Tag Archives: SA

Places we have been, South Australia, Victoria

Aussie Lap – Morgan SA to Port Campbell and the Great Ocean Road VIC

November 12, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Locations: Morgan, Bordertown, Port Nelson, Cape Northumberland, Port Campbell, Timboon

Dates: 6-11 November 2024

Regions: Riverland, Barossa and xx South Australia, Barwon South West, Melbourne and Gippsland Victoria

Temperatures: 6-34 degrees

Wednesday 6 November 2024

Morgan to Bordertown SA

Temperature: 12-34, clouds clearing, sunny & hot

Starting km’s 15060

Leaving Morgan today we cross the river and drive East up to Waikerie admiring the silo art, then onto Berri with all the vineyards and wine making facilities at Kingston on Murray before turning South towards Pinnaroo, passing through the Mallee and then onto Bordertown where we camp for the night at the recreational lake.

Dinner is a simple Salmon with ratatouille and pasta while we watch the results of the US election and Trumps victory.

367 km’s today.

Thursday 07 November 2024

Bordertown to Port McDonnell SA

Temperature: 8-22 Sunny but cool morning. Shower or two and wind later for Bordertown

Starting km’s 15427

A lovely cool morning with a breeze and a bright blue sky and it’s always lovely to wake to the sound of many birds enjoying the lake.

Today we are heading to the coast of Port McDonnell heading directly South all day. We pass through Naracoorte, home of the fossil caves and where the prehistoric Diprotodon, the largest prehistoric mammal was found.

We pass the sculpture and apparently the Diprotodoon looked like a very large 250kg wombat!

Everything is looking very green as we pass pastures and then vineyards as we move through the Coonawara Wine region.

By 11:00am showers start and we have paddock after paddock of vines lining both sides of the road. It’s cool, misty and green and we pass many estates including Wynn’s and Penfolds.

No wine tours today though as we continue South passing through Penola and Mt Gambier where we see a boat replica and pass the famous blue lake that we visited last year.

It’s then a short drive to Port McDonnell and then Cape Northumberland, our camp for tonight and the most Southerly tip of SA, all up just under 200 km’s today.

It’s windy when we arrive and make camp and the BOM reveals a marine wind warning and gusts of up to 65km overnight. It is such a beautiful spot we decide to stay and take what comes.

It’s surely an adventure but there’s not much sleep for me and at 4:30am there’s a storm to boot. The van rocks and the wind howls and I eventually drift off about 6am to snatch a wee bit of sleep!

Friday 08 November 2024

Port McDonnell to Portland

Temperature: 7–22 windy, clearing showers

Starting km’s: 15616

It’s a slow start after a nearly sleepless night but we are away by 9am.

Travelling into Victoria we visit Nelson, having a look at the river houses in the Glenelg River and then as we head to Portland on the Portland-Nelson Road we enter the green triangle – 6M hectares one of Australia’s largest forestry region.

125kms today.

We make camp at Portland RV park and just after we parked I saw a large Koala on the other side of a chain link fence near a pathway bordering the canal. At first it tried to come through the fence but realising it couldn’t and then seeing me it bolted for a tree on the pathway.

Not a Eucalyptus but a Sheoak. He/She looked very fit and healthy but I rang Victoria Wilderness Society to check for its welfare. Apparently Portland has a healthy population of Koala’s and they do roam so everything appeared to be ok. Possibly a male out looking for a mate.

What a cute koala and such a joy to see up close. He was in the tree curled up sleeping about 7 metres up til late afternoon then he was gone.

Saturday 9 November 2024

Portland

Temperature: 8-17 cool & cloudy

This morning Rob’s taking me on one of his mystery tours; he’s so good at these and I’m excited to see where we are going.

First stop was the Gannet Colony. Gannet’s are large seabirds; with a wingspan up to 2 metres, that have taken up the rocky outcrop of Lawrence Rocks at Point Danger just 6km from the city centre of Portland. Over 6000 pairs breed here, laying one egg only. The chick, on maturity will leave the colony to roam the seas for 3-5 years before returning to mate for life and breed. They are fascinating to watch as they skim and dive over the waves as they fish.

Next we head to West Portland, taking in the views before we visit the light house at Cape Nelson.

The next stop on the tour is Cape Bridgewater where the bay is the base of an old extinct volcano. It looks like a lovely spot for summer holidays.

We visit the blowhole and watch the frothy water on the coast.

BLOWHOLE

Next we visit the petrified forest which is only a short walk from the blowhole. It’s not really petrified but a geological phenomenon of sand and limestone that appears tree like.

As we head back into town we pass lots of lovely old cottages, always a favourite for me and one particularly charming example covered with roses takes my eye.

Sunday 10 November 2024

Portland to Port Campbell VIC

Starting km’s: 15843

Temperature: 8-18 partly cloudy

We head East today, passing through very cute Port Fairy. Rob deviates around the front for a look and it’s a very pretty town. I wish we were stopping but onwards through Warrnambool we go before turning right onto the Great Ocean Road.

The pine forest gives way to groves of Eucalyptus and large stands of Mediterranean Pines and then we get a flips of the Great Ocean at Peterborough.

We camp at Port Campbell, wash everything including us and are back in the car in an hour and a half and of sightseeing.

We turn back towards Peterborough and visit every lookout taking in Port Campbell , London Bridge, the Grotto and the Bay of Islands.

Along the way we met a couple on a trip to Tasmania for a vintage car rally towing an old Green Buick.

Our last stop is the Bay of Islands before picking up dinner tonight of Fish and Chips from Peterborough. Accompanied by Rob’s Vero cocktail which is a version of Appleton spritz we cheers to a great day.

BAY OF ISLANDS

Monday 11 November 2024

Twelve Apostles Marine Park

Temperature: 6-21, cloudy, clearing to sun

Today is a touristy day and our first stop is the Gibson Steps about 12 km’s from Port Campbell heading East.

Next stop is the Twelve Apostles heading back towards Port Campbell. A truly iconic Australian location.

Next stop is the Razorback and the Blades.

Next stop is Mutton Bird Island, home to the Mutton Bird aka the Short tailed Shearwater. These are extraordinary migratory birds that travel up to 15,000 km’s each year between Australia and the Northern Hemisphere for summer. Each year thousands of birds arrive at this island at the end of September, mate for life, clean out a burrow, feed, lay eggs in November which all hatch between 10-20 January, then the adults leave in early April. The chicks wait til end of April. George leaving for their first solo migration navigating on instinct.

Our final stop on the coast is Loch Ard Gorge where we read about the shipwreck of the same name. After a three month voyage she was lost trying to navigate this coastline. Only two survived to tell the tale.

We finish the day with a quick 17km trip inland to the famous Timboon Ice Creamery. My good friend Heather lives liquorice ice cream. I’m a fan of liquorice too so had to try it and it was amazingly good. Made with Junee Liquorice. yum.

The tough part was what to pair it with? Chocolate or Turkish Delight?

We’ve had a fabulous day!

We continue East tomorrow. I’m a bit behind with posts from WA and SA and will hopefully catch you up soon.

Love to all. Stay safe and be kind.

Love Maryann and Rob xx

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Penola SA to Grampians VIC

April 16, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Locations: Penola, Casterton, Hamilton, Grampians, Halls Gap

Regions: SouthEast SA, Great South Coast and Central Highlands VIC.

Dates: Thursday 11 April – Tuesday 16 April 2024

Temperatures: 11-19 degrees

Thursday 11 April, 2024. 11-19 degrees Robe SA

A busy morning, up early to bake my latest Sourdough loaf in the camp kitchen before we set off today.

We leave Robe and head North East and our first destination is Penola a country town rich in grazing history and home to Australia’s only Saint Mary MacKillop.

We enjoy a stroll around town taking in the history of the Cameron family before visiting the Mary McKillop interpretive centre.

The centre outlined the history of Scottish families who came to Australia and then settled in and around the Penola area, the Cameron family and Mary’s association with them before starting her first school, St Joseph’s devoted to educating the most disadvantaged children and later her canonisation as a saint. Thought provoking and rich in detail. A lovely place to visit.

We leave Penola and within 30km’s cross over the Victorian Border. No quarantine here at all but I was extra careful using up all our fruit and veg so there would be no issue.

We enter the Southern end of the Grampians before long and the hills begin rolling with pasture and cattle again before we pass on through Casterton and then on to Wannon Scenic Reserve, our stop for the night. About 212 kms today

Our camp is a lovely quiet spot with the falls a 5-10min walk away. It’s chilly and there’s a fire pit so after checking the safety signs, Rob sets a fire to start and we enjoy our dinner of Chicken and pancetta stew with rice sitting by a warm fire.

Friday 12 April 2024, Southern Grampians, 7-18 degrees

We head off mid morning into Hamilton to shop for groceries, stow them and then have a walk around the town. It’s a bustling place with a busy Main Street and lots of shops including Coles, Woollies and Aldi. We have plenty of time today as we are only travelling 80km, 20km of which we have already done.

As we walk we see a sign for walk in flu jabs at a pharmacy so after enquiring and booking we have a couple of hours up our sleeve. Rob decides to get a haircut then we visit the local gallery and the botanical gardens.

The gallery exhibition – Emerging from Darkness: Faith, Emotion and the Body of the Baroque brings together National and International works from the 17th century showcasing three female artists alongside Rubens, Boulogne and Manfredi to name a few. A stunning exhibition, well worth the visit.

Next we walk to and around the botanical gardens before heading back to the chemist for our jab.

The drive out of Hamilton takes us further into the Grampians and the peaks begin to line up in front of us.

Tonight’s camp is just as nice at Wannon Crossing with lovely mountain views in the late afternoon sunlight. Another camp fire tonight too.

Saturday 13 April, Mafeking 7-18 degrees, cool cloudy then sunny.

Hiked Mt Sturgeon, 4.7 km with 300 elevation. A great workout with spectacular 360 degree views of the Grampians National Park. The trail began from Mt Victoria Valley Road with a gradual ascent to the summit and back again, starting with a sandy track, then natural rock stairway gradually becoming steeper towards the top. Great hike, stunning views with a wallaby on the way down!

After a good hike you need a good meal so I prepped Osso Bucco for a slow cook over the campfire. Accompanied by Rossi & Pissi. (Rice and Peas) risotto.

Sunday 14 April, 2024, Temp 7-19, Lovely sunny day.

Made sourdough crumpets and started a sourdough loaf then cleaned the van while Rob did some maintenance on the van, checking tyres etc.

About 1pm set off for Halls Gap about 43km’s driving through the Grampians.

Went for a walk around town, visited the brewery then caught up with Nick and Dee, fellow Qld travellers for drinks in the late afternoon.

Monday 15 April 2024, 6-18 degrees foggy then sunny

Today we got the bikes out (love my new bike!) and head out on the bike trail to Lake Bellfield. Great ride and then walk over the dam wall.

Tuesday 16 April 2024, 6-19 degrees cloudy to start, then sunny, then cloudy.

Today we are hiking the pinnacles and Rob has already done a run and hike up from the caravan park to one of the ridge lines below the pinnacles.

By 9:00am the sun is out and the day looks set to be a beauty and we stop to admire the valley.

We wanted to do the Grand Canyon walk but it is closed at the stair end due to structural issues. Nevertheless we hike about 300m up the canyon for a closer look.

The walk is picturesque and the rock formations never cease to amaze.

We turn on to the pinnacles walk and it is immediately up with lots of stone steps.

In the distance atop a hill I spy a lone gum seemingly sprouting from rock and it reminds me of the Wanaka tree in N Z which springs from the water.

The climb meanders past Echo Cave and Rob goes in for a look. As the morning progresses we see more and more people. Taking the time to say hello means we meet people from all over Aus but also, France and Italy. Towards the top we go through another canyon and the trail gets narrow and steep.

Finally after a bit of a rock scramble at the top we arrive at the pinnacle.

The views are glorious, down to Halls Gap and back to Lake Bellfield that we visited yesterday.

The return walk is lively and again we pass lots of walkers, families, young and older walkers like us.

Tonight we are off to dinner to celebrate Rob’s birthday with fellow travellers and Qld’rs Dee and Nick who we keep running into. Such lovely people.

Love to all, stay safe, be kind and most importantly in these turbulent times love one another and be humble…

PS. Will catch up March travels soon xoxo

Aussie Lap, Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

April 12, 2024 Maryann McDougall 1 Comment

Locations: Orroroo, Jamestown, Peterborough, Clare

Regions: Adelaide City & Adelaide Hills; Barossa

Dates: Sunday 17 March – Thursday 21 March 2024

Temperatures: 9 – 32 Degrees

Sunday 17 March 2024, 15 – 32 degrees

Showers overnight and our first rain in months so it is a beautiful dawn at Walloway and the hills roll out all around us.

After breaking camp at RM Williams Way we head into Orroroo for a look.

We find our way to the Giant Red gum tree, said to be over 500 years old, nearly 11 metres circumference and over 60 metres high. What a beauty and home to 100’s of budgerigars.

Next we walk around Orroroo, exploring the charming Main Street then further afield to see some of the heritage trail buildings.

Next we head to Peterborough our camp for the night at the Showgrounds.

Once setup we walk into town. In the 20th century, this town was once the crossroads geographically and a rich hub for locomotives, Peterborough; originally Petersburg after the original land owner, now heroes “steam town” with a rich historical collection of all things steam train.

Monday 18 March, 15 – 31degrees sunny

Heading for the Clare Valley today we pass through Jamestown, the birthplace of RM Williams. Reginald Murray, one of Australia’s most iconic figures has a much bigger presence in the stockman’s hall of fame at Longreach I believe but it’s nice to see his hometown honouring their local lad. Interesting to read about his involvement in the Nepabunna settlement which we passed to and from Arkaroola just days before.

Continuing on we arrive in Clare and park in long bay parking. We have one more night off grid tonight and our camp is out at Blyth (10km South) before coming back into Clare to the caravan park tomorrow.

We take a walk around Clare, exploring part of the Riesling trail on foot and finding a nod to Monica McInerney (favourite author of “Hello from the Gillespie”) in the form of artwork along the way. of Irish descent, Monica grew up in Clare and her childhood home is just across the road from the artwork. How amazing to stumble across and one of the reasons I love travelling- you just never know what you will find.

Returning to the van we see a seat in front of a big gum tree and it turns out the tree was a resting spot for the Camel Funeral with the remains of Burke and Wills on the way from Innamincka to Melbourne in 1862 as well as early explorers from as early as 1839!

Onward to Blyth and a Golden Sunset.

Tuesday, 19 March 2024, 15-25 degrees and much cooler.

After starting a sourdough loaf and setting the van ready to move, we take a walk around Blyth. Quiet and full of beautiful old buildings and houses. It makes me think of the 1945 play, Blythe Spirit by Noel Coward.

We head into Clare, set down at the park and the rest of the day is taken up with washing and cleaning the van.

Wednesday, 20 March 2024, 9-20 degrees with our first chilly morning.

Morning hike – the Cascades Walk.

Short; 1.4km return, lovely walk with views of the gully below and out to Vincent Gulf through stands of Red Stringy Bark and Blue Gum Eucalyptus trees along the ridge line.

Referred to as islands from a conservation perspective, as the plains below were all but cleared of the same trees when the area was settled in the 1800’s.

After our hike in the hills we drive further down the valley to Seven Hills and the Skillogalee winery set in an historic cottage with views of vineyards and rolling hills. We enjoy a tasting while soaking up the Autumn sunshine. Our favourite, the sparkling Riesling.

On the way back we stop at Horrocks cottage, circa 1839 at Penwortham.

Thursday 21 March 2024, 9 – 26 degrees and sunny

We were planning to cycle some of the Riesling trail today but my bike is misbehaving with sticky brakes resulting in a spills and a skinned knee, so I decide to walk into town instead while Rob does a ride. Afterwards we head up to to do a ridgeline walk.

Great views but very windy!

After lunch we head out to on our favourite wineries – Taylor’s. We enjoy a fun filled tasting with lots of local stories from our host Robert!

A lovely few days in Clare for sure! Tomorrow we head to the Barossa Valley for the weekend.

Love to all, be kind, love one another and stay safe.

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Flinders Ranges Pt 2

April 11, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary

Region: Flinders Ranges

Dates: Tuesday 12 March – Saturday 16 March 2024

Temperatures: 22 – 46 Degrees, hot and sunny.

Tuesday 12th March 22-36 degrees

My sister Kay and her husband Jon met in Arkaroola in the 1970’s. Jon was a ranger and Kay worked at the Wilderness Sanctuary. They recently celebrated 50 years of marriage with family last December in WA and the family presented them with a gift voucher so that they could return to Arkaroola and reminisce those early years.

Rob and I planned to travel into the outback of SA so we had organised to meet them in Arkaroola for 4 days. From Copley it’s 125 km of gravel road for us with the van and Kay and Jon are driving from their home in Morgan, SA on the Murray River, about 7hours away.

My ear has improved a little so I’m hopeful the antibiotics have done their job. Day 5 and last day today.

The gravel road is wide and well cared for so the drive is relatively straight forward. The scenery is stunning, stark and raw. Beautiful in its extremes and it feels like a real privilege to be here. We see a lot wedge-tailed eagles; very hard to photograph, but always a pleasure to see them, in their element.

We arrive, check in and go set down. Once organised we drive back to reception and Kay and Jon have arrived. We organise to meet for dinner, while Jon catches up with the owner of the resort, a fellow he knows from his time here then we take swim to cool off, it’s a hot afternoon in the 40’s!

After dinner we go see the rock wallabies feeding.

Wednesday 13 March, 21 – 37 degrees

It’s a beautiful sunrise after a warm night and after breakfast we meet up with Jon and Kay. 4WDing is not my favourite thing but it is Jon’s so we decide to drive the Mt Jacob back track. Kay and I want to catch up do it the girls in the Isuzu with me driving 😬 and the boys in the Landrover with Jon in the lead.

I know the pictures won’t show the roughness, steep angles, height, ruts and rocks on the drive but I managed it all, didn’t lose my nerve and felt like I had conquered something at the end of the day!

After a hectic morning, we relax in the heat then cook a roast dinner to share with Kay and Jon.

Thursday 14 March, 23 – 38 degrees

After another warm night and we are out 4WDing again. Jon wants to tackle the Echo backtrack (classed as extreme) and after some discussion Rob and I agreed to give it a go. We don’t get far though before we decide to bail at a very steep climb with washouts and agree to go around the longer way and meet at Paralana Springs.

Kay tells me later we wouldn’t have liked it so I’m glad we opted out.

The drive we took with Rob driving was challenging enough via Arkaroola Creek and Claude’s pass. Stunningly beautiful but very rough and hot! 46 degrees near Paralana. We did 70km’s over about 4 hours so the going was very slow.

Friday 15 March, 24-38 degrees

Unfortunately my ear has stopped improving so I decide to drive back to Hawker to pick up the remaining antibiotics that were left out of my order, these were the duo forte part; stronger drugs of the doctors order so I’m hopeful this will knock the infection for good. Kay opts to come with me and so we leave Rob and Jon planning another drive.

The drive into Hawker is eventful with lots of animals. We see emus, goats, horses and even a Wedge tailed eagle lifting off from roadkill.

Best day ever from that perspective. It’s cool in Hawker too, 26 degrees which is welcome. After collecting the antibiotics, we have lunch at the Flinders providore before heading back, just under 600kms round trip!

Jon and Rob did a couple of drives, one out to an old copper mine and they had had a good day too.

These are some of the tracks we drove over the 3 days.

After dinner we spend some more time watching the beautiful rock wallabies.

Saturday 16 March, 22 – 37 degrees

Leaving Arkaroola today so we say goodbye to Kay and Jon and beautiful Arkaroola and drive back through Copley, stopping at Quandong Cafe as it’s open today and we share a huge pie!

On the way we have an encounter with a lizard whom we slowed for and he ended up under the car! Had to get the broom out to make him move but he was unscathed.

We also saw another Wedgie on the highway back towards Hawker, again on roadkill. We slow and I manage to get a few pictures as they liftoff and fly to a nearby tree

After a quick refuel it’s on to Hawker, then left on RM Williams way toward Peterborough and Clare.

My ear is still blocked and the headaches continue but it’s a cooler 37 degrees top today.

We stop at the RM Williams way camp 13km out from Ororroo. 460Km’s today.

It’s been a wonderfully hectic week. Always great to see my big sister ❤️ and the great big outback too.

Next onto Clare Valley and the Barossa. Stay safe, be kind and love one another xx

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Flinders Ranges SA Pt 1

March 8, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Cowell, Whyalla, Pt Augusta, Hawker, Wilpena Pound

Regions: Eyre Peninsula, Flinders Ranges & Outback

Dates: Wednesday 6 March – Monday 11 March 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 42 degrees, hot, sunny, some cloud.

Wednesday 6 March, 17 – 38 degrees

We are up early and I quickly add starter, salt and water to my flour prepped yesterday to start a loaf. I will do stretch and folds on the road today, always challenging and this is a high hydration loaf 85% so we will see how it goes.

We are away by 8:30am but stop in Tumby Bay to dump the chemical toilet and we run into the same historian we met at Elliston. Today he suggests we take the Igloo Road (gravel) off the highway, then left onto Beach Road (nice tarmac) into Cowell with great camping points along the coast. We take his advice and enjoy the nicest drive along the coast and into Cowell which is a lovely town full of historical buildings and silo art too. I put it on the list to revisit one day if possible.

We continue on past Whyalla and Port Augusta, only stopping to refuel and to pick up a few groceries. Rob picks up new thongs too, having lost his Archie’s changing shoes for a walk in Port Lincoln NP!

Leaving Port Augusta we turn left onto Flinders Way and almost immediately the range start to unfold in front of us on the right, reminding us both of an Albert Namatjira painting.

We stop in Quorn, a gorgeous little town 40km from Port Augusta. We need to vote in Qld local council elections by phone and we are not sure of service next week so today’s the day. It takes a while and a local shopkeeper approaches, thinking something is wrong as we pace about in the heat on our phones. Love country people and their hospitality.

We head on to Hawker, admiring the outback scenery as we go. We stop at the pub and sit in the cool for a while admiring all the local art, with a drink before heading out to our camp for the night, 10km out and when I check my dough the first rise is significantly higher than double so I think I’ve overdone it!

Our camp is by the highway with views East and West of the amazing Flinders. Ranges.

Thursday 7 March, 24 – 36 degrees

Today we heard to Wilpena Pound. It’s been a hot night and overnight I developed an ear ache. This is concerning as I have a history and can get very sick with ear infections, I had some drops on hand which I’ve used but being in the outback and heading further out leaves me uneasy.

We drive back to Hawker and then turn onto Flinders Ranges Way with about 60km to drive to Wilpena Pound.

The name comes from the Aboriginal word for cupped hands, Wilpena and Pound the English word for enclosure. With the Ranges almost fully enclosing an area.

We take it slow to stay in the cool and enjoy all the lookouts along the way.

We arrive, set up and I rest in the aircon of the van on a powered site. We had planned to do some hikes but with the heat (38 at 1:50pm) and my ear that’s probably not going to happen. Rob will likely do some early hikes though.

Later we go to the pool, then stay to experience the welcome to country ceremony from a local Adnyamathanha man which is fascinating and full of history.

Friday 8 March, 24 – 42 degrees

After a bad night with my ear it’s back to Hawker we go and most of the day is taken up with seeing a doctor then getting scripts filled. I missed the cut off but Rachel the pharmacist phoned the scripts through to Quorn for filling and they were due back at 3pm. Unfortunately only half of the antibiotics were supplied but I’m hopeful that will be enough. Back to Wilpena and to bed for me. Rob goes for a swim and a late afternoon walk.

Saturday 9 March 24 – 42 degrees

Rob suggests we drive the loop through two gorges, essentially cutting through Wilpena Pound to the Outback Highway then down the highway to the Moralana Way and back across to the Flinders Ranges Way, about 100km’s.

We set out about 10am.

We head up Flinders way toward Blinman then turn left towards Bunyeroo Gorge. The drive is a postcard at every turn. We see lots of Wedgies, three, then a group of ten or more, the most I’ve ever seen together but too high to photograph, the Cazneaux Tree and a hikers hut on the Heysen Trail.

The drive meanders through and across many creek beds and we wonder what it’s like when it rains!

Next up is Razorback lookout taking in St Mary’s Peak; the highest peak in the ranges. The scenery is amazing, raw and wild.

Continuing on we pass into Brachinya Gorge, and the road gets even tougher, through many creek beds and rock formations. At one point I spy what I think is a Yellow footed Rock Wallaby sheltering in the heat in a small cave.

Coming out of Brachinya, there is a very rough gravel road back the highway, then we turn left again and it’s 30km of highway past spectacular ranges before turning left again through the Moralana Way.

42 degrees at 1:50pm.

Once back at Wilpena I rest up for the afternoon and evening while Rob goes for a swim and I hope for a better night.

Sunday 10 March, 24 – 38 Degrees

A very quiet day. I catch up on washing and continue to take it easy, hoping the antibiotics will kick in. It’s unpleasant as my ear is blocked so I can’t hear, constant headache and discomfort. I’ve had worse though so it’s bearable.

Monday 11 March, 23 – 35 degrees

We leave Wilpena today, heading for Leigh Creek overnight before heading to Arkaroola on Tuesday. We decide to travel back to Hawker then up the highway, rather than out to Blinman and through the gorges on gravel. After our loop we are not sure how tough this would be so opt for the longer route on bitumen.

The heat is relentless and another rough night for me so it’s nice to be in the car…

We check out our overnight stay, just 5 kms south of Leigh Creek. Lovely view then head into Leigh Creek then Copley pub 5 kms on for dinner. The owner has two very spunky Staffy puppies which she brings out and the TBone and Fish n Chips were brilliant! Friendly and thought service.

Thank you Copley Pub!

Hopefully feeling better tomorrow.

Love to all.

Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Tumby Bay SA

March 7, 2024 Maryann McDougall 2 Comments

Location: Tumby Bay, Redcliffe

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Monday 4 – Wednesday 6 March 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 29 degrees

Monday 4 March, 15 – 26 degrees

Leaving Port Lincoln today, we have just a short drive up the East side of the Eyre Peninsula to Tumby Bay, about 50km.

We take the Redcliffe road off the Lincoln Highway about 20kms from Tumby Bay and 15km of gravel road to the Redcliffe camp, not too bad. Our campsite is right on the waters edge and we look forward to the waves sending us to sleep later.

On the way in we pass a charming old farmhouse set amidst dry fields. It reminds me of a similar house I saw in Scotland. So different but somehow similar? What do you think?

After setup we drive into Tumby Bay and explore. Tumby is a charming town with an excellent RV stop in town opposite the old jetty. The foreshore is lined with Pine Trees and the town has street art and silo art. The area has a marina and is known for fishing and beautiful beaches.

We visit the bakery which looks busy; always a good sign and I order two pies, plan for me, pepper steak for Rob.

The girl serving starts the order then turns to me and says the top on the plain pie has come off, I can have it for free or I can choose another. I say top off is ok, thank you. In all my years eating pies I’ve never heard of this and neither had Rob? The pie was nice, a little hard to eat as the top kept moving but that’s okay. 👍


Tuesday 5 March, 15 - 32 degrees sunny with showers

We decided to stay an extra day at Redcliffe camp. It’s so lovely to be right on the beach and the morning is sunny with just a breeze and we don’t have to be up at Wilpena Pound until Thursday so it will just mean a longer drive tomorrow.

Rob has an early swim and we otherwise have a quiet day so I feed my starter and spend the morning catching up on my blog, making muesli bars and chatting to my friend Liz in Brisbane for a while.

About lunchtime a shower comes across and we sit under our awning enjoying the sprinkle and watching how the sea changes colours.

Afterwards we walk around the beach to the point. We see sea snails, starfish, a dead baby Ray and lots of birds.

We also see two hooded plovers on the beach. These birds are protected in this area.

We also see Pacific Gulls on the rocks and on the vegetation. They seem to be eating red berries found along the coast here. I research but can find no reference for this behaviour?

About 3:30pm I looked out the window and saw a fin in the water then three dolphins surfaced. Rob then ran up the coastline trying to get photos as they made their way past but they were too quick.

As the evening closes in the sunset is once again a beauty.

We continue North/North East tomorrow travel up the remainder of the Eyre Peninsula and then on to the Flinders Ranges. Next stop Hawker.

Stay well, be safe, be kind. xx

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – Port Lincoln SA

March 5, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Port Lincoln

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Thursday 29 February – Sunday 4 March 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 32 degrees

Thursday, 29 February, 18 – 26 degrees.

We leave Coffin Bay around 10am after some cleaning and jobs this morning. I’ve given inside a good dust and also cleaned the outside of the windows. Rob has also been busy with some jobs so a productive morning.

Port Lincoln is only 50km from Coffin Bay so it’s a a quick trip today. The tourist holiday park is set on a hill overlooking the water so everyone has a lovely view. After setup we decide to walk into town for a few supplies following the Parnkalla Trail which runs across the foreshore of the park. It’s a lovely walk, around the point and past the huge Viterra Silos then through the Port to the town centre foreshore.

We wander along the foreshore and read all the tourist information about the tuna and fishing industry and see the statue of the racehorse Makybe Diva (owned by Tony Santi a local tuna fisherman). Interestingly the horse was named after 5 of his employees – Maureen, Kylie, Belinda, Diane and Vanessa by using the first two initials of each of their names!We find our way to Coles for a few groceries then back to the Park via a very big hill!

Friday 1 March, 15 – 25 degrees, partly cloudy.

The park has a camp kitchen so after coffee, I head up there with my dough, cast iron casserole dish, liner and oven pads to bake my loaf. I patiently waited 8 hours for this dough to double in size during its first proof and it’s had 36 hours for the cold bulk ferment so I’m hoping for a good loaf.

Afterwards, the day has cleared and we set out to explore Lincoln National Park. First stop though is L’Anse patisserie which does amazing croissants and pastries.

Pastry in hand we drive out to the National Park and visit Matthew Flinders monument. We walkout to the shore first of all and paddle around in the lovely clear water before Rob walks up to the Summit and the monument and reads about the search for water.

On the way back in we turn off to see Wanna lookout. It’s a 20km return journey on rough dirt road but Wow! The lookout is spectacular! Rob and I are both continually surprised by the sheer wonder of our coastline!

Friday evening g we enjoy happy hour with new friends Dee and Nic with whom we keep meeting at each stop since Venus Bay and another couple that Dee and Nic know, Debbie and Peter drop by for a while too.

Saturday 2 March, 19 – 26 degrees, partly cloudy

We have a quiet morning then head across Port Lincoln and out the other side to explore the lookout.

After visiting the lookout we return to the van to relax for a while before getting ready for dinner with new friends Dee and Nic, Debbie and Peter. Such lovely people.

The restaurant of choice is Del Giorno’s and a fun night of good food, wine, stories and great company we had!

Sunday 4 March, 13 – 24 Degrees

This morning we drove out to the National Park again to do 4km on the Investigator trail around surfleet cove headland.

We saw lots of birds, 28’s, Galah’s, Fairy Wren’s and a couple little dark green birds with big yellow eyes have a drink in a puddle on a rock.

After the walk we head out to stock up on groceries ahead of next week and our Flinders Ranges trip.

After groceries, we shower and head out to Teakle winery which we had spied from the lookout. We had tried the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc with dinner the previous evening, another reason for the visit.

The tasting is a mix of red and white wines, all very good and a couple exceptional.

Our host Matilda was very passionate and informative on all things wine too, having grown up the industry.

Port Lincoln and the Eyre Peninsula has been delightful. A wonderful area full of amazing landscapes, people and places to visit and enjoy.

We are off to Tumby Bay tomorrow.

Be well, be kind. Stay Safe xx

Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Coffin Bay

February 29, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Venus Bay, Elliston, Coffin Bay

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Monday 26 – Wednesday 28 February 2024

Temperatures: 17 – 36 Degrees

Monday 26 February: 17 – 28 Degrees

We set off from Venus Bay around 10am, planning to stop at Elliston to drop the van and do the art trail before continuing on to Coffin Bay. About 175kms in total today and still heading South East on the Eyre Peninsula.

We arrive Elliston which is about 60km from Venus and unhitch the van at the jetty. The art trail is about 20km of dirt road and with a lot of stops it’s just easier to leave the van.

The art trail is along a stunning coastal cliff drive and is well worth a visit with the sculptures set high on the cliffs and the majestic Australian Bight as a backdrop.

There is no blurb for the art pieces unfortunately although there may be online.? There seems to me to be a strong connection between the land and the sea in the art and the coastline is not to be missed!

After the art trail, we fuel up and continue our drive Coffin Bay and arrive close to 5pm. We set up and enjoy Prawns bought in Venus bay and salad for dinner.

Tuesday 27 February, 18 – 36 degrees

This morning we do the drive through the National Park. It’s an attractive journey through towering sand dunes of white sand dotted with mallee trees and the coastal shrubbery is full of colour, red, green, russet and lime.

We stop at Golden Island Lookout and watched two seals playing in the waves below for ages; one of them trying to steal catch from a person fishing down on the beach, then chasing a school of fish in the shallows. So cool and fun to watch.

The area is stunning with Golden Island glowing in the sunshine and Almonta Beach stretching up to the left with huge sands pillowing in the distance.

After spending time watching the seals we start to head back as we have an Oyster tour this afternoon. We stop at Point Avoid lookout. The coastal views is amazing again.

We also stop at Clayton’s lookout – view to the right of the lookout with lovely sandy beaches at the bottom of the cliffs.

The day is getting hotter and as 2:30 approaches the day is only getting warmer. At Oyster HQ we put on waders and immediately start to sweat. I’m glad we have both worn sun shirts as we will be in the sun during the tour.

We walk out and it’s immediately cooler in the Bay but the waders cling. It gets deeper and is an interesting walk to the pontoon. I give my phone to Rob as I’m more likely to fall over than he. 🤣😂🤣

We arrive at the Pontoon and our host from England “Rob” continued his presentation regaling us with history of the area, peppered with good humour while serving drinks.

We receive oysters and a lesson in shucking, complete with glove and sharp knife. It goes well and I manage to open my four oysters plus the extra two I earned from answering questions; pays to read brochures it turns out 😅 and they are beyond deliciousness! Best oysters ever, salty, briny and with that unmistakable metallic aftertaste! Amazing. The whole event is delightful, informative and entertaining.

We chat to Dee and Nic, a couple we met in Venus Bay and who kindly take a photo for us on the walk back in. After removing the waders we head into the restaurant for happy hour, joined by Dee and Nic.

While enjoying good company and a cool beverage we see two emus head down to the water and wade in for a dip. I’ve seen an emu wade previously at Streaky Bay but these two lay down and roll around!

They sit in the water, obviously enjoying it and cooling down for about 10 minutes!

What a sight!

The day is complete with a divine Seafood Platter that Rob had prearranged when he booked the tour. Starting with Oyster Shooters and Oyster pate, there isn’t a thing that is deep fried! The platter has Tuna sashimi, Kingfish sashimi, Vongole, Ceviche, Mussels, Prawns, Squid, Salmon, Scallops, Green Island Kawasaki, Pilchard, Garfish and a Morton Bay Bug!

What a way to end a fantastic day.

Wednesday 28 February, 15 – 27 degrees

It’s windy overnight and we wake to a cool start. First task today is to feed my starter as I’m making bread later. I set the discard aside for two quick crumpets and after breakfast and a tidy up we head out on the Oyster Walk. This walk goes all along the foreshore of coffin bay and extends on the approach to Coffin Bay out for about 20km including historical areas with the Oyster industry. Today however we take the walk starting from Oyster HQ; opposite the caravan park, and head out around the headland, past the mariner which is full of birds. We see ducks, galahs and lots of gulls of course as we walk out and the cool overcast day eventually morphs to sunshine on the return.

The rest of the morning is taken up with the first steps of bread making and I set a loaf for 1st proof before we head back out to the National Park for some Beach time at Almonta Beach. what a great place to relax.

Another busy lovely day. Early in the evening I do the last shape and fold on the dough and tuck it into its banneton for bulk overnight proofing in the fridge before settling in for the night.

Next stop – Port Lincoln tomorrow.

Stay safe and be kind. xx

Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

February 22, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Cactus Bay, Ceduna, Smoky Bay, Point Brown, Port Kenny, Venus Bay.

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: Thursday 22 February – Sunday 25 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 -31 Degrees

Thursday 22 February, 25 – 36 Degrees

So we left Cactus Bay around 10am. I decided I needed to wash my hair as it’s started to go yellow! Apparently grey hair picks up all sorts from the atmosphere, water and the sun, and as I only wash my hair every 7-10 days (I’ve always done this) and it’s getting longer, all of these elements seem to be affecting my hair. I have this toning shampoo which I use irregularly so obviously I need to use it more often.

I head for the cold shower and wash it. Bearing in mind this shower is bore water, very salty and in order to preserve water I’m not conditioning but at least it feels clean and seems to be less yellow.

It’s a female thing, what can I say!

As we are leaving camp, Chris, who holds the maintenance lease pops by and we get to say goodbye to him and the dogs, Kelly who rides on the roof and Catup who enjoyed some steak fat the other evening.

Rob also gets a new blue Cactus T Shirt.

On the way back to Penong I catch the awesome sand dunes in the morning light and we pass the pink lake (still not very pink) but very salty.

We continue back to Penong, on the very rough dirt road, then turn right on the Eyre highway towards Ceduna. We pass through border quarantine, no problem then visit a dump point and refuel. We head to the Foodland and pick up a few supplies, fresh fruit, yogurt, crackers and soda water, then hit the road. Next stop Smoky Bay.

Smoky Bay is small with lots of fresh oysters outlets and a caravan park right on the foreshore, one for another time perhaps. Rob and I are off grid and hoping to do 10 days in preparation for the Flinders Ranges. Day 7 today. We purchase some fresh oysters, 12 for $10 and head off. Our camp is at Browns Point about 8km out of town, then 20km down a very rough dirt road. Corrugates, ruts and rocks, worst road by far!

Very Rough! No kidding this is one of the roughest roads I’ve ever traveled and a true test for our Trax S3 off road Van. When we arrive, after much jolting, I’m very surprised to see that the only things that have moved in the van are the T towel and the bin! Amazing!

We set down then head out for a walk to explore the foreshore. It’s quite windy and there are loads of birds on the foreshore and up to and around the point.

I spy a stingray in the shallows and we watch them flit about.

So many birds… and with the tide out it seems a haven.

Back at the van we enjoy our Oysters then Chicken and Roast Beetroot Salad, then sundown.

Friday, 23 February, 12- 22, Sunny, windy

I have a dough to bake so that’s my first task today. It’s been in the fridge since Thursday evening on a bulk prove.

Rob has a nice hike planned so after baking and tidying the van we set off towards the point and some rock pools he’s read about.

The coastline is wild and beautiful and the tide has just turned and is coming in. We follow the coastline around and towards the point, eventually finding the rock pools.

On the way back Rob steps on a baby brown we think. I’m not sure who got the bigger fright!

That evening the wind ratchets up and we are rocked to sleep. About 10:30 I’m woken by noise and headlights. Just another traveller in a small van, in late but I can’t imagine driving that rough road in the dark! Next day they left early without saying hello.

Saturday 24 February, 18 – 37 degrees

We pack up and set off around 9:30, the road has not improved in the two days and we take it very slowly back to the highway, 25kms in 1:45hrs I reckon.

At Penong we turn East and travel on past Streaky Bay, next stop Murphy’s haystacks which we missed, when exploring this area last August.

Only 3 kms off the Flinders highway on the inland side. Known as Inselbergs (a hill that looks like a rocky island rising sharply from the sea), they are the result of erosion and harrowing (a technique used to cultivate the land) and are located on Murphy’s property. It’s a lovely walk and a great opportunity to stretch the legs.

We pass on to and then through Port Kenny and on to Venus Bay. On the way we see several emu’s including two crossing the road in front of us, two snakes, also on the road and a lizard.

At Venus we set up and find out there is a comedy night – Fairy Floss & Chaos with food trucks at Port Kenny so we organise a seat. We share the courtesy bus with Chris and Rea of 4WDIVE safaris (tube) and enjoy a fun night with hilarious standup comedians. Marc Ryan the beautiful bogan, El Jaguar, Joshua Warrior and Dom Robinson. Great night! Thank you Port Kenny Hotel.

We are home by 10pm and enjoy the bright new moon over the bay before turning in.

Sunday 25 February, 15 – 25 degrees

Sunday morning we decide to hike the South-head trail which runs along the foreshore of Venus bay. It a lovely hike, about 6km with stunning cliff and ocean views along with crumbling cliff edges and loads of bird life.

Afterwards we stop at the Cafe opposite the jetty to get beer and fish and chips for a late lunch! A great weekend at Venus Bay!

Tomorrow we continue South towards Coffin Bay and Port Lincoln.

Love to all, stay safe and be kind. x

Rob’s addition – as the Dalai Lama says

“Be kind whenever possible, it is always possible.”

Places we have been

Aussie Lap – SA, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight

February 19, 2024 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Locations: Nullarbor, Cliffs of Bight, Penong, Point Sinclair

Regions: Alinytjara-Wilurara

Dates: Sunday 18 – Thursday 22 February 2024

Temperatures: 15 – 31 degrees, fog and sun

Monday 19 February, 15 – 29 degrees.

The night was cool and Rob and I are grappling with the time change. Yesterday the time had kept switching back and forth; four times, after we left Eucla. Starting at 11:50am WA time which changed to 2:20pm SA time then back again a short time later and then switching back and forth several times.

We arrived at the Bunda Cliff Camp 2 at 3:00pm WA or was it 5:30pm SA time? We decided to stick with WA time for the rest of the day and then SA time from tomorrow.

The night skies are amazing but I can’t get good photos with the iPhone… need to work on this!

Monday morning we wake at 3:30am WA time, 6:00am SA time just as the sky lightens. There has been a very heavy dew overnight and it’s a cool 15 degrees.

The sunrise is spectacularly beautiful.

We anticipate a quiet day with a long walk but around 9:30 a fog rolls in… and continues until about 4:30pm and then starts to lift a little. We set up the Starlink and Rob relaxes with a movie – Oppenheimer and I catch up the blog and make some date scones. Yum!

We head out for a long walk about 4:30pm but the mist continues, rolling in as it gets later in the day.

Tuesday 20 Feb, 18-31 degrees

Tuesday dawned, still misty on the cliffs so we decided to cut our time here and move on. This is one of the main benefits of free camping – flexibility.

A couple we met from Mandurah, WA the previous day on the cliffs (sorry can’t recall their names!) recommended Cactus Bay, 270kms East and 20km South of Penong which is about 60km West of Ceduna on the WA/SA border so we thought we would check it out.

The journey is uneventful (always what we hope for 😀) with a few wide loads on trucks to navigate; 4.5metres wide the largest, and again the UHF is a must when travelling these roads, even if you aren’t towing.

Crossing the Nullarbor the only animal we see is a dingo, very casually crossing the road as we approach Nullarbor Roadhouse but I miss getting a photo. We stop for a coffee and I find a very similar hat to the one Rob lost last week as a gift for him.

Love you handsome. ❤️

A STATION AT BOOKABIE, EASTERN END OF NULLARBOR

We stop at Penong for milk and greens to finish a roast beetroot and radish salad I have planned to go with steak for dinner and then turn South towards the Coast.

I’ve heard good things about this camp so I’m excited. The road out is tough with lots of corrugated ruts and holes so it’s a slow drive which is ok as there is lots to see. The pink lake at Point Sinclair may be pink in full sun, so maybe tomorrow, lake Mac Donnell stretches out on the left and towering sand dunes are both left and right.

This is a private camp and first in, best served to find a camp spot. It looks reasonably full so we feel fortunate to find a nice, reasonably flat spot with a flushing toilet nearby! The facilities are amazing including many toilets, cold showers and a camp kitchen at a very reasonable day rate per person. Happy Days!

The surfers beach is a short walk over the dunes and the point is just up the road. After setup we take a walk to explore the area.

Wednesday 21 Feb, 17 – 27 degrees

I start a sourdough for a loaf around 8:00am and after the folds set it aside for the 1st proof and Rob and set out for a cross country hike and a swim at Point Le Hunt.

We start the walk on Cactus Beach and then head for the rough coastal path which follows the point around to the left.

We follow the edge as long as possible but eventually need to go up and along the coastline before we come to a huge expanse of granite.

We continue to follow the Granite around the coastline until we can go no further due to the contour then head up and across the point til we find 4WD tracks which we follow, backtracking a few times until we reach the other side and Point Le Hunte.

We head down and explore the jetty and read about the shipwreck and the jetty and a the tragic loss of a young boy to a shark attack in 1975 before we take a dip in the shark protected netted area.

After our swim we walk back to camp along the dirt road admiring the huge sand dunes on either side of the point. We relax and once my bread has finished its 1st proof, I prepare for the bulk overnight proving in the fridge. Dinner is grilled fish and bean ragu.

This is such a lovely spot to relax and a credit to the original owner with such foresight to infrastructure in a remote outback area. Thank you. 🙏🏻

Our day is complete with another beautiful sunset. Complete with two surfers enjoying their last waves of the day.

Thursday 22 Feb, 16 – 28 degrees

We depart today, next stop Smoky Bay.

Love to all, stay safe, take care and be kind. xx

Australia, Places we have been, South Australia

Aussie Lap – Streaky Bay

August 27, 2023 Maryann McDougall Leave a comment

Location: Streaky Bay SA

Region: Eyre Peninsula

Dates: 10 August – 13 August

Temperature: 4 – 18 Degrees

We left Minnipa with only a short drive today to Streaky Bay of roughly 100km’s from bush to coast!We decided to camp at the Islands RV camp which was recommended by a fellow camps at Tcharkuldu Rocks and a powered site will provide an opportunity to catch up with weekly washing. Our van has a washer and we can comfortably wash clothes while off grid and we could do sheets and towels but much easier in a big washer!

The Islands is 7km from Streaky Bay and on the way in we spy a bike path so as soon as we park and unhitch we grab the bikes and head for town. The ride is reasonably flat with enough hills to please Rob and make me wish I was fitter! 😂

After about 40minutes ride we arrive in town, explore the picturesque jetty, then visit the pub to book a bus and dinner for the Matilda’s Qtr final on Saturday. We enjoy a beer then ride back to camp to take in the sunset then fire up the Ziggy for roast pork dinner.

On Friday after getting the washing done we set out to explore the first of two loop drives around Streaky Bay. The first is the Cape Bauer loop. We took sandwiches and enjoyed them with tea at the blowhole and whistling rock. We waited til high tide as we hoped for a real blow but other visitors mentioned you need an onshore wind for it to pump. There’s plenty of noise though and it feels like the rocky shore beneath you is breathing, especially at Whistling Rocks!

On Saturday after a bacon and egg role at the local Drift Streaky Bay Cafe (very nice), we drive to Point Labett. As we drive past Baird Bay it appears streaky with lines of sea foam on the caps of the waves and I wonder if that’s where the name came from? The bay appears shallow and the edges had pillows of pure white foam. We stopped to watch a big flock of pelicans and other seabirds and admire the view of the wide bay.

On to the Seal Colony (51km’s from Streaky Bay), where we spied 30 seals including pups lazily enjoying the sunshine. The colony is very protected as you can only view from the platform high above which is good as it’s evident from the sign that the Australian Sealion is an endangered species. We stay quite a while but it’s cool, 18 degrees but with the breeze from the viewing platform above felt much cooler.

The only active seal!

On the way back we drive the Westall Way Loop coming across a very cranky blue tongue lizard on the wayand taking in the amazing white sand dunes at Sceale Bay, rugged Perlubie Beach, and some early wildflowers at Westall.

The area is remote and both loops were on unsealed roads which were very good and easy to drive on. The scenery in this area is so beautiful and we would love to visit again in the summer months to enjoy the beaches. We return to camp to get ready for our dinner in town and the Matilda’s game and to pack, for tomorrow we head out onto the Nullabor and five days at least of free camps.

Physio my way

Tag Archives: SA

Aussie Lap – Morgan SA to Port Campbell and the Great Ocean Road VIC

Aussie Lap – Penola SA to Grampians VIC

Aussie Lap – Clare Valley SA

Aussie Lap – Flinders Ranges Pt 2

Aussie Lap – Flinders Ranges SA Pt 1

Aussie Lap – Tumby Bay SA

Aussie Lap – Port Lincoln SA

Aussie Lap – Coffin Bay

Aussie Lap – Eyre Peninsula SA

Aussie Lap – SA, Nullabor, Cliffs of Bight

Aussie Lap – Streaky Bay

Life Moves!