then cross the water to view the second gap which is much narrower and are told that for cultural reasons we won’t pass through or proceed further. Instead we hover close to the gap and do figure 8’s in front of the much smaller gap.
This area is a true wonder of nature to behold and according to Jack our guide, described as the “8th wonder of the world by Sir David Attenborough. I mt’s so beautiful I totally agree.
We head back through the falls again and back out into Talbot Bay where the pontoon is moored and then further on and past then turn left up Cyclone Creek. The geological features of the ranges on either side are amazing, they are so old!
I’m sure these photos won’t do it justice but they are amazing to see!
The whole area is pristine and very beautiful. I swear I can feel the weight of time passed here and I feel very grateful to be visiting this spectacularly special place.
As the sun begins its trek towards the horizon we head back to the pontoon.
Next up we have swimming with sharks! Rob’s keen of course!
Just kidding, he actually swims next to them with a barrier. I’m surprised at how graceful and beautiful they are and I’m totally mesmerized, my fear forgotten. We have several smaller dusky sharks, one beaten up grey nurse, affectionately known as “agro” and a big lemon shark visiting.
DUSKIESROB SWIMMING WITH SHARKS!AGROLEMON SHARK
One little dusky has learnt a party trick to get attention for the barra that Jack is throwing to the sharks. He swims on his back!
Sunset is a beauty and we enjoy pre dinner snacks and a drink. Dinner is freshly wild caught barramundi pan seared with some lovely salads and grilled potatoes, followed by an apple crumble.
SUNSET TALBOT BAY
Dinner is all but over by 7:30pm and the staff say goodnight. We linger over coffee and tea chatting to our dinner companions Tony and Amanda and another couple Natalie and Ray from Victoria. My foot is up with an ice pack kindly provided by staff which is sweet relief and it’s lovely to relax before we head to our cabin around 9pm.
Tuesday 13 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 32 hot & sunny.
It’s an early start with breakfast at 6am and our overnight bag packed ready to leave. I’ve been awake since before 5am so I’m ready by 5:45am so take some early photos of the coming sunrise from the pontoon deck.
BARRA SHACK, OUR ACCOMMODATION
After a cooked and continental breakfast we are back on the boat for another trip to the falls to see the reverse tide.
Talbot bay is like glass and the sun hitting the ranges seems to make them glow. It’s cool and apart from the boat very quiet as we motor to the falls.
OUTGOING TIDE HORIZONTAL FALLS
Someone asks if you can swim through the falls. Our guide Jack answers with a story of Pearl Fisherman who were curious about this so threw a 44 gallon drum in. It disappeared and didn’t come up. The next day they found drum, flattened like a coke can. He further explained that the tides wash through all the way to the bottom of the gaps and that there are rocks at the bottom. I can see the whirlpools created so I’m thinking the answer is a firm no!
I managed to get a video snippet that shows the tidal pace on the corner. About 25km/hr! Fascinating!
We spend about half an hour slowly touring through the first fall and viewing the second before returning to the pontoon. Within minutes we see several seaplanes heading in with new guests and soon it’s time for us to leave.
PONTOON
SEAPLANE ARRIVING
From the air you can clearly see the two ridge lines of the McLarty Range that have created the phenomenon of the Horizontal Falls.
As we fly back we pass over the Archipelago which seems endless from the air, we pass the Graveyard, an area where many pearl divers have lost their lives before turning South West towards Cone and Cascade Bays. We then fly over a Barramundi Farm.
ARCHIPELAGO BARRAMUNDI FARM
We arrive back in Derby in seemingly no time. My foot is painful today after all the steps, stairs and ramps so when we get back to the van I rest up for a while.
We finish our last day in Derby with a roadtrip out to Birdwood Station to stock up on meat. Funnily enough the lady who serves us was at the hospital same day as me with a sprained ankle also so we chat.
On the way back to town we stop at the Boab Prison tree.
BOAB PRISON TREE
Wow! Derby has been amazing. So much more here than we expected!
Locations: Manning Girge, Galway Horge, Imintji, Bell Gorge, Derby
Region: Kimberley WA
Dates: Wednesday 7 August – Friday 9 August 2024.
Temperatures 17 – 34 degrees Wunamiin Miliwundi Ranges (prev King Leopold Ranges)
Total trip kilometres: 5058
Wednesday 7 August 2024
Manning Gorge to Imintji 80km’s
We had a very nice evening yesterday chatting with Greg and Tracey from Bundaberg area whom we met on the Gorge trail yesterday. We sharing stories, wine and two very nice cheese platters. A lovely evening with lovely people.
This morning we are moving onto our next camp at Imintji Community Camp where we will stay for two nights and visit Bell Gorge tomorrow.
On the way to Imintji Community Camp and just at the start of the Phillips Ranges is Galvans Gorge. We stop for a walk and a swim.
The track in is about 1km, mostly sand with a few rocks.
The Gorge when we arrive is beautiful and shady. A cool oasis on this hot day.
We both head in for a dip and visit the waterfall on the other side before I swim back and take some photos.
I see three white cockatoo’s head to the top of the fall. It’s very likely there’s a pool up there and it is obviously a favourite spot for them to drink and bathe and stepping back I see a beautiful boab tree right at the very top of the Gorge.
It is such a an awesomely lovely place, cool, peaceful and serene.
I’m reluctant to leave.
But continue on we do. Back to the car and off we head, up and then over the Phillip Ranges now heading South West and towards the Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges.
As we drive, we see hills starting to appear at our sides and ranges in the distance and we have bitumen for about 20km’s, a nice change from the gravel.
Before long we see Bell Gorge camp, then Imintji Community Store and then the campground. We check in at the store and on the way to the camp see a Brahman on the side of the road and then two more big beautiful Brahman bulls sauntering down the road.
OUR CAMP
We make camp with a big golden escarpment as our backdrop and later as the sun sets I take a few snaps of the dusky, dusty wilderness.
MOON & EVENING STARIMINTJI COMMUNITY CAMP
Thursday 8 August 2024
Temperature: 19 – 34
Today we are hiking Bells Gorge which is about 45km’s from here.
We planned to set off nice and early and spend most of the hot part of the day there 9am – 3pm but were delayed by a couple seeking help around 7:30am. They had a problem with their van and needed to contact the manufacturer so we turned the Starlink on and then waited until they got a message through and then a reply back with a short term solution to keep them going so we set off about 9:00am and arrived at the Gorge around 10:00am
As we get ready to leave the car the sole of my left boot peels off so I swap to my Merry People boots.
It’s a short fairly easy walk to the Gorge with sand and then a rocky creek bed and two creek crossings.
The walk is pleasant but rocky. We make it to the gorge in about 20mins.
BELL GORGE TRACK
The second part of the track around to the falls (in red on the map) is a level 5 walk so I opt to stay at the top and take pictures of Rob swimming below, up to the falls.
The Gorge is quite long and there are already a lot of people here including an APT Kimberley tour group, swimming as I take pictures of Rob setting off for his walk.
BOOTS OFF
I walk up the Gorge beside the falls and take pictures of Rob as he comes down on the other side and has his swim. The water looks deep and I can see rocks below the surface. These places are absolutely amazing.
ROB UNDER THE FALLS
The falls are so awesome and the sound is refreshing and clear in this oasis setting.
BELL GORGE VIDEO
I take a picture of the Gorge in both directions before hopping in for a swim in one of the top pools.
The picture above shows a fellow with a white cap and black trunks on. As I was getting in to swim he eases himself over the top ledge of the falls and sits in crevasse with the water flowing around him. The rocks here all have either black or green algae on them which makes them very slippery. My nerves ratchet up as I think of how the day could be ruined for everyone present if he slipped and fell. The foolishness of people in these places never ceases to amaze me. I see the tour guide shaking his head and people in his group start to call him back, saying he’s making them anxious so it’s not only me that feels this way.
I swim up to the edge of the falls, stand about two metre’s back on a sandy patch and wave at Rob and he takes a picture of me at the top of the falls. I’m in the pink shirt!
We enjoy a great day at Bell Gorge, swimming, lounging in the rocks and chatting to people from all over the country, some international people too. We explore the rocks and spend ages watching a Mertens Monitor alternately sunning himself on the rocks and then diving into the water for a dip and repeating this over and over again. It’s beautiful with pale yellow spots on its dark brown skin.
MERTENS MONITORIN FOR A DIP
We enjoy snacks; some muesli bars I made yesterday and apples, while enjoying the cool shade from the rocks, Rob even dozing for a bit. A really lovely day… until we head back at about 2:30pm.
We walk back to the car park and visit the toilets and as I exit and head down the steps I badly roll my right ankle on an exposed rock underneath the last step. Oh no!
The pain is really bad and I can barely stand. Thankfully Rob heard my yelp and he’s there to steady me.
The pain is so bad I’m fearful I’ve done something bad, it’s all around my ankle and it can’t bear my weight.
Rob moves the car closer and with his help and my walking poles I make it to the car. The 7km drive back to Bell Gorge campground is rough and I’m in agony so when we arrive Rob rearranges the gear in the back seat and moves me there so my right foot is elevated. Then it’s another 45 odd km of rough road back to Imintji community and Rob stops at the store to get ice and then back to camp and before long my foot is in a bucket of ice water… I won’t tell you about getting the boot off!
SPRAINED OR BROKEN?
After that it’s a compression bandage, elevation and more ice. Known as the R.I.C.E first aid technique.
We have to change our plans now so decide to skip Winjana Gorge and the Tunnel Creek hike and head straight to Derby tomorrow. I’m sad about this as I know Rob was really looking forward to the walk – it involves a swim in a cave across 25metre’s with your gear in a dry bag and you need headlamps. So we will reschedule this if we can. It’s about 120km’s from the turn off to Winjana to Derby on the Gibb-Derby road. There also our trip to horizontal falls next week to consider but I don’t want to get ahead of myself.
Friday 9 August 2024
Temperature: 18 – 34 degrees
Imintji to Derby 193km’s.
Total trip kilometres: 5220
We awake at dawn and Rob makes coffee. Thankfully after a night of elevation and an ice bag rotating around my ankle, it doesn’t look too bad, swollen but not grotesquely so and the pain is reasonable so I’m hopeful it’s just a bad sprain. Still not weight bearing but I can put it down on the ground this morning.
My lack of mobility means Rob has to do all the jobs which we normally share.
What a trooper he is. Setting the van to travel inside and out including all the extra jobs inside to accommodate the rough road and helping me too. He’s always my hero but especially today. I’m so thankful we share our life together. Thank you handsome.
We set off around 9am and after about 30km we move into another range with steep hills either side. There’s a lookout with spectacular views which we pause to enjoy.
The road is rough and the next section of road is very uncomfortable for me with my leg elevated across the back seat. I do my best to distract myself with the scenery and trying to take pictures but it feels like it’s going to be a long day.
We pass into Hart Mountain range and the rocks show basalt and we start to see trees “scribbly pine” I think. They are small oddly twisted shaped trees.
MT HARTWUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGESWUNAAMIN MILIWUNDI RANGESQUEEN VICTORIA HEAD
We pass Queen Victoria Head, which oddly does look like her profile, particularly from afar and then over the Lennard River and around the bend is the Winjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek turnoff and this marks the end of the gravel! Thank goodness.
LENNARD RIVER BRIDGE
Rob pulls off and reinflated all the tyres and we continue on to Derby arriving about 1pm.
We visit the emergency department which is quiet and I’m seen shortly after by a young doctor who examines my foot and thinks it’s just sprained but wants to x-ray to be sure. The x-ray confirms his diagnosis and I’m much relieved. A sprain is manageable enough living in the van and with crutches in hand we continue on.
Stay safe, be kind to one another and love to all.
After checking every bolt and screw and taping cupboards and fridge in preparation for the gravel road to El Questro and one final chat with Kay and Cliff a lovely couple from Cowra whom we met at Mataranka and then again at Kununurra, we set off.
We follow the same road to Wyndham and 55km’s along we turn left towards Mt Barnett and onto the Gibb River Road. We stop and take the obligatory pics and we’re off again. Emma Gorge is our first stop today for a hike and a swim, a further 26 km’s.
GIBB RIVER RDROAD AHEADFLOODWAYDURACK RANGESDURACK RANGES
We cross lots of floodways and have escarpments either side. We then come to the first wet crossing at King River!
Emma Gorge
Emma Gorge is beautiful and the drive in is not too bad. We check in at reception to obtain our park pass as it’s part of El Questro and then head out to the Gorge. It’s a 3.2km return hike, moderate level 4 with some rock scrambles.
ROCK SCRAMBLE!
Despite the benevolent name I didn’t enjoy the hike. It was a rock scramble most of the way which is not my favourite thing.
I didn’t take poles and got about 9/10’s of the way before I gave up. It got the better of me!
Maybe I am a bit tired after the last few busy days but I decided the best thing for me was to sit in a shady spot by a burbling pool and enjoy the space rather than pushing any further.
MY REFLECTION POOLEMMA GORGE WALLS
It’s hard to write this as I don’t give up easily but these days I’m better at listening to my gut which is why I chose to stop. I encouraged Rob to continue on and he did and had a lovely swim. These are his pictures of Emma Gorge.
EMMA GORGE
I still had to trek all the way out again and thankful did so with no harm. While I was sitting I saw three people fall, a teenager and two women. In my opinion it should not be listed as a moderate hike and I said so on All Trails!
We continue on to El Questro. We turn off the bitumen for our first section of gravel road this section of the trip and stop to let the tyres down.
We have 16km’s of gravel and it’s not too bad! Two wet crossing too.
We arrive and check in. We are here for three nights and will have to move sites after the first night. It’s a big space and I was hoping this would be sorted from when we booked but oh well! The first nights site is not great, sloping both ways but our neighbours are a nice couple. We make camp, then go for a walk and find happy hour at the Swing Bar!
THINGS TO DOSWING BAR
Friday 2 August 2024
Temperatures: 16 – 33
We both opt for a slow day today. So after a sleep in, a nice breakfast we move the van. A much nicer spot, flat with more room. After resetting we spend the morning going for a walk and then I catchup the blog and Rob does some forward planning, we have lunch, a nap, and then we have another walks around the park, shower, then head to happy hour and an early dinner at the Steakhouse. a lovely relaxing day
Saturday 3 August 2024
Temperature: 16 – 34 degrees
Zebedee Springs
Today we are up early, about 5:30am and are out before 7:00am.
Off to Zebedee springs for a dip. Zebedee is about half way back down the track to the Highway and is a short hike, 600m return from the Carpark. Grade 2
It’s a beautiful spring, tropical, warm and the water is clear. There are palm trees in the water and rocks and after about 20mins we discover leeches. A lady we are chatting to nearby suddenly grabs her foot and pulls off a small leach about 3cm.
She is horrified and leaves.
I’m not as phased and remain in the spring as while longer and thankfully neither Rob nor I have the pleasure of meeting any leeches!
One the way back to El Questro I take a video of the Pentecost’s River crossing! Hope it loads for you.
After yesterday’s experience at Emma Gorge, I’m reluctant to challenge Amalia Gorge, a grade 5 walk so Rob goes alone and I stay behind and do some cooking. I bake a loaf of bread and some raspberry friands and start a lentil salad for dinner.
Amalia Gorge
Rob enjoys his hike to Amalia Gorge, 3.5km, moderate, grade 5 walk which includes two pools, lots of rock scrambling and includes a chain rock climb! He finds a fellow traveler to take some pictures of his swim.
Location: Kununurra, Mitchell Falls , Wyndham, Lake Argyll, The Bungle Bungles
Region: Kimberley NT
Dates: 29 July – 31 August 2024
Temperatures: 16 – 34
Monday 29 July 2024
After such a hectic day yesterday with our Whistle stop tour of Wyndham, Monday starts a wee bit slower. Rob starts working on the van step which has sheared off, so he’s off to the hardware for brackets and bolts to try and repair while I catch up on some blog posts. It’s lovely and warm and there is a breeze from Lake Kununurra and with a cup of tea in hand what more could you ask for.
WORKINGWRITING
In the afternoon we go and visit Hoocheys so that Rob can do a rum tasting. It’s the oldest “legal” distillery in WA. He deserves a fun afternoon after all his hard work on the step this morning, which is now back in working order. What a handy man he is.
After I drive us back from the distillery, we take a nice relaxing walk around the park, visiting the avery to see the Gouldian Finches: such colourful little birds, and the parks Boab tree before heading to the waterfront. We finish the day with a relaxing meal and some TV
GOULDIAN FINCHBOABLAKE KUNUNURRA
Tuesday 30 July 2024
Mitchell Falls Coastal Adventure
Temperatures: 18 – 32
We spend the morning with me cleaning the inside of the van and washing and Rob checking every screw in the van in preparation for The Gibb, before we get ready for the first of our Tours.
We are picked up and driven to the airport at 11:15am and after being weighed and checked in our pilot James collects us and takes us to the plane. There is just us two and a third, a lady named Cathy from NZ and we are flying in a four seat Cessna 210N.
OUR FLIGHT PATHCESNA 210 NREADY TO GO
The route takes us across Kununurra and its farmlands then straight across country to Ngamoowalem Conservation park towards Durack and then Drysdale River National Park.
KUNUNURRA FARMLANDORD RIVERDRYSDALE NATIONAL PARK
We see the road to Kalamburu off The Gibb River road and some local seasonal fire management before we arrive at Mitchell falls which we circle in a figure 8 several times before landing on nearby Mitchell plateau. The falls are a sight to behold.
KALUMBURU ROADFIRE MGTMITCHELL FALLS AND PLATEAU
Apparently you can swim in the upper pool of the falls but not the bottom due to salties.
We have a 30 minute break while the pilot refuels and some light refreshments; mango cake and juice while we wait. Cathy our NZ guest has been air sick all the way out unfortunately so she’s not feeling great.
We take off again on the next leg, up and around the Kimberley coastline. The scenery is amazing and this is the absolute best way to see the vast area of the Kimberley.
We pass over the Lawley River National Park and see all the creeks shooting off. It reminds me of a brain!
LAWLEY RIVER NATIONAL PARK
Next we fly over North Kimberley Marine Park and along the coast and to the mouth of the Drysdale River.
KIMBERLY MARINE PARK
As we start to turn South East towards Kununurra we pass over King George Falls, not really flowing at this time of year but still spectacular with the River leading up into the gorge to the falls! So beautiful and there is a yacht parked just under the falls. Wow!
KING GEORGE FALLS
Next we fly along the coastline towards Berkeley River lodge, the most Northern remote resort, across an area known as Oombulgurri. The pilot says we may see sharks, rays, turtles or crocs and he is flying low but I can’t pick anything out. The coastline is stunning however and I take way too many pictures.
BERKELEY LODGE
From here we fly across Lacrosse Island and then into the Cambridge Gulf passing over Adolphus Island and Wyndham before heading back to Kununurra.
CAMBRIDGE GULF AND ORD RIVER
We swoop back into Kununurra crossing the Ord one more time. Poor Cathy has unfortunately been sick the whole way so I quickly exchange details with her so I can send her some of my photos.
Rob and I had a wonderful time. A little bumpy over the thermals at times but wow her what a thrilling afternoon.
Wednesday 31 July 2024
Bungle Bungle Tour
Big day today. We are out for day being collected at 8:15 for our flight South over lake Argyle and to the Bungle Bungles where we will hop on a bus tour for the day including a hike into the Bungles!
We are in a bigger plane; a Cessna Caravan this time, with 13 guests in total and our pilot is Dan. Rob and I get the bench seat right at the back so have lots of leg room.
Our flight path today takes the opposite of yesterday and we soon fly over Kimberleyland Caravan park where we are staying; see if you can find the wee beastie in the photo, before following the Ord or Lake Kununurra as it’s known at this stage because it is dammed at both ends and holds a continuous level of water; to one centimeter. We then cross over farmland, including of all things Cotton!
Kununurra means black soil by the way. And there is so much water out here it’s mind boggling.
We are in a bigger plane and we soon jump over a range and see the amazing Lake Argyle stretching before us. 67km long one way and 10km across the other, it holds 18 times the water of Sydney Harbour, around 10,763 gigalitres and due to this is classified as an inland sea with the same maritime regulations!
CROCODILE ISLAND – CAN YOU SEE IT?LAKE ARGYLE
We soon cross over the amazing wave like formations of the Osborne Ranges. An absolute marvel and I see a circular area at the end and I wonder if maybe they are due to a long ago meteor hitting the earth?
OSBORNE RANGES
Our pilot informs us that we have cross into Purnululu National Park (pronounced Burnululu)and that the Bungle Bungles are just ahead and soon enough there they are. A breathtaking sight in their unusualness.
BUNGLE BUNGLES
Interestingly they were only discovered in 1982 by two film makers making a documentary about outback WA. They heard word of some unusual rocks to be seen so hired chopper pilots to take them there. These formations are unusual as they are sandstone underneath and the crusted striating colours come from rust and Cyanobacteria which creates the green in the wet and black in the dry. The crust is very thin and takes years to develop so they are quite delicate and they are white underneath.
In the late 80’s the Bungle Bungles along with Shark Bay in WA were listed under UNESCO. Interesting that the Bungle Bungles and the Stromatolites found in Shark Bay are both formed from Cyanobacteria.
After circling around the Bungle Bungles for a bit we land, then having morning tea; butter cakes, tea and coffee, before jumping on our bus. Our tour guides Mardi and Nigel will look after us today.
The bus ride is about 25 minutes and we stop for photo opportunities a couple of time before arriving at The Domes where we will do a walk to Cathedral Gorge.
MARDI EXPLAINING OUR WALK
We set off, stopping periodically as Mardi talks about the landscape.
THIN CRUSTSANDSTONE UNDERNEATH PICKANINNY GORGECREEK BEDPICKANINNY HOLESGORGE OTHER DIRECTION
As we walk I smell a burnt caramel smell and soon after Mardi mentions it and explains it’s the sticky sap from the spinifex grass growing everywhere. The sap has medicinal properties and can be used to close wounds and provides antibacterial properties that promote healing.
As we head into Cathedral Gorge, Mardi pulls us off onto a ledge and in a hushed voice quietly tells us this is a place of initiation and then points up and we see some rock art.
PLACE OF INITIATIONWOOMERASCATHEDRAL GORGE
It about 10degrees cooler in the cathedral and you can see why it’s so named with the cavernous ceiling arching above. The pool is sacred and must not be stepped in or drank from according to cultural lore from the Djaru and Gija tribes that use these lands.
Rob and I walk around the pool to the rocks at the back for our lunch break.
It’s very peaceful and a good place for quiet reflection as we enjoy our meal.
LUNCH
After lunch we make our way out of the cool of the cathedral and back into the Gorge, heading back the way we came. On the bus we head back to Bellburn airstrip to drop four people off for helicopter flights before we make our way to Savannah lodge for afternoon tea of fruit and cake.
Once back at Bellburn we’re herded back onto the plane and are soon in the air. Our return flight takes us over the Northern part of the Bungles and Pickaninny Gorge. A grade 6 multi day hike.
We then fly over the Osborne ranges again and then the now defunct Argyle Diamond mine.
As we head into Kununurra the pilot swoops around to land over the Ord River and I take the photo below and then as I look down I swear I see a big crocodile in the water!!!
All in all it’s been a fascinating few days and a privilege to see so much of this unique part of the world.
A big thank you to my darling Rob whose idea it was that we take these tours.
Tomorrow we leave Kununurra and head to Mt Barnett via the Gibb River Road. our off road adventure begins.
Katherine to Saddle Rest Stop 339 km’s (100 East of Kununurra).
Total Trip kilometre’s: 4144
Temp 19 – 31 overcast, some showers
We set off about 9am with a longish day driving. Not far out of Katherine on the Victoria Highway west we pass several convoys of army vehicles.
The landscape is dry with sparse trees and termite mounds. I look up and see a Bustard right on the side of the road, on the left! Darn missed getting a picture. He was a big one too. Not long after on the other side of the road I see two more. Missed again!
As we approach Judbarra NP it starts to drizzle and we see puddles in the roadside. The air becomes sweetly scented by the native grassland, trees and a hint of ozone. Escarpments rise majestically as we come into Victoria River and the views are breathtaking beautiful. The teasing rain bringing the outback colours of ochre, russet, yellow and green to life and we start to see lots of Boab trees
We cross the Victoria River Bridge and stop at the Roadhouse to admire the ranges around us.
We continue on as we have for another 100kms or so to our camp for the night, Saddle Rest stop
We stop again just past Victoria River as the landscape is one escarpment after another and the views are non stop. The dry land has returned to grassland with many trees small and tall and some of the Boab trees are double, some triple with the girth of a small silo and the Victoria River is beside us on the right.
The rest stop when we arrive is nearly full but we fortunately find a spot and our backdrop is yet another towering escarpment.
SADDLE REST STOP
Rob gets out the Starlink to watch the Lions v Gold Coast in the second Q Clash for the season and I bake a loaf of bread and some sourdough crackers while we watch the game. A win for the Lions 🦁 yay! Eighth in a row I think?
Dinner is a pasta and salad as I use up the last of our fresh vegetables before the border crossing tomorrow.
Sunday 28 July 2024
Saddle to Kununurra 110 km’s
Total trip km’s: 4154
Temperature: 16 – 28
A hot night, eventually cooling with a breeze around 4:30am and we wake up to a cool drizzle gray morning. Not what I expected for up here.
We have a leisurely start with coffee, bacon and eggs before doing a final check on all things fruit and vegetables and I find a packet of slightly dried “fresh” basil hiding in the fridge. Darn I could have used that last night in the pasta sauce! Oh well.
We set off and the escarpment we were parked under continues for some way and morning showers again bring all the colours to life.
We cross into WA and the border quarantine check is quick and easy.
The only thing I didn’t think about was some frozen Thyme in the freezer which is a no no due to the woody stem. The officer appreciates my efforts though so no fine thankfully and then she offers us an extra 1.5hours today due to the time change!
Our first views on Kununurra are a Croc Wise sign and then a wetland as we come into town
We are staying in Kununurra for four nights as Rob has organise two tours, one to Mitchell Falls and a second to the Bungle Bungles. We check in, then do groceries and return and set up the van and as it’s still not quite midday decide to drive to Wyndham, another 200km’s there and back for the afternoon.
Wyndham is a port town in the gulf and the juncture of five rivers and we are told well worth a visit.
Molly Springs
22km from Kununurra towards Wyndham and down a rough 3km track is a lovely spot to swim with a little waterfall. Rob swims then gets out to take photos and moments after I get out of the water a fellow in the water start screaming “snake in the water”! Rob manages to get a photo when it clears the water at the tree just behind me in the third photo below and it looks like a brown!
Oh the fun of the outback!
MOLLY SPRINGS
We continue on and our next stop is The Grotto, a waterhole surrounded by 80m vertical cliffs. It has 140 stone and concrete steps you can take down to view it and of course we do. Imagining all the while what it would look like with waterfalls around all sides during the wet.
The Grotto
THE GROTTO
Back in the car, Rob and I both find an odd similarity in the landscape with Scotland! The road undulates through soaring hills that are sparse and dry, similar to some of the valleys we passed through in Scotland on the West 500 in 2019. The difference is the lack of wet green that you see in Scotland but it’s still eerily familar?
Maggie’s Valley
Approaching Wyndham we come around a bend and into a stunning Valley known as Maggie’s Valley. I can see why she loved it here so much.
The Big Croc
We arrive Wyndham and find the big croc! What a beauty!
The Big Boab
This tree is over 2000 years old!
Wyndham Port
Our next stop is Wyndham Port. Gazetted in 1886 the port serviced the cattle industry and gold prospectors and at one point was home to the biggest abattoir in the Southern Hemisphere at the time.
Five Rivers Lookout
Our next and last stop on our whistle stop tour of Wyndham today is the Five Rivers Lookout and a must see if you visit the area. The lookout is high with nearly 360 degree views of the surrounding area and it’s stunning with views over the Ord, Durack, Forrest, King and Pentecost Rivers.
FIVE RIVERS LOOKOUT
A great place for sunset but very overcast today.
Wow we have had a busy weekend and we are both delighted by what we’ve seen so far of the Kimberley and we are both looking forward to our tours this week very much.
We hope you all had a good weekend too. Stay safe and take care of each other.
We are due in Katherine by 2pm, booked in at the Discovery Park so we decide to visit Mataranka homestead for a morning swim before setting off.
At Mataranka homestead there is a replica of the old homestead used in the 1982 film, We Of The Never Never based on the life and book by Jeannie Gunn who lived in the region in the early 1900’s which we visit.
WE OF THE NEVER NEVER
We then enjoy our walk through the trees and our swim and an early lunch of Barra burgers before saying goodbye to Mataranka and traveling on to Katherine.
BYE BYE MATARANKA
The weather has continued to warm as we’ve moved North and by the time we reach Katherine the day is very warm. We set up our camp and take a dip in the very new resort pool. It’s very cold compared to the springs this morning.
Wednesday 24 July 2024
Katherine NT
Temperature: 18 – 32, hot, sunny
Today we visit the Katherine Springs. These springs are separated at each end of the current by barriers but there are still signs regarding fresh water crocodiles. The water is warm but not as hot as the 34 degree springs at Mataranka. Our dip is very refreshing and there is a small fall at one end that Rob playfully takes a swim over. He’s a big kid at heart. ❤️
KATHERINE SPRINGS
On the way back to the park we shop for a few groceries and I spend the afternoon starting to sort food for the NT/WA quarantine border crossing.
I pickle some of Hazel’s lovely daikon radish and carrot and start a new sourdough loaf while catching up on washing.
CAMP DINNERPICKLES & SOURDOUGH
Thursday 25 July 2024
Temperature: 24 – 33, hot humid
Butterfly Gorge Hike
Rob has found a nice hike, about 12km out to the 3rd Gorge on the Katherine River and you can swim so we set off early around 8:30am.
The hike is out and back in the Nitmiluk National Park which is about 20km from our park and part of the Baruwei Loop/Gurumal Trail a moderate rated trail.
BUTTERFLY GORGE MAP
The first 4 kilometres of the track essentially follow a fire trail from the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre. The track has a total elevation of 200m is very rocky, even slippery with loose shale at times, there are few patches of shade and we go up and down several times as we walk along the escarpment.
As we approach the next section of the trail we see a sign explaining where we are and from here the track gets very narrow and rocky, goes up again before going down into the gorge proper and as we head down we start to see lots of butterflies.
BUTTERFLY GORGE
The last section is a rocky scramble leading to a very narrow shelf above the river from which you can swim. When we arrive there are 3 others already there.
We remove our boots and I scramble to put my feet in and Rob gets ready for a dip.
DIPPING MY TOESROB IN THE GORGEOUR LEDGE
The views down the Gorge are amazing, we see people kayaking and I spot a turtle. It’s an amazingly beautiful spot. Well worth the hard walk to get here.
We find out the next day on our dinner cruise that this part of the Gorge is the deepest at 35metres and gets deeper each wet season due to a large whirlpool that develops here, causing the rocks to swirl and gouge the bottom further. We also find out this is a popular area for fish and crocs due to the depth!
VIEW DOWN THE GORGETURTLE
We spend about an hour before heading back. The day only gets hotter so it’s a tough walk back and we refill our water bottles several times at available rainwater tanks along the way! Thank you very much.
We deviate onto the Jadalep loop so that we can visit the Baruwei lookout extending the walk by about 2km to 14km.
Today we are doing two side trips. The first is a hike and swim at Edith Falls. Still in Nitmiluk National Park but 80 kilometres North of Katherine.
We set off around 8.30am, drive 60km North then turn right at the sign for Edith Falls and drive another 20km’s to arrive around 9:30. The National Park has a car park, kiosk and toilet.
The walk is a 3.9km circuit and we decide to walk anticlockwise. The walk has an elevation of 100m and the first part takes us past the bottom waterhole with a waterfall.
So spectacular!
LOWER POOL
The track then curves around to the left and becomes a rocky switchback straight up, followed by a scrambled rocky track for about 2km’s. There are very obvious signs of recent fire and I wonder if it’s management fire or from the NT fire last year? It’s hot today and I quickly become parched amongst the dry and blackened landscape.
We detour to Bermang Lookout for our first view of the upper pool. From here the waterfall is directly beneath us.
UPPER POOL AND EDITH FALLS
Another 500 metres of rock scramble which only gets worse and I begin to wonder how they graded this a moderate track? Reward looms though, as after a final rock scramble down we arrive.
There is a deep pool to swim across and we find a path across rocks to the falls, then a swim past them and around a pile of rock in the middle with a slight current that takes you over some slippery rocks and back around to the main pool! WOW!
EDITH FALLS
After a truly delightful swim we reluctantly dry off and put the boots back on for the walk back. Highly recommend you visit Edith Falls if you are in the NT. There is a camp so if you go to Darwin be sure to deviate that 20km’s off the highway. You won’t regret it.
On the way back on the outskirts of Katherine we see a flock of red tailed black cockatoo’s. Always a favourite.
Once back at the van we hop into some jobs, Rob maintenance on the water hose and starting to repair our step which has sheared away and I on food prep for the border crossing.
Katherine Gorge Dinner Cruise
After getting back to the van we both hop into some chores, Rob on van maintenance and I on food prep. I make a big batch of ratatouille, roast two sweet potato and some garlic and bake some sourdough crackers. It’s hot work so getting ready and showering for our dinner cruise tonight is welcome. We are both looking forward to the cruise very much.
The cruise is full, about 40 people I calculate and goes for about 3.5 hours and we have two boat changes ahead as we make our way up the gorge.
We set off and within minutes our pilot tells us to look towards the bank! There’s a freshie! A freshwater crocodile!
And on the opposite bank is a trap for a saltie! A saltwater crocodile… he assures as there aren’t any but there was last April. Apparently they investigate for six weeks after every wet season before opening (parts) of the Gorge for swimming.
The Katherine Gorge is stunning and everyone on board is mesmerized with its beauty and the witty commentary from our pilot.
And then there’s another freshie!
We continue up the Gorge to our first stop, where we need to disembark and walk up the Gorge to the next boat. As the dry season progresses the water level in the Gorge drops and the Gorge is separated into sections.
We disembark and there is rock art and towering cliffs to admire and a beautiful walk up the Gorge. The colours are amazing.
As we walk we chat to other guests, a young couple from France, an older couple from Germany and fellow Aussies too. We come to a wide plateau of rock that stretches out into the middle of the Gorge and it’s a great spot for photos.
Our second boat takes us up past Jedda’s rock and our pilot tells how the stone here is so old; 65 million year, that it contains no record of life, no fossils, nada.
The sun is starting to sink as we turn into the second Gorge and the colours and reflections are just so lovely.
We come to the third Gorge, our Butterfly Gorge from our walk the day before. You can see the ledge on the bottom right.
From here we turn back and retrace our steps. When we swaps boats the second time, it’s set for dinner and we enjoy a lovely three course dinner of local delicacies including crocodile, barramundi, eye fillet and mud cake for dessert with flavour’s of the top end, including Wattle Seed, Kakadu Plum and Lemon Myrtle.
Our dinner companions Matt and Amanda from Victoria are wonderful company and it is a very enjoyable evening.
Locations: Longreach, Winton, Kynuna, Cloncurry, Mary Kathleen
Regions: Outback Qld, Barkly Tableland NT
Temperature: 7 – 25 degrees
Longreach to Winton
Saturday 13 July 2024, 180 kilometres
Total trip kilometres 1460
Temp: 7 – 23 cool morning, sunny
We are heading to Winton today but first up we attend to a bit of washing and cleaning in the van and getting it set to go. We keep a big 20 litre bucket under the van for waste water drips and while here we’ve had the waste water pipe out also and as Rob goes to pack it all away he finds 3 dead rats, drowned in the bucket!
Our last post mentioned the rat problem in the Outback at present and this is definitely one of the not so nice sides to camping. We think they crawled up the pipe and either fell or jumped in and then couldn’t get out.
DROWNED DEAD RATS!
After setting the van we head into town as the CWA have showers for a donation and there’s also a market from 9 – 12pm.
We meet Gwen at the CWA, she is 90 and volunteers 1 day a week to different aspects of the CWA. Today she’s looking after the showers and she has made scones.
We enjoy a quick shower then spend about half an hour enjoying Gwen’s company, her scones with jam and cream and a cup of tea. Gwen tells about her time as president, traveling the Longreach district and all about the Lake Dunn Sculpture trail. The Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail is a 200 kilometre circuit that loops between Aramac, Lake Dunn and Jericho. Along its route you’ll find 40 sculptural installations showcasing Outback elements and life, from emu families to jackaroos. Not for us this trip but something to consider if your headed out this way. Sounds awesome!
We head back to the van and are on the road by about 11am.
We arrive Winton mid afternoon and after setting up at our camp, meet our neighbouring travellers who advise there are rats here too unfortunately, more on that later…
We then head into town to see the Opal Festival. Unfortunately though we are latecomers and most of the stall holders have packed up. One fellow shows me a few samples of Boulder Opal though and they are entrancing. The red, green, gold and blue colours dance as if alive amidst the stone and I briefly wish I was in the market.
We then head out to the musical fence, a whimsical collection of metal objects and a fence that can be used to make music if you’re talented enough. We do have a go but neither of us strikes a chord. Nearby is a nod to the QANTAS history.
Back into town and we walk the Main Street and it’s charming with its beautiful old pubs and the Waltzing Matilda museum with the statue of Banjo Paterson out front. Across the road there is another statue of the swagman from his most famous poem, written not very far from Winton.
We visit Arno’s wall with its collection of everything engineering and then visit the Australian Hotel for Happy Hour and are lucky enough to catch bush poet Gregory North right before he recites that most famous poem – The Man from Snowy River and other famous works by Banjo Paterson including the story of the writing of Waltzing Matilda.
We return to the van just in time for another gorgeous sunset and after dinner we catch up with our neighbours Cheryl and Doug for a drink around their campfire.
Rob had booked our Age of Dinosaurs tour for 10:30 so we leave the van around 9:30 as it’s 24 kilometre’s from Winton back towards Longreach and we also camped about 5 kilometres out of Winton on the Jundah road.
The age of dinosaurs site is in the Blandenburg National park high up on an escarpment. After the turn off the A2 highway we see a flock of whistling kites and then two Wedgetail eagles tussling over some small prey. Maybe a rat!
The Age of Dinosaurs is a great place to visit. Everything from the lab; didn’t know you can volunteer and get training to work on dinosaur bones, to the collection room and March of the Titanosaurs it is a must see.
THE LABCOLLECTION ROOMMARCH OF THE TITANOSAURSHE IS BIGMOON SCULPTURE
On the way back we see a flock of emus and we take a picture of the Winton sign, there is a bolt behind the “I” which allows you to replace the I. Thought that was very cool and fun too.
EMUSWE ARE THE “I”
Monday 15 July2024
Winton to Cloncurry 440 km’s
Total Km’s 1938 including side trips.
Mary Kathleen (West of Cloncurry) to Mt Isa 65 km then on to Camooweal 180km
Temp 7 – 22, cool morning, sunny
Pass Ayrshire Creek, a series of plateaus.
AYRSHIRE CREEK
100km’s from Winton we see a tabby cat trying to cross the road and then a while later I see a black cat off to the side of the road with a huge monitor lizard less than a metre away. It’s a strange sight and I wonder if one is stalking the other? I also see another Australian Bustard standing alone in the grass.
We stop at Kynuna Roadhouse for a break around lunch and munch on sandwiches while watching four Brolgas casually strolling around.
Continuing on the highway we see several large flocks of kites, wheeling and circling on thermals above the highway usually over fresh road kill.
We pass through McKinnon and the Walkabout Creek Hotel, made famous by the movie “Crocodile Dundee”
Our camp for the night is at Mary Kathleen an abandoned and dismantled town 60 km South of Mt Isa, West of Cloncurry.
MARY KATHLEENOUR CAMPTHESTORYSUNSET MARY KATHLEEN
Tuesday 15 July 2024
Total trip km’s 2191
Temp 5 to 20 sunny
We drive into Mt Isa, 60km’s enjoying the hilly scenery on the way in.
We shop for groceries at the local Coles, visit the pharmacy and then have a pub lunch at the Mt Isa Hotel. Rob has a steak and I have a Korean poke bowl. The meals are very nice.
We then walk back through the town then visit the Caravan dump point and fill the water tanks.
We continue on, thinking to either stop at a WWII camp site 60kms out of Mt Isa or further on at Camooweal. 180km’s away.
The landscape begins to resemble an ocean of dry tufted grasses moving with the wind and it feels a bit like being ship in an inland sea. Smalltrees dot the horizon which shimmers in the afternoon sun.
The WWII memorial mentions the building of the Barkley Highway; previously just a dirt road, during WWII as part of the defensive effort to protect Northern Australia. The camp is just off the highway and already well occupied. It’s just before 3pm so we decide to continue on.
We arrive Camooweal around 5pm and camp literally on the Georgina River creek-bed. It’s a beautiful spot with lots of birds either side of the bridge resting on the riverbanks and the sunset is amazing.
CAMP IN THE RIVERBEDGEORGINA RIVER
I make a quick spiced pumpkin soup for our dinner and I relax in bed enjoying the Masterchef finale (no spoilers here) while Rob reads in frustration about the AFL Tribunal findings against Charlie Cameron. The consensus online is that it’s a rubbish decision and once again very Melbourne Centric!
The cold I started a few days ago is gaining momentum so it’s an early night.
Wednesday 16 July 2024
Camooweal to Barkly Homestead NT 260 km’s
Total trip km’s 2455
Temperature: 5 – 20, very cool start, sunny and a stiff breeze
After starting a loaf and making some discard sourdough cracker dough to bake later we set down and head off. My head cold is now raging and I have a roaring head and face ache which is a bit disappointing as it’s the SOO (State of Origin) decider tonight, our NRL ( National Rugby League) annual contest between NSW and QLD.
We set off and about 30km’s down the Barkly Highway we cross into the NT.
Over the border the landscape on both sides of the highway flattens to a sea of never ending sea of spinifex.
Another 80km’s on we pass Avon Downs station on the left and the Avon Police station on the right. There is no fuel or service here so no reason to stop.
The rest area just before the station has the stories of Thomas Guthrie’s establishment in 1882 and one of the longest sheep droving routes in Australia from Donald, Victoria to Avon downs, Northern Territory, 16 months and 3500 kilometres starting with 11,000 sheep and arriving with 4000! There’s more on this driving at the Stockman’s Hall of fame.
Another 60 or so km’s we pass Soudan Station and see Stockman preparing cattle for transport. We’ve seen many of these road trains with four, sometimes five carriages.
STOCK MUSTERREADY TO TRANSPORT
Next up and closer to Barkly Homestead we pass a wetland. Full of birdlife and the landscape is now peppered with Termite mounds. The are everywhere! Some as large as cars.
WETLAND
We arrive Barkly Homestead about 1:30 (1:00 NT time) and after set down we both shower which perks me up no end. Theres’s just something so relaxing; for me anyway, about having my head under water.
BARKLY HOMESTEAD
My cold is raging though so after lunch and a load of washing. I rest for a bit. We then go to happy hour and I catch up on the phone with my daughter Carly, always a treat. Then it’s another rest before a late dinner and SOO Final.
The mood is festive and there are many people dress in Blue and Maroon. About equal which I’m very pleased about. I set up chats with fellow Blues supporters Grant in Qld and Heather in NSW and Rob does the same with fellow Qldr Michael and his daughter Kat. The rivalry and banter is fun.
The game is a cracker with great defense from both sides and only a penalty goal to Qld right before the end of the first half. There’s a bit of biff and Rob I playfully argue about which side started it. Qld of course haha!
We enjoy our meal during half time, a Barkly burger for Rob and Calamari and salad with chips for me.
The second half continues to be a tussle but Qld starts to show signs of fatigue and NSW takes the lead with a try and then another with a conversion. NSW win the match hurrah!
We finish the night chatting to two NSW supporters sitting behind us and then talk turns to travel plans.
All in all a great night and the Barkly Homestead is a great place to visit if you’re travelling the great Outback. Be sure not to miss it. I have many memories of visits here when I lived at Tennant Creek during the late 80’s so it’s great to see that it’s bigger, better and thriving.
On to Tennant Creek tomorrow. Should be a blast from the past. Love to all. Stay safe and warm!
Regions: Darling Downs South West, Central and Northwest.
Temperature: 7 – 26 degrees
Trip A on the odometer is set to zero in the Isuzu. We have lightened the van load and checked everything in preparation for the journey ahead.
In the next two weeks we will be crossing regional and outback Queensland, diagonally almost, as we head for Mt Isa via Charleville and Longreach.
Monday 8 Jul 2024
Comminya to Muckadilla 470kms
Temp 7 – 21 degrees currently 17 degrees and sunny with showers earlier.
Two Roos practice boxing in the nearby paddock in the early morning light as we prepare to head off
The day warm’s and the farms around Coominya look moist and brown with new crops springing up a verdant green against the rich black soil, moist from recent rain. I’m sure the farmers will be grateful of the recent winter rains.
ROOS BOXING – COOMINYA
We travel West through Dalby, Chinchilla and Miles. As we pass through Miles we see the big Watermelon!
THE BIG WATERMELON – MILES
West of Miles we leave the Western Downs region and enter Maranoa region with a welcome sign to Outback Queensland.
A longish day on the road with stops at Dalby, Chinchilla, Miles and Roma.
We park up at the Muckadilla camp; west of Roma with toilets and hot showers for a donation.
Tuesday 9 July
Muckadilla to Augathella, 330 kms, Total trip kms – 800.
Temp 9 – 21, rainy then sunny then overcast.
Heavy rain overnight and a damp morning dawns. It’s showering so after morning stretches, coffee and breakfast and that hot shower we were looking forward to, we set to and are on the road by 8:30am. Good thing too as not long after the rain starts in ernest. Great to see the Outback getting a big drink.
We pass through Mitchell and on towards Charleville and the rain clouds break up and the day clears to sunshine which was fortunate as we planned to do the Riverwalk on the Warrego River.
We park in Alfred street, walk the Main Street and then follow signs for the Riverwalk. A lovely walk to stretch the legs and see the river and then we loop back to the van. About 3kms.
LEFT SIDE WARREGO RIVERRIGHT SIDE WARREGO RIVERYELLOW RUMPED THORNBILL?ROB WITH WELCOME TO COUNTRY SIGNALLTRAILS WALKING TRACKUNDER A UNIQUELY ARCHED TREE
Homemade salad rolls for lunch and we continue on to Augathella, our stop for the night. A great camp with near new toilet and shower facilities for a $10 donation per night and you can camp here for up to 8 nights!
AUGATHELLA FLOODSSUNSET BIG ANT COUNTRY
Wednesday 10 Jul 2024
Augathella to Barcaldine 330 kms
Total trip kms – 1130.
Temp 2.5 – 26 degrees
It’s a very chilly start but sunny and by 7:30 the sun is warm.
I set a loaf and do my stretches while Rob’s out for a run. We then have coffee and breakfast before heading to the showers. I really like rest stops with toilets and showers I must say, very civilized and a habit I would like to continue…
We see lots of vans; in fact we’ve seen more vans these past few days than we have previously. A lot of them have red dirt so probably coming from “The Big Red Bash” held out at Birdsville last week. An annual event on the Outback calendar, just like Boulia camel races, Ilfracombe horse races and Cloncurry rodeo scheduled this weekend. They had rain so it turned into “The Big Muddy bash” apparently and there are also a lot of vans going North like us. Every camp spot has been quite full too.
The land stretches out as we enter “Big Sky country” and there are a few puffy clouds. We start to see lots of Kites, most would be the Whistling Kite but perhaps a few Black Kites too.
KITEKITE ZOOMED
We pass through Tambo, famous for the “Tambo Teddy” My oldest daughter Riley received one of them as a baby from a close friend, Margaret who was born in Winton which is NW of here past Longreach.
We arrive Blackall and visit the famous “Black Stump” which has burnt down but there are two replica’s along with the story. I also spy another in the Main Street as we take a passing walk.
BLACK STUMPSTORYSTATUE OF JACKIE HOWE AUSTRALIA’S BEST SHEARER
Continuing on to Barcaldine the day starts to warm up. We arrive around 3:30 and the temp is 26 degrees. Positively Balmy!
Before heading to our free camp; no shower at this one, we visit the “Tree of Knowledge” in the centre of Barcaldine. So named for the reputed birthplace of the Labor Party!
Barcaldine has lots of interesting art along the Main Street and some Scottish history too. The name, originally Bar Call Din, was named after Barcaldine castle in Argyle by the Cameron Family and derived from Barr a challtuin or Hazel Knoll in Gaelic.
We didn’t go back to see the tree at night but apparently it’s stunning when all lit up.
Thursday 11 July
Barcaldine to Longreach 110kms
Total trip kilometres 1310
Stop at Ilfracombe and the Wellshot hotel. A Charming hotel with loads of character, from hundreds of old hats on the ceiling, including one of Lee Kernagan’s, to the barstools! (see photos) .
OLD FARTS CORNERHATS AND MONEY ON THE ROOFNOVELTY BAR STOOLSHEY COWBOY!LIADS OF HISTORYCHARMING TOWN
A great spot to stop and stretch the legs and take in the town’s rich history with many displays on the history of the town, wool scouring, ANZACS, farming equipment and old vehicles all freely available to explore along the highway.
Just outside Ilfracombe we see three of the strangest birds standing in the grass. At first glance, thought they were baby emus but the colouring and proportions were wrong. Later identified as the Australian Bustard. Photo not mine and courtesy of Australian Birdlife.org and taken by Andrew Brooks. Such an unusual looking bird and I’ve never seen one before so very cool.
AUSTRALIAN BUSTARD
Longreach Apex Park camp is busy with vans when arrive but we find a space and set down.
We were fortunate to find a potable water tap behind the van so I spend the afternoon washing, enjoying the local wildlife; brolgas no less, and meeting other campers like Bob and his pet cockatoo Laurie.
BOB AND LAURIEBOB AND LAURIE!BEAUTIFUL BROLGAS
Bob then tells us about the rats! Apparently the park has a bit of a problem and they’ve taken out four cars, just in the last few days. The little buggers get into the engines at night where it’s warm and destroy wiring and circuitry. The trick is to keep the bonnet up so the area cools and to keep a light on. Later our neighbour’s, a lovely couple; Sheryl and John from Sale in Victoria, tell us the same thing, so we follow the advice.
The sunset over the Thompson is full of colour and accompanied by a local country artist entertaining guests at the caravan park on the other side of the river. From afar he sounds a bit like slim dusty with his crooning country melodies.
THOMSON RIVERSUNSET
Later I rest and shape my dough and pop it in the fridge for its bulk prove overnight and it’s a simple pesto pasta meal for dinner.
The park has about 18 roosters roaming around, some of which are very large and yes they started crowing very early. I wonder who put them there?
APEX PARK ROOSTERS
Friday 12 July 2024
Temp 12 – 26 cool morning, sunny.
Today, after more washing; having taken advantage of the available water and with the van batteries keeping up from all the lovely sunshine, we head into town for a walk, a quick bite and then our allotted tour of the Stockman’s Hall of Fame.
Longreach is a thriving, bustling town of about 3,750 residents but likely servicing many more than that including graziers in the area. Tourists, van’s, campers and Winnebago’s are everywhere.
The town’s main Street, Eagle Street’s shops are all operating and the town is obviously well cared for.
Fun fact! All the town’s streets are named for birds. There’s Duck, Brolga, Emu, Wren and many more including Bustard!
The Stockman’s Hall of fame is well worth a visit and I’m sorry we missed the live part (not available on Fridays). The displays and history are thoughtful and informative. I continue to be amazed with the courage, strength and tenacity of our forebears. We may not have the buildings that are hundreds of years old, as the European countries have in abundance, but as we explore this wide brown country of ours I am humbled by the stories….
Imagine leaving the East Coast in a sulky (small horse drawn carriage) with a pair of horses and two young children. Imagine surviving on nothing but tea, damper and treacle for months. Imagine travelling into the unknown outback to a small parcel of land, starting from scratch. With only that which you had transported! My mind boggles.
STOCKMAN HALL OF FAMEBRILLIANT OLD PHOTOGENERAL STORE ON WHEELSREPLICA ORIGINAL HUTA JACK SAWYER PAINTING
A brilliant visit full of stories, art and artifacts. Very enjoyable.
The day finishes with another beautiful sunset and we are off to Winton tomorrow.
Temperatures: 17 – 42 degrees, hot, sunny, some cloud.
Wednesday 6 March, 17 – 38 degrees
We are up early and I quickly add starter, salt and water to my flour prepped yesterday to start a loaf. I will do stretch and folds on the road today, always challenging and this is a high hydration loaf 85% so we will see how it goes.
We are away by 8:30am but stop in Tumby Bay to dump the chemical toilet and we run into the same historian we met at Elliston. Today he suggests we take the Igloo Road (gravel) off the highway, then left onto Beach Road (nice tarmac) into Cowell with great camping points along the coast. We take his advice and enjoy the nicest drive along the coast and into Cowell which is a lovely town full of historical buildings and silo art too. I put it on the list to revisit one day if possible.
SO MUCH SEAGRASS!CAMPER ON THE BEACHOLD JETTY?COWELL SILO ART
We continue on past Whyalla and Port Augusta, only stopping to refuel and to pick up a few groceries. Rob picks up new thongs too, having lost his Archie’s changing shoes for a walk in Port Lincoln NP!
Leaving Port Augusta we turn left onto Flinders Way and almost immediately the range start to unfold in front of us on the right, reminding us both of an Albert Namatjira painting.
We stop in Quorn, a gorgeous little town 40km from Port Augusta. We need to vote in Qld local council elections by phone and we are not sure of service next week so today’s the day. It takes a while and a local shopkeeper approaches, thinking something is wrong as we pace about in the heat on our phones. Love country people and their hospitality.
QUORN MILLQUORN HOTELQUORN RAILWAY STATION
We head on to Hawker, admiring the outback scenery as we go. We stop at the pub and sit in the cool for a while admiring all the local art, with a drink before heading out to our camp for the night, 10km out and when I check my dough the first rise is significantly higher than double so I think I’ve overdone it!
1ST PROOFHAWKER PUB
Our camp is by the highway with views East and West of the amazing Flinders. Ranges.
STOP ON THE WAYVIEW WESTVIEW EASTVIEW FROM VANSUNSETDAWN
Thursday 7 March, 24 – 36 degrees
Today we heard to Wilpena Pound. It’s been a hot night and overnight I developed an ear ache. This is concerning as I have a history and can get very sick with ear infections, I had some drops on hand which I’ve used but being in the outback and heading further out leaves me uneasy.
We drive back to Hawker and then turn onto Flinders Ranges Way with about 60km to drive to Wilpena Pound.
The name comes from the Aboriginal word for cupped hands, Wilpena and Pound the English word for enclosure. With the Ranges almost fully enclosing an area.
We take it slow to stay in the cool and enjoy all the lookouts along the way.
IKARA FLINDERS RANGES NPRAWNSLEY BLUFF
We arrive, set up and I rest in the aircon of the van on a powered site. We had planned to do some hikes but with the heat (38 at 1:50pm) and my ear that’s probably not going to happen. Rob will likely do some early hikes though.
Later we go to the pool, then stay to experience the welcome to country ceremony from a local Adnyamathanha man which is fascinating and full of history.
Friday 8 March, 24 – 42 degrees
After a bad night with my ear it’s back to Hawker we go and most of the day is taken up with seeing a doctor then getting scripts filled. I missed the cut off but Rachel the pharmacist phoned the scripts through to Quorn for filling and they were due back at 3pm. Unfortunately only half of the antibiotics were supplied but I’m hopeful that will be enough. Back to Wilpena and to bed for me. Rob goes for a swim and a late afternoon walk.
Saturday 9 March 24 – 42 degrees
Rob suggests we drive the loop through two gorges, essentially cutting through Wilpena Pound to the Outback Highway then down the highway to the Moralana Way and back across to the Flinders Ranges Way, about 100km’s.
We set out about 10am.
We head up Flinders way toward Blinman then turn left towards Bunyeroo Gorge. The drive is a postcard at every turn. We see lots of Wedgies, three, then a group of ten or more, the most I’ve ever seen together but too high to photograph, the Cazneaux Tree and a hikers hut on the Heysen Trail.
ST MARY’S PEAKCAZNEAUX TREEHEYSEN TRAIL HUT
The drive meanders through and across many creek beds and we wonder what it’s like when it rains!
Next up is Razorback lookout taking in St Mary’s Peak; the highest peak in the ranges. The scenery is amazing, raw and wild.
RAZORBACK LOOKOUT
Continuing on we pass into Brachinya Gorge, and the road gets even tougher, through many creek beds and rock formations. At one point I spy what I think is a Yellow footed Rock Wallaby sheltering in the heat in a small cave.
YELLOW FOOTED ROCK WALLABY?
Coming out of Brachinya, there is a very rough gravel road back the highway, then we turn left again and it’s 30km of highway past spectacular ranges before turning left again through the Moralana Way.
Once back at Wilpena I rest up for the afternoon and evening while Rob goes for a swim and I hope for a better night.
Sunday 10 March, 24 – 38 Degrees
A very quiet day. I catch up on washing and continue to take it easy, hoping the antibiotics will kick in. It’s unpleasant as my ear is blocked so I can’t hear, constant headache and discomfort. I’ve had worse though so it’s bearable.
Monday 11 March, 23 – 35 degrees
We leave Wilpena today, heading for Leigh Creek overnight before heading to Arkaroola on Tuesday. We decide to travel back to Hawker then up the highway, rather than out to Blinman and through the gorges on gravel. After our loop we are not sure how tough this would be so opt for the longer route on bitumen.
The heat is relentless and another rough night for me so it’s nice to be in the car…
OLD RUINSFAMILY EMUSFROM LOOKOUTPARACHILNA
We check out our overnight stay, just 5 kms south of Leigh Creek. Lovely view then head into Leigh Creek then Copley pub 5 kms on for dinner. The owner has two very spunky Staffy puppies which she brings out and the TBone and Fish n Chips were brilliant! Friendly and thought service.
Leaving Port Lincoln today, we have just a short drive up the East side of the Eyre Peninsula to Tumby Bay, about 50km.
We take the Redcliffe road off the Lincoln Highway about 20kms from Tumby Bay and 15km of gravel road to the Redcliffe camp, not too bad. Our campsite is right on the waters edge and we look forward to the waves sending us to sleep later.
On the way in we pass a charming old farmhouse set amidst dry fields. It reminds me of a similar house I saw in Scotland. So different but somehow similar? What do you think?
VIEW FROM VANREDCLIFFEFARMHOUSE NEARBYSCOTTISH FARMHOUSE
After setup we drive into Tumby Bay and explore. Tumby is a charming town with an excellent RV stop in town opposite the old jetty. The foreshore is lined with Pine Trees and the town has street art and silo art. The area has a marina and is known for fishing and beautiful beaches.
We visit the bakery which looks busy; always a good sign and I order two pies, plan for me, pepper steak for Rob.
The girl serving starts the order then turns to me and says the top on the plain pie has come off, I can have it for free or I can choose another. I say top off is ok, thank you. In all my years eating pies I’ve never heard of this and neither had Rob? The pie was nice, a little hard to eat as the top kept moving but that’s okay. 👍
TUMBY FORESHORETUMBY PUBSILO ART
Tuesday 5 March, 15 - 32 degrees sunny with showers
We decided to stay an extra day at Redcliffe camp. It’s so lovely to be right on the beach and the morning is sunny with just a breeze and we don’t have to be up at Wilpena Pound until Thursday so it will just mean a longer drive tomorrow.
Rob has an early swim and we otherwise have a quiet day so I feed my starter and spend the morning catching up on my blog, making muesli bars and chatting to my friend Liz in Brisbane for a while.
MUESLI SLICE
About lunchtime a shower comes across and we sit under our awning enjoying the sprinkle and watching how the sea changes colours.
RAIN SHOWERSUN SHOWERGEESE
Afterwards we walk around the beach to the point. We see sea snails, starfish, a dead baby Ray and lots of birds.
We also see two hooded plovers on the beach. These birds are protected in this area.
We also see Pacific Gulls on the rocks and on the vegetation. They seem to be eating red berries found along the coast here. I research but can find no reference for this behaviour?
About 3:30pm I looked out the window and saw a fin in the water then three dolphins surfaced. Rob then ran up the coastline trying to get photos as they made their way past but they were too quick.
As the evening closes in the sunset is once again a beauty.
We continue North/North East tomorrow travel up the remainder of the Eyre Peninsula and then on to the Flinders Ranges. Next stop Hawker.
Physio my way 
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